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Swing gates - manufacturing and installation on your own. How to make swing gates with your own hands Do-it-yourself swing gates drawings

Making a gate yourself is much easier than it seems at first glance. To do this, you only need basic metal working tools and a welding machine. Let's talk in detail about materials and manufacturing technology.

The project is the head of everything

The manufacture of gates should begin with the preparation of the project, i.e. a drawing showing all the features and dimensions of the future structure. Therefore, before compiling it, you need to decide on the following nuances of the product:

type of construction - most often the gates are made swinging or sliding;
design - largely depends on the design and materials;
size - selected taking into account individual requirements;
the location of the gate - it can be built into the gate or in the form of a door on a separate stand.

When you have a clear idea of the future gate, draw it on paper. The basic structural elements are always the same - a frame is used, which is a frame reinforced with jumpers and struts. The frame is usually covered with sheet material. For these purposes, sheet steel or corrugated sheets are usually used.

The supporting function is performed by racks or pillars. Most often, profiled pipes are used as the latter, which are dug into the ground and concreted. Sometimes they use concrete pillars or build them from brick. The gate leaves are attached to them using awnings.

If you do not have a welding machine or experience working with metal, you can make similar gates from wood. They have the same frame, but made of timber. They can be sheathed with the same corrugated sheet or boards.

When drawing up drawings, you can take the projects we propose as a basis, adjusting their dimensions.

Double-leaf structure made of corrugated sheets - a classic of the genre

As an example, let's look at how to make swing gates from corrugated sheets. To make them you will need the following materials:

wall corrugated sheets (can be replaced with steel sheets);
profiled pipe with a cross section of 20x40 mm;
profiled pipes 80x100 with a wall thickness of 7 mm (can be replaced with a channel beam);
cement, sand and crushed stone for pouring concrete;
gate hinges;
rod with a diameter of 15-20 mm.

You can calculate the required amount of materials using the existing design diagram. When everything you need has been purchased, you can begin making the frame of the doors. To do this, you must first cut the 20x40 profile to get 2 segments equal to the width of the sash, and 2 segments equal to its height.

Weld a rectangular frame from these sections. When joining pipes, be sure to use a square so that the frame angles correspond to 90 degrees. Then you need to fill in, i.e. weld several horizontal jumpers. You can install one horizontal jumper, which divides the sash in half, and then weld struts to the upper and lower halves of the sash, as shown in the project proposed above. Sometimes horizontal jumpers are abandoned in favor of two intersecting struts.

The frame of the second leaf and gate is made in the same way. If the gate is built into the sash, filling is done a little differently - as a rule, the wicket occupies half of the sash, so secure a vertical post in the center of the frame. Now that the gate opening is demarcated, fill the sash according to the described scheme.

It must be said that gates made of corrugated sheets do not have to be made exclusively in a rectangular shape. If you want the design to be more original and attractive, the upper crossbars can be made curved, for example, in an arched shape. True, to bend the profile you will need a powerful pipe bender.

Immediately make stoppers that will allow you to block the gate from the inside. They are L-shaped vertical bolts that are located at the bottom of the frame. The stoppers pass through the hole in the lower profile of the frame and enter reinforced holes in the ground about 5 centimeters. To prevent the bolts from falling out when lifted, weld the stoppers in the form of strips. In addition, attach strips that will allow the stoppers to be secured in the raised position.

Additionally, a horizontal bolt can be made from a metal plate between the doors. To do this, weld several loops made of a metal rod to the crossbar, in which the bolt plate will move. In addition, make holes of the required size in the frame posts.

An even more reliable option for constipation is a lock. To weld it, you need to make a landing platform from metal plates. Its dimensions depend on the size and type of lock being installed.

Now that the frame is ready, you can install the support pillars. To do this, first make a marking - draw a line on which the gate will be installed. Then, on the line, mark the locations of the racks, according to the project.

Then dig holes to a depth of about 30% of the height of the racks. Make the diameter of the holes 30-40 centimeters. Cover the bottom of the holes with a layer of sand and crushed stone 15 cm thick. Before installing the supports, weld a couple of jumpers from a corner or profile pipe to their lower part. They will provide more reliable fixation of the pillars.

The height of the pillars above the ground level should be slightly greater than the height of the gate so that a gap of about 25 cm can be provided between the doors and the soil.

Then lower the pillars into the holes, fix them in a vertical position and fill them with concrete. After this, you need to stop work until the concrete gains strength. If the area under the gate will not be filled with concrete, a metal corner should be placed under the gate and welded to the posts.

Now you can install the frame on the racks. To do this, we apply markings on the sashes so that the hinges are located on the same line, and then weld them to the frame. The supports are marked in the same way and then the second half of the hinges are welded to them. After this, the sash frames are installed in the working position - to do this, put the sash hinges on the frame hinges. If the hinges are not removable, the frames must be fixed in working position along with the hinges, aligned with the markings, and then welded to the racks.

Once the frames are installed, the sheathing can be done. Cut the corrugated sheets according to the design and secure them to the frame with bolts and nuts. Pre-drill holes for them along the perimeter of the frame in increments of 150 mm. In the center of the canvas, the bolt spacing can be increased.

You can decorate the gate with forged elements. They are purchased in specialized stores and welded to the casing or on top of the frame.

If the area under the gate will be filled with concrete, lay two pipes with an internal diameter slightly larger than the stoppers above the stoppers. Otherwise, drill holes for stoppers in the corner (threshold).

Sliding gate with drive – sim-sim, open

Sliding (cantilever) gates with a drive are becoming increasingly popular, as they are the most convenient to use. Special automation allows you to control them even using a remote control.

