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DIY plastic windows for a panel house. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows. Ordering a window and preparing for work

Currently, more and more people are choosing metal-plastic windows. Regular apartments, country houses, and luxurious country mansions are equipped with such double-glazed windows. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen installation method and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation procedure and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.

Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows

Correct installation of new windows requires accurate measurements of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window 50 mm shorter than the length of the opening is installed in an opening without a quarter. Subtract 30 mm from the measured width. Leave 15 mm gaps along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with current GOSTs, 20 mm should be left around the perimeter. Leave an additional 35 mm below the window sill.

If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest place. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. There is no need to change the length.

As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of approximately 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done with your own hands, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Think about the offset in advance and take this parameter into account when ordering the ebb and window sill.

Add 50 mm to the width of the ebb and sill determined in accordance with the location of the window. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.

The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to place the product under the base of the PVC window. The length margin must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut out the window sill beautifully without any problems. Along with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. There is no need to give them up.

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Which frame mounting method should I choose?

The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the glass unit or on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can only change taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. Suitable fastening and method of installation of PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To secure the window structure you can use:

Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
Serrated plates. They press into profile. They are fastened to the wall and secured with screws.

Practice shows that the most reliable option is the first one. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of through-mounting, the window will normally withstand multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting the window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer has the opportunity to accurately adjust the horizontal and vertical alignment of the product being installed.

Those who install windows with solid double-glazed windows, i.e. without turning and folding sashes, you will be more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under slopes, so they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to pre-prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before installing slopes.

Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Anchors are sunk into the walls through the lower profile and side parts of the frame, and plates are used to secure the structure. If windows are installed in a wooden structure, it is better to avoid using plates, because They become loose after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.

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What does the owner of a wooden house need to know?

The process of installing a PVC window is very dependent on the material used to make the walls. In the case of structures made of brick and foam concrete, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings made of timber and logs, everything is a little more complicated.

If the walls of your house are made of wood, you need to remember a number of important rules. Firstly, it is recommended to start installing PVC windows in a wooden house no earlier than a year, or even better, 2 years after the completion of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest shrinkage value and period. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block should not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic.

After 1-2 years, the shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer as strong. After installation of PVC windows and completion of finishing work, this will also happen. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and humidity of building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and covered with platbands.

Building regulations do not make any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and flashings. As a rule, standard sills are used that come complete with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be rested directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. If you wish, you can install this product before installing the window. Or you don’t have to get rid of the old window sill if it is in good condition.

Experienced builders give a very useful recommendation, which is not in the regulatory documents, but it will be useful to any person who decides to independently install a PVC window. Wood allows vapor to pass through. If no action is taken about this, these evaporations will gradually deteriorate the properties of the polyurethane foam. And to prevent the foam from getting wet, polyethylene foam foil tape should be glued along the line of its application.

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Preparing the opening and window for installation

Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:

Screwdriver.
Foam gun and foam itself.
Level.
Jigsaw.
Hammer.
Set of hex keys.
Pencil.
Yardstick.
Stationery knife.

After you remove the old window, thoroughly clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally plan the top layer if the new window is installed in a frame that has already served for some time. Such pre-treatment ensures stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.

Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with polystyrene foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use sections of the same timber.

First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top hinge. You can carefully pry it off using a screwdriver or pliers. After this, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is solid, you need to remove the glass unit from it. First, the longitudinal beads are taken out, followed by the transverse ones. Glazing beads can be easily removed using a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert the auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually move it. Be careful and do everything so as not to damage the glass.

If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the glass units or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory structure, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or a double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some soft material.

Do not place double-glazed windows and sashes flat under any circumstances. It is also prohibited to place them askew. Even the smallest pebble under the base can cause a crack to appear in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. It's better to do this right away, because... In the future, this process will require much more effort.

Mark the locations for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with current GOSTs, the increment should not exceed 70 cm. Standard distances from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you are installing a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. Self-tapping screws are used for this. Prepare holes for long screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.

Most instructions indicate that before installation, you need to fix it using PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that gluing it before installation is quite inconvenient. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing bad will happen because of this.

Plastic windows deservedly enjoy a reputation for functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic designs. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing the wooden windows that are familiar to many people.

Plastic windows have gained a reputation as strong, durable and reliable structures.

Their additional advantages include the fact that, with a strong desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows themselves. And this is a big plus, because... For installation, specialists ask quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and will be able to do everything in accordance with technology.

How to determine the size of a future plastic window

Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out what exactly the design should be. And this preparatory stage begins with taking measurements. When taking measurements independently, the home master should know that there are window openings without and with a quarter. The order in which two different types of openings are measured will also differ.

The quarter option involves taking measurements in the following order. First you need to measure the opening between the quarters at the narrowest point and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the specified width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the bottom plane of the opening and the top horizontal quarter. This way you will determine the amount you need.

In the case when a plastic window is installed in an opening without the above-mentioned quarter, to determine the appropriate size, you simply need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 cm from the width.

Additionally, determine what size the window sill and flashing should be if you plan to replace them. There should be no complications with this operation, you just need to consider the following important factors.

When determining the width of the ebb, future thermal insulation or cladding must be taken into account. According to the standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to install potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when selecting a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element covers the heating radiators.

The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm greater than the width of the opening. The edges must be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.

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Ordering a window and preparing for work

At the next stage, you need to go along with the obtained measurements to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you don’t want to waste time on measurements or doubt that you can do everything correctly, order this service from the same company. Most companies offer it free of charge, provided that the window is ordered from them.

In addition to the window size, you need to determine the following parameters:

The number of cameras in a double-glazed window.
Number of cameras in the window profile.
Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.

The consultant will tell you in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare in advance. So, if winters in your region are not very cold, and the street outside the window is not very noisy, a window with two glasses and a profile 60 mm wide will be quite sufficient. Next, focus on the climate and environment.

