home Sewerage

Arrangement of drainage pits. Drain pit: the device and the principle of operation. How to make a brick sewer

Cesspool or waste pit is an invariable attribute of a summer house or a private house, which does not have a centralized sewage system. Correctly equipped cesspool gives an opportunity for waste processing, and liquid ingredients soak into the soil without causing harm to it.

The demand for this building is due to the fact that its construction does not require specific knowledge and skills. Depending on the model of construction, one person with a similar job can be dealt with within 2-6 days without much effort.

Of course, there are some problems with subsequent exploitation the drainage pit. It is necessary to decide how to pump the waste from the pit, who to attract to carry out such a mission. Much means and volume of the constructed drainage pit it depends on it how often, it will be necessary to pump out sewage from it.

In rural homes or in cottages, many use the simplest design of a drainage pit. Just buried in the soil old tanks or barrels. With a similar construction collection of sewageand their filtration is possible provided that their number per day will be no more than 1 m³. The sanitary inspection negatively relates to such drainage systems, since they poison the environment and harm the environment.

The most simple cesspool you can build on suburban area for a short time. On the drain pipe, the waste is straight are sent to the tank, the bottom of which is covered with a layer of gravel or pebbles. For the release of methane produced during processing of waste, put a gas pipe on the lid of the tank.

Such a system is not applicable in homes for permanent residence, because in them approximate water consumption per day per average family is more than 1 cubic meter. m. They need a way to remove waste and fecal matter into the ground and their subsequent filtration.Such a system has become widespread among those living in cottages and country houses and cottages.

Its construction does not involve any difficulties, but it is worth taking into account some of the nuances:

The walls of the pit must be strengthened, since the water entering it will destroy the building. To prevent this, put a tank or container, the wall is laid out of a brick or installed concrete rings.
Average, the volume of the discharge pit is calculated based on approximately 3 m³ per day or calculate that for each family member per day, water consumption does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.
Mandatory installation of the ventilation system in the pit, to speed up the processing of waste.

When constructing a cesspool of this design, consider that it almost does not require cleaning. In such a system, several chambers for sewage treatment, first they are poured into the first pit, where they are collected. Then when they get together overflow lintel, The impurities will go to the second chamber and the liquid waste will absorb the soil. Solid waste in the first pit will be recycled bacteria for cesspools and go to fertilizer.

Types of cesspools

By the way of manufacturing, the pits are made by categories:

Cumulative from monolithic concrete.
With brick walls.
With receiving capacity.
Temporary, excavated in the ground.
With wooden formwork.
Without a bottom with the release of waste liquid waste into the ground.

According to the regulations SNiP , which determine location of drainage pitson the territory of the household, you must adhere to the following rules:

Residential houses and outbuildings should be located about 20 meters from the drain pits.
The distance from the cesspool to the nearest fence should be at least 1 meter.
The distance to the nearest natural source of water (well or spring) from the drainage pit without a bottom should be within 30 meters.

Selection of material for construction

To make a reservoir for a cesspit, the following building materials are used:

ceramic or ordinary brick;
material from plastic in the form of containers, barrels;
w / w ring.

For the tank, you can use a variety of useless containers: the body from the "styralka" barrels without bottom or tires from the wheels of the machine are stacked on top of each other.

Usually, the form of the cesspool depends on the container used. But the most suitable form is cylindrical, which has highest strength and allows for an even distribution of loads on the walls of the vessel. Capacities of the cubic form are much inferior to cylindrical in strength due to uneven distribution on the walls of loads.

Brick cesspool

To make a cesspit, ceramic bricks are the most suitable. He has much more long term service,than the usual, and he is not so afraid of dampness. First of all, it is necessary to excavate pits according to previously made dimensions.

At the bottom of the pit can be built small foundation,made of bricks or stones. The walls of the pit are laid out in half a brick to save material, between the ends of bricks it is desirable to leave small cracks, for filtration and discharge into the ground of sewage.

After laying several rows of bricks, it is necessary to carry out drainage padding, It consists of gravel and pebbles between the walls of the pit and brickwork.

