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Do-it-yourself swimming pool at the dacha: options, preparation and installation step by step. How to build a pool at the dacha with your own hands from a ready-made bowl. Economy pool at the dacha with your own hands.

A pool at the dacha becomes an indispensable attribute. They can be large, small, concrete, inflatable, frame and so on. It often happens that you want to have a swimming pool in a suburban area, but you don’t have enough finances. It is in this case that it is worth turning on your imagination to its full potential and coming up with what available materials can be used for its construction. Thanks to this, you can build a pond on your site without spending a cent.

How to make a swimming pool at your dacha with your own hands from scrap materials

Using a shipping container is one of the most optimal options for building a pool on a summer cottage. It will be large enough to swim in. For a small pool, you can consider a huge tire bowl as the main material, which is used for heavy special equipment. A tree or a regular pit is suitable as a building material for a seasonal pool. The most optimal and durable option is concrete.

Shipping container

Of course, not everyone has such a thing, but still, for those who have it, you can breathe new life into it and build a pool out of it. Or you can purchase it. The price for it is small. Such a structure has many advantages:

First of all, it’s worth mentioning the price. This is a really cheap construction option.
Building a pool from a container will take a little time and will not cause any difficulties. There is no need to attract additional labor; everyone can handle all the work independently.
The metal frame of the container will make the future structure durable. The container will keep its shape and there is no need to dig a pit for it. You can simply place it on the ground and build a ladder to the top. The simplest and most budget option is a regular stepladder. The staircase can be attached to a metal frame by welding.
If you still decide to deepen it, then this can be done halfway. This way, you won't have to deal with complex excavation work.
It is quite easy to embed all communications into the container. Connecting all the necessary pipes can be done without using a welding machine.
At any time, the container pool can be moved to another location. Dismantling the structure is easy.

This container will be too big for children. Therefore, you can build a “paddling pool” for them from a container from a car.
Porcelain tiles will help make such a pool attractive from the inside, and if you build a wooden formwork, from which you take steps and make a place for changing clothes under them, then the structure will turn into a real masterpiece.

The container can be decorated to your liking. It all depends on the owner’s imagination. It can turn into a real swimming complex if you try.

Check the container carefully if it is old. It may have cracks and holes. They need to be sealed. It is also necessary to carefully examine it for the presence of rust. If one is found, the container must be thoroughly cleaned, coated with primer and mastic, and covered with waterproofing.

Tire

The wheels of heavy special equipment (tractor, combine harvester or truck) have large and heavy tires. They can be used to build a wonderful pool for children. Financial investments for such construction are practically reduced to zero.

Such a pool has a number of advantages. For example, you already have the walls of the pool ready, that is, the water tank is almost completely ready. The thick rubber that makes up the wheel is capable of holding water perfectly. In addition, the tire will last a very long time and is not afraid of temperature changes.

The main disadvantage of such a pool is its small size. That is why it will most likely be more suitable for children, since adults will not be interested in it.

Nitro paint dries very quickly. In order to transform the surface, it is enough to apply just one layer. The enamel is applied in two layers. Painting the surface with an aerosol, of which there are a large number of shades on the market, is also quite simple.
By choosing oil paint, you will get an opaque and durable paint job. And if you add a little 40 percent laundry soap to it, the surface can be made matte (0.1 kilograms per 3 liters).

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most affordable building materials. It is made from crushed stone, gravel, sand, cement and water. Using the tips described below, building a concrete pool at your dacha will not be difficult. There are some economical options for such construction.

Experts recommend not starting to build a complex large pool if you do not have any construction experience. It is better to practice a little first and build a small simple reservoir or pond. To build it, you will need to do the same work as to build a large pool. Just in a smaller volume.

Advantages of a concrete pool

Durability is one of the main trump cards of such a structure.
If you use high-quality building materials during construction, the resulting structure will be very durable.
Such a pool can be placed both inside the house and in the area around the house.
Finishing work for a concrete pool can be done using completely different materials: ceramics, mosaics or decorative plaster.
Composite products sold on the market are much more expensive than a concrete pool.

Disadvantages of a concrete pool

If the spillway or water supply system is installed incorrectly, the water supply will have to be completely redone.
If the sealing is done poorly or low-quality building materials are used, water leakage may occur.
If finishing technologies are not followed, the decoration elements may fall off.
Mold can form in your pool if you don't care for it and clean it regularly.

Before you start building a pool, carefully analyze your strengths. This process requires a lot of time and effort.
You can always turn to specialists for help.

Building a concrete pool

In general, there is nothing complicated in the construction work of constructing a concrete pool. You just need to find time to study all the nuances and directly to the construction itself.

Wooden container or pit for a seasonal pool

At the end of the summer season, the water from the pool must be removed and the waterproofing material removed for the winter. A unique tub or tub can be designed with your own hands. The surface of the made tub must be covered with waterproofing material and secured along the edges.

There is an alternative. You can dig a pit. Thus, the pool can be made of any shape. To do this, compact the walls and bottom of the pit thoroughly and cover it with waterproofing material. To do this, use a special film or tarpaulin. Cover the waterproofing with a margin of at least 50 centimeters. The material is secured with wooden blocks or pebbles. To prevent the waterproofing from rising, sprinkle it with a 10-centimeter layer of sand.

If the angle of inclination of the pit is steep, then soil spillage cannot be avoided.

To remove such a pool when the season is over, first drain it, then sweep away the sand and remove the waterproofing.