To install a plastic window yourself, you will need the following:

To install windows you will need: a hammer, a drill, a screwdriver, a building level, etc.

A gun for polyurethane foam and the foam itself.
Drill with variable speed control and perforation mode.
Small ax and hammer.
Metal scissors.
A sharp knife, a stationery knife will do.
Building level.
Chisel.
Sander.
Nail puller.
Jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth.
Putty knife.

Additional materials you can buy:

Multi-purpose construction adhesive.
Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
Dowels.
Plastic corners and panels made of the same material.
Self-tapping screws of different sizes. Typically used are 6x40, 2x16, 2x80.
Solvents.
Mix for plaster.
Silicate glue.

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Do-it-yourself dismantling of an old window

At the very initial stage of changing windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.

If there are already windows installed in the room, then before you begin installing a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If you don’t plan to install the old window anywhere in the future, you don’t have to try to be careful, but caution won’t hurt. Do everything possible to avoid getting hurt or dropping the window outside. The last rule is especially relevant for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because a window could fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And even in a private house, cleaning glass will not give you any pleasure.

First, remove the opening windows and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, first removing the retaining beads. Take a grinder with a concrete wheel or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.

Using available tools - a pry bar, a crowbar, or a hammer - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to preserve the old window, the structure can be removed without deformation or damage. But this will require much more time and certain skills.

At this stage, both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. At the end, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window

Gradually you have come to the main stage of the work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of various activities.

First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to attach mounting plates to the end of the top and sides of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace plates with hangers, which are usually used when installing various plasterboard structures. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more advisable to use plates. They are stronger than pendants.

The planks must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. During installation, the fasteners will need to fit into the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be done in such a way that the glass unit does not deform. Fastening is done using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.

Attaching the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be done so that they are installed in increments of 6-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.

After this, you need to correctly position the prepared window structure. At a superficial glance, this procedure may seem quite simple, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will support the block, and the other will level it.

Place the block in the opening and adjust its position using pre-prepared wedges. It is important to position the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:

Wedge the module not only from below, but also from the sides.
Make sure that all vertical frame elements are in the same plane.
If there is an impost, place wedges under it as well.

Check that the unit is installed evenly using a level. If there are the slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, use anchor bolts or dowels to fix the anchor plates to the opening cavity. It is important that the elements are attached strictly to the enclosing structures. To do this, it may be necessary to remove a layer of plaster where the anchor plates are attached.

After you securely fix the module, seal the seams using foam specially designed for this job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Carefully read the instructions and make sure that it can be used at the humidity and temperature where the module is installed.

Before applying foam, moisten the joint surface with water. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.

Hello everyone, dear readers! Since we receive many questions about window installation, we decided to prepare an article about the correct installation of windows in accordance with GOST, so that you can check the quality of the work yourself after the installation team. We hope the article will be useful.

When we buy a window, we hope that it will serve us for many years. But over time, we notice that first it begins to blow from it, and then openly blow. The slopes become covered with cracks, black fungus appears in the corners, and in winter the flowers freeze on the windowsill.

As a rule, it all comes down to improper installation of the window. In this article we will talk about existing installation technology. Let's dwell on the correct installation of the window and consider what materials are best to use.

The first step is to prepare the opening, clean it of dust and dirt. If the opening has uneven surfaces, they must be leveled using putty.

First, the sash is removed. This is done as follows. It is necessary to open the window, remove the pin from the top hinge and remove the sash. Then it is removed, taped at the junction with the frame with psul tape and installed back.

Preparing a balcony block for installation using technology is similar to preparing a window. The joints of the frames, according to technological requirements, are glued with Psul tape and covered with a joining profile and taped again. The frames are then connected to each other using a joining profile.

Correct installation is the key to success

In accordance with the standards and requirements of GOST, in windows made of white PVC, the distance between fastenings should be no more than 700 mm. and 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the frame. The diameter of the drill must be less than the diameter of the screw.

Holes for connection are drilled in the frames. Self-tapping screws are inserted into these holes and the frames are twisted. When fastening the structure with anchor dowels, holes in the frame are drilled in advance. According to GOST, there should be 150-180 mm from the frame corner. Between fasteners no more than 700 mm. Holes for dowels are drilled from the outside of the frame.

Then support blocks are placed under the frames. The support blocks can be made of hardwood or plastic. Next, the structure must be inserted into the opening and the frame must be secured with pillows. Then you need to take a level and use it to level the window structure horizontally, helping with support blocks and cushions.

After horizontal alignment, the frame must be aligned vertically relative to the facade using the same level and cushions. On the outside, it is necessary to mark the place where the PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) will be glued. After marking, the frame is removed.

If you plan to finish the slopes with PVC panels, then you need to snap the starting profile for the slopes onto the frame.

With a shift of 5 mm. From the marks applied, a psul tape is glued to the outside of the frame. First on the top, then on the sides.

PSUL– pre-compressed sealing tape – used to connect a vapor-tight water-repellent layer to the outside of the assembly seam.

On the inside, to protect the installation seam from moisture, it is necessary to stick a full-butyl vapor barrier inner tape and secure it in the corners. Then the structure must be placed back in the opening and finally leveled using cushions and support blocks.

After this, holes are drilled in the wall for the dowels and vertical spacer blocks are inserted on the sides of the frame and the window is secured.

After securing the window, you can hang the sashes. The next stage is insulating the window seam with polyurethane foam. For high-quality sealing, it is better to use professional foam for a gun with low secondary expansion. Before applying the foam, you need to moisten the opening with a spray bottle.

Shake the foam canister thoroughly and fill the openings to 70% of their depth. Seams larger than 5 mm are filled with foam in several layers.