Brick walls are removed to the height below ground level approximately 60 cm, at this height made well, it is necessary to cover with a strong cover from any improvised material (metal sheet, reinforced concrete plate).

In the lid it is necessary to provide hOSE HOSE a sewing machine, for a hole you need to make a reliable cover. From above on the cover you can pour the remaining earth from the excavations and plant a flower bed on it.

Pit of concrete rings

Cesspool in a country house or the dacha can be made from ready reinforced concrete rings . Construction of a drainage pit from reinforced concrete rings is made with the use of special equipment, so without the involvement of experts you can not cope in the construction of this design.

The sequence of works is as follows:

Still often at construction of cesspools apply old tiresfrom vehicles. Most suitable for this purpose are tires from heavy vehicles or tractors.

Sidewall tires are cut with the use of a grinder or electric jigsaw, do not forget to cut pipe inlet for draining. After preparation, the rings from the tires are installed in the pit one on top of the other, and the bottom is filled with drainage from gravel and gravel.

Absence in holiday villages centralized systems sanitation is not the reason to deny yourself a normal level of comfort. Compensate for the inconvenience can be by installing a local sewer. If it is a question of settling a dacha, then such a simple option as a drainage pit by one's own hands is the most rational. In order to implementditch pit arrangement, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the reservoir, choose the location of its location and determine the material that the pit will be laid out for.

The device of the drainage pit is the simplest version local sewage systems. However, it is suitable only if the volume of effluents is relatively small. That is why it is often chosen for cottages, which are used for periodic holidays or for summer living.

Preparatory work

At the stage of preparation for installation, it is necessary to determine the size of the future reservoir, choose the right site for its construction, and decide what materials will be used to construct the tank walls.

Determined with dimensions

In order to properly choose the size of the drainage pit, the following factors should be taken into account:

The volume of waste water. This indicator depends on how often it is planned to use the house, how many people will be in it, and also on the level of the equipment of the house with plumbing devices.

Advice! It is clear that the less plumbing in the house, the smaller the volume of drains is formed. For example, if there are only showers in the house, then the volume of sewage will be less than in the cottage equipped bathroom.

Availability of sewerage services. Before making a decision to build, you need to find out how much a one-time call of a sewage disposal plant is and how much equipment can be pumped out at a time. It is advisable to make the volume of the pit approximately equal to the volume of the tank installed on the machine.

We choose the location of the discharge pit

After the necessary volume of the pit is determined, it is necessary to do the selection of the place where the excavation digger will be conducted. When selecting, you need to take into account the following:

Geological characteristics of the site, namely, the level at which the soil water lies. You can build a pit only if the UGW is low, since the pit itself is made at least two meters deep.

Advice! If the UGW on the site is high, then it is not advisable to build an ordinary drain pit. In this case, it is better to purchase a ready-made sealed plastic container and build a septic tank.

The pit must be away from home, minimum distance - 5 meters.
When choosing a location, you need to take into account the location of the water intake. The distance between the pit and the well should be at least 30 meters for clay soils, and at least 50 for sandy soils.
If the site has a complex terrain, the pit should be located in the lowland.
When choosing a place, one should not forget about the availability of free access to the pit, otherwise serious problems will arise with its cleaning.

Choice of materials

At the last stage of preparation should determine what to impose a drain hole? Most often, brick is used for this purpose, but other options are possible. For example, an alternative option may be a drainage pit from a cinder block or a pit from a slate.

In addition, for the construction of a storage tank is often used well rings from reinforced concrete. It is also possible to build a monolithic tank or install a finished plastic container.

Stages of installation

The construction of the waste pit passes in several stages.

Earthwork and foundation pit preparation

The first stage of the work is the preparation of the excavation. Here are some useful recommendations for earthworks:

It is much quicker and easier to hold the pit of the excavation with the help of digging equipment. But if the site is already planted with plants and landscaped, then there will be nowhere to pass the excavator. In this case, you have to dig the pits manually.
The dimensions of the pit are determined by the necessary reservoir, but the depth of the excavation should be made taking into account the construction of the drainage cushion.

