home Ventilation

Requirements for ventilation ducts: rules and regulations. How to arrange ventilation ducts in a private house: rules and guidelines for construction

In order to always have a comfortable temperature and humidity regime in the house, it must be equipped with well-designed ventilation. If this is not done, you can face many problems (condensation, dry air, etc.). This article will consider ventilation ducts in brick walls.

The need to create this element can not be overemphasized. Modern building materials, for example, are "not breathing", which creates an unfavorable climate in the house. Dry air and high levels of carbon dioxide often lead to a deterioration in human health.

Tip: many experts are confident that plastic windows are one of the main causes of lack of air.

In order to get rid of this problem, it is necessary to ensure good air circulation in all rooms. It is best to take care of this at the design stage. We will talk about all the nuances of this procedure below.

A bit of theory

At the beginning of our narration we will consider the most important theoretical aspects that need to be known. Without this knowledge, the procedure for creating a ventilation system will not succeed.

Ways of organization of ventilation system

Today, two methods of air circulation in the premises are actively used: natural and mechanical.

Natural

It assumes the implementation of air exchange due to the difference in pressure inside the building and beyond. Using this technique, fresh air will flow into the room through means of organized openings in the floors.

In this case, the brickwork of the ventilation ducts must be carried out during the construction phase of the house. In order to increase the efficiency of such a system, it is recommended to install a deflector into the channels.

This is a special aerodynamic device, which creates a region of low pressure. As the amplitude of this indicator increases, the thrust increases.

Mechanical

Such a project is much more difficult to implement with their own hands, but it gives a higher efficiency of the system. It consists in the use of various fans or ejectors. They are installed directly into the ventilation shafts.

It is worth noting the merits of this method:

Increased thrust several times, compared to the natural system.
Allows the installation of special filters that will purify the air of dust.
There is the possibility of creating climate control in the house due to the installation of split-systems.
It does not depend on weather conditions, therefore, it can create favorable conditions even in regions with a harsh climate.

Primary requirements

The first step is to get acquainted with the list of basic requirements in order to know what to strive for. These guidelines are contained in SNiP 2.04.05-86, which affects the aspect of ventilation and air conditioning.

The ventilation shaft made of bricks should be built only if there is a design scheme of the building and with observance of all rules and norms.
To remove air from heated rooms, it is necessary to create a ventilation system with a natural motivation. Combustion products from furnaces should be removed by means of a smoke channel.
To place ventilation ducts made of bricks is necessary taking into account fire safety rules. In particular, their location in the vicinity of the stoves or fireplaces is not allowed. If this rule is not taken into account, in the event of a fire, they become catalysts for ignition.
Lattices on ventkalah should be such that their cells are always open. It is desirable that they do not have vertical protrusions.

The dimensions of the ventilation ducts from the brick for the chimney must be such that the required cross-section is provided.

Choose it based on the heat output of the furnace:

14х14 cm - at a power of not more than 3.5 kW.
14x20 cm - at a power of 3.5-5.2 kW.
14x27 cm - at a power of more than 5.2 kW.

Factors on which the traction depends

In the cold season, the temperature difference between the street and the room will be considerable. In such a situation, the amount of air withdrawn is greatly increased. Simply put, the warmer on the street, the lower the thrust value is required.

Thrust is the speed of air flow. The amount of air withdrawn from the room depends directly on it. Also, this parameter is influenced by the cross-sectional area of the ventilation duct. The bigger it is, the stronger the pull.

As a result, it can be noted that for the cold regions of our country, more effective system ventilation.

Tip: the lower the temperature, the faster the condensation forms. Therefore, ventilation ducts in cold regions need to be covered with antiseptics.

If you read the above information, you decided to independently organize an air exchange system, then you certainly want to receive useful instructions.

We understand this and present to your attention a few important recommendations.

Masonry ventilation ducts made of bricks should be made of solid samples. Do not forget about the rules of dressing. It is best to design this element in advance.
As a rule, the dimensions of the ventilation ducts are 14х14 cm in brickwork, in turn the chimneys should be slightly larger - 27х14 cm. In this case, the thickness of the walls between must be at least half of the brick.
If you want to achieve the correct form and prevent clogging of mines, insert special inventory buoys into them. In fact, it is a hollow box made of plywood.

Tip: you need to make a box so that it fits into the canal without leaving any voids. Its height should be 9-10 rows of masonry.

To create channels you can use a conventional solution of cement and sand. Before applying, it is recommended to moisten the brick with water to improve its adhesion.
It is recommended to make the channels smooth, that is, without any roughness. Also, the presence of protrusions or depressions is not desirable, since they interfere with normal air circulation.

If there is a need to create a branch, then its length should be no more than 100 cm, and the angle of inclination is not less than 60 degrees, relative to the horizon.

In this case, the cross section in both parts of the channel must be equal, otherwise the thrust efficiency will be reduced. For the laying of inclined areas, it is necessary to use the bricks at the right angle.

In places close to the wooden structures, it is necessary to create a cutting of non-combustible materials. For this, asbestos is perfect.

It is also required to increase the thickness of the canal walls: up to 40 cm, if the structure is not protected, and up to 25 cm, otherwise.

For masonry, it is best to use double silicate brick m 150, as it has the required coefficient of frost resistance and thermal conductivity. However, the use of other samples is allowed.

Typical errors and solutions

Often people at the construction stage allow a lot of mistakes that lead to various problems. This is especially true for ordinary citizens who do not have a sufficient level of skills.

Therefore, we present to your attention a list of the most typical of them, as well as methods for their solution.

In a room without windows there is no ventilation duct - this leads to an increase in air humidity, which leads to the formation of fungus and mold. Solve this problem easily: it is enough to make it a separate channel with a throughput of 15m3 / h. To do this, you need to install exhaust ventilation by means of special pipes.
In the outer wall formed a hole, which promises to hit the room with cold air from the street. To solve this problem, install a fan in the hole formed (preferably with a humidity sensor).

In this case, the building brick near the fan should be covered with a hydrophobic compound, since moisture will constantly form in the hole.

In the internal doors there are no ventilation openings, which prevents efficient air circulation. It's easy to get out of such a situation with a winner - you need to insert decorative bushings or grilles in the door that will release polluted air. The total area of such apertures should be in the range of 80-150 cm2.