If the window is installed in winter, then it is necessary to use frost-resistant materials and winter foam. 15-20 minutes after applying the foam, it is necessary to close the inner tape. A metallized vapor barrier tape is installed under the window sill. On the outside, an external diffusion vapor-permeable tape is installed under the ebb. The window is installed.

Finishing a plastic window after installation

After the plastic window is installed, you can begin the process of decorating it, i.e. installation of slopes and ebbs.

End caps are put on the pre-sawn ebb. To reduce noise from rain, it is recommended to apply full-butyl tape at low tide. Then the ebb is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

The window sill is installed as follows. Special brackets are attached to self-tapping screws under the window to simplify installation of the window sill. The space under the future window sill is lightly foamed with mounting foam so that the window sill does not rise. After this, the window sill itself is inserted between the frame and the bracket. Again, using a level and support blocks, the window sill is leveled horizontally.

Note. When leveling the window sill, it is necessary to make a slope of 1-2 degrees towards the room. After installing the window sill, you can begin to decorate the window opening. To do this, take special PVC panels that are attached to the initial profile with a clip. The platband is wound around the corner and secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. It is covered with a decorative strip on top.

Don't forget to put end caps on the windowsill. The seams between the slope panels, the end trims of the window sill and the ebb are sealed with neutral silicone sealant.

Today, owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is quite justified for a number of reasons:

Due to increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
High functionality and modern materials make it possible to avoid additional window maintenance work: tinting the frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking cracks to insulate windows for the winter; removing the insulation from the window in the spring; pulling gauze over the sashes to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is implied in the operation of wooden window structures.
A sealed double-glazed window well insulates the room from noise, allowing you to maintain home comfort and protect the peace of the owners.
The structures have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
The cost of a plastic window is lower than a similar wooden product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3,600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5,500 rubles. However, a wooden window will still need to be glassed and painted, which means additional time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.

Those who are going to take on the task of installing plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. That’s why we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to carry out the installation themselves.

Installing plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not such universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. Thus, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, bathhouses, etc.). By the way, window production and installation companies prefer not to talk about this. In addition, problems may arise when installing PVC window profiles in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.

When choosing a contractor to replace windows in your house, you may encounter the fact that the craftsmen simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. There are only a few people who have control over the situation and can comprehensively cover it.

First, let's try to figure out the question: does it even make sense to install PVC windows with your own hands? Contrary to popular belief, installing windows is not that difficult. To perform it, you do not need to stock up on professional equipment or gain special experience over a long period of time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:

dismantling the old structure;
installation of a new plastic window.

Usually dismantling takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. The actual installation of the window (we take an average window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that it will take a maximum of three and a half hours to replace one window. Therefore, during Saturday-Sunday you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $40-60 for installing each window, we get quite a good saving. Some companies set installation costs as a percentage of the cost of the windows. This amount varies among different specialists and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for the windows. Also, when ordering windows from specialized companies, they can deliver the new structure to your home and dismantle it free of charge.

When entrusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:

When purchasing windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only on installation seams and their filling, the correct geometry of individual elements and the functionality of the window structure for 1 year after the work has been completed. Since self-installation practically deprives you of the warranty on window structures, you need to be more careful in choosing products. It is better to prefer windows manufactured at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a “pig in a poke”, the quality and functionality of which can present an unpleasant surprise. In this regard, to purchase window structures, it is advisable to contact directly a manufacturing company that has been operating on the market for a long time and has good reviews from numerous clients. By the way, if you order windows in winter or spring (that is, out of season), you can get a significant discount;
when purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a warranty on the fittings - from one to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the longer the warranty period, as a rule);
If the windows are installed with your own hands, then a warranty on the fittings must be requested at the place where the structures were purchased. You will have to take full responsibility for the quality of the seams.

Do-it-yourself installation of PVC windows should be done if you have:

a couple of free days (weekends as an option);
hard work and desire to learn something new;
desire to save money.

If all of the above is present, then the recommendations outlined in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in your house, doing it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install the window; two people will be enough, one of whom will carry out the installation, and the other will hold the structure and provide the necessary tools. Despite the apparent complexity, self-installation of PVC windows is a fairly simple process, representing a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before you begin installation, you need to order a window, and this requires correct preliminary measurements. So…

Window measurements: everything you need to know

First, we determine the type of window opening.

It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.

Taking measurements of a window without a quarter

A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in the vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with mounting foam at the top of the window, and 3.5 centimeters will be laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm on the right and left) and get the width of the window.

Next, measure the length and width of the ebb and window sill. To the resulting dimensions you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to “embed” the window sill a little into the wall on both sides. If you are getting down to business for the first time, then set the size of the window sill larger - during installation, all excess will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebbs have a standardized width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). Having minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and deliver the most suitable parts.

We take measurements of the window and a quarter

Width: measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters on each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the top quarter. There is no need to add or subtract anything from the resulting figure.

The window sill and ebb are measured, as in the first option.

As a result, after all the measurements made, we should have written down:

window height and width;
length and width of the ebb;
length and width of the window sill.

When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that the opening itself cannot be measured. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.

When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. Typically the following elements are included:

windowsill;
end caps. To choose the right plugs, you need to indicate the width of the window sill (the protruding part from the wall);
installation profile;
anchor plates – structural fastening elements.

If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.

In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:

profile type (number of cameras);
double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
type of opening window sashes. The most common: swing, tilt and turn with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases, blind windows are installed that cannot be opened. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. The ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the fittings. There are several types of window openings. For convenient ventilation, the window should be equipped with tilt-and-turn fittings. Blind versions of the sashes are unsuitable for ventilation; conventional hinged sashes without turning are inconvenient.

Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not sneak into the house

Thermal conductivity of plastic windows

In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is also necessary to take into account such quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than that specified for the specific region of residence.

Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in the double-glazed window. If you order windows with energy-saving glass, the thermal insulation of structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glass is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.