The design of the drainage cushion depends on what type of pit is supposed to be built. If it is a leaky structure, a layer of sand 15 cm high is poured onto the bottom of the tank and is well rammed. Then, rubble is poured over the sand, the height of the layer is not less than 50 cm. Such a high cushion is necessary to provide better filtration and prevent rapid siltation.
When building a sealed pit, the layer of crushed stone can be 10-15 cm high. On top of the rubble, you should lay a ready-made slab of reinforced concrete or make a screed directly on the bottom of the excavation.

Execution of wall masonry

One of the most popular construction options is a brick drainage pit.

Advice! The contents of the drainage pit is an aggressive environment, which quickly destroys the silicate and porous bricks. To make the construction durable, you should use clay or red brick.

In order to improve the filtering capacity of the reservoir, when laying walls, it is necessary to provide for the construction of holes, that is, the brick is laid in staggered order.

Before you overlay the drain pit with a brick, you should determine its shape. Many beginners in the construction industry believe that the best option will become a reservoir in the form of a cube. In fact, a more solid and stable figure is the cylinder. When constructing a cylindrical tank, the risk of destruction of the walls is reduced.

The recommended wall thickness is one brick. The tank is laid out in a circle. In order for the red brick drain pits to filter the water better, fill the gap between the brickwork wall and the wall of the tank with rubble, broken brick or similar construction debris.

When you have finished the laying, you should perform the overlap of the pit. To do this, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing mesh or metal corners on top and perform concreting or lay the metal sheets. It is necessary to leave the inspection hatch, so that the contents of the pit can be pumped out.

How can I reduce the frequency of a call to a sanitizer?

In order to reduce the likelihood of soil contamination and increase the periods between cleanings, it is worthwhile to build a structure such as a drain pit with overflow. In this case, the pit is divided into two communicating reservoirs.

The first (hermetic) will receive sewage from the house. Here they are defended, and the heavy fractions settle down, and the clarified water remains at the top. In the upper part of the reservoir, there are "windows" for overflowing liquid into the second part of the pit. Here in the walls are made holes through which the water will be gradually filtered into the ground.

This version of the drainage pit is safer for the ecology of the site. Yes, and it will have to be cleaned less often, since only the first tank, in which solid waste accumulates, will have to be cleaned.

Alternative construction option

If there is no time and the desire to build tanks of brick or reinforced concrete, then you can prefer alternative option. For example, a waste pit from a barrel can be built. To build the structure you need a barrel made of plastic or metal with a volume of two hundred liters.

In order to ensure the possibility of filtration, holes are made in the walls of the barrel, placing them in a staggered order. Also, a nozzle is inserted into the barrel to which a drain pipe will be connected.

To ensure a free outlet of water and to retain solid particles, the barrel should be wrapped with geotextile. The prepared tank is installed in the prepared pit, and the space between the barrel and the walls of the pit is filled with crushed stone.

Cleaning

Any downpipe should be cleaned periodically. For this purpose, a sewage special machinery is used - a machine on which a powerful pump is installed. But it is not always possible to use the services of sewers. We'll figure out how to clean the drainage pit on its own.

If the drainage pit in the dacha is full, then the pump will help clean it. To perform this unpleasant, but the right job a fecal pump is needed. Use normal drainage pump to clean the drainage pits can not, because it immediately zabetsya.

Using a fecal pump, it is not difficult to clean the pit. Difficulties arise with the utilization of the recovered substance. It can not be poured onto the ground or into water bodies, it is necessary to utilize the liquid at the treatment plants.

Advice! In order to pump out the filtering pit more rarely, it is recommended to use special cleaning biologics that promote the decomposition of solid biowaste.

So, the drainage pit can be built by own hands in different variants. It can be a two-chamber building, and the simplest construction of a barrel. Everything depends only on the needs of the owners and their desire.

