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Correct connection of the water supply. How to make tap water input into the house

Self-assembly the connection line to the water supply in the end not only results in savings on the services of the contractor, but also gives confidence that all the works were made in full compliance with the technology. Today, we will tell you how to organize the introduction of water into a private house.

Solving organizational issues

Before you get permission to connect to the water pipe, you need to register a new customer. This is in many respects the developer's interest - the availability of the project in a common base will help shift responsibility for damage to underground communications to those who did it.

In addition, a potential customer is given a set of documents that make up the technical conditions for the project. This includes the image of the pipeline route, the depth of its laying and removal from the main landmarks, the material and diameter of the pipe, other local conditions and notes. To receive this set, you must write an application addressed to the head of the local branch of the water canal or a person who replaces him on this issue.

The received technical conditions are the initial data of the project, on their basis a set of working documentation is compiled, including:

calculation of water consumption and volume of wastewater;
layout diagrams in axonometry;
floor plans for the water supply and sanitation facilities;
drawings and diagrams accounting units , distribution and preparation of water;
scheme of land improvement and a list of irrigation equipment, if any.

An example of an axonometric diagram of a water supply system at home

The user himself can study the requirements for the design of water supply systems and compile the project himself, but in this case it will be necessary to indicate by the originator of a certified specialist with the SRO's permission to design this type, a copy of which is necessarily attached to the project. The project serves as the basis for concluding an agreement between the water supplier and its consumer.

After payment, everything, as a rule, already depends on the artist. But you can take in the hands and the technical side of the question, right up to an independent tie into the system. It is important to perform the work in strict compliance with the regulatory requirements, otherwise your connection will not be inspected.

Earthwork: digging a trench under the track

According to the project marking, the excavation of the soil is carried out with a strip about 30 cm across. Usually the main pipe is laid along the shortest path, but 2 meters to the point of the tie-in turns to the municipal pipeline at right angles. The section in a meter from the main pipe is dug out with a broadening to 50-60 cm, the pipeline itself is cleared from the ground to a clearance of 250 mm on each side.

Problems arise when working on the roadway. To cross the road with a covering, it will be necessary to drive the casing without cutting the canvas and opening the preparatory mound. Here you can not do without special equipment, a puncture under the road - a rather complex engineering problem.

Crossing the trench dirt road is much easier, but here it is also possible difficulties. The fact is that when carrying out works by the contractors of the water canal, most of such projects are closed in one working day: the trench is dug out, the pipe cuts into and is laid to the technical well. Then the master signs the act of the executed works, the pipe is covered with a backfill and an alarm tape, and the ground is poured back.

If the works are carried out independently, the inspection can be delayed for several days, so you need to install a decking above the trench for transportation. This is not so difficult: across the track laid wooden beams or trimming logs with a length of 80-100 cm under them make small digging and podmashivayut on the brick in every point of support. Across the beams, that is, in the direction of the trench, the planking of boards of 3-3.5 meters in length is lost. Do not forget to protect the working area with warning strips with retroreflective strips.

Trunking

The way of branching of the main pipe depends on its material. For HDPE and plastic pipes The tapping is carried out by fitting a tee fitting with a lateral branch of 25-32 mm. It is very important that there be as few threaded connections as possible in this assembly, so the adapter kegs are not welcome.

Metal and cast-iron pipes branch out with the help of overhead clamps for tie-in. A part of the collar with the tap is packed into a paste-sealant, the most reliable will be displayed by the mastic for the planting of automobile glass. The contact area of the clamp with the pipe must be cleaned of dirt and rust, and provide good adhesion to the sealant.

Overhead clamp - good way crash into the main of any material under pressure. To remove the yoke immediately packed ball valve, then a hole is drilled. Drill can be protected from water by cutting the top of the bottle.

The exact same method can be used for steel pipes, on which the threaded end is pre-welded. It is important to pierce the pipe with a drill bit on the flight, quickly pull it out and close the tap. Therefore, the drill must be powerful, and you need to drill at high speeds and with a strong feed. A sufficient diameter of the hole is 14-18 mm, depending on the passage of the pipe.