Like swing gates, sliding gates have a frame at their base, which can be covered with the same corrugated sheet or other sheet material. The only thing is that they are one large sash with a counterweight that moves to the side. The load-bearing element is a horizontal beam to which the canvas is attached.

Depending on the location of the beam, sliding gates are divided into three types:

with a lower location - the beam is installed a few centimeters from the ground;
with a middle position - the beam divides the sash in half;
with a top location - the beam is located above the gate.

Another feature of this design is that the pillars that form the entrance, i.e. located to the left and right of the sash, they practically do not bear the load from the canvas.

One end of the beam hangs freely, as a result of which the structure is called cantilever. The other end, above which the counterweight is located, lies on two supports with rollers (cantilever blocks). A supporting bracket is installed on one of the pillars, which serves as a guide.

pipes 60x40 and 40x20 mm;
reinforcement 12 mm;
concrete.

It must be said that it will not be possible to make cantilever gates entirely with your own hands. Therefore, you will have to purchase a drive kit that includes:

electric motor;
electronics;
plates with rollers;
two catchers.

In addition, you will need a special beam, inside which the rollers will ride. The beam has a U-shaped profile with edges curved inward, which allows the rollers to fix the structure.

Start your work by making a frame from a 60x40 mm pipe. In our case, the gate size is 4x1.9 m plus a 2 m counterweight, i.e. the frame will have a size of 6x1.9 m. Separate the canvas from the counterweight with a vertical stand made of a 60x40 mm pipe. Then fill as shown in the diagram using a 40x20 mm pipe. After this, weld the beam to the bottom of the frame with the back facing up, as shown above.

Now you need to pour the foundation along the length of the counterweight. It is performed according to the principle of a conventional strip foundation - dig a trench 2 m long and 40 cm wide below the freezing level of the soil. The bottom should be filled with sand and crushed stone. Be sure to install embedded parts in the trench (2-3 racks made of 80x60 mm pipe) and weld a 20 cm wide channel to them with the back facing up. The latter will serve as a platform for supports. Tie the embedded parts together with several reinforcement belts, then fill the foundation with concrete to the level of the channel.

After the concrete has hardened, a pair of plates with a thickness of at least 5–7 mm must be welded to the channel. The distance between the plates should be approximately one and a half meters. Weld threaded studs to the plates, having first marked the location of the mounting holes in the carriages with rollers. Place the brackets on the prepared areas and tighten them with nuts that screw onto the studs.

Now install the frame into working position - simply roll the beam onto the rollers. Immediately install catchers that prevent the structure from swinging in the closed position in strong winds. To install them, in the closed position of the sash, mark the location of the “traps” on the pole. If the posts are brick or concrete, secure the catchers to them with dowels. If the racks are metal, then installation can be done by welding.

Attach a support bracket with rollers to the second post located on the counterweight side. It is also advisable to weld two posts to the channel from the fence side and attach additional upper rollers to each of them. They are a U-shaped part, on each “leg” of which a roller is attached. As a result, the top bar of the frame simply rolls between the rollers when the sash moves.

On the catcher side, you can install a bolt or lock that will block the door. It must be positioned so that the tongue moves not horizontally, but vertically. On the post, attach a counter plate with a hole in which there will be a bolt or lock tongue.

To do this, weld plugs to the edges of the beam. In addition, at the end of the counterweight you need to attach a ring to which the cable or drive chain will cling. A similar ring must be welded on the opposite side of the beam. Both rings should be at the same level.

Opposite the lower catcher, a thrust wheel is attached to the beam. When the sash closes, it runs over the catcher and slightly lifts the sash. This allows you to slightly relieve the load from the rollers and transfer it to the pole.

At this point the work is almost completed. All that remains is to cover the frame with corrugated sheets and install the gate opening mechanism, as well as connect the electronics. As a rule, the engine is installed on the counterweight side. The sash is moved using a gear and chain. The drive electronics are placed in a separate unit, which is connected to the electric motor.

It must be said that each drive model may have its own connection nuances, so this process is usually described in detail in the instructions included in the kit.

Buy a power unit with a power reserve, as in winter the load on it will increase greatly .

After installing the drive, your gate will open at the touch of a button.

The main task of any gate is to ensure the entry of motor vehicles beyond the fenced area, into an industrial or commercial building. Such structures are installed in suburban areas, in country houses and in garages. And, as a rule, they are made to order. However, knowing the features of these products and how to make swing gates with your own hands, you can do without outside help and save on the enclosing structures of your site.

Advantages and disadvantages of the chosen option

Swing gates, which are two doors hung on hinges, are considered one of the most popular options in the field of private construction. The reasons for their choice include:

simple design, which reduces the risk of gate failure and increases its service life;
relatively low cost, especially for do-it-yourself structures;
no height restrictions (except for garage doors). A car with oversized vertical cargo can pass through the swing gates;
a large number of shapes and design solutions that are practically not found in other types of gates;
no need for concreting the site;
the ability to automate their opening, ensuring the use of the gate even without leaving the car.

Among the disadvantages of this option is the need for a large space to use the gate. In addition, the structure is almost impossible to insulate. And when constructing a gate, you should also take into account the wind load in the area. However, all these disadvantages are easily compensated for. Moreover, the swing structure still has more advantages.

Types of structures

Before starting work on the manufacture of gates, you should decide on the features of their design. You should choose a specific option based on the characteristics of operation and frequency of use. The width of the passage that such gates enclose also matters. In total, three types of structures are used:

With one leaf;
Bivalve;
With two doors and a gate (mortise or located separately).