The thermal conductivity of a window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, or less often due to manufacturing defects. Very often, in the process of improper installation, a chip or crack appears on a double-glazed window, and the structure loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually, this manifests itself as fogging of the inner surface of the glass. As a result, in winter the room will become colder, and the house will have to be heated more.

To improve the thermal conductivity parameters of the window, you can prepare a support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the stand profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To attach the drain, you will have to drill it, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. To normalize the thermal insulation properties of the window, the internal volume of the stand profile can be filled with polyurethane foam. This should be done the day before installing the window so that the foam completely hardens. Foaming of the stand profile is not provided for by GOST; window companies also do not practice this operation.

Soundproofing properties of plastic windows

This parameter is essential if there is a busy highway or railway near the house. However, it is always more pleasant if external noise from the street does not penetrate inside the house. And this cannot be achieved without high-quality window sound insulation.

Methods for installing PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack – that is the question!

When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the diagram of a plastic window.

Frame– one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed from a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
Double-glazed window- the largest element of the window, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a sealed structure consisting of glass. Depending on the number of glasses and air gaps between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits tightly to the frame due to the seal.
Glazing beads– parts that allow you to mechanically secure the glass unit to the frame.
Impost– a divider, thanks to which the window is divided into several sashes. There are single-leaf, double-leaf, three-leaf, etc. designs.
Blind sash– a sash without an opening mechanism.
Transom- opening door.
Window sill(other names – bottom, mounting, stand) profile– load-bearing element of the window structure. It is necessary for the correct installation and fastening of a plastic window sill and external drain indoors.
Accessories– all moving parts of the structure intended for opening, closing, fixing the transom when ventilating the room.

Window installation method with unpacking

(in some regions the term “unpacking” is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After fixing the frame to the wall throughly, all removed elements are installed again.

To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, and with gentle blows on the handle, knock the glazing bead out of the groove until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the glass unit in the sash. It is not recommended to do this procedure with the sharp end of a knife, since it increases the risk of damaging the window or glazing bead. To remove the glass unit, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the sharp corners of the structure. If the window is not solid and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the sashes, it is easier to remove the entire assembly without removing the glass unit. That's it, the structure is ready for installation.

Disadvantages of the method: more labor-intensive, takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often, fogging of the glass unit occurs in a window installed using this method. In addition, the appearance of the glazing beads may be damaged (scratches, chips) if they are removed/installed carelessly. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally touching them and breaking them.

Advantages and scope of application of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and provides a strong fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:

— it is planned to fasten windows in multi-story buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no wind and gusts of wind, they do not need to be unpacked;

— installation of structures of considerable size is to be done. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).

Window installation method without unpacking

This method does not require disassembling the structure. That is, there is no need to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is secured to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed on the outside of the wall.

Advantages and scope of application of the method: Installing windows without unpacking saves time, shortening the process as much as possible. This method is recommended for use where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, and also, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.

Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, advice from professionals

The installation of plastic windows is specific, so this work requires a special set of tools and materials, without which it is almost impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If you can’t buy the things you need in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - the professionals will definitely find what you’re missing.

plumb and level
screwdriver and hammer drill
drill with a set of drills
gun and mounting foam;
hacksaw or jigsaw
small crowbar or pry bar
silicone gun
chisel or knife with a wide blade
mounting wedges
tape measure and pencil
roll moisture-proofing material
sheets of iron (galvanized) and metal scissors (needed for making drains yourself)

The main stages of installing PVC windows:

dismantling the previous structure and window sill;
preparing a new window for installation;
marking the frame for subsequent fastening;
fixing fasteners to the frame;
making holes for fasteners;
leveling the plastic structure;
securing the structure in the opening;
installation of low tide (can be done at the end of the process);
intermediate adjustment of fittings;
foaming the cavities between the window opening and the frame;
window sill installation;
final adjustment of fittings.

Each stage of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.

Dismantling old window structures

Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation

Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window open, there is a risk of deformation of the structure (the foam that will fill the gap between the opening and the frame can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it cannot be opened. And to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the installation of the window is completed.

It is not recommended to remove the tape that covers the surface of the window to protect it from damage until the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes are completed.

PVC window installation sequence

Marking on the frame for fastening points

We retreat 5-15 centimeters from the corner of the frame and mark a place for the outermost fixing element. The frame needs to be fastened on 4 sides, the fasteners are located every 70-100 cm. If a stand profile is used, the frame is not fastened from below.

Fixing the fastener to the frame

Fastening elements include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, and U-shaped hangers for drywall.

Anchor plates and hangers have the same price - $0.05 (wholesale), $0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When purchasing, give preference to products made from thicker metal.

The fastener must be tightly secured in the metal frame frame. In order for the element to secure well, the screws must be used for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you need to first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.

Applying recesses for fasteners

We place the frame with the fasteners attached to it in the window opening, then knock out recesses in the opening in the appropriate places (depth 2 - 4 cm, width similar to the size of the fasteners). The fasteners will later sink into these recesses. By completing this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to finish the slopes.

Tip: when installing a window without a mounting strip, you should place blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to attach the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. If there is a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Typically, the mounting strip is already fixed to the frame and does not require additional fixation.

Leveling the window structure

This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal planes, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or bars that are placed under the frame. The first pair of lower wedges is set, then you can immediately fix the window from above with an anchor plate. Next we place two wedges at the top, then on the left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, you also need to put a wedge under it. During these actions, it is important to ensure that the vertical posts do not deviate to another plane. It is convenient to level the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts wedges.

Attaching the window to the opening

Having achieved a perfectly level position of the window, i.e. Having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fastening the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide more reliable fixation. They are recommended to be used if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. Fastening on anchor plates is used if the block structure contains a thermal insert and the frame in the mounting plane cannot be mechanically secured. A dowel driven into concrete can withstand a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix a window. For wooden walls, you can use screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.