Too airtight windows. It is a plastic double-glazed window that prevents natural circulation air. This leads to a risk of the formation of carcinogenic substances, as well as the deterioration of the work of fireplaces and stoves.

Modern manufacturers of window frames are well aware of this lack of plastic, so they began to produce so-called "ventilators". These elements can be installed directly into the window or wall.

Tip: windows in which the infiltration ratio is in the range from 0.4 to 1 M, do not require the installation of additional ventilation. Therefore, before buying, ask the seller about this indicator.

Checking the ventilation ducts

In order to guarantee efficient air circulation in all rooms, ventilation channels must be checked regularly. It needs to be done in time and in full. Otherwise, there is a high probability of clogging of these elements.

As the instruction says, ventilation system should be checked:

Before the start of the heating season (the beginning or end of autumn, depending on climatic conditions).
Every three months, if the building has brick chimneys.
Once a year in the presence of chimneys from asbestos cement.

During the inspection of the ventilation duct, it is required to check the following aspects:

The conformity of the device and the materials used, in relation to the requirements of GOST.
Correspondence of sizes.
Absence of any contamination (soot, fungus, etc.).

Over time, the mine may have various natural formations that should be removed immediately

Unfortunately, the fire in most cases does not occur since the first test heating, as well as the lack of oxygen in the house and the presence of carbon monoxide is not felt on the first day - on the contrary, in the first months everything can be fine. But after a year of active operation of the problem chimney or defective ventilation ducts, an inflammation can occur, a disease may develop or engineering Communication just suddenly come to full disrepair. And therefore it is important not only to know the rules for the operation of chimneys and ventilation ducts of a residential building, but also to conduct timely audit and prevention, which this article will be about.

The official rules for the operation of chimneys and ventilation ducts can be downloaded in the .pdf format:

This small document is about how to check the chimneys and ventilation ducts in apartment house, and which bodies are involved in this control. But specifically in this article we will pay more attention to the safety of the operation of chimneys and ventilation ducts of a residential private house or a bath, which is not often talked about, although there are many important points. Read the article carefully - you will be surprised!

Any chimney is always the most dangerous source of fire in the house. And all because of the fact that the temperature flue gases is extremely high. Therefore, even the slightest violations of the installation of a chimney inside an apartment house can lead to dangerous consequences. But the chimney is important not only to correctly establish - it is important to use it correctly and take care of it.

What is included in the concept of fire safety?

To begin with, we offer a more detailed understanding of the concept of fire safety of chimney operation.

Fire safety is the state of the object (and we speak on the chimney), which is characterized by the ability to quickly prevent the occurrence and development of a fire. Fire safety of operation of an apartment house can be divided into the following: the safety of the floor, ceiling and walls that are next to you, as well as the safety of the chimney itself. This means that the insulation of the room should be not only effective, but environmentally friendly, so that when heated it does not emit any harmful substances.

In other words, not to be the source of those very chemical elements that cause cancer (carcinogens). Use only natural safe materials based on stone fibers, glass fiber and stainless steel.

The second point: the chimney must be properly installed and operated:

Monitoring of the heating temperature of single- and double-circuit chimneys

Fires, which lead to problems with the chimney, are often due to ignition of soot, and it lights up from high temperatures. What leads to this? For example, the highest temperature is produced by paper and burning plastic, followed by wood from certain types of wood.

Many believe that it is good, if the soot burns, you do not need to clean the chimney in the summer, but quite often it just destroys the inside of the chimney pipe, which is not prepared for such high temperatures. That is why the chimneys, which were originally designed by the manufacturer for low temperature conditions, and the burning temperature of their firewood are the least used, are also more fire-safe. Let's compare different types of wood according to the ability to burn hot in the oven:

Pine - 624 ° c;
Grab - 1022 ° c;
Poplar - 468 ° c;
Oak - 840-900 ° c;
Aspen - 612 ° with;
Larch - 865 ° c;
Ash, beech - 1044 ° c;
Birch - 816 ° with;
Alder - 552 ° c;
Acacia - 708 ° with.

Impressive? That's why, in addition to observing the general rules, you should always take care that the outer contour of the chimney can not heat up more than the metal from which it was made is calculated:

For example, the most frequent cause of fires in private houses and baths is a 0.5 mm stainless steel chimney, which is placed on wood-burning stoves, although it is intended initially only for gas. Unfortunately, to distinguish gas chimney from the wood, at first glance, it is difficult. You just need to read the label on the pipe and consult the seller.

But this is only one of two factors. The degree of heating of the external circuit depends also on what kind of internal insulation was used and what is its thickness:

Correct arrangement and functioning of the chimney of an apartment house

One of the most important rules for ensuring the fire safety of the chimney of a private house is the chimney's thermal insulation and the correct design of its construction.

Pay attention also that from the outer surface of such pipes to the roofing and rafters of the roof there must remain a distance that corresponds to what is prescribed in modern SNIPs 2.04.05-91:

For concrete and brick pipes it is 130 mm;
For ordinary ceramic (without additional thermal insulation) it is 250 meters;
For pipes in which insulation is present, this is also 130 mm;
For pipes assembled with a stainless steel sandwich module, this distance is 150-160 from the inner walls of the pipe (according to European standards)

We go further. Where the roof and the overlap are in contact with the chimney, the units must be made of non-combustible materials. These are mineral wool, metal plates, special treatment for wood with flame retardant mastic and other materials, which are full of modern shops of construction shops.

It is especially important to take care of the fire safety of the pre-furnace platform, if there is one, it is also made of non-combustible materials if it is being performed. Then you need to purchase ceramic tile, metal sheets or stone slabs. Well, if you still build a partition from the half-brick at the wall, where a stove or a fireplace is placed.

So, the safe operation of a chimney in a private house implies:

The chimney must be installed by a professional or, at least, inspected by him at the end of the installation.
Most of the chimney modules should be made of 400 series stainless steel, a thickness of not less than 0.8 mm, and the remaining parts are allowed from 300 stainless steel, but with a thickness that is no less than 1 mm.
A stove, a fireplace or a boiler are burned with the sort of firewood they are designed for.