Single-leaf structures, consisting of one continuous leaf, are used less frequently than others. First of all, due to the need to install a more powerful support and metal frame. And more space is required to open them with the same width.

The most popular double-leaf gates are simpler to manufacture and easy to install yourself. The structure consists of two panels of the same size, covered with sheet metal. The space needed to open it is half that of a single-leaf gate. And the pillars do not require additional reinforcement.

A design intended for constant use not only by vehicles, but also by people - a gate with two leaves and a wicket. They are made according to the same principle as conventional double-leaf structures, but the difference is the presence of additional support. Although, if the gate is installed in a garage or in the opening of a production workshop, the gate is built into one of the leaves and does not require the installation of a third post.

You should know: Not all gates are made with solid leaves made of metal sheets. Some may be made from wrought iron or other features that provide visibility through the gate. This option is more decorative than protective.

Basic materials

One of the main classifications of gates is their division according to the material of manufacture:

Gates made of metal sheets are suitable for fencing any area and are most often installed in garages;
Solid wooden doors are more suitable for fencing around the site. To make their doors, dense, heavy wood is used - oak, spruce or pine;
Polycarbonate or corrugated sheets are ideal for automatic gates, as their weight is lower than other options.

Often used for the manufacture of structures and combined options - wooden with metal elements or metal with forged parts. One of the most cost-effective options is corrugated sheet metal, which is characterized by its light weight, variety of colors and durability. And sheets of such coating are produced in sizes convenient for use, allowing to reduce cutting volumes and reduce gate manufacturing time.

Features of design and installation

Before you make a swing gate with your own hands according to the drawing, you should understand the design diagram, which should indicate:

Dimensions of sashes and pillars;
Placement of transverse parts on the swinging part of the gate;
Location of locking elements.

The standard gate design consists of a rectangular frame made of a metal profile (round, that is, a pipe, or rectangular). The cross-sectional diameter of the profiles is from 2.5 to 4.5 cm. The sashes are made of metal and strengthened transversely (or diagonally) using a cross with a diameter of 2–4 cm. The number of such elements required to increase the rigidity of the structure depends on the height and width gate

Hanging canvases

The supports on which the metal doors are hung are also most often made from metal pipes of larger diameter (up to 10 cm). Sometimes a channel or I-beam can be used as a rack. Metal loops are attached to the supports, the dimensions of which also depend on the parameters and weight of the canvases, and the number is usually two on each side.

The diagram according to which the gates are assembled may provide for hanging the leaves not on metal, but on brick or concrete supports (with or without reinforcement). This increases the cost of work, but makes the structure stronger. Especially if so-called embedded metal parts are placed in the brickwork.

When designing, it should be taken into account that the minimum recommended width of any gate should be 300 cm. If it is not possible to construct such a structure, it is allowed to reduce it to no more than 280 cm. This will ensure the passage of any vehicle, even freight transport, through the gate. And the recommended height from the bottom of the sash to the ground is taken to be 80–100 mm.

The height of the structures may differ noticeably from each other. This parameter largely depends on the installation location:

for a garage or production workshop, the height must be no less than the maximum vertical dimensions of vehicles passing through the gate (including railway vehicles, if we are talking about an enterprise);
for an ordinary passenger car, 2 meters is enough.

A hinged locking mechanism will ensure reliable fastening of the sashes when closed. It looks like the letter “G” and serves as a stopper when opening. In the place where the locking mechanism enters the ground, it is recommended to dig a hollow metal pipe 1 cm thicker in thickness - its presence increases the reliability of protection, although it complicates the automation of the opening or closing processes. The rack stopper should fit 40–100 mm inside this structure. Horizontal locks can be installed in the middle, top or bottom of the structure. To ensure reliability of their fastening, the parts are mounted on one of the crossbars.

Installation of automation

Almost any swing gate design can be additionally equipped with automation for more convenient opening and closing. On the materials market you can find several standard solutions for electrical drives, which include a control unit, a signal lamp, an electromagnetic lock and a receiving antenna. As a rule, the devices operate from a regular single-phase power supply and can be designed in the same way as automatic swing gates themselves, which are more difficult and more expensive to make with your own hands than regular ones.

Automation is used both for systems with external opening of the valves, and for options with internal ones. And the control unit is placed immediately next to the pole, providing a special place for it. If this was not the case, and the wall is brick, a niche is hollowed out in the brick to install the equipment. The main thing in this case is to install wiring of a suitable cross-sectional diameter, providing a place for its installation.

After installing a device that ensures automated operation of the structure, the number of its swing advantages increases noticeably. Now they can be controlled even at a fairly large distance. For example, from home – the range of the remote control for automatic opening and closing can reach 30 meters.

In this video I will show you how to convert regular gates into automatic swing gates with your own hands. I've had the idea of replacing the gate with an automatic one for a long time. And at some point a scheme was born that I put into practice. The gate is controlled by a remote control from the alarm system. This light serves as an indication that the drives are turned on and off.

I opened the gate inwards. All electrical is housed in a sealed box and the wiring is underground. The electric motors of the drives are powered by a voltage of 12 volts. I have tested the opening speed so far only in winter, and it ranges from 40 seconds to 1 minute. Each of the two drives is made according to the same design. The movable drive rod is attached to a special lug on the gate. The drive itself is attached via a welded bracket to the pole. All wiring is made in a sealed corrugation.

As you can see, I protected the internal parts of the drive with a suitable plastic box and a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters. This solution completely protects the electric motor and limit switches from moisture.

