Ventilation for plastic windows - the secret of well-being
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"
Quite often I have to face the opinion that plastic windows with ventilation (at least with high-quality ones) are practically incompatible. This is presented almost as the main disadvantage of PVC structures: they say that the old wooden products, although they were “siphon”, let the air through!
In principle, claims to the excessive tightness of plastic windows are partially justified, but only partially. Be that as it may, after installing such structures, the issue of airing the room will have to be solved from scratch, and below I will tell you how this can be done.
Why is it necessary?
From my point of view, forced ventilation in an apartment with plastic windows is not a matter of choice, it is a matter of necessity. Yes, you can not install special devices for, but you will have to organize an inflow - otherwise we will be forced to breathe stale air, which will lead to quite predictable health problems.
This situation is explained simply:
- Wooden windows (especially rather old ones), along with an extensive list of shortcomings, had one advantage - they provided fresh air. Yes, this inflow was minimal, yes, it was accompanied by drafts and heat losses - but at the same time it was enough for partial air exchange.
- For plastic windows, tightness is practically mandatory: both the design of the sash, the seals, and the fittings provide the tightest possible rebate. But by keeping warm, we lose fresh air, because it will simply have nowhere to come from.
- There is a second, not so obvious minus. If there is no inflow, then there will be no exhaust, which means that unpleasant odors will not be removed from the apartment. In the kitchen, an extractor hood with a motor will cope (although its efficiency suffers in such a situation), but in other rooms the mustiness will “settle” very quickly.
- Finally, do not forget about moisture. To normalize the humidity in the room, it is necessary that excess water is removed into the ventilation system. If there is no normal circulation (and where does it come from - the ventilation in the plastic windows is blocked due to the hermetic porch), then all the water will remain in the apartment. Hello, on the windows, hello, fungus - come in, settle down, all conditions have been created for you!
In general, as you understand from this very emotional introduction, ventilation in a room with plastic windows is a rather relevant issue. To ensure the flow of fresh air and normalize its circulation, additional measures must be taken, otherwise the concentration of carbon dioxide and water vapor will steadily increase (plus dust, plus fungal spores - in general, there is little good).
Arrangement methods
Ventilation through the porch
Supply ventilation on plastic windows can be implemented in several ways. The simplest, and most obvious, is ventilation. In any case, it is on him that most buyers of PVC structures are counting.
In fairness, I should note that the ventilation in modern window models is relatively well organized. In any case, there are several design solutions that provide air exchange with different intensity.
The most common I will describe in the table below:
| Mechanism | Use for ventilation |
| Swivel opening | Actually, the simplest technique: we simply open the sash and let in fresh air. It is used mainly for "volley" ventilation, and in summer - then in general the windows are in the open position all the time. The main inconvenience is related to safety, especially if there are children or cats in the house. The risk of slamming the sash with a gust of wind also exists, but it can be minimized by installing a special limiter or latch. |
| Tilting opening | The ability to open the sash "on a tilt" is an important plus of PVC-structure fitting systems. In this position, the window lets in enough air, but at the same time remains quite safe. |
| Slit ventilation | This option is very convenient for constant use in the warm season. An additional element is built into the fittings complex, which allows, when the handle is turned by 450, to slightly open the sash, leaving a small gap around the perimeter for constant air access. |
| Stepped ventilation | An option that combines the advantages of the previous two. By changing the position of the window handle, we get the opportunity to adjust the width of the gap between the sash in the hinged position and the frame: from minimal to almost completely open. |
All of these mechanisms have one key drawback: they only work if we remember to set the window to ventilate. And this means that in the cold season we will be practically deprived of fresh air, especially at night: who will leave the window in the bedroom ajar, if every degree counts anyway!
In addition, a window whose sash is fixed in the half-open position (even if there is only a small gap) is more vulnerable to penetration from the outside. And if a mosquito net protects us from insects, then it will be much easier for an attacker to deal with the locking system. So the owners of private houses, as well as apartments on the first and (paradoxically, but it is) the last floors, fall into the risk group.
In general, there are enough shortcomings, so today plastic windows with a supply ventilation valve are becoming more and more popular.
Supply valves
To ensure the flow of air into a room with an installed metal-plastic window, special devices are increasingly being used. They automatically or manually regulate the flow of air into the room, while working almost constantly.
There are several models of inlet valves on the market:
- Wall - appeared first of all, but at the same time they do not lose popularity to this day. To install such a valve, a hole is drilled in the wall, which does not affect the window in any way. The valve operates in one-way mode, i.e. just lets in air. The intensity of work is regulated by either a mechanical or electronic system.
- Window mechanical - the simplest and most compact devices. By and large, such a supply valve is a sash that closes the hole in the upper part of the window frame. Need an inflow - the hole is open, not needed - completely closed or to a minimum air transmission.
- Window hygroscopic - the most modern, in my opinion, models. Inside such a valve there is a sensor that reacts to humidity: as soon as this parameter rises above a certain level, the flap opens, letting in fresh air. This allows you to adjust the intensity of air exchange depending on the level of oxygen consumption.
The main advantage of hygroscopic valves is that they cannot be completely blocked: air exchange (at least minimal) will go on in any case. The downside is the price - for example, the cost of the Aereco valve ranges from 4200 to 6600 rubles, depending on the power and configuration.
In most cases, the window ventilation system is mounted on top of the frame. This allows you to compensate for heat loss: cold air enters the upper part of the room, i.e. to the warmest place. Until it drops to a level of 1.5 -1.7 m, it will warm up enough so that we do not feel discomfort.
The method of self-installation of the supply valve
Windows with a ventilation valve really provide effective air exchange, so this solution can be considered optimal for most houses and apartments. And although the valve itself is not cheap, we can save at least through installation.
I have repeatedly installed window ventilation with my own hands, so I will share with you a brief algorithm of actions:
- I remove the window sash from the hinges, after which I dismantle the elements of the fittings from above from it.
- On the overlap of the sash (a protrusion adjacent to the frame), I apply the valve mounting plate, and I make markings on it for sawing holes.
- I remove the mounting plate and use a drill to drill a few holes. Then, with a thin hand saw or electric jigsaw, I connect the holes, forming a ventilation groove.
- Exactly the same groove I cut out on the overlay of the frame from the outside. Before this, by the way, it may be necessary to dismantle the strikers.
You will have to work at height, so insurance is required!
- I lubricate the mounting plate from the wrong side with silicone sealant, apply it to the installation site and fix it on the surfacing of the sash with self-tapping screws.
- I return the fittings to the place and hang the sash on the hinges.
- Outside, I attach a visor to the frame: a regular one that protects against debris, equipped with an insect net or acoustic. The latter variety is somewhat more expensive and partially reduces air transmission, but its use can reduce the noise level.
- From the side of the room on the mounting plate I snap the valve fasteners. I set the mode of operation I need and check the intensity of the inflow.
Almost all supply valves are mounted according to this scheme. The differences are only in the details, but here the instructions from the manufacturer will help you figure it out.
Conclusion
Supply ventilation on PVC windows is not only very useful, but also vital. That is why you should carefully study all the possibilities for organizing it, and choose the option that is right for you.
I still tend to install an inlet window valve, and if you are interested in this technology, then you should study the video in this article, and ask me any questions in the comments. I hope my experience is enough to help you make the right choice!
September 17, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!