And this is only the beginning! Chimney must be monitored, cleaned and protected throughout the period of its operation.

Self-inspection of the chimney of an apartment house

So, when self-inspection first check the chimney for the presence of cracks. Initially, the modules of the metal chimney must not only be connected to each other, but also smeared in the joints with a silicone sealant.

If we are talking about a brick chimney, the smoke from it, too, should not leak anywhere at all. If it does leak, this is evidence that oxygen is sucked into the chimney itself and reacts with the gases. In such a chimney, only if there is only one spark, it is easy to form a fire. But even a sandwich module from the fire burns inside and causes a fire.

Therefore, every year, step by step, you need to check your chimney for problems that may be initially invisible to the eye:

Pay special attention to the moment: is there a white coating on the walls? A fireplace stove or a stove with raw firewood is fraught with the fact that due to moisture on the walls of the chimney a white crust of moist soot forms, and the usual brush does not help - a special scraper is needed. And this is more complicated cleaning technology, because in this case it is easy to damage the surface of the chimney from the inside and give a place for corrosion. Therefore, if you have to resort to such a procedure, get a good brush from modern manufacturers, which are developed specifically for chimneys.

As you may have guessed, the most difficult situation is with a brick chimney. If a metal pipe was not specially inserted into it to protect its walls from corrosive soot, then it will have to be fought with a lot. Examine carefully this chimney: if you see a wort from the fragments of bricks, then the flue itself is already destroyed from the inside and urgent repairs are needed. Namely, the insertion of the pipe is the use. If this is not done on time, brick laying can be destroyed at any time.

For the use of dismantling part of the chimney and inserts the pipe, then make a new masonry brick. Naturally, all this can be organized only in the warm season, when the furnace does not work. But, in principle, the design itself, when a brick chimney holds an additional stainless steel pipe, is one of the most reliable.

But still, every six months, you need to inspect, clean and prevent such a chimney. If you suspect that the chimney can be problematic or firewood is not of the best quality, then what kind of prevention should be done every two months or even more often. And keep in mind that firewood from spruce and pine have a lot of pitches and are especially harmful to pipes - it's better to refuse them altogether.

Regular cleaning of the chimney from soot and internal blockage

And now a little entertaining physics. When burning wood from wood, white, translucent smoke is formed (there are water vapor in the wood), and black smoke becomes if fine carbon black is raised into the chimney.

At the end of the burning, only coal and ash remain, which do not burn with an open flame, but only smolder and react with atmospheric oxygen and also release carbon dioxide and water vapor. This is just the creosote that is allocated at this moment and represents the greatest danger for the chimney, because the water vapor that comes from the wood at this moment glues such particles and they settle not only on the walls of the chimney, but also on the details of the heater. And form thus resinous adjournment!

Let's talk about soot in the chimney (believe me, everything is more serious than you think). It appears when the fuel does not burn completely. And it depends on its type, quality, incoming air and combustion temperature.

The soot itself is pulverized, glossy and even porous.

For a fire pulverized only one spark is enough. This soot creates a porous substance on the walls of the chimney, consisting of ash and a small amount of coal. Even with a sharp increase in traction or ignition of paper, dusty soot is capable of catching fire, and a flame - to reach the top of the chimney. Such ignition usually leads to overheating and cracking in the pipe, but sparks that fly out of the chimney (especially when the weather is windy and hot) are still dangerous.
But the fire glossy soot leads to critical temperatures on the walls of the chimney. This soot creates a dense, flammable layer and can even reach 1000 degrees Celsius during combustion. This is an overload on the chimney, and if that old one or cracked, it risks simply not surviving. In this case, the ignition of such soot can be either fast or slow. With a fast upper temperature, in principle, does not have time to reach the maximum value, but slow burning can last up to several hours or heat the pipe walls so that cracks will appear. Slow burning glossy - the most dangerous, because it is accompanied by a strong gas generation, and smoke clouds create whole tubes in the tube.
Porous soot is not as dangerous as glossy, although it is similar in structure to it. On the walls of the chimney such a layer is formed when too hot flue gases enter the pipe. But everything is also subject to sudden fire.

All this greatly reduces the efficiency of the chimney, accelerates its wear and even provokes corrosion, and in particularly neglected cases, a real fire occurs. That's why, along with firewood, it is useful from time to time to put a chemical soot cleaner. It is made in different formats and different contents, but usually from a mixture of special crystals that act as catalysts in the combustion process, destroying the structure of tarry deposits. After that on the walls of the chimney there is only a fragile husk from the soot, and it, in turn, is easily split, burned and poured.

That is why it is so important to choose the reliable chimney pipe from the very beginning, because the manufacturers specifically indicate the resistance to ignition of soot in the passport. Therefore, if you have the opportunity now to purchase another chimney (if there are doubts in the old), which will withstand the necessary loads and even more. After all, there is a huge difference in whether you heat a fireplace or bake more for a decorative effect or a rare cooking (for example, a stove is in a barbecue-pergola, or this stove will heat your entire house). If you ignore at least one of the requirements of the manufacturer, then nothing good will end, believe me.

All the necessary measures to prevent and clean the chimney, we presented in the form of a step-by-step illustration:

Solving problems with condensate and soot on the chimney

If you are wondering where the condensate can come from in the chimney, let us explain in more detail. The moisture itself is in the air always, in any room - just in different quantities. It is not visible to the eye; is in a state of fine-dispersed droplets. In the house they are more than we say, in the workshop or in the attic.

And it is moisture that gets into the furnace with the air and the chimney, and in the cold part it condenses, settling on the pipes in the form of drops. And this condensate is bad not only for the chimney, as it corrodes it from the inside, but also on the plane that allows the soot to simply stick to the walls. As a result, due to the condensate, the thrust is broken, because the air passage becomes less and less. And, finally, moisture reacts with soot, forming a particularly aggressive acid, which gradually destroys the metal. The fewest problems with all this is just a modern sandwich-chimney, although it should be protected from raw firewood.

Ventcannals: air supply

In addition, unfortunately, modern building materials and furniture in most cases do not have high ecological indicators. And all these harmful substances are released into the air. Of course, if there is only one such source of carcinogenic substances in a residential building, then it alone is not dangerous (its effect is insignificant and the human body more or less removes all the toxins obtained during the day) and the producer is absolutely clean before the law.