Features of work

I have different buttons on the remote control for closing and opening the gate, and this is very convenient when I need to open or close the gate. Another point that I wanted to implement: when closing, the gate is blocked due to the original design. Neither on the ground nor above the gate are there any jumpers or stops that fix the gate in its extreme position. The gate simply closes and then remains in a slightly wedged state. This design does not provide for the order of closing the left or right wing; a gap of several millimeters is left between the gates. This approach, it seems to me, simplifies the gate control circuit. When the gate is closed, the drives are automatically switched off.

I manufactured and installed my gate drives in the winter. And this is a good test for the reliability and durability of the device. Therefore, I used proven automotive components and parts. It so happened that this winter I calmly operated my automatic gates at this temperature.

What changes in the cold? The automation works flawlessly, only the gate opening/closing time increases. I think it has to do with lubrication. In cold weather it becomes thicker. The next question that you are probably interested in is: what to do when there is no electricity? I simply pull out the pin that secures the drive rod to the gate, and then simply open the gate with my hands and lower the stops down.

I am not a fan of using a battery as a backup power supply, as I consider this scheme to be expensive and require constant maintenance and charging. In addition, the frequency of power outages in your area is an individual issue. Over several months of operation, I opened the gate only once. To close the gate without electricity, you need to perform the opposite operations: move the axes of the drive rod and the gate, and insert the pin. That's all, and it seems to me that it is not difficult.

The design of the gate has its own peculiarity. To reduce windage, the lower part is made in the form of a mesh.

How to lock gates without using drives? There is a rotating bolt for this purpose. So it is open, and so it is closed.

When the automation is connected, the bolt is always in the open position. I show you the frame of the gate itself. This is the simplest design possible. In my opinion, there are no unnecessary parts in it and at the same time the gate is quite rigid.

How do drives block gates? Let's look at this in more detail. The whole trick is in the special installation of the gate hinges. If you look closely, you will see that the hinges are welded in such a way that they prevent the gate from opening outward.

When closing, the vertical pipe of the gate rests against the post and gusts of wind blowing outward will not be able to pull out the drive. And the screw design of the drive will not allow the gate to be pressed inward.

conclusions

In conclusion, let's look at the features of this project:

the budget for two drives and a control unit was about 5,000 rubles;
to make the drives, I used jacks and gear motors for windshield wipers from a “penny”;
I came up with the control unit circuit myself and implemented it using a relay;
For additional security, I used two levels of gate closing and opening control. These are ordinary limit switches and time relays;
I used control panels from a budget car alarm system;
and finally, I have implemented separate buttons for opening and closing the gate, which allows you to open or close the gate. Which in practice turned out to be very useful.

Part 2

This is the second part of the video about do-it-yourself automatic swing gates. In the last issue I reviewed these gates, and today I will tell you in great detail about the electrical circuit.

I would like to warn you right away that this unit is assembled to perform specific tasks on the gate. These are the tasks. This is the ability to open/close gates under wind and snow loads, when the operating time of the drives can be increased. The second is the ability to open the gate, using it as a gate for guests, for example. Third, the drives are completely turned off after opening or closing the gate. It also turns off after a certain time, which you can adjust yourself. Adjustment of the drive shutdown time is provided separately for opening and closing.

If these tasks suit you, then you can safely look at this detailed description of the circuit further.

What does the diagram consist of?

The scheme is based on available elements that can be bought in auto stores or ordered cheaply on Ali Express. The basis of the circuit is two pulse relays, which are triggered when a short negative pulse is received from the remote control unit. The automation unit is in front of you. Let's look at the main elements.

The first is the control unit. Regular car alarm. The cheapest Chinese one. I ordered it on Ali Express. It cost about 300 rubles.

The next large elements are two pulse relays. This is what these relays look like. This is their number. This is the rear fog light relay. Used in VAZs and Chevrolet Niva. It is easy to find and sold in stores. Costs about 240 rubles. In my circuit there are two of these relays: the first and the second.

The following elements are a regular five-pin relay. One, two, three, four and one four-pin relay. This relay is necessary to provide an intermittent signal to the lamp so that others can see that the gate is currently opening or closing.

Also in the diagram there are two time relay modules - one and two. They are absolutely the same. These modules ensure that my circuit is turned off using a timer.

Here are all the main elements that are present in my scheme. And now I will try to schematically draw the operating principle of this device. How does this scheme work?

Scheme of work

First we draw all the large blocks. This will be the control unit for the car alarm. We use only two signals from this control unit. Both signals are pulsed and have negative polarity. That is, this is a minus. Our first signal will be responsible for opening the gate, and the second will be responsible for closing the gate. Naturally, on the alarm remote control it will be these two buttons. The closed lock button is what we use to close the gate. And an open lock is the opening of a gate.

Go ahead. The most important thing in my circuit is the two pulse relays that I talked about earlier. Here they are. Therefore, we place them in the center. First and second. This will be P1 - opening, and this will be P2 - closing. As I already said, we use this impulse relay with this number. They are easy to find in automotive stores and are quite inexpensive. The relay data connection diagram is very simple. I'll show you schematically what it looks like. There are only 6 contacts. Contacts I use. I apply a constant plus to the first contact, and a constant minus to the third contact. The fifth contact is the control one, the minus should come to it. Moreover, this minus can be impulsive. This is exactly what we need. We have a pulse signal with negative polarity coming from the control unit.

Therefore we will do the following. We connect the control unit to the first opening relay. This is our discovery. This is where the control minus comes from the control unit. And the second relay is controlled by a second signal from the control unit. This is our closure and this is also a minus.

Further, according to this diagram for connecting a pulse relay, I use the fourth contact - this is a constant plus at the output. The moment when a pulse of negative polarity arrives at the fifth contact. So here on the fourth pin there will be a signal. This will be a plus. I'll draw it like this.