Bed under the pipe, insulation

The injection pipe should lie 15-25 cm below the depth of freezing of the soil. The bottom of the trench should be prepared with a padding that quickly passes water, for example, with sand or expanded clay. The height of the bed under the pipe is about 10 cm, another 5-6 cm is poured on top. With a shallow depth of penetration and unstable soils, it is recommended to distribute the load with a layer of fine gravel in 3-4 cm or lay a trench with brick before filling with soil.

1 - sandy padding; 2 - water pipe; 3 - brick; 4 - ground

It often happens that the level of the trench is lower than that of the trunk pipe. Deceived by the principle "if it flows there, then it does not freeze", you run the risk of losing water in winter season. The fact is that pipes with a constant circulation do not have time to form ice, but a stagnant liquid at the same depth will instantly clog the pipe.

Therefore, the pipeline is laid in the freezing ground only when absolutely necessary, for example, at the entrance to the house or at the point of the tie-in. In these places, the entry areas are considered vulnerable and need to be insulated or heated. If you do not use a composite pipe with insulation, the problem is solved by paving over the sand layer of PSB-plates or extruded polystyrene, and the pipe turns around on the sides.

Want to improve the comfort of living in a country house or at the cottage? Then you certainly need to run your own water supply. The task becomes more complicated if the house was built long ago. Before we draw water from the well to the house, we recommend reading our article.

Preparation for basic works

So, in order to carry the water from the well into the house, the following equipment should be purchased:

A special storage tank for storage of water is a hydraulic accumulator.

Pumping station.
A water purification system installed on a pipe that supplies water.
A water heater with a storage tank that provides sufficient volume hot water.

The organization of water supply can be carried out with the help of special pumps:

Submersible units placed directly in the well. With their help, water can be raised to a height, even exceeding 200 m.
Surface aggregates provide a water lift of about 9 m, they are usually used for pumping water from wells. They are not provided for immersion in the source.

For high-quality maintenance of the well, the caisson should be equipped, it will, inter alia, protect the source from penetration of subcutaneous or groundwater. The caisson should be so equipped that it is possible to descend to inspect the well, repair faults in connections and other things.

Try to lay out yourself from the brick or pour concrete on the base of the caisson. And you can do it more simply by arranging its arrangement of plastic rings sold in specialized stores. The bottom should be covered with sand and rubble, and then proceed to pour it with concrete. The caisson and the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil, otherwise the idea with its arrangement will be meaningless. Its dimensions can vary from 1.5x1.5 m to the sides. A ledge above the surface should not exceed 30 cm. An external waterproofing of the walls of the caisson is carried out, and for this they are coated with hot bitumen, then a roll-on waterproofing is applied. The caisson is closed from above with a special lid that would match the parameters. For example, concrete rings should be covered with a suitable cover with a hatch.

It is very important to provide in the wall of the caisson a special hole for installation of the external pipeline.

Preparing tools for pipeline installation

The use of metal-plastic pipes is an economical option for water supply. Between the two layers of polyethylene is an interlayer of aluminum. Smooth surface of such pipes prevents the development of rust and the accumulation of all kinds of salts. The inner aluminum layer is protected by the outer layer of polyethylene against solar radiation and, accordingly, from the formation of condensate. However, an essential disadvantage of such pipes is their deformation when water is heated above 95 ° C.

Copper piping is the best, but also the most expensive product for installing a water supply system. The installed water pipe is sufficiently stable in relation to corrosion, and also is not afraid of aggressive bio-environment and ultraviolet. Excellent cope with temperature changes and increased pressure in the system. Copper has an excellent heat dissipation.

Steel pipes are no less reliable and relatively durable, their main drawback is the rapid development of rust both from the inside and from the outside. During the installation process metal pipes you will need to either use a welding machine, or do threading on each individual element.

Polypropylene pipes have become especially popular today, because they have excellent operational parameters and are not oxidized. The duration of their operation can reach 50 years. Polypropylene pipes it is convenient to install. Connections of such pipes are so strong that the pipeline can be hidden under a layer of plaster. Their main drawback is that the installation must be carried out with a specially designed soldering iron or electric welding.