But there is such a thing as a cumulative correlation, which takes into account that a person will breathe harmful elements not only today, but also tomorrow. And if it does exist certain problems with health and metabolism, then a toxic plastic shelf or wallpaper will still be harmful. And this is not taking into account the fact that such an everyday person and things are not surrounded by an average person in many ways.

From the current situation, there is a simple and affordable solution - high-quality ventilation. The constant influx of fresh air and the removal of the old can easily remove all the inhabitants of the periodic table penetrating into the air and thus reducing the mentioned negative influence almost to zero.

For quite a long time in Russia there was a practice of organizing the influx of fresh air into the room due to the leakage in the building structures themselves. Simply put, the old wooden windows have remarkably ventilated the room, but modern double-glazed windows, unfortunately, fully encapsulate it. Well, if you can put the window panes in the micro-ventilation mode or open completely, but sometimes they forget about it in the winter or just save on heating.

In this case, it is extremely necessary to install a forced ventilation system that will supply fresh air in the room, which is cleaner and warmer. And you can also resort to such an artisanal method as a through hole under the window frame (preferably above the heating convector). For this, a small hole breaks through, and the air from it comes straight from the street. If necessary, use an adjustable flap. Thus, the air is also heated.

In addition to providing a healthy indoor climate, ventilation is necessary for the normal operation of any fireplace or stove. For this purpose, it is planned to organize the flow of air, counting it at 200-300 square meters per hour, if the furnace closed type, and 800-1000 square meters per hour, if it is an open type.

And, at last, look at a small news story about how important it is to monitor the normal functioning of chimneys and ventilation ducts, and how to notice the first signs of malfunctions:

Be attentive and take care of your own health and life!

The microclimate of the house, which directly affects the well-being and comfort of all its occupants, depends on the correct ventilation system. Therefore, the place for ventilation ducts in a private house should be envisaged at the design stage. To plan and calculate the ventilation system at this stage is several times cheaper than dealing with the problem after the construction is completed.

The ventilation of the room is necessary in order to create optimal conditions for people's lives and the existence of pieces of furniture and appliances in the house.

If in multifamily houses everything has already been done by specialists who built the building, this issue is often overlooked when building private property.

Sometimes the arrangement of ventilation ducts is considered an extra waste of time and money

This is a fundamentally wrong opinion. The musty air, the sweating windows, the unpleasant odors from the bathrooms and the flavors of the fried food, along with the dirty smoke, will get into all rooms and even into the bedroom. Without a properly designed and assembled ventilation system, the comfortable life of the occupants of the house will be in jeopardy.

Ventilation in a private home can be:

natural;
mechanical;
mixed.

The first type is based on the natural process of air mass circulation. No mechanisms for injecting air into the house are used. He gets from the street, penetrating through the windows with micro-ventilation or inlet valves, organized in the most suitable places for this. In the rooms of the house, in which the valves are not installed, air circulates through the doorways and through the cracks between the door and the floor.

The exhaust air leaves the house also naturally through the ventilation shafts arranged in one of the walls of the house

When mechanical type Ventilation devices and special inflow equipment are used. The required volume of clean air is supplied to every room in the building, and the exhausted air is discharged outside. This is a more complex system, used for large country houses and cottages.

A mixed version of ventilation involves the use of the first and second types. This can be the installation of mechanical supply valves in the company with a natural exhaust system Removal of air through the ventilation in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Or vice versa - the inflow is natural, and mechanical equipment is used for removal.

A complex ventilation system consists of equipment that requires periodic maintenance or replacement. Most often you need to change filters (+)

The main advantages of the natural type:

energy independence;
the cheapest cost;
does not require repair;
minimal maintenance;
you can organize yourself.

In addition to positive moments, this type of ventilation has significant disadvantages. If everything was perfect, then other options for accommodation would simply not be used. The main disadvantages are the dependence on air temperature and weather conditions, limited service area.

In other words, when natural ventilation In the hot season you can forget about the existence of the ventilation system in the house

The mechanical system is convenient to use, because it can serve any area of the house / cottage and is completely independent of the weather. Moreover, it can be controlled at its own discretion, maintaining a comfortable temperature regime in the premises.

Many forced ventilation systems that have sensors to monitor the indoor climate are controlled via a remote control

Additional opportunities for heating incoming air, for ionizing and moistening the air masses of the room, etc. can be arranged by installing the appropriate equipment in the ventilation system.

The main disadvantages of the mechanical method of ventilation:

higher cost of equipment;
need for repair and periodic replacement of individual elements of the system;
dependence on electricity;
you may need a professional installation and configuration of equipment.

Given the positive and negative qualities of ventilation types, for country houses and cottages, a mixed type is most often used. This is justifiable from an economic point of view and quite feasible with your own hands.

Private house: features of ventilation ducts

Ventilation in the house must be done correctly. This will save the owner from constant small troubles, which in the total amount can be healthy to poison the life of the whole family. Particularly relevant is the issue of equipping ventilation ducts in new houses built of vapor-proof building materials with a similar thermal insulation. Here, without good forced ventilation, it will be impossible to live.

Rules for the installation of ventilation ducts

Properly equipped ventilation system will perform its functions qualitatively and not create problems for the homeowner. For this it is important to lay ventilation ducts in the house, taking into account the rules and recommendations.

Firstly, the size of the exhaust vent-channel in the room should be at least 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm in diameter. It is better to use ready-made pipes than to make channels from gypsum board - this will save time for installation, and air through the pipe goes better.

To equip the ventilation ducts, galvanized and plastic pipes different diameters

Secondly, vent pipes They should protrude above the roof at a certain height, depending on their location. So, the length of the vertical section of the ventilation duct should be on average from 1.5 to 3 meters. If the pipes do not fit into the overall design of the house, then it is possible to use venting outlets in the roof.

The height of the elevation of ventilation ducts above the roof level is assumed equal to the height of the chimneys. It depends on the location of the pipes relative to the ridge rib. It is important to protect the outlet with a grid so that birds and insects do not enter the shaft

Thirdly, according to the standards, it is necessary to provide ventilation to the boiler room and the room located above the boiler room. And, the purpose of this room does not matter. It can be like a study, a library, a bedroom or a living room.