Electric motors in the circuit

Go ahead. In our diagram, of course, there are electric motors for gate drives, there are two of them. I'll refer to them as M1 and M2. In the simplest version, for this circuit to work, we only need to apply a minus signal from the power supply to these motors. Do this and take any plus from any of these relays. Now how can this scheme work? Very simple. Let's say I need to open the gate - I press the first opening button. On the control unit, a pulse of negative polarity appears on the first contact, and it starts this relay (the first). This relay is triggered and a constant plus appears at the fourth output of the relay. This plus goes to each of the electric motors. And we already got the minus by connecting through the power supply. Thus, they begin to rotate in one direction. The circuit starts to work, both engines spin - our gate opens.

In order to stop this scheme, I press the same button again - the gate open button. What's happening? Again, a control pulse signal of negative polarity appears in the control unit. So it comes here and again it goes to the pulse relay. Since the relay is pulsed, each pulse changes the state of the relay. Thus, if it was turned on, then it turns off, and this plus from the fourth contact disappears. And both engines stop because the plus for both engines disappears.

If we connect the plus from the second relay, which is responsible for closing, then we will use the closing button. Here it is - a lock, we press it, and the signal that goes along this wire is triggered in the control unit. That is, here we have a pulse minus coming through this wire to the second relay, which is responsible for closing. A positive appears on the fourth contact of this relay. We have this plus connected to both motors and now they begin to rotate again, but they rotate in the same direction.

In order to stop closing, we must press the same button again. Then the control minus from the control unit goes through this wire again to the closing relay. The pulse relay changes its state, and the plus of the fourth contact goes away, and again the engines stop.

In order to make the gate drive motors rotate in the other direction and ensure closing, we need some kind of circuit that will change the polarity. Since each relay produces a positive control signal. To do this, I will use a regular five-pin relay, here I have one and two.

They will work in conjunction and provide a change in polarity on these two contacts. How will it look like? When I apply an opening or closing control signal, one or another pulse relay will be triggered, and here the polarity will change on these two contacts. Let's say it was a plus here, and a minus here, and then it will become a minus here, and a plus here. This way I will reverse the engine.

We draw a diagram of the polarity change. As I already said, these are two five-pin relays. Here it is first, and here it is second. Let's designate the contacts. Here we have contact 88, sometimes it is also called 87A. This is not important. On this side we have 30 power contacts. Then these two contacts are 87. And two contacts for controlling the relay coil.

These are 86 and 85. And here are 86 and 85, respectively. Now how will we connect these contacts? Let's do the following. We set 88 contacts to minus. That is, we have a minus here and a minus here.

We connect the 86 and 85 relay contacts to each other and also turn them to minus. We must apply plus to contacts 87 of both relays. Here we will have a plus, I will label it here. To make it clear, I’ll even draw with a red felt-tip pen. So, we have a plus here. And we have a minus here.

We must connect contact 85 of the first relay to contact 4 of the pulse relay for opening. And we must connect pin 86 of the second polarity change relay to pin 4 of the pulse relay to close. There remain 30 contacts of the polarity change relay. We will connect our electric motor in parallel to these contacts.

Now let's see how this scheme will work. Let's say we don't have impulse relays. I'll close them now. What will happen? In the unconnected state, both polarity reversals will operate according to the following principle. Contact 87 will be normally closed, here and here. Therefore, the plus will be removed from this contact and sent to pin 30. I'm drawing a plus here and I'm also drawing a plus here because 30 and 87 will be shorted here too. So we have plus and plus. As you understand, electric motors will not work with this connection.

What happens if we give them a signal? So, we wanted to open the gate, we press the gate open button, a pulse signal appears in the control unit. About this line, he comes here and opens pulse relay number 1. On the 4th contact of this relay, we have a permanent plus, which comes to the 85th contact of the first polarity change relay and changes the state of the normally closed 87th contact to a normally open one. Thus, contact 888 or 87A, as it is also called, closes. And at pin 30 we get not a plus, but a minus. I'm drawing a minus here. And here we have a plus.

Since the motors are connected in parallel, they begin to rotate in one specific direction. When I press the same “open” button again, an impulse from the control unit arrives at the same first relay, it changes its state and disappears from contact 4 plus. Thus, the signal disappears at contact 85 of the polarity change relay, the coil no longer magnetizes the contact and contact 88 goes into the “normally open” state. And contact 87 is “normally closed”. That is, we get a plus here again. And we have a plus here again and a plus here. Therefore, the electric drive motors stop again.

If I press the “close” button, then the same operation occurs only with the second impulse relay. That is, the signal comes here - this is a pulse minus signal, it goes to the second relay. On this relay we have a plus on pin 4. This plus goes to pin 86 of the polarity change relay, and on this side we will have not a plus, but a minus. Both engines start, but they turn in the other direction. This is how I solved the issue of changing the polarity. Using just two five-pin relays.

An interesting question you might ask is what happens if, when the first opening relay is turned on, that is, when I press the “open gate” button, I immediately press the “close gate” button. Then the following will happen: both relays will be in the “on” state and then the plus will be present both here and here. And these polarity change relays will change their state. Electric drive motors will stop because there will be both negatives on the contacts. But this situation does not suit me, because both impulse relays will be constantly turned on and there will be a plus at their outputs. To prevent this from happening, I use two more relays. In my diagram they are right here at the top.