Wooden pallets as pool material

Wooden pallets can be an excellent material for building a pool. Their size and shape are perfect for building pond walls. By increasing the number of pallets, the pool can be made more round. Most often, there are enough pieces for its construction. It can accommodate from one to six people. This pool has its advantages:

It has fairly high sides, so the volume of water will be quite large.
A staircase or slide can be added to it without any problems.
The structure does not require digging a deep pit.
Mobile pool. If necessary, you can either remove it altogether or move it to a new location at any time.
The main material of the structure is wood, which is known to be an environmentally friendly raw material.
If one of the sections is damaged, it can easily be replaced with a new one. To do this, simply drain the water.

If we talk about the disadvantages of this option, then they also have their place. The wooden structure of the pool must be strengthened. This can be done using a textile tie-down strap or stops. Another nuance of the construction of such a pool is its mandatory finishing. Well, in the end, wood is an easily perishable material. It requires special treatment with special impregnations against fungus.

To create this design, purchase:

Shovel and bayonet shovels.
Hammer.
Screwdriver.
Concrete mixing machine.
Containers where you can store garbage, water and concrete.
Jigsaw.
Grinding machine or sandpaper.
Roulette.
Rope and pegs.
Large size square.
Level and plumb.
Pliers.
Fastening elements (screws and nails).

Construction works

Stock up on a sufficient number of pallets measuring 1.2x0.9 meters. First of all, it is necessary to treat all wooden elements with antifungal impregnations. Then dig a round pit, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the future pool. Level the bottom of the hole and evenly fill it with a layer of gravel of at least 200 millimeters. Inside the pit, construct the skeleton of the future pool, turning the solid part of the pallet into the pool. The pallets themselves are connected to each other by boards that are fastened along the side of the future reservoir. To strengthen the structure, secure the bars at the joints with self-tapping screws.

Make holes in the frame for the drainage system.

Insert pipes into them through which water will be supplied to and drained from the pool. The finished structure must be additionally secured with two tightening straps.

To further strengthen the frame, drive wooden wedges in between the joints of the pallets.

Now you need to pour a 100-millimeter layer of concrete mixture onto the bottom and give it 5–7 days to harden. After this, you can start waterproofing the pool. For this purpose, PVC film is used.

To hide the not-so-attractive areas of the frame from the front side, you can trim it with OSB boards. Decoration is carried out depending on the taste preferences of the owner. The fastest way to do this is with rolls of reeds.

Plastic bottles as a building material

It would seem, how can such incompatible things be combined? It turns out that anything is possible. Skilled dreamers and summer residents have figured out how to use plastic bottles to their advantage.

A pool made from plastic bottles has its advantages. First of all, it is accessible material. Almost every day we receive used bottles. Moreover, their cost is a pittance. Plastic itself is a waterproofing material, since moisture does not penetrate through it and does not spoil it. The undoubted advantage of a plastic pool is its durability. And, of course, you can build a pond of any size and shape from this material.

The only downside to using plastic bottles as pool building material is that in order for them to hold their shape, each one needs to be filled with sand. And it will take a lot of it.

To carry out construction work, you will need almost the same tools as in the previous case.

It is more convenient to dig a pit for a large pool using a mini-excavator.

Construction works

Select the location where the future pool will be located. The smoother it is, the less work you will have to prepare it. Clear it of debris and vegetation.
Installing a slab foundation for this type of pool would be best.
Dig a hole 4x2 meters. Its depth should be 15 centimeters. Level the bottom and compact it.
Build a sand cushion that needs to be moistened and compacted well. The layer should be 15 centimeters. You can pour gravel on top.
Build a formwork where the concrete will be poured. To do this, use wooden boards. Its width should be 200–250 millimeters.
The next stage is the construction of a lattice from 8 mm reinforcement. The size of the grid cells is 100X100 millimeters, and the total area is 8 square meters. Secure the intersections of the rods with wire.
Place the reinforcement frame on the bottom. It should not come into contact with sand. To lay it like this, place several halves of bricks on the bottom.
Then it is necessary to install all pipes and communications.
Pour the concrete solution and level it using a rule or a long, level board.
Leave the concrete for a week to harden.
After this, you can begin to build walls from bottles.
Fill each bottle with sand and close the lid.
Apply cement strip. It should be equal to the height of the plastic container.
The connecting link between the rows will be a reinforcement frame made of 0.3 mm rods. The dimensions of this frame should be equal to the strip of bottles.
Place bottles of sand on the cement and fill all the cracks with concrete mortar.
After laying the first row, fill the bottles with cement and place the reinforcement cage on top.
Remove the formwork and continue laying out the bottles as described above until the height of the pool reaches the planned point.
Leave everything until completely hardened.
When the structure has hardened, plaster it.
Creating a reliable waterproofing layer will help you cover the inner surface of the pool with bitumen.
The final stage of work is giving it an aesthetic appearance. PVC film is laid inside. Exterior decoration is left to the taste preferences of the owner.

Care and operation

A pool located in the fresh air is always exposed to dirt, branches and leaves. To prevent this from happening, it is covered with a special cover with a fine mesh. If the pool is small, you can make your own cover from vine branches to cover it when not in use. If, nevertheless, debris gets into the water, it can be removed with a special juice, and algae growths can be removed with a brush.

Don't neglect changing the water. It is best to do this every 2-3 days. Water does not have to be disposed of aimlessly. At your dacha you probably have plants that need watering. Use this water for them.

For watering plants, water that has not been subjected to chemical treatment is suitable.

The bottom of the reservoir can be treated with a vacuum cleaner.