Fourth, it is important to distinguish between the concept of a chimney and ventilation. In the first case, the combustion products enter the channel, and in the second - the exhaust air from the room itself. In no event can these 2 channels be combined into one. This is a gross violation.

Ventilation issues fit well with the overall idea of a roof design. Choose the model that best fits the color

Fifthly, in the kitchen you need to provide 2 separate ventilation channels - for hoods and for supply air. The second option is to use a special grille where the duct is connected and there is a separate opening for air to enter the room. Or a good way out will be a window with micro-ventilation.

Thoughtful design solutions with a stepped ceiling are able to disguise any ventilation system

Sixthly, if the house has rooms intended for household needs - dressing, laundry, storage, washing and other purposes, then there necessarily need to design a ventilation duct. In such rooms, windows through which air could flow are not provided.

Seventh, when the ventilation duct is laid in the wall, it is important that it is not a carrier. Arrange them in external walls is not recommended - because of the temperature difference there will always be condensation.

When arranging the ventilation duct in the wall, rooms such as kitchen, bathroom, toilet, boiler room must be near

The eighth rule - the wooden structures of the ceiling and the roof should not adjoin or touch a stone or brick ventilation duct. For a tree, this neighborhood can be disastrous.

The ninth rule - it is undesirable to use as a supply valve only one window. It is not the best option. The sick nasopharynx in the morning, with a sharp change of weather per night, will be provided to the owner of the house, who slept with an open window. This is especially true in the autumn and spring period.

The tenth rule - when there is no possibility to make ventilation ducts in a room, it is possible to put a supply valve by drilling a through hole in the wall. And at the top under the ceiling, drill a hole for the installation of the exhaust valve. This version of room ventilation can provide room and its inhabitants with fresh air.

A good option for accommodation the supply system - windows with microventilating. Passing through the chamber, the air gets warm slightly

Moreover, it is important to take into account the location of the private house and the adjacent territory. Make holes correctly at a height of 1-2 meters, so that dusty air does not penetrate into the house. If it is located next to the road, then from this part of the cottage does not need to install the supply valves.

Ventilation: which system to choose

Each house is unique. And the ventilation system, suitable in a particular case, will differ. Of great importance when choosing a system is the area of the house, the number of floors, the materials of the walls and the roof. You should also take into account the amount allocated for this.

The larger the house area and the more airtight materials used in its construction, the more complex the system will be. Another point is the additional possibilities of climate control. The cost of ventilation depends directly on this parameter.

Arrangement of the ventilation ducts themselves is inexpensive: inexpensive pipes, valves, grilles, additional parts that are needed for installation

The more functions a ventilation system can perform, the more expensive it will cost. But with a modest budget without additional opportunities you can get by - the influx of fresh air into the house does not depend on it.

For the organization of airflow use:

windows with micro-ventilation;
wooden windows. They have a natural micro-ventilation, ensuring the influx of fresh air from outside;
supply valve.

Supply valves can be of a variety of shapes and sizes. The materials from which they are made are metal and plastic. As for microventilating in windows, this option is the most convenient - you do not have to make holes in the walls and buy valves.

To remove air from the room of a private house, ventilators are used in the wall or separate air ducts are installed in the kitchen, in the pantry, boiler room and bathroom. It is convenient to install a fan in such channels, which will force the room to escape from the polluted air.

In mechanical ventilation systems, filters are used that need to be changed periodically. Their service life is specified in the manufacturer's instructions

If the area of the house is small, then it is enough to install windows with micro-ventilation, a hood in the kitchen and ventilation ducts from the boiler room and the bath. Such a seemingly modest system will cope with the ventilation of all premises a country house.

When you need to invite specialists

When arranging ventilation ducts in a private house, you can go in two ways:

invite specialists who will perform everything on a turn-key basis;
deal with all the issues yourself, doing the work yourself.

Each of the options is appropriate for specific conditions. All variants of design of the ventilation duct system can be divided into traditional and newest ready systems. In the first case, you need to select equipment, focusing on calculations. Here you can not forget about the smallest details that will be useful when assembling the system.

In the second case we are talking about an integrated solution from a certain manufacturer. For example, the German ventilation system Selfwind, which is bought ready-made kit for a certain area of the house. All components required for assembly are selected. The system itself is like collector system heating, only a multitude of tubes surround the house from the inside.

These flexible plastic ducts a diameter of 75 mm or 50 mm is pulled into the collector. They are poured concrete screed on the floor, and those areas that pass as a circulatory system, throughout the house, skillfully masked by designers.

In the future, this technology provides an ideal microclimate in each room with the ability to adjust humidity, temperature and other parameters

If such a complex ventilation system is chosen, which costs more than one thousand dollars for a country house with an area of 800 m 2 or more, then there is no point in saving on the plant. Yes, and a lot of time will be needed to equip such ventilation.

When building a house with your own hands, "from scratch" to lay out of the brick ventshahty and provide holes for the installation of supply valves is not difficult. Further all sites natural system The ventilation is made with special valves, and, if necessary, with hoods. This option is relevant for homes with an area of 250-300 m 2.

Complex and costly systems are equipped with all necessary parts for installation

Drawing up a ventilation scheme for the house

The ventilation scheme is drawn up before the construction of the house or before the beginning of the overhaul. If this is the first option, then for the device, the inner walls of the house that separate the boiler room, the kitchen, the bathroom and the toilet are chosen. It is these rooms that most need ventilation.

To plan everything correctly, you need to take a plan at home. If it is two or three stories high, then a plan of each floor

On the scheme it is necessary to put ventilation channels of supply and exhaust air, which will pass through the rooms. It is necessary to specify where the inlet valves, fans, recuperators and other equipment that is provided in the chosen ventilation system will be located.

Based on the design, it is necessary to calculate the capacity of the units for each room and to choose the diameters of the ventilation pipes.

Another important point is that the need for each room in fresh air should be taken into account in m 3. According to the regulations, different rooms need to provide a different amount of fresh air per hour:

for kitchen - 60 m 3 with electric stove and 90 m 3 with gas;
for bathrooms -25 m 3 per hour;
with combined bathrooms - 50 m 3;
for offices, children's rooms, living rooms - 3 m 3 per 1 m 2 of area.