Advice: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm until they stop. There is no need to screw in the construction screws in the upper part of the structure yet. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the gaps on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame in one direction or another. After the final fastening, this will be more difficult. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal/vertical structure is maintained, you can completely fix the frame by screwing in the screws on top and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After this, it is worth checking the horizontal and vertical structure again.

Fastening the ebb of a plastic window

Installation of ebb tides can be done at the very end. You can buy the ebb ready-made or make it yourself. It is best to secure this element under the window - this will prevent the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. If it is not possible to attach the ebb under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which 9 mm metal screws are used.

Intermediate adjustment of fittings

It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. An open sash should not slam shut on its own. Correctly adjusted hinges will allow it to remain in the desired position.

When moving, does the sash “strike” where the locking hardware is installed? Move this element a little lower or higher.

Foaming the gaps between the opening and the frame

It is important to fill the gaps so that there are no voids left. Large cracks (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several stages, with a break between them of two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window as it expands. In addition, the consumption of polyurethane foam is saved, there is no excess that has to be cut off, and the quality of the assembly seam improves.

Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of humidity in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly spray the area between the window opening and the frame with water before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-season foam is used. In warmer weather, you can use summer foam.

After polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to protect it from exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with finishing the slope. But if you don’t want to make slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam needs to be covered immediately, since it quickly collapses due to exposure to direct sunlight. In this case, we prepare a cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part cement and 2 parts sand, or dilute tile adhesive and cover the foam with any of these materials. In addition, you can purchase PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) at a hardware store and cover the polyurethane foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $3 per linear meter), so the first options are used more often.

Window sill installation

1. Trimming. The window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and width. Before installation, the window sill is cut using a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.

2. Leveling. We move the window sill to the support profile and level it using wooden blocks or other available materials.

We cover the side sections of the window sill with end caps. It is better to glue the plugs to the ends with super glue.

By lightly pressing the window sill with your hand, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed level, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) “from the window.” Thanks to this slope, possible condensation does not flow under the window.

We foam the cavity under the window sill.

After foaming, place something heavy on the surface of the windowsill (you can use plastic water bottles or books for this purpose) and leave it like that for 0.5 days.

If you do not press down the window sill with a load, it will bend upward under the influence of foam.

3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After which its remains, sticking out unsightly from the crack under the window sill, need to be cut off using a utility knife.

4. If the window sill was initially uneven, then during installation there may be a gap left between its upper part and the frame. It is carefully filled with silicone. It is worth considering that this material has low biostability and can turn black from fungus. A gap will not appear if galvanized iron plates in the shape of the letter “Z” are fastened to the window sill profile in advance (before installation). In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to grind the window sill tightly, they will simplify the task of leveling it.

Final window adjustment

At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw on the handle. If finishing the slopes is postponed, do not remove the tape until all finishing work is completed.

Possible errors when installing windows

Here we list the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can negatively affect the ease of use and service life of the structure:

Installation is carried out with glazing beads facing outwards. This reduces the window's burglary resistance, since in this case the beads can be easily removed from the outside and the glass unit can be pulled out.
The window is poorly aligned, making it difficult to open and close.
The polyurethane foam is not protected from the sun's rays, as a result of which it is destroyed.
Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be attached directly to it.
The window structure is not fixed by any fasteners and is held in place only by polyurethane foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastening. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.

We hope that after reading the article you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact an installation organization, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.

Replacing old wooden doors and windows with plastic ones is still quite expensive. This very necessary and useful event can be significantly reduced in cost, because a significant part of the costs is the labor of installers. Having some skills in working with ordinary household tools, the home owner will be able to carry out the installation on his own; you just need to carefully read the material presented below.

Types of plastic windows

First you need to choose a suitable window, which is not so easy to do, because these products are available in a wide variety of designs.

Number of leaves

Windows up to 1.5x1 m in size are usually made single-leaf, larger ones - double-hung, and the widest and tallest - three-hung. In some cases, when the window dimensions exceed the standards, there may be more sashes. “Multi-leaf” should be avoided if possible, since the partition between the sashes - the so-called impost - due to the characteristics of the frame profile is quite wide, especially if the sashes open.

Main components of a plastic window assembly

For example, in a three-leaf window they reduce the glazing area by about 10%, and also significantly increase the weight of the product. It is advisable to install windows in an apartment with no more than 2 sashes.

Sash type

The following options are available:

Deaf. The simplest and lightest design, but fixed windows are used extremely rarely, since they are difficult to clean from the outside.
Rotary (swing). Such sashes open in the same way as regular wooden window sashes.
Folding. The sash rotates relative to the lower horizontal edge, while its upper part moves out of the frame. This opening mechanism is simpler than a rotary one, but it is only suitable for ventilation. To make it convenient to clean the window from the outside, there must be at least one swing sash next to the folding sash.
Combined (swing and tilt). Today they are the most common. Thanks to the use of a complex mechanism, by turning the handle to one position or another, the sash can be turned into either a folding one (in everyday life this is called “ventilation mode”) or a rotary one.

One window block may contain different types of sashes

If there are several sashes in a window, they may be of different types. For example, in a tricuspid, the outer leaves can be rotary or combined, and the middle one can be blind.

Number of cameras in the frame

During the manufacturing process of the profile, from 3 to 7 longitudinal cavities are formed in it - they increase the thermal resistance of the product. If the building is located in a region with a warm climate or is unheated (outbuilding or garage, warehouse), a 3-chamber window can be installed in it.

In residential buildings in regions with cold climates, it is necessary to install windows from a 5-chamber profile or at least a 4-chamber profile.

Profiles with 6 and 7 chambers are significantly more expensive than 5-chamber ones and are heavier, but at the same time they have almost the same thermal resistance, so purchasing them is not recommended. It would be more rational to install a double-glazed window with a larger width.