You must remember that the lifespan of the pool directly depends on how you care for it. If you do not want it to become an ugly, bad-smelling swamp, then do not neglect this event.

Methods of water purification (table)

Name	Description
Physical	This is the easiest way. The one mentioned a little above. It is characterized by the use of juices, a vacuum cleaner, and brushes. The installation of water filters can also be attributed to this cleaning method. Filters come in sand, cartridge and diatomaceous earth. The main component of the first is quartz. It is crushed into small particles. Water passes through these particles and is purified. This filter is the most budget-friendly. Most often it is installed in inflatable pools. The second option purifies water better, but is also more expensive. The filter element in it is cartridges that have a cylindrical shape. The latter option is made from compressed plates, which are made from the remains of fossil microorganisms. This filter purifies water best, and its price is the highest.
Chemical	Special water purification products are used. They disinfect water, maintain a normal pH level, and remove the smallest dirt and grease particles that filters cannot handle. Plus, thanks to this method of purification, algae will not grow in the water.
Electrophysical	This method uses ozonizers, ultraviolet rays and equipment that releases silver and copper ions. Chemical cleaning is not necessary in this case. No one will have an allergic reaction from this cleaning method. There will be no smell. This method is the most effective.

Photo gallery: pools made from scrap materials

With the right approach, use and good imagination, scrap materials can turn into a wonderful pool
The concrete pool can be decorated
The pool will be a wonderful attribute of the children's playground Some approach this issue with humor Children will enjoy splashing in the water on hot summer days And if the container is refined and decorated, then relaxation will be doubly pleasant A pool made from an old container can be quite spacious. You can give new life to an old bathroom The walls of the pool can also be made of bricks Having a swimming pool on your property will make relaxing at your dacha much more enjoyable

Video: building a pool

Building a swimming pool at your dacha can be a completely inexpensive process. If you correctly use the materials you already have on hand, you can build a wonderful recreation area for yourself and your loved ones. On hot summer days, the cool water in the pool will bring you great pleasure. Good luck!

A swimming pool in a summer cottage is no longer a luxury item. After all, you can do it yourself. If you have the necessary funds, you can buy a pond for recreation. However, a person who is a little familiar with construction work will be able to equip such a structure without the involvement of specialists.

First you need to figure out what types of such reservoirs exist, and also learn about the pros and cons of each of them.

All pools can be divided into two types:

frame;
foundation pits

Such pools are either located above the surface of the earth, or at least slightly protrude above it. Their distinctive feature is the presence of a frame. It is very convenient for moving and dismantling for the winter.

The disadvantage of frame structures is that they are very expensive. Although some craftsmen can make them themselves.

pit

To build it, you need to purchase concrete and waterproofing materials. The disadvantages of this design are that it cannot be dismantled. Another disadvantage is the large volume of excavation work. You will have to dig a pit with an area of about 16 square meters.

pit

Instructions:

The last stage of work will be decorating the pool with decorative finishes. If you plan to install a ladder, it is better to design it in advance. It is installed around the time the walls are poured. You can also make a covering around an artificial pond. Most often these are different tiles.

Polypropylene

A polypropylene pool will require more effort and expense than a conventional concrete structure. However, it has a whole host of advantages. It is known that when constructing such structures, the biggest problem is waterproofing. Polypropylene is the ideal material. It has increased strength and durability. This material can be given any shape.

A polypropylene structure can be constructed in two ways:

Buy a polypropylene bowl of the desired size and shape and install it in the pit.
Buy sheet polypropylene and make a bowl out of it yourself.

Making a polypropylene bowl yourself will cost approximately the same as a purchased one, because in this case the master will have to buy a special tool for polyfusion thermal welding - an extruder. In addition, you will also have to first learn how to weld sheets and make a ladder.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence.

First you need to dig a pit, the dimensions of which must exceed the dimensions of the bowl.
After this, you need to put waterproofing on the bottom and fill it with concrete.
The finished bowl is installed in place. If the bowl needs to be boiled, this can be done directly next to the installation site.
After installing the bowl, you need to install the bottom drain, skimmer and nozzles.
The next stage is insulating the pool around the edges. You can use polystyrene foam for this.
It is better to tie some walls with stiffeners.
The pipes also need to be insulated and covered with regular tape just in case.
A water filtration device must be installed next to the structure. It can be installed, for example, in the basement of a house.
After all communications are connected, concreting can begin. To prevent the solution from damaging the polypropylene, it is necessary to install internal formwork in the bowl. This ensures that all sides of the structure are smooth and beautiful. The pouring itself is carried out in layers of 30–35 cm in height per day. This is the optimal mode for filling a pit. To prevent the concrete from damaging the bowl, you can also use water in addition to the formwork. For example, when pouring the next layer of solution, you need to add water to the same level in the bowl. The work will take about a week on average.

Filling should be done slowly. It is better to divide the process into several stages.

Once the concrete has hardened, you can lay out tiles or other materials to give it an aesthetic appearance.

Polypropylene pools are gaining popularity today, although several years ago this technology was unknown in Russia.

Video

Photo

If finances allow, you can order a turnkey pool of any type: polypropylene, plastic, composite, frame.

Not every summer resident is lucky enough to have his own house near a pond, where after physical work he can relax and enjoy cool water. The rest have to either get into the car and go in search of the nearest river, or make a pool with their own hands at the dacha. More often they choose the second option, because in addition to relaxation, the pool also provides side benefits:

warm, settled water, which can be used to water flower beds and vegetable gardens (if you did not add chemical disinfectants to the pool!);
the opportunity to switch children who are keen on tablets, mobile phones and laptops to a healthier vacation;
improvement of the body, etc.