Among the sewerage systems, which are not difficult to do on their own, still remains a drain hole made of bricks. Of course, to make such a structure of other materials, for example, from concrete rings, can be simpler and faster. But the brick sewers have their own advantages.

A drained or cesspool is one of the oldest sewerage options on earth. It can be built even without any experience of construction work. Moreover, often such a device is created on the site at the very beginning of construction work to provide the builders with a minimal set of amenities.

Technically, the discharge pit is the simplest septic tank or accumulator of human waste. To this tank, located under the ground, a sewage pipe leading from the house is fed. To her also piped separately standing toilet, bath and other premises available on the site.

One common cesspool on the site is not the only way to organize such a system. If desired, you can make a separate small capacity for each room. Such a solution can be convenient, for example, if the bath is located at a considerable distance from other buildings.

Waste is gradually accumulated and partially disposed of, depending on the type of structure. As the pit is filled with effluent, it must be cleaned to prevent overfilling of the structure. Modern means make it possible to produce waste with a sufficiently high degree of efficiency.

Varieties of waste pits

From a brick it is possible to build a cesspool of any type:

sealed;
with permeable walls;
without a bottom;
divided into several sections.

Each structure has certain characteristics. For example, a sealed pit is used in areas with a high level of groundwater. Such a design prevents the possibility of contamination of the environment by sewage.

Pervious drainage pits designed for processing and disposal of gray sewage are arranged with a meter sand and gravel filter in the bottom area. With insufficient throughput of the underlying rocks, they are equipped with small openings in the walls through which the liquid part of the waste is disposed of.

If the capacity of the drain pit is divided by brick walls and inserted into them overflow tubes, you will get a practically self-made septic tank

In the so-called pits without a bottom, the bottom is not concreted. The walls of such structures are erected on a concrete foundation with a lumen, into which a sand and gravel filter is laid directly onto the ground. Liquid effluents will slowly seep through this natural filter, and then enter the underlying subterranean strata, where they are finally cleaned.

The use of bricks makes it possible to create both a sealed drain pit and its permeable version. Most often such constructions are made with a rectangular base, this is the simplest version

A large pit can be divided into two or three sections by partitions, which are connected by overflows. Such a device, similar to a sewage septic tank, allows many times to separate the bulk of solid and liquid wastes and increase the degree of their processing with the help of bacteria.

Features of brick sewerage

The use of bricks for the construction of the walls of the cesspool has several advantages. This material perfectly retains impurities and is longevous. With the help of brickwork, you can create a structure of any size and configuration.

When using concrete rings, you have to adjust to their typical sizes. Pouring monolithic concrete - this is no less labor-intensive process than the laying of bricks. It is not necessary to use a high-quality material for decontamination, as well as bricks that have already been used previously.

The brick is suitable for creating drain pits and other structures of arbitrary configuration. In addition, such devices can be installed on a site with a high level of groundwater

Masonry works require certain skills, this is a real building art. It is better to master such operations on the construction of sewage facilities, since all the flaws will be hidden in the future under the ground. And yet you should not do the clutch very casually. Uneven brick wall may collapse in time.

A brick borer has one useful property - it is stable practically at any level of groundwater, well resists the swelling of the soil during freezing in winter. Such a drainage pit can be arranged both on light sandy soils and on heavy clayey soils.

How to make a brick sewer

Before you begin to perform the work, you need to determine the size of the future cesspool, as well as find a building appropriate place. The simplest version of the calculation is based on the average norm. The number of people permanently living in the house is multiplied by a rate of 0.5 cubic meters. meters.

After that it is necessary to calculate the parameters of the pit, depending on its configuration. The capacity is usually made in the form of a cube or cylinder. The first option is preferable, since it is easier to lay a container with straight walls with a brick.

The depth of the pit should not be more than three meters, but practice shows that it is less than two meters or less to service a sewage system. The volume of the pit should now be divided by the chosen height. The figure will be the base area. It remains to choose the length and width for a container with a rectangular base. If a decision is made to dig a cylindrical pit, you will have to use the formula of the area of the circle:

The resulting area should be divided by 3.14, i.е. on the number "pi". From the result, which is a square of the radius of the circle, you need to extract the root, having obtained the proper radius of the base of this cylinder.