Installation collector system implies the use of a large number of pipes. The cost of the water pipe depends more on the choice of the material from which the pipes are made.

If you talk about the tools, then to install a water pipe made of steel or copper, you will need linen winding, wrenches, and gas and a drawbar. In addition, adapters, couplings, plugs and sleeves of appropriate dimensions will be useful. If your choice fell on metal-plastic pipes, then you will need fittings, a set of spanners, as well as a gas and a wrench, a FUM-tape. For installation polypropylene water supply You will need a soldering iron with different nozzles.

Install the pump in the well

Firstly, at the pump outlet we install a check valve to prevent water hammering. Then fix the crimp clutch and connect it to the outside of the pipeline. Fastening lugs are used to safely lower the pump into the well. We pass through them a galvanized cable in the plastic sheath and fix it with metal clamps. Now you need to attach a pipe to the cable, and after the power cable with an interval of about 2 m. Lower the pump into the well so that it does not reach to the bottom by about 1 m. How can this be achieved? First, we lower the device to the bottom, and then make a mark on the pipe or cable, which will help us to lift it exactly one meter from the bottom.

If we need to immerse the pump or unload it, then we use a tripod with a winch, which is usually used to drill a well. After immersing the unit, we need to fix the cable in the head. For this we put it on the casing. We will wait about ten minutes, so that the unit is filled, this will allow us to check the quality of its operation.

Not only in the caisson, but also in the foundation, there must be heat and waterproofing, namely in the hole for the pipe. After we bring the pipe into the space under the floor, it is necessary to conduct its warming, since the bottom of the basement may have a minus temperature during the winter. This is especially appropriate if the basement is not insulated.

After we have carried the water into the house, it is necessary to connect the accumulator, which reduces the number of inclusions and cuts of the pump and protects it from water hammering, provides a water supply. It is an airtight container, divided into two compartments. In one of them there is water, and in the other - air. If our pump gives a very high head of water, then before the accumulator we install a pressure switch regulating the head. We will also consider installing water purification filters. However, before we test the water for taste, smell and color. We will make her a fence to conduct her examination in the laboratory.

Optional equipment

If the well is shallow, that is not more than 8 meters, then for the water supply of the house you need to use a pumping station. It consists of the following elements:

Different types and models of pumps.
Storage tanks.
Membrane hydroaccumulators.
TENs, electric boilers and water heaters.

goal pumping station is to ensure the supply of water directly to the water supply system. This is a special automated complex equipment that creates the necessary pressure of water.

For optimal operation of the pump, care should be taken to ensure that it is positioned as close as possible to the water usage points. For example, in a separate room from home. This can be in the basement or basement. In this case, the rooms must be heated to prevent frost.

During the connection of the station, you should take care that a pipe with a bronze or brass fitting fits to it. Then it should connect a drain cock and tee, and then connect check valve. This will allow the water to be shut off in the event of an accident or repair work.

Connect the ball valve for water supply.

After the filter is connected with a metal stainless mesh.

Now connect the station to the damper tank, as well as the pressure switch.

Then the sensor is the so-called dry pump stroke.

Finally, the fine filter with the transition to the pipe 2.5 cm.

However, if the pump is installed in the well, and all the equipment for it is indoors, then the accumulator (damper tank) must be mounted from the bottom and the pressure switch on top. But to install a damper tank is not necessary, because in its role can act a barrel, installed in the basement or in the attic. Water will be under pressure, provided by its volume and mass.

Installing a water purification system

Before determining the water treatment system, you should give the water for inspection in a chemical laboratory. Depending on the presence of impurities and mineral salts, it is necessary to choose a filtration system. If you decide to install a hydraulic accumulator, then after it should be a system of water purification. The distance between them is up to 1 m. Then it is necessary to divide the water into two separate streams: a water pipe leaving the collector for supply cold water and a water pipe leaving the boiler or dHW system. When entering the flow of cold water, stop valves. This method should be equipped with each pipe. The number of inputs and outputs in the collector is determined by how many water points in the house will be installed.