All that remains is to choose from the many options for stationary pools the one that suits the needs of the family and the landscape of the site.

To simplify the maintenance of your built pool, consider the following points already at the planning stage:

It is better if the pool area has clay soil. It will stop water leakage in case of waterproofing failures.
Choose a place with a natural slope of the soil. This will make it easier for you to dig a pit and immediately decide where to install the drainage system.
Tall trees should not grow near the future pool, because their root system, sensing the proximity of moisture, will reach the walls of the structure and can ruin the waterproofing. Poplar, chestnut, and willow are considered the most “aggressive”. If there are already trees growing on the site, you will have to part with them in advance. It's cheaper than rebuilding a damaged pool.
Low-growing trees are also undesirable, because you will have to constantly remove leaves from the bowl, and during the flowering period the water turns yellow with pollen.
Pay attention to which direction the wind most often blows at your dacha, and try to place the pool so that the air moves along the bowl. Then all the dirt and debris will be nailed to one wall, along the edges of which it is recommended to install a drain system.
Try to locate the pool closer to the water supply to make it easier to fill.

Preliminary calculations - sizing

The width and length are determined based on the purpose of the pool. If it is intended for swimming, then choose a rectangular shape, making the bowl elongated. If for relaxation, splashing and resting the whole family, then it is more convenient to communicate in round bowls.

A more important criterion is depth. It is believed that in order to feel free, swim easily, turn around under water and jump from the side, you need a depth of one and a half meters (and no more!). But ski jumping requires a deeper bowl - at least 2.3 m. However, it is enough to make such a depth in the diving area, creating a smooth transition from the main size (1.5 m).

If the construction of a swimming pool at the dacha is intended exclusively for children's recreation, then the depth of the bowl should not exceed half a meter. This is enough for fun games and wallowing without risk to health.

The most complex design is a combined pool in which everyone will swim. In this case, different depths are created for the children's and adult zones, and both zones must be separated by a strong partition that starts from the very bottom. This will ensure that children do not accidentally enter the adult area.

Important! In any pool that has several different depths, it is necessary to make the bottom flat and smoothly transition from one size to another. Sudden changes in depth are unacceptable for safety reasons. A person, walking along the bottom, can gape and miss the boundary beyond which another depth begins, and in a panic, when his legs instantly go down, the risk of choking is very high.

Choosing a bowl: buy ready-made or make it yourself?

The most labor-intensive work involves preparing the pit and filling the bowl. But manufacturers have figured out how to build a swimming pool in a country house faster and easier. They created ready-made bowls that only need to be dug into the ground and fixed. In addition to the obvious advantage of ease of installation, ready-made structures are also advantageous in that they come in all sorts of shapes and colors, which cannot be said about concrete. In addition, during operation, concrete bowls may crack if the soil begins to move.

Types of finished bowls: plastic and composite

There are two types of ready-made bowls on sale: plastic and composite. The principle of their installation is absolutely the same. Only the technical characteristics of the materials differ.

A plastic bowl requires additional insulation of the pool walls from the outside

In plastic structures, the main material is polypropylene. It is not afraid of fading, does not require draining water for the winter, is environmentally friendly, and is resistant to mechanical stress. And the smooth surface prevents the formation of plaque and sediment on the walls and bottom. Such bowls do not require additional interior finishing because they look aesthetically pleasing. The only negative: if the pool is installed in a place where there is no shade, then in the heat the polypropylene can expand, causing the bottom and walls to “ripple.” But as soon as the temperature drops, the bowl takes on its normal appearance.

Composite bowls are made of fiberglass, which is not afraid of either frost or heat.

Composite structures do not have this problem. The main material in them is fiberglass, which is bonded with polymer resins. All the advantages characteristic of plastic bowls are also characteristic of this material. But there is a small “but”: the composite is quite expensive.

DIY bowl options

And yet, some summer residents still prefer bowls that are created on site, because you cannot always find a container with the size and shape that ideally suits a specific landscape, and very large pools (about 10 m in length) cause difficulties in transportation. The vast majority of owners make swimming pools for their summer cottages with their own hands from concrete. This material is always on sale. If it is impossible to deliver it to the site in the form of a liquid solution, an ordinary concrete mixer is installed and a mixture is created on site with the addition of sand.

A bowl made of polystyrene foam blocks is easy to install due to the lightness of the material and perfectly maintains the water temperature

It is possible to create the entire bowl from concrete, including the walls, but this requires a long time and a lot of labor to install the formwork and pour it.

Resourceful summer residents came up with a simpler design for a swimming pool at their dacha: they kept only the bottom concrete, and began making the walls from polystyrene foam blocks or steel sheets. In the first option, the pool turns out to be warm, since polystyrene foam has low thermal conductivity. Steel walls are very easy to install, as they are sold ready-made with all additional equipment in the form of facing film and mounting hardware.

Installation of a swimming pool with a finished bowl

Let's look at how to make a swimming pool at your dacha using a factory-made bowl.

Site marking

We carefully measure the bowl delivered to the site.
We mark the location of the future pit on the ground using pegs and rope. We drive pegs into the corners of the future bowl, and stretch the rope between them. The more irregular the shape of the pool, the more often you drive in the pegs.
We step back a meter from the stretched rope and make marks along the entire perimeter (cut off the soil, hammer in new pegs, etc.). It is from this marking that you will begin to dig the pit. This reserve is needed to make it easier to lower the bowl, insulate its walls and create a solid foundation.
We remove the internal markings and start digging a pit.