Profile type according to wall thickness

For use in residential premises, a type “A” profile is intended, in which the outer wall has a thickness of 2.8 mm and the inner wall is 2.5 mm thick. In rooms where the microclimate is not so important, for example, in industrial areas, you can use windows from type “B” and “C” profiles with a smaller wall thickness.

Number of cameras in a double-glazed window

A double-glazed window can be assembled from 2, 3 or 4 sheets of glass, respectively, it can have one, two or three chambers. The more chambers, the higher the thermal resistance and sound insulation. In residential buildings today, in most cases, 2-chamber double-glazed windows are installed.

The most common are two- and three-chamber double-glazed windows

3-chamber ones are slightly superior in thermal resistance and noise insulation, but they cost and weigh much more, so purchasing them is not recommended. Single-chamber double-glazed windows are used only on balconies, in various unheated buildings, shops, etc.

Speaking about the “intimacy” of a window, it can mean the number of cameras both in the double-glazed window and in the frame. Therefore, if we are talking about a 3-chamber window, you need to clarify which element has three chambers.

We recommend paying attention to double-glazed windows with increased sound insulation, in which the glass is installed at different distances from each other. It is selected so that sound waves are damped by their own reflection.

Glass type

Today, along with conventional glass, energy-saving glass is used in metal-plastic windows. They have an absolutely transparent metal coating that reflects infrared radiation. Energy-saving glass is also called I-glass. Instead of air, the glass unit assembled from them is filled with an inert gas - argon, xenon or some other gas.

In combination with spraying, this increases thermal resistance by 10-15%.

Some unscrupulous manufacturers offer customers double-glazed windows filled with argon or xenon, but made of ordinary glass. Such double-glazed windows are presented as energy efficient and are sold at a higher price. In fact, the difference in thermal resistance with a conventional “air” double-glazed window is a maximum of 2%. Therefore, when purchasing, check whether the glass is coated.

Also, double-glazed windows are made from tinted, tempered (if damaged, they crumble into small safe fragments) glass, as well as triplex.

Form

Along with rectangular ones, triangular, trapezoidal, hexagonal, arched, round and oval windows are manufactured.

Plastic windows can have the most unexpected configurations - from simple geometric shapes to their bizarre combinations

Frame appearance

The frame can be not only white, but also colored, as well as laminated with a polymer film with a pattern imitating the texture of wood.

Types of plastic doors

Doors, like windows, can also differ in a number of parameters: purpose, types of door leaf and threshold, etc.

Purpose

According to their purpose, doors are divided into:

input;
balcony;
interior

External doors are insulated (made of a 5-chamber profile), often reinforced with steel sheets or bars. The profile wall has a thickness of at least 3 mm.

External plastic doors are made with insulation and reinforcement with a metal grid or sheet

In terms of heat and sound insulation characteristics, a balcony door does not differ from an entrance door, but it is less protected from burglary and has a mechanism that allows it to be kept ajar for the purpose of ventilation.

Balcony doors differ from entrance doors in the presence of a mechanism that keeps them in ventilation mode

The interior door is the simplest and cheapest. It has no insulation or burglary protection.

The interior plastic door differs from the entrance and balcony doors in its simplicity of design

Blade type

There are two types of canvas:

Two types of double-glazed windows are used in doors:

single-chamber: for interior doors;
two-chamber: for external doors.

Threshold type

Metal-plastic doors can be equipped with three types of thresholds:

Opening method

Many options available:

Hinged: the sash rotates relative to the vertical axis in one direction.
Pendulum: the door opens in both directions.
Carousel: rotates in a circle.
Sliding: the canvas moves to the side, as if hiding into the wall or moving along it.
Folding: the canvas consists of several sections and can be folded like an accordion.

The sliding door leaf can be hidden in the wall structure or move along its surface

Strength class

There are three classes:

class “A”: the most durable doors;
class “B”: medium in strength;
class “B”: the least durable.

How to take measurements correctly

Before measuring the window opening, it is advisable to knock down the slopes in order to clearly see its boundaries. The fastest way to do this is with a hammer drill equipped with a special tool - a “shovel”.

Having exposed the main material of the walls, measure the height and width of the opening. Measurements must be taken at several points along the opening, after which the smallest values are selected from the obtained values. In openings with a quarter, measurements are taken along the outside of the opening, that is, the distances between the edges of the quarters are taken.

The size of the window will depend on the type of opening:

For openings with a quarter: the width of the window is determined by adding 3 cm to the width of the opening from the outside. The height of the window is taken equal to the height of the opening from the outside (that is, between the quarter projections).
For openings without a quarter: the width of the window is determined by subtracting two widths of the installation gap from the width of the opening. The latter is 1.5–2 cm, therefore, you need to subtract 3–4 cm.

From the measurement of the width of the window opening, two installation gaps should be subtracted (in total this value will be 3–4 cm)

The height of the window is calculated by subtracting two mounting gaps and the height of the stand profile from the height of the opening.

The height of a plastic window is determined by measuring the opening and then subtracting from the result the height of the stand profile and two installation gaps

The width of the ebb and window sill is selected based on how deep it is decided to place the window in the opening. Typically, 1/3 of the wall thickness extends from the outer surface of the wall. Then the width of the ebb will be 1/3 of the wall thickness + 5 cm.

The width of the window sill is calculated as follows: add 2 cm to the distance from the inner surface of the window to the inner surface of the wall (by this value the window sill will be placed under the window) and also the width of the protruding part, which should be such that the window sill overlaps the heating radiator underneath by half of it (radiator) width.

The optimal length margin for a window sill is 15 cm. The amount of margin can be reduced, but not more than 8 cm. It should be taken into account that the window will look less attractive.

The diagram is an illustration of the concepts of quantities involved in determining the size of a plastic window, slopes and window sill

To determine the dimensions of the door frame, you need to subtract two installation gaps from the width of the opening (they have the same width of 1.5–2 cm), and only one from the height of the opening.