The completed water supply route means providing the house with both cold and hot water. With this in mind, a drain valve should be placed on the pipe under the heating device. Moreover, it is mounted expansion tank, and safety valve. The drain cock must also be at the outlet of hot water from the heating device. After that, connect to the DHW hot water collector and dilute the water in all planned rooms.

That's all, the water supply to the house from the well is complete! Before starting the operation of the system, we check its operability and absence of leaks. If everything works well, then you can start the system!

Do you have experience in laying water from a well into a house? Did you have any difficulties in the process of doing this work? What helped you to cope with them? Write comments to the article. Your experience is valuable to us!

Video

We present to your attention a video in which you can see all the stages of conducting water from a well to a house:

Autonomous water supply is a necessary, but very important thing. You will not only develop a source, but also ensure uninterrupted supply of water with the necessary pressure, chemical composition and volume. We will tell you how to bring water into the house from the well with your own hands, and how to connect and adjust necessary equipment.

Autonomous water supply system

What it consists of

The system of autonomous water supply is a complex of means ensuring the lifting of water from the well, its transportation, accumulation, creation of the necessary pressure parameters, as well as the management and coordination of the operation of all elements of the system.

Modern technical and material capabilities make it possible to create a completely autonomous and automated water supply system, so we will consider just such a version of the equipment.

So, the composition of the well water pipeline includes:

. Most wells have a depth greater than 8 meters, so it is necessary to use the submersible unit;
Nipple with double-sided external thread, check valve and coupling for connecting the pump outlet to the lifting pipe;
Water-lifting pipe. It is important to choose a product that can withstand the pressure according to the depth of the well, it is better to use metal-plastic or polymer models, we recommend low-density polyethylene (HDPE) pipes;
Power cable for the pump motor and the seal (waterproof terminal);
A fitting for the transition from a vertical pipe to a horizontal one. It can be a knee or a tee, depending on the features of the routing of the pipes;
Well head. This product is a sealed cover on screw terminals with a terminal for the pipe and cable, and also with fasteners for the safety rope;
Horizontal pipe for transporting water from source to house. It is also better to use a HDPE pipe of the same diameter;
A set of fittings for connection of the receiver: rotary couplings, angle filter, nipple. Depending on the characteristics of the pipe configuration, this set may change;
Hydraulic accumulator tank (receiver) for 200 liters. It is better to use plastic products with a membrane, equipped with a pressure gauge and a pressure switch;
Magnetic starter, the terminals of which close / open the pump supply circuit. The starter is controlled by the operational current from the pressure switch of the receiver. Set to start up powerful pumps with large starting currents;
Pump control station, allowing manual start and restart of the device;
The water level sensor in the well and the emergency shutdown relay of the pump when the water level falls below the permissible level.

Important! Submersible pump and the elements of the control automatics should be as high-quality as possible, therefore we do not recommend saving and buying products of doubtful manufacturers.

Pump immersion and connection

Let's get down to business.

To begin with, it is necessary to assemble a system of water lifting to the surface:

We take the pump, and into its outlet hole screw the nipple with the external thread. Then turn the non-return valve onto the nipple, and screw it into the coupling for connection to the HDPE pipe (the coupling is usually 32 / in);

We connect the coupling with a water-lifting pipe, previously cut to size. The motor power cable is laid along the pipe and fixed to it with electrical tape or clamps every 2 to 3 meters;

In the mounting holes on the body of the pump we pass the safety wire (usually comes complete) and fasten it with two clamps on the bolts;

We take the pump and for the pipe carefully lower it into the well, try not to touch the walls of the casing. Distance to the bottom - not less than 1 - 2 meters. The dynamic water level in the well must be at least 5 meters above the pump;

The upper end of the pipe is passed through the hole in the borehole and clamped, and we also feed the cable. The safety wire is attached to a special ring on the underside of the head cover;

We connect the cable to the 220 V network and perform a trial run of the pump. If the water does not go immediately - pull it with the mouth of the pipe, it may not have triggered the check valve because of the air in the system;

If the water goes - it means that the first stage is over.

Important! If a non-return valve is already provided in the pump design, it is better to duplicate it with a brass product, since it is much more reliable: the price good pump is too great to take risks.