Excavation

The pool pit must have a flat and stable bottom, so it is concreted

The pit should be half a meter deeper than the size of the bowl itself. Now we create a base on which we will place the bowl:

Spread the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of coarse sand and compact it.
We lay a metal mesh over the sand for a fortress and pour concrete mortar over it, 25 centimeters thick. We wait until it dries.

The concrete layer used to fill the bottom must be reinforced so that it does not crack when the soil moves

After this we insulate the pool:

We lay geotextiles over the entire concrete base, and three-centimeter slabs of expanded polystyrene on it. They will insulate the bottom of the pool from the cold ground.
Lay a thick, durable film over the insulation.
While the bowl is at the top, its walls should be insulated. The outer surface of the walls is “packed” in polystyrene foam and insulated with polyethylene.

The outer walls of the bowl are insulated with polystyrene foam to insulate them from cold ground

Installing the bowl and connecting communications

We lower the prepared bowl to the bottom of the pit.
We connect all the necessary communications to the bowl. We put a protective sleeve on the pipes and fix it with tape so that it does not move during concreting.

Spacers will prevent the bowl from bending when the concrete reinforcement of the pool is poured; And all pipes must be packed in a protective sleeve so that they do not freeze in winter

We concrete the remaining voids between the soil and the walls of the pool as follows:

We install spacers inside the bowl so that the plastic or composite does not bend under the pressure of the concrete mass;
We put up the formwork and lay reinforcement around the perimeter;
We do not pour the solution all at once, but in layers: we fill the pool with 30-40 cm of water and raise the concrete to the same height. We wait for it to harden, then water again - and after that concrete. This way we bring the concrete layer to the surface of the soil.
We wait a day until the pouring hardens and only then remove the formwork.
We fill the voids from the formwork with sand, pouring it with water and compacting it.

All that remains is to decorate the pool area and fill it with water.

For outdoor pools, it is advisable to create a canopy roof that will protect you from dirty precipitation, or at least sew an awning with which you will cover the structure when you leave the dacha.

If installing swimming pools at your dacha seems like a difficult task, buy an inflatable or frame version. Such pools are quite suitable for water recreation, and for the winter you can easily disassemble them and hide them in the attic.

For many summer residents, a swimming pool is a dream. But, as practice shows, it is quite possible to do it on your own and with small funds. Sometimes very small. But the pool at the dacha is useful for both children and adults: the water perfectly relieves fatigue and nervous tension.

Swimming pool for a summer residence: types and features

All pool designs can be divided into two large groups: stationary and temporary. Stationary structures include all structures partially or completely dug into the ground, which cannot be moved without destruction. The bowls of such pools are made of monolithic concrete, brick, and sometimes concrete blocks are used in construction. They can use a polymer liner (plastic bowl) or provide waterproofing using film or coating waterproofing materials.

Temporary pools are mainly inflatable and frame. They differ in that they are installed in the spring, and in the fall they are rolled up and hidden.

Which swimming pool is better for a summer residence? If you are not yet sure whether you need such an “attraction” on your site or not, buy the cheapest and fastest to install: inflatable. It holds water due to the inflated ring. The disadvantage of such a pool is that it is not very deep: 1.2 meters including the sides is its limit.

But, if you want it for children, then you can’t think of anything better, and adults can “hang” on the wall and relax after “relaxing” at the dacha. Depending on the quality and intensity of use, it can last from a couple of years to four to five.

A frame pool is a little more expensive and a little more difficult to install. It already has a frame in the form of pipes, on which a special film in the form of a bowl is hung. The depth of such a pool is up to 1.8 m.

Stationary swimming pools are for those who have decided that they simply need a swimming pool at their dacha. Construction and maintenance are not cheap. First, a pit is dug, then a monolithic slab is poured, and in the second stage, the walls are erected. It is necessary to take measures to waterproof the walls outside - so that underground and melt water do not penetrate into the bowl. Next comes insulation of the walls. If this is not done, heating the water will be problematic. After this, a set of measures begins to waterproof the walls inside the bowl, and then finishing work begins.

But the finished bowl is not the entire permanent pool. It is necessary to clean the water: leaves, dust and debris fall into it, bacteria and algae multiply. To bring the water into order, you need a pump, a filter system, chemical reagents, and also means for “scooping out” leaves and sediment from the bottom. Some equipment is also needed to maintain a temporary pool, but since the volumes are smaller, you can often get by with manual cleaning or water replacement, or you can use improvised means. And if there is at least 5-6 tons of water in a stationary pool (this is a small 2*3 bowl with a depth of 1.4 meters), then even such a volume is problematic to manually clean.

Installation of a frame pool at the dacha

Regardless of whether you are going to install an inflatable or frame pool, you need to prepare a site for it. These pools can be buried a little in the ground, or they can be placed on a prepared site. It doesn't matter. It is important that the surface is level and a lawn is not the best option, even if it is level. The grass under the bottom begins to decompose, and the appearance of the area after the pool is removed is very pathetic.

At the dacha they installed an Esprit Big swimming pool with a diameter of 450 cm and a wall height of 130 cm. It was decided to bury it almost halfway. So what did they do? We started by preparing the pit:

A frame or inflatable pool can be placed on such a base. This pool design has a metal frame wall and support posts that are attached from the outside. It is advisable to insulate the part of the walls buried in the ground. You also need insulation on the bottom: so that the water heats up faster and does not cool down.