Video: how to measure the opening for a plastic window

Preparing the opening

Immediately before installing the product, dismantle the old filling.

Removing old windows

Performed in the following sequence:

Platbands, if any, are dismantled. Here it may be difficult to remove the fasteners. If nails were used for this purpose, you need to pry the frame with a nail puller or a thin chisel and pull slightly towards yourself to slightly pull the nails out of the frame. If you then return the platband to its place with a hammer, the heads of the nails will stick out from it, so that you can grab them with a nail puller or pliers. When unscrewing screws, the tip of the screwdriver must be pressed into the grooves on the head as hard as possible so that they do not get “licked off”.
The remains of the plaster on the slopes are knocked down with a hammer drill with the already mentioned “shovel”.
Next, the sashes are removed.
Insulation and fragments of plaster mortar are removed from the gap between the frame and the wall.
The window sill is dismantled. The layer of cement mortar underneath is knocked off with a chisel.
The frame fastening is unscrewed, after which it is pulled out of the opening. You should not save the old window, as it is usually thrown away. Therefore, if necessary, the frame can be cut.

Video: dismantling an old window

Removing old doors

Old doors are removed from the opening in the same way as windows.

Next, the opening needs to be cleared of debris, paint and dust. The floor in the doorway is also cleaned, since the threshold is an integral part of the metal-plastic door. The floor covering must be firmly attached to the base.

After this, the wall is treated with a deep penetration primer.

Video: how to dismantle an interior door

Tools and materials

To install windows and doors, you need to have the following tools:

a drill with an impact mechanism or a hammer drill, as well as drills for concrete and metal;
screwdriver;
level: bubble level is only suitable when installing a door, but for a window you need to use a water level (spirit level);
plumb line;
rubber hammer;
pliers;
knife or spatula.

The materials you will need are:

dowels or anchor bolts;
a container with polyurethane foam (if installation is carried out in cold weather, you will need a special nozzle);
special corners for wedging windows (can be replaced with wooden blocks).

Self-installation of plastic windows

Before installation, the sashes and double-glazed windows must be in a vertical position, for which they are placed against the wall, with cardboard laid on the floor. Elements can only be placed on a flat surface.

Window installation

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

Using a screwdriver or pliers, remove the pins from the upper hinges of the sashes (you need to grab them from below), after which the sashes are removed from the hinges upwards. You need to remove the glass unit from a blind window by prying up the glazing beads with a knife or spatula.
If the PVC window is equipped with opening sashes, they must be removed before installing the frame in the opening
Markings are applied to the frame indicating the position of the fastening elements. The optimal step is 40 cm, 15 cm should be retreated from the corners and impost.
Having equipped the drill with a metal drill, drill holes in the frame according to the markings. You need to drill from the outside.
The frame is installed in the opening, while plastic spacer wedges in the form of corners are laid between it and the ends of the opening (can be replaced with wooden blocks). It is advisable to place the wedges opposite the mounting holes.
The vertical installation of the frame is controlled by a level
By adjusting the position of the wedges, install the frame so that the mounting gaps on all sides are of equal width.
Using a level and plumb line, set the frame in a strictly vertical position.
Markings are applied to the wall through the holes in the frame.
Having removed the frame, drill holes in the wall with a hammer drill equipped with a concrete drill, 6–10 cm deep, for anchors or dowels. Sleeves of fastening elements are installed in the holes.
Reinstall the frame and screw in the fasteners. At this stage you just need to bait it.
Marking the walls for fasteners is done through already drilled holes in the frame
Adjust the position of the frame using a plumb line and a water level, after which the fasteners are finally screwed in. Do not screw in dowels or anchors with force, as they will bend the profile. You need to stop as soon as the cap disappears into the profile or even when it protrudes 1 mm from it.
The sashes or double-glazed windows are installed in place. You should check whether the doors open easily, whether the hinges and other fittings work well.
The opening and frame are sprayed with water. After this, moving from bottom to top, the gap between the frame and the opening is filled with polyurethane foam using rotary and circular movements. Filling should be done in several stages, each time treating an area 25–30 cm long. With this approach, overuse of sealant will be eliminated (the polyurethane foam greatly increases in volume when it dries).
The gaps between the wall and the window frame are filled with foam
From the inside and outside, the seams are first covered with vapor barrier tape (it should be foil-lined at the bottom), then with special strips.
A layer of polyurethane foam is protected on both sides with insulating material

Video: installing a plastic window in a panel house

Window sill installation

The window sill is screwed to the support profile after the window is installed.

The stand profile is necessary for attaching the window sill and protecting the window from freezing

You cannot neglect the installation of the stand profile, as some unscrupulous installers do. In this case, the window sill and ebb will have to be screwed to the window frame, as a result of which its tightness will be compromised. In addition, without a support profile the window will freeze.

The process of attaching the window sill is covered in detail in this article:

Installation of slopes

A window without slopes will look like an unfinished structure through which, regardless of the number of chambers, cold will enter from outside and heat will escape from inside the room.

Upon completion of all work, the protective film is removed from the metal-plastic profile. You should not delay this, since over time the film diffuses into the PVC shell of the profile, as a result of which its removal becomes quite difficult. After installation, the metal-plastic window cannot be opened for at least 16 hours, or better yet 24 hours.

Installation of ebb tides

From the street side, you need to screw the drainage system to the stand profile using self-tapping screws. The connection point must be absolutely waterproof, for which it is carefully treated with sealant.

The edges of the drainage system must be inserted into holes several centimeters deep, specially cut in the wall using a hammer drill.

Installation procedure for drainage system

To prevent the drainage system from making a “drumming” sound when it rains, its bottom needs to be covered with polyurethane foam or covered with Linotherm tape or other noise-insulating material.

