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Mixer gander: remove, change, repair

Repair of a gander faucet in the bathroom: do it yourself and step by step

The term "gander" has taken root in everyday life, and is used even by professional plumbers more often than the correct name "spout". All variants of breakdowns in this part of the mixer have three forms of manifestation, each of which is worthy of separate consideration.

Leaking in the area of the nut

A common problem that manifests itself in the leakage of water at the point of attachment to the body of the mixer. The reason that the mixer in the bathroom flows from under the gander is simple and trivial - the sealing gasket at the junction has worn out. Replacing this part is within the power of any home craftsman, and the procedure will be as follows:

Purchase a new O-ring of the correct size.
With an adjustable wrench or open-end wrench of a suitable size, unscrew the union nut at the junction of the spout and the body.
To avoid scratching the coating, place a thick cloth between the key and the nut.
Rotate the gander to remove it from the body. It will take some effort here.
To remove a worn gasket, pry it with a knife or other thin object at hand.
Install a new gasket in its place by inserting it into the O-ring.
Lubricate the gasket with a lubricant that will facilitate installation and will prevent the seal from stripping when screwed in. A simple liquid soap will work, but buying silicone leave-in grease at a plumbing store is a good idea.
Insert the spout into the body, press firmly and hand-tighten the union nut.
Wrap the nut with a cloth to protect the cover and tighten gently.

Correct seal

Rubber gaskets are not the best option for repairs. The pads for the gander of the mixer in the bathroom, made of paronite, have proven themselves excellently. This material expands in volume under the influence of moisture, completely filling the space, and guaranteeing the tightness of the connection.

Weak tap water pressure

Over time, you may notice that the water pressure gets weaker. This problem is typical of modern aerator-equipped faucets. The spout in them is equipped with a variety of nets that dilute the jet with air, making it more voluminous and reducing water consumption. These nets are clogged with solid particles from the water supply network, and limescale is deposited on them, blocking individual holes. This situation can affect both the gander for the faucet in the kitchen and in the bathroom, and it is solved by simple cleaning:

Unscrew the aerator. The round shape is unscrewed by hand, so you have to make physical effort, wearing rubber gloves so that your hands do not slip. The task is simplified if there is a cut. Then just use an adjustable wrench or open-end wrench, laying a cloth to preserve the coating.
Remove all nets and rinse them to remove sand and other debris. Table vinegar or citric acid solution, in which the nets should be soaked, will help get rid of scale. You can also restore the throughput manually by cleaning the cells with a needle. Assemble the aerator by installing all parts in reverse order.
If the aerator has a non-separable design, rinse it from dirt and remove scale by soaking in a weak acid.
Install the gasket. If you do not change it, then make sure that it becomes the same side as before. During operation, the surface of the seal is deformed, and turning it the other side you will not get a tight connection. Screw the aerator back onto the spout.

Such work can be carried out prophylactically, without waiting for the weakening of the pressure. Prevention is especially important if the water has high hardness.

Gander-shower mode switch repair

Breakdowns in this area are just as common as a situation where the mixer flows from under the nipple. The repair procedure will depend on the type of switch and the nature of the problem, so first decide which mixer you have installed.

Plug switch

You won't find this on modern models, but they continue to be used, since they have a very long service life and high fault tolerance. The problem with the plug switch can be as follows:

Too much force has to be applied to switch modes. This indicates that the clamping nut is too tight.
The switch is leaking. This happens when there is uneven wear of the contacting parts - the plug or the body of the mixer.

Both problems have the same solution. You need to unscrew the connection and lubricate the plug with plumbing silicone grease. It is resistant to drying and will provide good contact with unevenly worn surfaces. Do not overtighten the nut when assembling the switch.

Push button switch

The most common in modern models, in which the button on the gander shuts off the water, directing it into the shower. In this position, the button is fixed by a spring, which is held by the flow of water. When the valve is closed, the spring returns to its original position. Typical problems with this design look like this:

The switch does not completely shut off the water. As a result, it flows from both the shower and the spout at the same time. The reason lies in the partial or complete wear of the rubber valve that redistributes the water flows. If it is possible to find a valve on sale, then it can be replaced, otherwise it remains only to change the mixer.
With a weak water pressure, the button returns to its original position. An excessively tight spring provokes such a situation. Unscrew the switch and bite off one turn of the return spring with the pliers. If that's not enough, take out one more turn and the switch will no longer cause complaints.
The faucet in the bathroom is leaking from the gander at the point where the modes are switched. It is common for the O-ring to wear out. Unscrew the switch to find out the required size of the seal, buy a new one and replace it. The correct diameter can be found in the mixer repair kit for sure.