First, we lay out a U-shaped profile at the bottom into a ring. Then we take out the metal side, lower it into the pit (one person can’t handle it - it’s hard), unwind it, put the bottom edge into the unfolded profile, and connect it. The operation is simple, everything is clear: in the right place the sheet is connected into a ring.

Next, we take the EPS and lay it out on the bottom of the pool, cutting off the edges, trying to keep the gaps minimal. After laying out the polystyrene, the joints and edges were sprinkled with sand (according to the instructions). Why was polystyrene foam chosen rather than the much cheaper foam? The foam will be flattened under the weight of water, and the effect of such insulation will be zero. EPS can withstand heavy loads, although it is expensive.

Next, we bring the film liner inside, more or less straighten it, and temporarily attach it to the sides with tape. Next, we start swimming))) Pour a little water to the bottom - 10-15 centimeters, straighten the folds on the bottom, trying to keep everything even. Then gradually adding water. We level the film on the walls.

Note - it is better to carry out the work on a sunny, warm day, and not only because the “swimmer” is cold. In the sun, the film softens, making it easier to straighten. We worked without the sun - wrinkles remained, although this did not affect the pleasure of swimming.

After the water procedures, stiffening ribs were installed on the outside, installing fixing strips along the upper edge of the pool. Next we started insulating the walls. In the photo above, laying of one layer began, but in general they laid two - 3 cm each. Thicker slabs are difficult to bend, but thin slabs are easy to bend. Therefore, the installation of polystyrene did not take much time.

Having installed the insulation, they began to fill the pit. Since ours is clay, we used native soil to prevent water from leaking under the walls. They poured a small layer, tamped it down, and so on until the top. One point: the bowl must be filled with water.

The instructions include a recommendation to make external supporting walls. In this case they were not made. The staircase was half buried, as it was designed to reach its full height, but here 65 cm was buried. They buried it to this depth from the outside. All that remains is the installation of equipment.

As recommended, the included filter and pump were installed. After connecting, it turned out that there was a small leak at the connection point. After partially draining the water and drying, the area is coated with sealant (neutral silicone moisture-resistant). The problem has disappeared.

Where was it dripping...

That's it. The swimming pool at the dacha is ready for use.

The model was chosen to be frost-resistant, so as not to put everything away for the winter. The bowl is covered with wooden shields.

If leaving something on the site is dangerous, you can buy another design. It's just a system of stands and a film liner hung on it. A pool looks like the one in the photo below; it is never buried, but installed on top.

Although in the photo he is simply standing on the lawn, this “feat” is not worth repeating. In addition to turning the lawn into a dirty mess, the soil sucks out all the heat. The swimming season with this setup is extremely short. Moreover, even in the heat in the morning the water is cold; children can swim only from lunch. In general, it is better to make an insulated deck under the pool. Its installation does not take much time and money, but using the pool is much more convenient.

The beginning is the same as described: a pit is being dug. Its depth is about 20-25 cm. First, pour crushed stone into the pit in a layer of 10 cm, compact it well. Lay out geotestile. It will prevent sand and gravel from mixing. On top of it is sand, which is also compacted. You can already install a pool on sand, but this is also not the best option. sand drags around the whole dacha, and cats also love to walk in it. Therefore, it is better to lay at least homemade concrete slabs, paving slabs on top, and sprinkle with pebbles, as in the photo.

You can also knock down a shield from wooden boards, but the boards must be sanded and treated with antibacterial impregnation. You can use WPC - wood-polymer composite. They definitely do not rot and are not afraid of water or frost. A swimming pool can be placed on such a foundation. But even in this case (except for a wooden platform), it will be difficult to warm up the water.

Insulation required. This is at least 10 cm of EPS, laid under the bottom and covered with geotextile - as a temporary option. For a permanent insulated platform, a deeper pit is required: increase the depth by 15 cm. The sequence of layers is as follows: crushed stone, geotextiles, sand - 10 cm, EPS - 10 cm, geotextiles, sand - 5 cm, paving slabs or slabs.

Inflatable pool at the dacha

Inflatable pools are placed on the same base. Only they are installed quite simply: take the pump and start pumping up the ring. When it is filled with air, water begins to be poured inside. The ring gradually floats up, raising the edges of the pool. When the entire wall is level, the pool can be considered installed.

Plastic pool: DIY installation

The easiest way to make a stationary outdoor pool at your dacha is from a plastic or composite (fiberglass) liner: a ready-made cast bowl. This is one of the easiest ways to make a stationary pool in your country house or near your house. A pit is dug under it, into which it is installed. One of the installation options is in the photo report.

The size of the selected plastic bowl is 183*415*140 cm. The simplest shape was chosen for easier installation. It all started with marking out the area for the foundation pit. The bowl was turned upside down, the contours were outlined, and 5 cm was added to the boards (the plan was to install it in a wooden frame). So they nailed down the pegs, pulled the twine, and started digging.

It was decided to leave part of the side outside, so the depth of the pit is 1 meter. A layer of sand about 15 cm is poured onto the bottom, everything is filled with water to compact the substrate.

While the water is draining, the sand dries up, and boards 2.5 cm thick are assembled to fit the dimensions of the pit. A 50*50 mm beam was used as a frame, and it was also placed on top of the boards. The upper edge of the plastic bowl was attached to this beam.

All boards are treated with an antiseptic for direct contact with the ground. The manufacturer promises 10 years without rot...

When all the walls were assembled and secured, the bowl was inserted inside. The bottom lay tightly, the height was calculated correctly.