Video: mistakes when installing plastic windows and what happens to the foam

Installation of plastic doors

The installation of a metal-plastic door is carried out in almost the same order as the windows.

This is how you can schematically imagine the typical design of a plastic door

Door installation

The fabric is removed from the hinges.
Holes for anchor bolts are drilled in the frame. There should be three of them on each side.
Determine the depth of the door in the opening and screw 4 dowels into the walls - two at the top and two at the bottom. They will serve as limiters for the box, which will greatly facilitate the installation of this heavy element in the desired position. The dowels must be in the same vertical plane, so markings for the holes for them must be applied using a plumb line.
Place the box in the opening, resting it against the stops, and using wedges give it the correct position: the installation gaps on the right and left should be of equal width, the racks should be positioned strictly vertically (controlled by a plumb line or level).
Markings are applied to the walls through the holes in the box, after which the box is removed and holes for anchors or dowels are drilled in the walls according to the markings. You need to hammer sleeves into them for fastening.
Place the box in place and screw it to the walls. At first, the fasteners are only attached, and finally screwed in after the box is leveled or plumb.
Reinstall the door leaf.
Fill the installation gap with polyurethane foam.
If the width of the installation gap exceeds 4 cm, then in order to reduce the cost of foaming (installation foam is an expensive material), it is recommended to partially fill it with polystyrene foam, wooden slats, plasterboard or plywood.

Video: installation of a plastic door

Installation of slopes

Then the slopes are installed. The installation process looks like this:

Cut off the protruding polyurethane foam.
Clean the opening from plaster, paint, wallpaper, etc.
Cracks and crevices are sealed with cement-sand mortar.
Remove the protective film from the metal-plastic profile.
A frame is formed from wooden slats with a cross-section of 20x40 mm, screwing it to the wall with 6x60 mm dowels.
Parts with shapes and sizes corresponding to the slopes are cut out from plastic panels.
Screw the panels to the frame with self-tapping screws.
The seams are coated with sealant, the heads of the screws are covered with a compound to match the color of the panel.

Now you need to remove the remaining protective film from the profile.

Instead of anchors, for fastening windows and doors, you can use special mounting plates, which are embedded on one side in the PVC shell of the profile, and on the other, rest against the walls. With this fastening method, you do not have to drill holes in the profile, however, in terms of its strength, it is significantly inferior to fastening using anchors.

Features of installation in a wooden structure

Due to shrinkage characteristic of wooden buildings, it is recommended to install metal-plastic windows in them at least a year after construction, and preferably after two. If the house is built from laminated veneer lumber, the holding time can be reduced, since this building material is made from well-dried wood and therefore shrinks very little.

The window is first fixed in a wooden frame made from bars soaked in antiseptic, and then installed in this form in the opening. The frame serves as a protective frame that prevents deformation of the window in the event of shrinkage of the structure. To minimize the effect of this phenomenon, a gap of 3–7 cm wide is left between the wooden frame and the upper edge of the opening (depending on the moisture content of the wood and, accordingly, the expected amount of shrinkage). The gap is filled with stuffing made of jute insulation.

The wooden frame is attached to the opening with self-tapping screws.

Since wood has some vapor permeability, the mounting foam used to seal cracks must be protected from moisture. For this purpose, the wooden frame and the ends of the wall in the opening are covered with tape made of thin polyethylene foam coated with foil.

Before installing a metal-plastic door, the doorway must be equipped with a so-called frame. It is also a frame made of timber and is designed to protect the door from the impact of a shrinking wall. In addition, the posts of the frame fasten logs or beams, the connection between which weakens somewhat after the opening is constructed.

The frame protects window and door blocks from deformations that occur during the shrinkage of the log house

To install the frame, vertical grooves with a cross-section of 50x50 mm are cut out with a router in the side walls of the opening. Stands are inserted into these grooves. Next, boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the wall are nailed to them, parallel to the walls of the opening.

A threshold made of a T-shaped beam 100 mm thick is nailed from below, and a horizontal jumper (top) is nailed from above. The top should push the posts apart, and a gap of 15 cm should be left between it and the upper wall of the opening. The gap is filled with jute insulation and covered on both sides with vapor barrier tape.

Video: what type of casing is there: two types of casing boxes

Rules of care and use

To ensure that your doors and windows last a long time, follow these recommendations:

The metal-plastic profile and fittings should be protected from dirt and dust during construction and repair work.
Also, the profile must be protected from contact with hot metal particles during welding or cutting metal products with a grinder.
The metal-plastic profile and double-glazed windows should be washed using a soap solution or non-abrasive detergents that do not contain acids or solvents.
Particular attention should be paid to the door threshold, which is most susceptible to contamination. When cleaning a room, it must be vacuumed.
At the beginning of the warm season, the pressure on the metal-plastic door should be loosened, and at the beginning of the cold season, it should be strengthened. The pressure is adjusted by rotating one of the screws on the door hinges. In total, each hinge has three screws, each of which, when rotated, moves the blade along one of the mutually perpendicular axes.

Twice a year it is necessary to carry out maintenance, which consists of the following:

all moving mechanisms are lubricated;
the drainage holes located below are cleaned from dirt (except for interior doors);
the condition of the rubber seals is checked, and if contamination is detected, they are cleaned;
rubber seals are rubbed with silicone lubricants (prevent rapid aging of the polymer).

To lubricate mechanisms, oils without acids and resins should be used. These are, for example, machine oil and technical petroleum jelly. Frost-resistant compounds should be used for external fittings.

Due to their tightness, high thermal resistance and immunity to fluctuations in temperature and humidity conditions, metal-plastic doors and windows have now proven to be in great demand. But the installation of such structures is not much different from the installation of conventional wooden analogues. The instructions given in this article will help the user cope with this task independently, as well as create conditions under which windows and doors will last as long as possible.