Interlock relay

I call them Open Interlock Relay and Close Interlock Relay respectively. What are they needed for? They are needed so that when I open the gate and my opening relay is activated, I cannot press the “close” button to turn on the second relay, which is responsible for closing the gate. On the diagram it will look like this. These are again two five-pin relays. The contacts will be located like this. These are 30, 87, 88, 86, 85. I will apply a negative signal to these contacts directly from the power supply. This will be “P opening block”, and this will be “P closing block”. Now both of our pulse relays will be connected to the control unit not directly, but through the corresponding opening and closing blocking relays.

Therefore, I erase this connection. We take the signal that is responsible for opening and apply it to the first relay to pin 87. Accordingly, to connect a pulse relay for opening. We must take the signal from pin 30 of the blocking relay.

And now, through the closing blocking relay, we will connect a signal to close the gate. We connect it to pin 87 again. I'll highlight them in color to make it clear. A negative pulse is removed from contact 30 of the closing blocking relay, and we apply it to the corresponding contact of the closing pulse relay.

How will this scheme work now? When we press the “gate open” button, a pulse signal appears in the control unit and along this line it first goes to the opening blocking relay at pin 87. We have this contact in a state where the relay is not connected - it is always closed, so we remove this impulse from contact 30 and it goes to our pulse relay for opening the gate. And further according to the scheme.

When I need to close the gate, I press another button, a signal appears in this branch. It goes to pin 87 of the closing blocking relay. This relay is not turned on yet. Therefore, from contact 30 we remove the minus, which goes to the second pulse relay, which is responsible for closing the gate.

Now let's do a trick. We will connect the positive signal from the opening pulse relay to pin 86 of the closing blocking relay. What will happen in this case?

So, when we open the gate and our impulse passes through this circuit, through the opening blocking relay, it is not turned on in any way. Contact 87 is closed to 30. Therefore, the opening pulse relay turns on, a plus appears at its output, and the circuit begins to work. But this plus along this branch goes to the closing blocking relay. And here the state of the relay changes. If earlier contact 87 was normally closed, now it opens and contact 30 closes to 88, which is not connected to anything. And even if now, I press the close button, and I will receive a signal from the control unit along this branch, and it will go to pin 87. Then the signal from this contact will not reach 30, because this relay has changed state. And contact 30 is closed to 88.

Therefore, pulse relay number 2, which closes the gate, will not be able to operate. We will make the same tricky connection for the opening blocking relay. We remove the positive signal from the second pulse relay. And we feed it here to contact 86 of the opening blocking relay.

As you may have guessed, the same principle of operation will be here. When I press the gate closing button, the negative signal along this branch passes through the blocking relay and goes to the second closing pulse relay. It is triggered, and the positive signal from pin 4 goes to pin 86 of the opening blocking relay.

The relay changes its state and contact 87 will no longer be connected to 30. 30 switches to 87. And now even if I press the button to open the gate, and I have a signal already in this branch, then it in no way passes further, and does not turns on the gate opening pulse relay. This piece of the circuit allows you to eliminate unnecessary operation of both pulse relays at the same time. I will try to show you what I just talked about in a more visual form.

Here they are impulse relays, here they are, these contacts, 6 contacts. And here they are, the blocking relays. This is how they are connected. In red I have wires that are connected to their corresponding pulse relays.

How does a light bulb work?

Go ahead. Let's consider the question of how we can make this circuit signal when one of these relays is turned on. That is, when our engines are running. For this we have some kind of light bulb. And it should glow for us. I use a turn relay in my circuit. This is a turn signal relay for Lada cars. Powering it is not difficult, the circuit is simple. I'll show you where I get the signals from in order to make this light bulb blink. So, we connect the light bulb directly to the relay. And in addition to the negative input, we must provide a positive signal to the relay. Where will we get it? We'll take it here. We take one of the signals from the first pulse relay. And we take the second signal at this point from the second pulse relay.

If I did this and connected the positive contact directly to the relay and brought these two contacts together, I would close the outputs of the first impulse relay and the second impulse relay, then I would be violating the circuit. They would not work correctly. Therefore, for this purpose it is necessary to use two ordinary diodes and place them like this. The first diode and the second diode.

It turned out a little clumsily, but I think you will understand the principle. Now what will happen? When we have the first or second relay open, then from their corresponding 4 contacts the plus will flow here. This plus passes through the diode, but it cannot get to the other branch due to the fact that there is another diode here. Accordingly, this plus goes further and comes to the turn relay and the light begins to blink.

If I press the gate open button and the first open relay is activated, then the positive is removed from pin 4 here. It also follows this circuit here, passes through the diode, but cannot get into this branch. And it goes below here to the turn signal relay and the light flashes again. Accordingly, when I press the close or open buttons a second time, these relays stop working. The positive signal from 4 contacts no longer comes here and the turn relay stops powering the light bulb, and the light bulb no longer blinks. The relay that makes the light blink is located here. This is a four-pin relay. I even took it with a block. It's quite inexpensive. But through these two contacts, I connect the light bulb already in place directly next to the gate.

Time relay

What do we have left? We have one last interesting task left. We need to ensure that after a certain time, each of these relays turns off. In order not to press the same button several times. For this purpose I will use two time relay modules. These are simple modules, they cost about 135 rubles each and are located here.

So here I have the time relay modules located. And their designation is FC-32. I also ordered them on Ali Express. Let this be time relay 1, and this will be time relay 2. Accordingly, our first time relay will be responsible for turning off the gate after opening. And the second relay will be responsible for turning off the drives after closing. In the diagram they look like this, in this place. First and second relays. There are contact groups here. There are two contacts here and two contacts here. And here, respectively, are three, and here are three.