There should be a reinforced concrete edge around the perimeter of the pool. To tie the bowl more tightly to the concrete, corners are installed around the perimeter. They are attached to the beam and the edge of the bowl through and through, with stainless bolts and nuts.

To prevent the plastic from “walking” during operation, we grab the edges with a clamp.

The fittings are attached to the installed corners. We used 15 mm, placed 4 rods: two on top and two on bottom. Knitted with special wire.

Formwork is installed around the perimeter. First, sand was poured under the reinforcement, so external shields were installed. The inside of the boards is covered with a thick film to make it easier to remove the formwork. Mortgages were also installed: overflow pipes. They will be placed outside the pool and will protect the bowl from overflowing.

Before pouring the concrete, they began to fill the bowl with water. This is necessary so that the concrete does not crush it. At the same time, the gaps remaining between the walls of the bowl and the plank frame were filled with sand. This means that the bowl is fixed in a better position. When it was almost filled, concrete was poured into the formwork and treated with a vibrator to increase strength and uniformity.

Four days later the formwork was removed. The side turned out to be 40 cm wide and the same height. Next, we begin to prepare the foundation for finishing the adjacent area.

Since the site is slightly sloping, soil had to be removed from one side. Sand is poured and compacted around the perimeter. Roofing material is rolled out over the leveled surface.

Another layer of sand was poured onto it, into which the paving slabs were laid. The cracks between the tiles are also filled with sand.

To prevent leaves from falling into the pool, debris and other contaminants from getting into the pool, a polycarbonate greenhouse was purchased, assembled and installed as a cover for the pool. It turned out that it was very convenient: warm and light.

You just need to fasten it firmly; a strong wind moved it from its place. I had to make adjustments. The pool at the dacha is also used in winter, but only after the bath - the ice hole is cut down)). For winter, empty bottles with screwed caps are thrown into the water. When water freezes, they serve as a damper, taking most of the load from the ice onto themselves.

And until late autumn we swim just like that, we just installed a water heating system to make it more or less comfortable.

Economy option: swimming pool from a banner

If you need an express option for a pool at minimal cost, you can get by with a thick film. For example, an old banner. The fabric used for them is thick, and you can buy an old one at an agency for mere pennies. If you need a pool in your garden, this is exactly the material: the costs are minimal.

So, armed with a banner, we dig a pit, which is significantly smaller in size than the canvas.

We lay the film in the dug pit and straighten it. For testing, a small pit was dug in case it wasn’t to his liking. Since the banners were old, after all, they laid two. They also tried to straighten the second one.

To prevent the edges of the film from being blown away by the wind, they were pressed down with bricks and a hose was thrown in to collect water.

While the water was being collected, a little earth was poured around the “bowl” under the film, forming sides. They were lined with bricks.

We left the “pool” to bask in the sun. Three hours later the tests were carried out. I liked the result. It was decided to expand the “swimming” part.

This, of course, is not a great option, but you can freshen up. It took 2 hours for “construction”. The main thing is to dig a pit. And what happens next is a matter of several tens of minutes. The photo below shows the same idea implemented on a larger scale. We bought the film for swimming pools and soldered two pieces together to create a more voluminous “sea”.

Here, by the way, are several country pools made from scrap materials: an excavator bucket and a huge tire.

A long-lasting pool at the dacha is easy))

Photos of country pools

An inflatable pool is a great option for children

Another option for a polycarbonate pool cover. Built using the same method as

An artificial pond can serve not only as an ideal place for relaxation, but also as a real decoration of the site. To build it, it is absolutely not necessary to invite specialists - you can make a small concrete bowl for the pool and reliable waterproofing for it yourself.

Choosing a location for the pool

Before starting construction, you should carefully consider the filling systems (it is more convenient to locate the reservoir closer to the water supply), cleaning and drainage of water. When choosing a place for a pool, you should be guided by the following rules:

It should not be placed next to trees: their roots will tend to water and can damage the waterproofing; in addition, fallen leaves will fall into it, and the heating of water in the shaded area will be slow;

To prevent heaving of frozen wet soil from damaging the pool bowl, the pit should be placed in an area with the deepest groundwater; it is better if it is a clay area: clay does not allow water to pass through well, and if the waterproofing is partially damaged, the water from the pool will not drain so quickly;

To ensure that as little dust, dirt and fallen leaves as possible get into it, you should choose a place for it so that the prevailing direction of the wind goes along it; Moreover, the pipes for overflowing and purifying water should be located in the direction opposite to the direction of the wind - in this case, the accumulated dirt will be immediately drained.

It is not recommended to locate the pond next to large trees.

Advice. Maintenance of structures of complex shape, with many bends and angles, is much more difficult. In the absence of a high-quality filtration system, it is better to choose a rectangular or oval pool.

Optimal depth artificial reservoir - 105-170 cm. If there are children in the house, you should take care of their safety. To avoid accidents, the bathing area should be fenced off with a 50 cm deep mesh.

Preparing the pit. Waterproofing

The main stages of pool construction are:
laying a cushion of sand and crushed stone or gravel (in areas with sandy or rocky soil you can do without it);
installation of polystyrene foam on the bottom of the pool to compensate for soil pressure;
double waterproofing of the bowl (on the outer and inner sides of the concrete structure);
installation of treatment and drainage systems;
installation of formwork and reinforcement;
pouring concrete;
applying a waterproofing film (concrete milk);
finishing of the building.