Before performing the markup, all parameters must be increased by the size of the brickwork and the concrete foundation. This role is usually performed by a concrete slab 30-40 cm thick. Approximately the same dimensions should have a concrete screed. The thickness of the brickwork for sewerage facilities should be 25 cm on the outer contour, and for internal walls it is sufficient 12-13 cm.

When choosing the parameters of the tank, it should be remembered that its filling by more than two-thirds is undesirable, so the depth of the excavation under the pit should be increased to the required size. Picking up a place for the construction, it is necessary to take into account a number health standards. For example, the distance from the storage tank to the dwelling house must be at least five meters, to the fence - at least two meters, to the source drinking water - not less than 25 meters, etc.

In addition, in areas with a heterogeneous relief, the sewerage facilities should be located lower than the source of water. Finally, it is necessary to provide an opportunity for an access to the sewage disposal equipment. The machine need not be in the immediate vicinity of the cesspool, but the distance between them should not exceed a limit of four meters.

Excavation works

After the markup is completed, you can start digging the foundation pit. The easiest way to order excavator services, but if you need a small capacity and there is a desire to save money, you can handle it manually. The technology of the work is very simple: the ground is digged with a bayonet shovel, and as the trench is deepened, it is chosen with the help of a bucket on a rope. A ladder will be useful to get out of the pit, as well as the usual building level, in order to control the quality of work.

If there is a will or need, the pit for the drainage pit can be made manually using a shovel and a bucket on a rope

The walls of the pit are usually made upright, but the bottom is given a slight slope so that the contents of the container accumulate in the corner above which the maintenance hatch will be located. In the future, this will facilitate the pumping of waste from the tank. On light soils, walls may need protection from shedding, for example, using temporary wooden structures.

Installation of concrete base

If the bottom of the pit is supposed to be sealed, then either a concrete slab should be put down or concrete work should be done. In the first case, everything is simple: choose iron concrete structure suitable sizes and install it at the bottom. If the decision is made to concrete the bottom, then first lay a sand cushion about 15 cm thick. The sand should be leveled and tamped, following the previously made slope.

Then a reinforcing mesh is put on the bottom and a cement-sand screed is poured. After this, you must wait until the concrete foundation is cold. For its complete drying, it takes about four weeks, but during the construction of the cesspool, the work is usually continued already seven days after the foundation is filled.

If it is supposed to construct a cesspool without a bottom, it is necessary to fill the concrete screed with only the space above which the walls will be erected. The center is left open ground, which is subsequently laid sand-gravel filter. To properly perform the pouring of concrete base in this case, you will need to build a wooden formwork.

Execution of brick masonry

cement grade M400 - 1 part;
building sand - 3 parts;
water - 0.8 parts;
slaked lime or clay - 0.5 parts.

Sand and cement must be sifted so that there are no solid inclusions, this will make the solution homogeneous and bring it to the consistency of liquid sour cream. First, a clay castle is made on the base, the first row of bricks is laid on it. Clutch immediately level with the help of a level. The thickness of the clay castle will be non-uniform, since the bottom is made with a slope.

When settling the drainage pit with permeable walls, the bricks are laid with a gap in the places where there should be vertical seams

First, bricks are placed at the corners-beacons, their position is carefully leveled. Further clutch is carried out by rope lighthouses, which are stretched for each row. Experienced masters can perform masonry at once three rows or use a special rack-order. Beginners are advised to first check the level of literally every laid brick. The plumb is controlled by the quality of the masonry along the vertical, so that the wall is level.

The stacking of each row of bricks should be carefully checked with a level. A special thread stretched along the row will facilitate masonry work

Depending on the thickness of the wall, a brick masonry scheme is chosen. If you want to make a wall 25 cm thick, then perform the masonry "in one brick", and if 12 cm - "half a brick". The length of the brick corresponds to the width of the wall. Of course, the permeable cesspit is not done. Usually it is put "in half a brick", while between the individual bricks make gaps, so that through these holes could drain liquid runoff.