I also want to draw your attention to the fact that the modules themselves have these variable resistors, which are responsible for point-by-point time adjustment. And the corresponding jumpers, which are installed in a certain way, are responsible for the time switching ranges. By setting them in the desired mode, I ensure that each of these relays operates exactly after a certain period of time. Well, in this case, I have the maximum set here to 1 minute here, and 1 minute here. That is, the time after which power will no longer be supplied to the drives in any case is equal to one minute. This time can be set to any time, both for opening and closing.

How I connected them. Here we have a negative signal coming from the power supply - minus. I'm connecting it. The front contact group has two contacts - plus and minus. Accordingly, here is the first minus and for the second - here.

In addition, the minus must be applied to the second contact group, which is located on the other side. Here we have three contacts. And the second relay also has three contacts. Therefore, we apply a minus to the extreme contact here, and to the extreme contact here.

As you probably already guessed, these modules will be powered from the corresponding pulse relays. Let's diagram this. So, when we turn on the first relay responsible for opening, then this positive signal from contact 4 should also go to the input of the pulse relay responsible for opening. Therefore, we bifurcate it like this and apply this positive signal to the left contact of the front contact group. Accordingly, for the second time relay we take the control signal from here. We take this plus from the relay, which is responsible for closing. Like this.

So here we have a plus, here we also have a plus. The contact groups on this side of the time relay have three groups: first, second and third. The first and second, when power is not supplied to this relay, they are normally closed. It’s the same here, a normal closed state. But when the power is already supplied, when the timer is triggered, the second and third are closed. That is, the situation here is now normally open. And here it’s the same thing – normally open.

What else should we connect? We must connect the second contacts in each time relay to the corresponding relay inputs, which are responsible for blocking. This is 87 contacts. That is, we will now take the second contact of the time relay output and connect it to the 87th contact of the opening blocking relay. And we will connect the second contact of the second time relay to contact 87 of the closing blocking relay. This is how I'll draw it.

How does the circuit work with these two time relays? So, we launch the first mode - press the button and open the gate. The gates are opened and the first impulse relay is triggered. At the 4th output of this relay we have a permanent plus. Along this branch, it comes to the time relay, which is again responsible for opening and this relay starts. It starts and counts down the time in one minute.

You can adjust the time to your liking as you like. I experimentally came to the conclusion that the maximum time that I need for the gate to fully open or close, especially in winter, is exactly one minute. In one minute the following will happen. Normally closed contacts 1 and 2 in the first relay open, and 2 and 3 close. On contact 3 we have a minus. This minus will go according to the diagram and will come to contact 87 of the opening blocking relay. This contact in the free state is closed to pin 30. The signal will go further and the negative signal will arrive at the opening pulse relay, thereby stopping its operation.

At the output, we will again get two pluses and the electric motors will stop. And at the same time, the voltage will be removed from these relays. The same goes for closing. We click on the “close” button. Our signal comes to the closing impulse relay. We remove the plus from the 4th contact of this relay, it goes to the corresponding second time relay and starts the timer. Our timer is again set to 1 minute. After a minute, contacts 1 and 2 open, and contacts 2 and 3 close. Accordingly, this minus goes to this branch, which is connected to contact 87 of the closing blocking relay. Through contact 30, closed with 87, the signal is sent to the pulse relay responsible for closing, and this pulse relay stops working. The plus disappears here again. And the polarity change circuit again has the same sign - two pluses, and again these two electric motors stop working. This is the logic of work provided by my scheme.

I hope you are not too tired of my detailed story.

Part 3

This is the third part of a video about do-it-yourself automatic swing gates. In the previous two parts, I reviewed and looked at the circuit diagram in detail. In this part you will find the device of drives and limit switches.

To open the gate, the mechanism of an ordinary VAZ jack is used, costing 500 rubles. The movable rod of this jack moves along a long screw when the handle is rotated.

Depending on the direction of rotation, the rod will move up or down. The intensity of movement determines the speed of movement of the rod. Now I will open the lid to show in detail the structure of this jack. As you can see, there is a gear inside. For our purposes, the handle and gears must be removed. To replace the lower gear with a screw, it is advisable to install a bearing of a suitable diameter. And on this side, after the screw, we will install an adapter on the gearbox shaft.

Features of gear motor

To drive the jack screw, I used the most common, simplest and cheapest windshield wiper motor gearbox from VAZ. I only use two wires - plus and minus. When the polarity changes, the gear motor changes direction of rotation.

Here is the axis of this gear motor, which we must attach to the screw.

Its shaft makes about 60 revolutions per minute. You can use other, more expensive gear motors with higher speeds. It is in this plane that these two nodes need to be joined.

For double-leaf swing gates, we will need two identical gear motors at once. I would like to warn you right away that in the domestic automotive industry, gear motors even from the same batch can have different rotation speeds. I have not yet been able to explain this paradox to myself. Please note that on this motor I have already installed two nuts.

They will somewhat strengthen the axis of this gear motor. And through them I will transfer the forces through the adapter to the top of the jack. As a result, we should have a design like this. Now I will explain how it works. I already inserted a profile square pipe with a side of 20 millimeters into the jack; a hole was drilled at the end for connection to the gate leaves. The square pipe itself is connected to the jack screw and, as it rotates, moves inward or outward.

On the other side you see a platform for mounting the gear motor. It is made in the form of a plate with holes. This is where the gear motor is attached using bolts. Its axle with nuts fits exactly into the adapter, which I made from a suitable socket wrench.

When the gear motor is turned on, rotation is transmitted through the adapter to the jack screw. The jack screw rotates and moves the square pipe I inserted outward or inward. Accordingly, this entire structure either lengthens or shortens during operation, which ensures the opening and closing of the valves. And at the same time, this design is quite rigid and strong, which is necessary for working in harsh wind conditions.