For boilers, a separate ventilation duct must be laid. Given the norms, you need to calculate the need for fresh air and choose the appropriate capacity of the equipment. Moreover, it is important to make a stock of 30%, so that the system does not work at the limit of its capabilities.

Ventilation technology

When there is a plan for the arrangement of the ventilation system in the house, it remains to be implemented. To do this, all the components of the future system are purchased, indicated in the previously drawn up scheme. Each house will have its own characteristics.

For natural airflow inside the house, it is necessary to put windows with microventilating or wall valves

When installing a natural system, first put in the wall ventshahty - separately for the kitchen, heating / boiler, bathroom or bathroom and toilet. Then, decorative gratings are installed. In order for these channels to fulfill their role, we must not forget about the permissible height above the roof level.

Alternatively, you can put the ceiling grilles in rooms, if the attic has a window for free air circulation

If it is required to equip a mechanical or mixed type of ventilation in the house, then it is necessary to make the layout of the ventilation pipes. For this, an attic space is used. When there is no such possibility, the ventilation ducts are arranged under the ceiling of the house. Then they have to be disguised in any convenient way.

Supply and exhaust openings in the ventilation pipes are made out by air distributors. Receiving and ejection equipment, if necessary, can be provided with an electric heating system. If necessary, check valves, carefully treated the joints with a sealant.

The ventilation pipes are fixed with clamps or other fasteners provided for these purposes. All joints are reliably sealed. In the future, this will guarantee the excellent performance of the entire system.

Pipes can be used in rectangular or circular cross-section. The diameter of the ventilation pipes is selected according to calculations

The fans are mounted according to the instructions supplied with them. If you intend to install complex systems, then the equipment is installed in the way recommended by the manufacturer. Otherwise, you can lose the warranty service.

Problems with improper vent pipe arrangement

If the ventilation system is arranged correctly, the microclimate in each room of the house will be comfortable regardless of the total area and number of residents. But often the owners of cottages and country houses of permanent residence face various troubles. This is due to improper circulation of air currents.

Problems encountered by the owner of the house without ventilation:

the windows are crying;
chad and smoke from the kitchen enters the living rooms;
mold in the bathroom;
unpleasant smell in all rooms of the house;
if the boiler house is gas, the gas workers will not accept it without the correct arrangement of ventilation ducts.

The totality of all this leads to the fact that the tenants feel uncomfortable. The lack of fresh air can cause headaches, elevated levels of irritability, bad mood. Unpleasant smells from bathrooms and kitchens also interfere with the comfortable life of all the inhabitants of the house.

The layout of ventilation pipes in the attic is the most convenient option. This is provided that there is a free place

Another unpleasant phenomenon that occurs when the ventilation ducts are incorrectly organized is the overturning of ventilation. This happens if, through the air duct, instead of warm air from the room, which must leave, begins to pass a cold street.

This problem must be addressed. After all, no heating system can cope with such heat losses. Here, in the literal sense, the owner's money will actively fly into the vent pipe.

To prevent this from happening, the regulations stipulate that the ventilation duct, which takes out the exhaust air from the premises, must go out on the roof at a height of at least 2-3 meters.

Often it happens that the owner does not know which tributary pipe the tributary is coming from. To detect a leak of warm air, you can take advantage of simple way. To do this, taking a lit candle, you have to go around all the rooms, paying attention, as the flame itself leads at the places of air outlet from the room.

Instead of a lighted candle, you can use any other small source of open fire. For example, take a pocket lighter

If the flame of a candle tightens, then everything is in order. If it is blown into the room, then the source of the unauthorized influx of outdoor air is detected and it must be sorted out by taking appropriate measures to eliminate the problem.

Video about the device of house canals in the house

On the device of natural ventilation in a private house:

Video-manual on the appointment and use of a brick ventilation duct in a country house:

About how to properly make a clutch of ventilation ducts from solid brick in a video clip:

Video about the system of ventilation pipes, made of flexible plastic pipes, in a country cottage:

Having studied the features of the choice of the ventilation system, you can choose the most appropriate option for your private home. And is it worth it to equip ventcapals on its own or better to invite a team of specialists, depends entirely on the complexity of the chosen system, the area of the house and personal skills. If this is a complex project, then the appeal to professionals will be justified, otherwise it is possible to manage independently.

Safe use of furnace and gas equipment is possible only with the timely removal of combustion products and continuous air exchange inside the premises. This and some other functions are performed by the chimneys themselves various kinds of: from the elegant decorations of country villas to giant monsters - indispensable attributes of industrial zones.

The principle of natural draft

The outflow of products of combustion of gas from boilers, columns and furnaces is produced through natural draft. Draft is provided at a difference of temperatures in the street and in the house. The higher the ventilation pipe or chimney and the greater the temperature difference, the more intensive the chimney pulls. Therefore, natural ventilation works best on the first floors of multi-storey buildings and in the cold season.

The temperature of the combustion products above the operating plate is about 200 degrees. Air temperature in ventilation and chimneysah no more than 25 degrees and therefore traction is very weak. In summer, when the temperature in the street is higher than in the rooms, the draft can "tip over", that is, air is sucked into the apartments from the ventilation.

To a large extent, the effective operation of the system depends on the frequency of inspections of smoke and ventilation ducts.

Reasons for reducing traction:

contamination of internal walls of channels;
roughness, narrowing of the walls;
increase in the diameter of the channel;
sucking air.

A significant part of the energy of the air moving through the channel is expended on frictional resistance against the walls, when turning and reducing the diameter of the channel. The indicator of head loss depends on the masonry of the smoke or ventilation duct, its length and condition. In the presence of protrusions, outgrowths of dust and roughness, the resistance rises. Therefore, timely examination and cleaning of ventilation and smoke channels strengthens cravings.

In channels of large diameter, even with the ideal observance of the rules for the safe operation of smoke and ventilation pipes, the thrust is lowered, since the combustion products are cooled more quickly.

When the air sucks in the channel, too, the thrust falls, as the air temperature in the channel decreases, and its volume increases. Therefore, all hatchways for pipe maintenance must be kept closed.