The brick laying scheme is chosen depending on the width of the wall. For cesspools, masonry is often used in half a brick (12 cm) or one brick (25 cm)

In any case, one should adhere to the rule: vertical seams between bricks in adjacent rows should not coincide. The laying is carried out as follows: a small amount of a solution is applied to the surface of the base with a trowel. On top put and press the brick, gently tapping it with a trowel, so that it takes the correct position.

If you want to make a brick cylindrical drain hole, then the bricks will have to be stacked along the arc. It is important that the seams in the adjacent rows do not match, this can weaken the construction

Then the excess solution is selected by the trowel. There is another technology: the solution is applied to a separate brick, then it is put in place. Here are a few useful advice for the performance of masonry work:

Dimensions of mortar filled with mortar between bricks should be about 6-8 mm.
The seam everywhere should be the same size everywhere, it will improve the quality of work.
Brick should be spread along the walls in small portions to shorten the work time (you do not have to bring every brick from the common heap).
Before laying bricks watered, this improves the adhesion of the surface to the solution.
Every fifth row is recommended to be laid using a special reinforcing mesh.

Of course, a sewage pipe must be connected to the cesspool. The entry point should be carefully treated with a solution so that there are no leaks. The pipe must be properly insulated, laid below the freezing level of the ground with the required slope. After the masonry works are finished, the walls need to be plastered.

The sewage pipe must enter the sewage system at a small angle to ensure an optimum rate of movement of wastewater and waste

Waterproofing and overhead coating

On the plaster lay a layer of waterproofing material, for example, bitumen mastic. These measures will help extend the life of the sewer. When applying waterproofing materials, follow the instructions carefully. For example, a mastic is required for a dry base.

Now you can set the top overlap. To do this, it is best to purchase a ready-made concrete slab with a hole and a lid. Alternatively, you can consider a self-made concrete structure or an overlap of wood. The last option does not differ by strength, every few years this overlap will have to be replaced.

If the decision is made to make a concrete floor by yourself, you should start it at the same time as the base and with similar technology. The filling is carried out in the wooden formwork. The parameters of the upper overlap must exceed the dimensions of the hole it will cover by at least 30 cm.

The hole for servicing the waste pit must be large enough so that a person can climb through it to inspect the structure

First pour a layer of solution a few centimeters, then install the reinforcement and fill the main layer. This element should dry for four weeks. In the upper ceiling, you need to make another hole - a vent. The sewage system needs to be properly vented, since with time, sewage starts to emit methane, and this is a dangerous gas.

For the organization of natural ventilation use plastic pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm. From above the pipe is covered protective device, the lower part of it also does not interfere with the grate. After installing the ceiling, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing over the structure, a roofing material and even a thick polyethylene film. From above usually lay a soil-vegetative layer to improve a site and to protect a cesspool from freezing in the winter.

Features of device operation

Basic care for cesspit is reduced to being emptied and cleaned in time. Essential assistance in the processing and disposal of waste can be a special bacteria, designed for cesspools. Such drugs are usually supplied detailed instructions and very easy to use. They need to either simply pour / pour into the sewer, or pre-mix with some water.

Pumping of waste from the drainage pit is best done with the help of special equipment. Remove drains should be when their number takes two-thirds of the capacity

Such microorganisms are able to process wastes, decomposing them into harmless components. At the same time, the smell characteristic of sewage systems disappears. But it should be remembered that contact with some types of household chemicals for bacteria is disastrous, so you will have to check the composition of cleaning and cleaning products that are available in the house.

After the cesspool has been cleaned, it will not hurt to inspect it and check the integrity of the brick walls. If necessary, perform minor repairs to the structure: replace damaged bricks with whole, restore damaged waterproofing, etc.