Underground pipeline

Now, in fact, about how to get water from the well. For these purposes, it is better to use a polyethylene pipe, since it is sold in coils, and you have the opportunity to select the length of the length to avoid unnecessary connections.

Also, a rotary joint for HDPE pipes and a set of additional fittings are useful. Use only high-quality products, we recommend to stop the choice on the Italian manufacturers.

So, the instruction for laying pipes from the well to the house:

At the depth of freezing of the soil (for each region its own, the average strip of Russia - about 5 meters) dig a trench from the well to the house. It is better to build communication on the shortest straight line, since then there will be no need for rotary docking nodes, and the consumption of materials will be lower;

At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of sand 10 - 20 cm high, with a slight slope towards the well (1% will be enough). We put a pipe on this padding;

We put one end of the hose into the caisson and connect it with a knee and fittings with a water-lifting pipe;

The second end we put in a special hole in the foundation of the house or the basement, we place the entrance place with a plastic bushing and carefully seal it with silicone or other sealant;

Pipe the pipe with a layer of sand so that it is sheltered to a height of 15 cm, then cover the trench with earth. Stones in the earth should not come across, trample it is impossible.

In the lower part of the pipe it is better to provide drainage in case of conservation of the site for the winter.

Important! If it is not possible to deepen the pipeline below the freezing level of the soil, then it should be insulated with a special casing of expanded polystyrene, inside which it is better to enclose heating cable, which is connected to the temperature relay. Also come with an input area located on or close to the surface.

Connecting the receiver

As we have already said, the water supply system should not only deliver water to the consumer, but also ensure the pressure and productivity, acceptable for normal operation of the sanitary equipment. A submersible pump can create enough high pressure, but it will be unstable, and when the crane is suddenly locked, a hydrostatic shock can occur.

In addition, if the pump is connected directly to the water pipe, the pump motor will turn on whenever the tap is opened in any plumbing fixture (sink, sink, bathroom, toilet, etc.). This will adversely affect the life of the engine, the mechanics of the pump, as well as the power failure nodes on the relay or starter.

Therefore, a hydroaccumulator is required, which will store water under pressure and feed it to the consumer. When the pressure in the tank drops below a certain level, the pressure switch that will close the pump motor power circuit will trip and it will pump the required volume of water. If the capacity of the tank is 100 liters or more, then for an average family number of pump starts will be small, and it will last a long time.

As a rule, the tank volume of the receiver is calculated based on a ratio of 20 liters per crane, including a toilet bowl, watering plants and others.

We stopped at putting a pipe into the house. Go ahead:

We connect the pipe entry through a coupling with a five-way connection. The coupling is screwed onto the inch hole through the nipple with the union nut;

At the inlet of the receiver, wind the angular elbow, which is prolonged by a piece of pipe of the required length. If possible, we use a flexible hose with a crane instead of a pipe and a knee;

The end of the receiver tube is connected through a ball valve with a union nut with any free inch opening of the union. If a hose with a tap is used, its end is simply wound through the adapter ("American") at the opening of the union;

A manometer is connected to the 1/4 inch hole;
A pressure switch is connected to an unused 1/4 "hole;

The remaining inch of the open socket of the distribution socket is connected through a tap with a union nut with a water pipe going to the consumer;

The pump power cable is connected to the relay terminals, which will start and stop. The switching circuit is simple and is described in the instructions to the relay. If a starter is required, then the coil is fed through the relay, and the pump is connected to the starter terminals;

Separately we feed the pump cable through a manual switch, designed for the starting current of the engine with a double reserve;

With the help of a manual toggle switch we start the pumping equipment and wait until the tank is full, and the system will automatically turn off the pump motor power. We isolate the pressure of the shutdown from the manometer. Then we open a few taps and let the water run until the system again starts the pump, we also fix the pressure value;

We verify the obtained values with the passport characteristics of the receiver, and, if necessary, adjust the relay.

Conclusion

Installation of an autonomous water supply system is a very important task, consisting of many stages. Nevertheless, the whole complex of works can be done independently, following the points of our manual ().

On the video in this article the process is shown more clearly.