The draft in the chimneys during the operation of the boiler or furnace is about 14 Pa. In ventilation ducts, it is much lower. Affects the thrust of opening the windows in the apartments, the direction and strength of the wind, and even the location of neighboring houses. Ventilation and chimneys should not be located in the area of the wind pressure. This space is below the line leading from the highest point of the nearest building to the horizon at an angle of 45 degrees.

Construction of ventilation pipes and chimneys

According to the rules for the operation of smoke and ventilation pipes, they are arranged inside the house to maintain the temperature of the exhaust air. You can arrange ventilation and smoke ducts and outside, then they need to be insulated.

The masonry of ventilation and smoke ducts consists of clay brick or heat-resistant concrete (asbestos cement). The thickness of the brickwork from 12 cm, of the concrete wall of the ventilation or smoke channel is more than 6 cm. The SNiP states that ventilation and smoke channels are arranged only vertically, without transitions and horizontal sections.

Device for pocket (holes) for cleaning the chimney

At the bottom of the chimney, there are holes for cleaning and a pocket depth of 25 cm. The holes are covered with doors and are faced with a brick installed on the edge. Masonry is carried out on a solution of clay. In the asbestos-cement pipes leave a sheet for cleaning.

The pocket is necessary so that when the masonry breaks down, the brick fragments do not block the inlet opening, falling just below. In the pocket all the garbage that gets into the chimney accumulates. If you do not provide a pocket, the garbage will gradually reduce the section of the chimney and worsen the traction.

Unsuitable materials for smoke and ventilation ducts:

slag concrete;
silicate, hole, slit brick;
coarse-grained materials.

Although silicate brick and well resists high temperatures, it is destroyed by carbon dioxide and wet fumes. If there are no other materials, SNiP requires a device in the ventilation and smoke channel of the inner lining of red brick with a thickness of 13 cm.

Chimneys can be:

nasal (from asbestos-cement pipes inserted into each other);
whole (of bricks).

Pipes are distinguished by smooth internal walls, they are supported by fireplaces or furnaces with powerful walls (not thinner than 1/2 of a brick). If the pipe is heavy, a reinforced concrete slab is installed on the ceiling of the furnace and a pipe is already attached to it.

Asbestos-cement tube pipes are much lighter than brick pipes, they do not need to be disassembled during overhaul, they are quickly installed.

Brick chimney requires a special foundation, which is laid at a depth exceeding the depth of freezing of the soil.

When erecting low-rise buildings, prefabricated chimneys are used that are built into a wall or form a riser. The walls of chimneys are made of heat-resistant concrete.

In the places of passage through the chimney of the roof it is necessary to leave a hole with a width of 13 cm. The connection of the chimney with the roof is covered with an apron made of stainless metal.

The chimney can have a slope of up to 30 degrees with an offset of not more than 100 cm. Such segments must be of the same cross section, equal to the cross section of vertical segments with smooth walls.

The heads of chimneys made of bricks are covered with 20 cm plaster to protect them from precipitation. Chimneys do not have deflectors and umbrellas.

Chimneys of gasified buildings

The ventilation and smoke channels of the gasified rooms should rise above the flat roof by 50 cm or more. On a pitched roof 50 cm or more above the rib or the height of the rib with a distance from the edge to the chimney is 1.5 - 3 meters.

The height of the chimneys of the gasified rooms should be equal to the height of the exhaust ducts.

To the system of ventilation and smoke channels in the gasified room, the heating equipment is connected through metal adapters. The length of the vertical adapter should be from 50 cm. If the height of the room is less than 2 m 70 cm and the stabilization of the traction is used, the vertical adapter can be shortened to 25 cm. The total length of the horizontal adapters can be up to 3 m in new or up to 6 m in the already functioning buildings.

The slope towards the boiler is allowed from 0.01. Pipes must be fixed rigidly without the possibility of sagging. The knee tubes are inserted into each other along the smoke path and overlap by 1/2 of the diameter of the chimney.

The metal adapter is tightly attached to the chimney, not protruding from the channel walls.

If the pipe is made of metal sheet, it is necessary to treat it with heat-resistant varnish.

The pipe is attached to the chimney, leaving a pocket of 25 cm and a hatch for monitoring, as well as the construction of a chimney oven. If the device is not equipped with a traction stabilizer, a damper with a perforation of 15 mm, through which the furnace is ventilated during idle time, is required.

When retrofitting old chimneys from furnaces for gas equipment, bad thrust is often observed. The furnaces are heated for a longer time and the temperature of the combustion products is much higher than when the gas boiler is in operation, so that the air is not exhausted from the combustion of gas.

Requirements for chimneys

Operation of chimneys

The rules for the safe operation of smoke and ventilation pipes require periodic cleaning and inspection. Without cleaning, a long-life chimney becomes a potential source of fire or poisoning of residents. The need to clean the ventilation and smoke ducts determine routine checks.

The chimney, built of brick or made up of asbestos-cement pipes after a while loses its appearance and works worse. On the inner walls, soot and soot accumulate, the flue clearance decreases and the draft decreases. But there is another danger: combustion products can ignite. The substances emitted by the soot destroy the pipe material and the seams of the masonry. The chimney tightness is reduced, the fuel does not burn completely, the traction is deteriorating.

Only periodic checks of smoke and ventilation can help avoid dangerous situations.

If heating equipment is used every day, the frequency of checking and cleaning the ventilation and smoke channels is 8 weeks. If the stove melts from time to time, the condition of the chimney must be checked twice a year: in the autumn before the start of the heating season and in the spring.

Checking chimneys

Examination of smoke and ventilation ducts is carried out in the following cases:

when transferring furnaces to gas fuel;
when connecting gas chimneys to the chimneys;
if necessary to diagnose the state of the chimney and poor draft.

The purpose of checking ventilation and smoke channels:

conformity of masonry materials of the smoke or ventilation duct and the device to the requirements of SNiP;
presence of clogs;
presence of traction;
density of the chimney walls;
condition and the presence of partitions separating the adjacent structures of the building;
state of the head and its location relative to the roof, buildings and trees.