Keg switch

In this design, turning the lever 1/4 turn offsets the eccentric located inside the plastic or brass barrel. Such a switch does not differ in fault tolerance, manifesting itself in the following breakdowns:

When you turn the switch, the water does not shut off, continuing to flow from the tap. This problem indicates the wear of the gasket or the bolt that fixes it. Repair consists in replacing a worn part.
It is impossible to set the switch to the extreme position. Attempts to turn on the shower end up with a spout and shower head. The culprit in this case is a worn-out keg, which will have to be replaced with a new one.
Leakage in the area of the switch. A common occurrence when the gasket is worn out. To return to working capacity, the mixer will have to unscrew the switch and replace the seal.

Ceramic switch

Here, the mode change is made by a full turn of the lever. There is a ceramic cartridge inside the structure, and the tightness is ensured by Teflon or fluoroplastic gaskets. Such mixers are not subject to natural wear and tear, and all breakdowns are explained by violation of operating rules:

Poor water quality. If you've chosen a faucet with a ceramic switch, take the trouble to put filters at the entrance to your house or apartment. The central water supply can bring surprises in the form of sand or scale from the pipes that jam the cartridge.
Illiterate repair. Physical force when trying to unscrew a jammed cartridge will break the ceramic plates or retainers.

In this case, only replacing the cartridge will help. Remove the switch handle and flare nut, take out the cartridge and replace it with a new one.

How to change a gander in a bathroom or kitchen faucet

If the manufacturer has saved on materials, a complete replacement of the spout may be required, as the coating on it is quickly damaged, and the corrosion resistance is poor. In this case, you have to remove the gander from the mixer in the kitchen or bathroom, and replace it entirely.

Don't forget about the sizes

Soviet-made faucets have a ½ "spout, and now only models with a ¾" thread are available. Consider this point when buying, as it will be impossible to install a gander with a nut of the wrong size on a bathroom faucet.

Replacement will require you to do the following:

Close the valves on the riser. Theoretically, you can do without this, but it is better to hedge against surprises.
Wrap the union nut at the base of the spout with a cloth to protect it from damage.
Unscrew the nut using an open-end wrench or adjustable wrench of a suitable size.
Turning the gander along the axis, remove it from the body.
Apply plumbing silicone grease to the o-ring and threads of the new gander. If the kit comes with a rubber seal, it is better to replace it with paronite.
Place the spout in the body, press firmly and screw on the clamping nut.
Tighten the nut slightly with a wrench without overtightening.

There is nothing difficult in replacing, and you will quite cope with the task, even if you have never done it before.

Insure against breakdowns: how to choose a quality gander

When buying such a simple part, it is enough to pay attention to the main characteristics so that the issue of repair is not relevant for a long time. The future acquisition will be assessed by the following parameters:

Swivel or non-swivel. If the mixer has to service the bathtub and the washbasin installed next to it, there is no choice, and you will have to buy a swivel model. In other cases, it is better to buy a non-rotary mixer, insuring yourself against leaks in the connection area.
Mount location. For installation on a bath, a model in which the gander is attached to the bottom of the body is preferable - this reduces the height of the water drop and the accompanying noise. Only top-mounted faucets can be installed on a washbasin or sink. For the kitchen, take a look at kitchen faucets with a flexible gander - it is convenient to adjust them in length and height, adjusting to the dimensions of the dishes or sinks.
The presence of an aerator. This is a highly desirable option that reduces water consumption by increasing the volume of the jet with air, which is especially true for homes with meters. Even if you have your own well, and the water consumption is irrelevant, think about the amount of wastewater, because calling sewage equipment is also an expensive pleasure.
Locking nut diameter. When replacing the spout, be sure to make sure the purchase fits the faucet body. If you are not sure about the parameters of the old gander, take it with you in order to choose the right one on the spot.
Aerator shape. Cleaning the aeration nets will sooner or later become necessary, so it is better to choose cut models. You will have to sweat to unscrew the round aerator.
Material. It is impossible to see what the part is made of under the chrome finish, so ask the seller for documents confirming that the gander is made of brass. Instead, silumin, a fragile, easily deformable material, may appear under the chrome. You can just try the chosen spout by weight: the brass one will be three times heavier.
Length. This does not affect the functionality of the mixer in any way, but it is advisable to choose a model with such a spout length that the water jet falls directly onto the drain hole. Such a trifle will significantly reduce the amount of splashes, which, when dried, form streaks on the mirror, walls and furniture around.

Video instructions for eliminating leaks on the gander rod

A short video in which the wizard will tell you in detail about disassembling a flat spout and eliminating a leak:

Now replacing or repairing the gander will not cause you any difficulties. Well, if you still have to replace the kitchen faucet, be sure to study this material, which gives good advice on choosing and provides a rating based on consumer feedback.