1. Marking the pit is done using pegs and nylon twine stretched between them. When calculating its width, the size of the formwork is taken into account. The depth of the pit should also be greater than planned: when calculating, the heights of sand and foam pads, concrete pouring and finishing should be taken into account.

Marking the area for the pool

2. To protect against soil shedding, the walls of the pit are made with a slight slope. After leveling the bottom and walls, all loose soil is removed from the pit. The soil in it should be spilled with water and compacted thoroughly.

3. Its bottom is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand, and then with crushed stone or gravel and compacted again.

Drainage cushion device

Advice. To ensure that as little dirt as possible accumulates in the pool, it should be located slightly above the surface of the ground. Otherwise, rainwater along with dirt will constantly fall into the tank.

4. If the design provides bottom water drainage, pipes for it should be laid before backfilling with crushed stone. The pit is made with a slight slope towards the drains. Such pipes are packaged in protective sleeves that protect them from freezing, laid at a slight slope of 5° and discharged into a pre-prepared pit. At the other end of the pipe is installed valve. For a small pool, one pipe is enough. In a construction with a larger area, one drain will not be enough: it is better to provide 2-3 of them.

6. The simplest waterproofers are roofing felt on bitumen mastic or PVC film (polyethylene film will collapse very quickly). The film, like roofing felt, is rolled out with an overlap of 15 centimeters. The waterproofing material is laid on top of a layer of crushed stone of at least in two layers. It should protrude beyond the edges of the pool by 15-20 cm.

Waterproofing and formwork installation

Suspended formwork for walls. Pouring concrete

The walls of the pool will be put under pressure not only by the heaving of the soil, but also by the weight of about ten tons of water. Therefore, the concrete frame should be constructed from high-quality cement brands from M300-350 from proven manufacturers with mandatory installation double layer reinforcement with 20 cm cells. To increase the service life, it is advisable to add an additive to it - plasticizer. The thickness of the concrete walls is 15-20 mm. When pouring, concrete should be laid gradually, layer by layer, and each of them should be thoroughly compacted by hand or using a vibrator.

Important! If the pouring is done in layers and the subsequent seams are laid only after the previous one has hardened, a cold seam, which will be a problem area, a “weakness” in the concrete. When the soil moves, damage may occur at the joints. That's why It is advisable to fill the walls and bottom of the pool at the same time.

Cold seam

1. For simultaneous filling of the bottom and walls of the pool wall formwork can be “hanged”: lay boards across the pit on which the formwork will be attached. It is expanded with boards every 50 cm, and its joints are secured.

Pool formwork installation

2. First, the floor is poured a couple of centimeters above the bottom edge of the formwork. To prevent it from moving when pouring the walls, it should set slightly (setting time is no more than 4 hours). If, when immersing a reinforcement bar, it pushes through the concrete only 3-4 cm, you can begin to pour the walls. In this case, the mixture should fill the formwork evenly on all 4 sides.

3. If a concrete pump is used when pouring, it is set to minimum power. In order not to damage the not yet fully hardened floor, its hose is located parallel to the ground. When pouring, 5-10 minute pauses are periodically made to allow the concrete to vibrate and set.

4. If it is not possible to fill the walls and floor at the same time, the structure should be strengthened: fill the place where the cold seam forms with any elastic sealant: mastic, polymer, rubber cord, non-shrink cement or liquid glass. Before laying such compensation materials, the concrete surface must be thoroughly cleaned of contamination.

5. After removing the formwork, apply waterproofing film: cement mortar (concrete milk).

Application of waterproofing film

Penetrating waterproofing

Before finishing the pool walls, the concrete walls are waterproofed. For this, just as before pouring concrete, you can use PVC or roofing felt. A fairly effective, but more expensive method is the use of penetrating compounds such as Ceresite or Penotron, which are applied to slightly dry concrete. Processing is carried out in 2 layers.

Waterproofing with PVC film

Penetrating waterproofing coating

Water purification systems (pool filter)

Without filtration systems, the water in the pool will very quickly begin to emit an unpleasant odor, and its surface will become covered with a slippery coating. There are several ways to clean a pond:
periodic pumping and use of heated water for watering beds, fruit bushes and trees; however, if water is completely removed from the pool, the new one will take a long time to heat up;

using filtration systems; The simplest devices are installations filled with coarse sand; a small pit is installed next to the pool for a pump equipped with such a filter; two pipes are installed into the pool: one for collecting water, the second for draining purified water; In this case, energy costs will be minimal; you will only have to spend money on purchasing a pumping station;

Pool water purification device

By using chemical reagents(used as an additional cleaning system); You can get rid of water blooms not only by chlorination or adding bromine, but by using inexpensive and environmentally friendly perhydrol.

Perehydrol for pool water purification

Advice. Without water, a concrete bowl can crack in cold weather, so it is not recommended to drain water from it for the winter. It is enough to remove only part of the water, and to compensate for the pressure of the ice on the walls of the pool, throw several plastic 5-liter bottles into the water, from which a weight is suspended. To prevent too much debris from accumulating in the pool over the winter, it can be covered with any covering material.

Pool finishing

You can decorate the bottom and walls of the pool with mosaic tiles on a mesh base, propylene coating or acrylic paint for pools with the addition of color. Mosaic tiles should only be glued with an adhesive that can withstand significant temperature changes. When using a mesh, the mosaic will adhere well to any bends.

Advice. It is not advisable to use porous rubber-based paints for finishing the pool: it will be very difficult to wash them. Moreover, algae attaches very quickly to such surfaces.

Acrylic enamel painting and tiling