Checking the ventilation and smoke channels:

To determine the congestion in the chimney, a cargo in the form of a sphere weighing 3 kg and up to 10 cm in size is lowered from above on it. If the load passes unhindered, the channel is clean;
To determine the isolation and density of channels, the smoke method is used. In the window for cleaning put a burning patch, moistened in gasoline or a bundle of straw, when burning abundantly emits smoke. The outlet of the chimney is covered tightly overhead. If the smell of smoke appears in nearby rooms or canals, then the channel walls are not dense;
The cleanliness of the canal walls is inspected by lowering the electric bulb into the chimney to 500 watts of power. At the same time, the density of the walls is determined. If there is light in the adjacent channels, then there are gaps.

Cleaning is performed on the basis of the results of checking the ventilation and smoke channels. She may be:

mechanical;
chemical.

Mechanical cleaning is carried out with brushes and brushes made of metal wire. Under the weight of the cargo they descend on the cables into the chimney and scrape off all the deposits from the walls. Some pipes (for example, ceramic) are difficult to clean - they can crack.

Dry cleaning is safer. In the furnace burned "log chimney sweep", which burns the soot on the walls of the chimney. The material is impregnated with chemical composition, decomposing soot and soot. But dry cleaning does not cope with thick deposits, so it is used as an auxiliary or preventive.

Industrial chimneys

The purpose of industrial smoke and ventilation pipes is not only in the removal of combustion products, but also in the maintenance of combustion in the boiler plant units. In the recent past, most industrial smoke and ventilation pipes were made of brickwork. Today, metal pipes with thermal insulation are increasingly installed on its way. The height of the structure can reach 60 meters.

According to the rules for the safe operation of smoke and ventilation pipes, they need periodic cleaning. Prevention is carried out at the end of the heating season. And to prevent accidents, scheduled checks of ventilation and smoke channels are assigned.

Design smoke and ventilation pipes for the industry, taking into account each specific enterprise, since the task of the structure is always unique.

Ventilation channels are necessary for the organization of constant air exchange in the premises. Smoke and ventilation ducts are necessarily installed in a private house for the removal of combustion products from heating, gas appliances, stoves, water heaters.

Features of ventilation systems

Ventilation in a private or multi-apartment building can be:

Natural;
Forced.

When forced system the air speed is higher. The higher the flow speed, the smaller the dimensions of the hatches. With natural ventilation, the dimensions of the hatch should always be larger. In a private home, a more compulsory system is in demand.

However, natural ventilation is also popular. Schiedel ventilation ducts are very popular for natural ventilation. They are usually applied in kitchens and toilets in a multi-apartment or private house. With them, with the additional installation of fans, it is also possible to arrange forced ventilation.

Materials, sizes and shapes

Ventilation channels can be made of different materials. Let's consider for the beginning plastic. Plastic products are distinguished by many advantages:

These are smooth walls, which provides low resistance to air flow and no need to regularly clean the structure, since dust does not stay in it. The treatment with an antistatic agent will completely eliminate the attraction of dust;
Plastic channels are easy to install;
They are aesthetic;
Plastic structures, due to their characteristics, are often used in industrial sectors;
Plastic channels are resistant to corrosion, easy to handle, have low cost, do not throw harmful substances into the air when burning;
Plastic ventilation ducts can be installed in rooms with excessively polluted air or unpleasant odors. It is important to establish not only plastic constructions, but also special fans to them.

However, they also have shortcomings:

Plastic ventilation pipes do not withstand high temperatures;
Plastic products can be installed only in rooms with a temperature of not more than +50 degrees. This factor rather restricts their use.

There are also galvanized ones. Ventilation pipes made of galvanized steel have limitations in use. They can be operated only in rooms with a temperature not exceeding 80 degrees and humidity not exceeding 60%. They are distinguished by reliability, long service life, lightness, easy installation.

In a private and an apartment house rectangular channels are usually installed. Their relevance is explained by technical and operational characteristics:

Good fit to the surface;
Aesthetics and simplicity of disguise;
Quick installation, convenient fastening;
Rectangular products have a high throughput;
Saving space and fasteners due to the fact that rectangular structures have a sufficient area at low altitude;
Rectangular ventilating pipes are convenient in case of presence of false ceilings in the private house.

On sale there are rectangular plastic pipes and channels from other materials. For the organization of ventilation can be applied not only rectangular, but also round tubes. Which ones to choose? Round ventilation ducts are usually used in industries, rectangular in residential buildings.

Installation Rules

Passages are organized when laying walls made of bricks. If the wall thickness is 38 cm, they are fixed in one row, if the thickness is 64 cm - then in two rows. For the organization of channels, a certain amount of full-bodied ceramic bricks will be required. Vertical masonry is carried out. The distance between it and the joints of the walls must be at least 380 mm. The channels should also be insulated by means of heat-resistant materials.

When installing ventilation ducts from brick, the following points should be considered:

Channels must be square or rectangular;
Ventilation passages are put end-to-end;
To strengthen the cross-brick with respect to the passage is required;
The withdrawal, if it is needed, is performed at a distance of not more than 1 meter, the angle is not less than 60 degrees with respect to the horizon. To do this, you will need to lay a brick, which is cut at the right angle;
The masonry is bandaged with the help of halves of bricks;
Buoys, regularly rearranged, will prevent the violation of the shape of the passage and clogging;
During the laying of the brick, in order that the ventilation shafts are not clogged, newspapers are put in them.

Channels can be made without brick laying. This will require pipes. In addition, there must also be an air duct in each room. One of them should be placed 2 meters above the foundation inside the outer wall. The second duct should be on the roof at a height of 1 meter above it.

For the organization of a natural system, structures with a diameter of 125 x 150 mm will be required. For forced ventilation, the optimal dimensions are 100 x 125 mm. Suitable pipes are made of concrete, PVC, galvanized and so on. The structures placed between the walls must be cemented. To make the system leak tight, rubber or silicone is used. To connect the structure to the ventilation outlet, a corrugated pipe is required.

The installation can be done independently. For this, it is important to check in advance with all the recommendations and instructions.

It is also important to purchase quality materials that are suitable for specific conditions. With the correct installation of the system, the system will last you a very long time, performing all the functions assigned to it. In addition, with the right selection of materials, you reduce the number of necessary cleaning systems and reduce the cost of operation.