Video on brick cesspools

Clearly, the process of laying a brick when creating a permeable cesspool is presented here:

This video describes the process of creating a cesspool in a site with high groundwater:

A brick cesspool is a reliable and convenient structure. It is not easy to make such a device, but all efforts will pay off, since with the observance of technology such a device can last for many years.

Fifty years is a lot or a little? During this period the technique has moved far ahead. It would seem that more recently people living in the private sector did not have the opportunity to take hot showers and had to walk to the toilet, which is not entirely agreeable.

For a modern man, accustomed to live in comfortable conditions, there can be no such discomfort. Therefore, when building or renovating a house or a cottage, the question arises: how to make a living in it, even if it's a short-term, if it's a holiday cottage, more comfortable.

The convenience of a family's living in the house depends on the availability of communications in it. These include gas, light, water,. Next, we will dwell in more detail on the installation of sewage in the cottage. Absolutely true is the assumption that every owner wants to have at home all the amenities. But far from everyone can lay out a tidy sum for this and, moreover, spend on installation of all that is necessary for this a lot of time. But if your house is small and your family does not live in it permanently, but only stops for a short time, the drainage pit will help to solve the problem.

This structure, which is a kind of well, which works on the principle of drainage. The drain pit can be made in-house from a barrel, used car tires or from a brick, new or used.

Drain pit of plastic container

The drainage pit from the barrel is constructed from a large metal or plastic container with a volume of 200 liters, the lateral surface of which should be equipped with drainage holes. The holes can be made a "Bulgarian" with an established circle for cutting metal.

Drainage holes are cut in staggered order with a step of 15-20 cm. To connect the sewage system in the bottom of the tank, a branch pipe is fixed.

The junction of the branch pipe with the bottom must be made absolutely waterproof, for this you can use a silicone sealant. Sealing should be carried out both inside the barrel and outside. The pipe will be connected to the sewer pipe by means of a coupling.

In order to protect the barrel from getting suspended particles into it, and at the same time to facilitate the free flow of liquid, it should be completely wrapped. Such a material is a nonwoven web of polyester material and has good filtering, drainage and protective properties.

Geotextile tightly attached to the surface of the barrel with a synthetic rope or adhesive tape, for the branch pipe to provide an opening. The open top of the barrel is firmly fixed with a piece of geotextile. In the place where there will be a drainage (shower, wash-hand basin, toilet in the country) dig a hole that should exceed the size of the installed barrel.

The bottom of the drainage pit is filled with crushed stone or gravel, 20-30 cm thick. The barrel is installed with a branch pipe upwards, and gravel is poured on the sides to the very top of the pit. The last step is the connection of the sewer pipe to the branch pipe. That's how you can use a barrel, making a drain hole out of it.

Drain pit from car tires

Used tires will be useful for sewerage in the suburban area. This will require free time and 4-5 used tires. The principle of installation of a drain pit from tires is almost the same as the installation of a drain pit from a barrel. Also, you need to choose a suitable location for the sewage system. At this point a pit is digging, wider than the diameter of the tires by 20 cm.

The depth of the pit should be more by 60-80 cm than the height of all future rings in total. The bottom of the pit is covered with coarse gravel, 30-40 cm thick. Then it is possible to lay tires on one another, and very tightly and evenly, so that the joints are minimal. From the tires, cut or cut off the side panels. With this you will be able to cope with either a big sharp knife or the same. At the top ring-tire it is necessary to cut down only one lateral side. Enter the drain pipe at the level of 4 or 5 rings, for which it cuts a special hole. The drain pit is closed with a strong lid, for example, metal or wooden, and covered with a thick layer of soil.

Drain pit made of bricks

Quite simply and inexpensively, you can make a drain hole of brick. In this case it does not matter which brick to use, new or used, the main thing is that it is ceramic and burnt. It will depend on this, how long the drainage pit made of similar building material will serve you. The usual brick will not work, as it is afraid of water and quickly crumbled.

The bottom of the future drainage pit is filled with a pillow of pure gravel or crushed stone, and the walls are covered with bricks. Masonry is conducted in polkirpicha and cement mortar. The drain pit should be covered with a strong lid, which can be purchased at the building store, but if you want to save, you can make it yourself from concrete, for example.