I also installed several corners on the drive housing, to which I will attach a decorative cover to protect it from atmospheric precipitation. There is a large hole drilled into the back of the drive for a pin or bolt that will secure the drive to the post.

For this design, it is better to make a small plastic cover to protect it from precipitation. The second drive is made in exactly the same way.

Features of the limit switches

And now I will tell you how the limit switches will work. These limit switches are connected to these two motors. Here you see the alarm.

Please note that here we have a plus and a minus. This minus goes right here and immediately goes to one motor, and to the second motor. That is, from here, he immediately goes at them. The second contact goes here, and goes for the first motor - here are two limit switches (connected via a diode), and for the second motor (also two diodes). They are connected differently and connected through two terminals. And it goes to the second motor, that is, this is one motor, and this one goes to the second motor. That is, they work separately.

Let's take a look now. So, we have everything on, zero voltage. Turn it on and open the gate. Now our engines are working. Our voltage is 12 volts. Now let's look. And so we look after the engines. I close the first contact - the limit switch closes only one motor. Now we look at the bottom one. I close it - it doesn't work. Now we close both - here and here. That's it, they both don't work because I shorted them both. Now I let go here, and then I let go - and they work again.

If I close the other limit switches, then nothing happens. What's here, what's here. Notice that nothing happens. Because they are spinning counterclockwise now. Now I'm stopping the scheme. I have zero here. And now I'm starting to close. They now spin clockwise. And now, in order for me to stop them, I have to close these lower ones. Closed and opened. Same thing below. We close both now - I close here, and I close here, and they both stop working.

I closed them all. Now I open them and they work again. We check the first limit switches. We close - nothing, no effect. Because there are diodes here and these diodes only pass current in one direction. Therefore, this limit switch is only for closing, and this one is only for opening. Here's the diagram.

Current limits

Now let's see how much current this circuit has. Ammeter here. We're turning it all on now. Now the engines are working, everything is blinking. And there are two and a half amps here. This whole circuit is for two and a half amperes.

Now I am stopping one contact. That is, we only have one motor spinning. The current here is 1.2 amperes.

Now I want to show the principle by which the limit switches will work. As you can see, they are installed here, here is the one limit switch, and here is the second limit switch installed.

That is, this plank – it moves. Moves here and will turn off here.

Let's see. So she went and freed this trailer.

He freed himself. Now she is heading in this direction towards this end stop. The motor is still running. Here she is approaching the end point. That's it, the engine is stopped, it doesn't turn over. And even if I press this button now, the motor does not work, does not start. Here I am, there is no effect.

Now let's try to close it. Now it is not working - we are closing it. So he went the other way. That's it, the engine no longer turns, everything has stopped. On this drive, the limit switches are located here, like this.

Here she is walking slowly. The second limit switch is here and here. Everything ends with a special fork. With a sealed fork, we can open it. Here it is completely sealed so that if anything happens, we can remove the drive completely.

This concludes my story about the miraculous transformation of ordinary gates into automatic ones with a budget of 5 thousand rubles.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

1. Gate trim:

The cladding can be made of wood, metal, polycarbonate, or a forged structure.

To ensure that the choice of material is correct, the following nuances should be taken into account:

Gates made of corrugated sheets and other metal structures have a number of advantages, they are lightweight and affordable, the material is available in a wide range of structures and shades, but in terms of aesthetic characteristics they will not suit everyone;
Forged gates are chic, but they will cost a pretty penny, although they will undoubtedly last you the longest.

In summer cottages more often you can see the swing doors wooden gate . To extend their service life, the wood is pre-treated with special compounds and placed in a metal frame. I propose to consider the option of making swing gates from the lightest material – profiled sheet.

2. Material options for the frame:

Metal, welded construction- the most reliable and durable option, perfect for heavy cladding materials and non-automatic gates I advise you to choose it.
Metal frame with bolts- easier to build, unlike the previous one, but be prepared that this design is not as durable.
Aluminum and other light metals- can be used Only for gates with light cladding! this is the very case when the use of such material can ONLY be caused by the choice of a professional (usually for automatic gates).
Wooden gate frame- a classic, morally outdated, but a classic. Everything is simple here: if you want it yourself and quickly - wood, no - metal. It won't last long, you'll suffer!

3. Posts for swing gates:

Wooden pillars - easy to use and inexpensive material. The disadvantage is that they are not durable, and heavy metal gates cannot be hung on them properly :)
Brick pillars- about 10 years ago they were considered an indicator of status and were used where they were not needed. They look beautiful, but concrete ones are in no way inferior to them, and are even superior in durability. They can hold quite a lot of weight, I advise you to build brick pillars inside around metal ones (cover them with bricks), welding hinges and other structural elements to the metal core pillar.
Asbestos pillars- an easy-to-use, finished product (sometimes they are mistaken for concrete), better than wooden ones, but in my opinion significantly inferior to metal ones.
Concrete pillars- reinforced concrete is massive, noble and, unlike brick, can easily be redecorated. If you want the pillars to be not only a structural element, but also part of the fence design, I advise you to choose this option.
Metal poles- For light structures, they are simply installed in the ground, but even for not the heaviest gates, you should use a concrete foundation at least 20 centimeters away from the post and at least a meter deep (ideally one and a half, the depth of soil freezing in our climate zone), so that when it gets wet there was no soil around the pillars.
Metal poles on a concrete or brick base- a fairly common hybrid (a strip foundation protruding 30 centimeters or more above the ground and pillars protruding from it), both aesthetically pleasing and economical, and the upper part of the fence and gate can be quite “light”.