This method of draining a well allows the use of reinforced concrete rings or large plastic containers without a bottom.

All of the above methods are good in that they do not involve high costs and are fairly easy to install, also suitable for small country cottages. It is possible to use such structures if there is a low groundwater level on the site, the ground does not sink and there is no provision for drinking water. When choosing a location for a drainage pit, several nuances should be considered. The place should be located as far as possible from the windows, so as not to feel the possible unpleasant odor, and also to the place where the waste pit is located, there should be a convenient access for specialized cleaning machines, which sooner or later will need to be carried out.

Summarizing the above, we can say that a good owner will not remain without sewage, even if he does not have large money. You just need to want to equip your living space.

Thought over the issue of manufacturing country water supply? Then you should know that in addition to it it is necessary to make also a country sewer system. By and large, it differs little from the system of waste water pipelines that are laid in the city - the difference between them is only at the point of discharge of contaminated water. If everything is in the city sewer pipes lead to the treatment facilities (at least, so it should ideally be), then at the cottage in the role of them a drainage pit is used. It is about her, or rather about her self-construction, and will talk in this article, in which, together with the site, we will understand with its device, manufacturing technology and materials that can be used to create it.

How to make a drain hole photo

Drain pit: the device and the principle of operation

Structurally, the classical draining pit is a simple device, which almost every person can make at the dacha - even special skills are not needed here. Moreover, it can be made from a fairly large number of improvised materials. This is on the one hand, but if you look at this device from the other side, then, like all technical devices, the waste pit has its own subtleties and nuances that you need to know. First and foremost, this device and the principle of operation - understand these points, so there will be no problems with the selection of materials for the pit, or with its immediate construction. A classical waste pit consists of the following elements.

More details about the device and the principle of the construction of a drainage pit in the country can be found in this video.

In principle, this and the whole device - as you can see, made by own hands the drain hole is not distinguished by the complexity of the design. Even simpler is the principle of its operation - the effluents falling into the pit are simply absorbed into the soil. This is as for the liquid part of them - with solid wastes things are somewhat different. First they accumulate at the bottom and do everything to hammer the channels in the soil and prevent the rapid absorption of the liquid - they seem to set themselves the task of making it so that they are constantly in the water. In the end, it will happen - when this happens, you just need to start adding to the pit special bacteria that will dilute the solid waste of human life.

Drain pit in the country house with his own hands: what to do

As you have already understood, the main element of the drainage pit, which, in general, and will have to build, is a stub wall, which prevents the destruction of the pit. It can be made from various materials that can be collected quite a lot - naturally, we will not do this and only consider the most common options. The task is not to poke your nose, they say, do this, and clarify the principle, after understanding which, you can independently choose the material necessary for the drainage pit from what is available at the dacha.

In general, the principle is simple - you need to create some kind of capacity. How and what you do it from, now it's up to you. It is necessary to carefully cross the dacha, and other storage facilities - you see, something will come up suitable.

How to properly make a drainage pit: bottom filter and its purpose

Bottom filter - without it no pit is not able to serve a long time - it is for this reason that the issue of how to make the bottom of the drainage pit should be given special attention. There is nothing complicated here, just need to know a couple of points, which, in general, extend the life of the waste pit in the country.

In principle, these are all the nuances associated with the fabrication of a floor drain filter. They should not squeamish, even in the construction of a small sinkhole - as mentioned above, it is able to extend the life of an individual in two or even three times.

At the conclusion of the topic about how a sinkhole is being made, I will say a few words about its close congeners-the septic. They differ from each other in the presence of the second several chambers in which separation of solid and liquid wastes takes place. In the final result, one liquid enters the chamber in which water is sucked into the soil, as a result of which the ducts in the soil are practically not clogged. Consequently, this well serves without pumping for a very long time - if you correctly make a septic tank, then you can use it for almost half a century. On how to do it, read in another article of our site.