home Ventilation

Pipes for ventilation. Do I need a hood in the cellar. Basement under the garage

The gardener's dream is to have a spacious and dry cellar for storing vegetables from the garden, conservation and other things of economic use. How technologically correctly to make ventilation of a home cellar? To equip a good storehouse in a private house, it is necessary to equip it with a supply and exhaust air exchanger. Competent hood in the cellar will provide optimal moisture and temperature conditions.

The principle of the ventilation system

The optimization and quality of ventilation depends on the correctness of its arrangement. The scheme of the correct operation of the air exchange system is simple. The space in the basement provides for 2 ducts of the supply and exhaust system. After one, fresh air enters the room, evaporation is evacuated from the cellar through the other.
When the underground storage has a small area, air exchange is created in the cellar with one pipe. But the efficiency of a single-channel system will be low.

Correct ventilation of the cellar is characterized by the following factors:

maximum performance indicators are achieved due to the supplied risers of a certain diameter to the holes;
the quality of the system's operation is determined by the location of the exhaust and supply air opening above the basement;
funeral ventilation pipes are installed in the walls, if the basement is located under the garage or under the house, or are exited through the ceiling if the store is on the street;
when constructing the hood for the cellar with your own hands, you need to take into account the height of the installation of the entrance and exit channels from the floor;
the diameter of the hole must be the same on all channels. Too small - leads to air stench, and vice versa, the arrival of a large amount of cold leads to the freezing of food;
the ventilation device in the cellar means the installation of supply and output risers at opposite corners or walls. Between the pipes you need a certain distance. This arrangement ensures maximum passage of fresh air through the room, pushing out the stagnant air;
the holes for the removal of stagnant air are made under the ceiling;
the ventilation exhaust duct is arranged above the embankment of the basement. Its length, for the normal functioning of the duct system, must be at least 150 cm:
for the organization of airing of the underground, PVC pipes of the same diameter are used;
when arranging the supply and exhaust system, it is necessary to achieve a direct location of communications. Bends and turns make the passage of air difficult;
to maintain optimum microclimate in the basement, it is recommended to install flaps. In the cold season, they regulate the flow of cold air;
sections of the air circulation channels are covered from the outside by a grid, mushrooms and must be insulated.

Guided by the above advice on the arrangement of ventilation in the cellar, you can achieve optimal ventilation of the underground storage.

Varieties of the supply and output air exchange system in basements

Depending on the layout and area of the sub-floor, the type of hood is chosen. The air exchange system in the cellars is of several types.

Natural airing

The extractor unit in the cellar by type of natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperature and pressure in the street and inside the room. The effectiveness of the work depends on the correct location of the holes. The supply channel is placed at a height of 25 - 30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust passage is 10 - 20 cm from the ceiling.

Forced system

The design of forced air exchange consists of two pipes with built-in fans, which cause the air to move, creating an artificial vacuum in the room. Their capacity depends on the size of the basement.

Combined ventilation

By creating air exchange inside the sub-floor, choosing the hoods, you need to take into account the features of the building. It can be located under a residential building or garage, it can be located separately on the street. These factors affect the correct duct capacity.

Underground in the house: we create air-discharge communications

Ventilation in the cellar under the house has two purposes: it ensures the comfort of living in the house and storage of food in an accessible place. Incorrectly operating ventilation system negatively affects the comfort of living - leads to penetration of musty and stale air into the dwelling
What should be the hood for the cellar, so that the storage conditions are optimal, and the residence of the owners - comfortable? To arrange the ventilation of the premises under the residential building, use a forced method, with installation on the exhaust vent of a stationary fan or natural appearance.

System Features

Ventilation of the cellar under the house has its own nuances:

the supply duct is mounted through the foundation of the building;
a pipe for fresh air intake should not have many bends, turns, constrictions and extensions;
taking out the holes outwards, it is necessary to ensure that they are not covered with dirt, snow;
to prevent condensation, the outer part is insulated;
the elbow is placed along the wall.

Most often in the houses the basement is built under the kitchen.

Basement under the garage

Arrangement of ventilation of the cellar under the garage implies the support of the microclimate in the underground room for storage of things and products, as well as for preventing dampness. Structurally the hood is divided into the following options:

natural - due to the difference in pressure and temperature inside and outside. Natural circulation Air is a popular cheap option. It assumes the presence of two holes with pipes made of metal, plastic or PVC.
Artificial funeral ventilation - ventilation is forced by means of installed fans. Their work is controlled by a monoblock control.
combined method, which allows to combine the two above types.

Correctly constructed air exchange mechanism ensures ventilation of not only the basement room, but also the garage itself.

Which hole diameter is required for the ventilation system?

Determination of the required pipe size, ensures optimal operation of the cellar ventilation system. Professional designers perform a complex algorithm for calculating the diameter of pipes, but for a self-constructed structure a simplified form is used:

for a basement area of 1m², the cross-sectional area of the channel is 26 cm ². Let's take as an example the underground storage 4х3 m.
we calculate the area: S = 3x3 = 9 m ².
for such dimensions, a pipe with a cross section is required: T = 9x26 = 234 cm2.
) = √ (234 / 3.14) = 8.6 cm
diameter is calculated as Dp ≈17 cm = 170 mm.

Knowing the necessary dimensions, you can proceed with the subsequent installation activities.

Installation work

Ventilation in the cellar with their own hands is not difficult. But the correctness of its construction depends on the knowledge and skills of the owners of the house. Guided by the advice of professionals, you can independently build air exchange in the basement.

If the ventilation system settles in the finished basement, then a hole is made in the ceiling to remove the air duct.
Through the niche, the exhaust pipe is installed and fixed under the ceiling.
From the street, the outflow channel rises 150 cm above the ground level.
In the opposite corner, the intake of air through the wall is mounted and lowered downwards. It is located at least 20 cm from the floor.
The intake port in the yard should be below the supply air. This provides natural traction.
Deflector, fungus and mesh are installed on all the conclusions of the supply and output system.

Drying the sub-floor

Drying is considered the simplest method of ventilation of the cellar. If the room is exposed to high humidity, then it needs to be warmed up.

to ensure a favorable microclimate, the basement is recommended to open all doors and hatches. The room is completely dried and ventilated.
containers with hygroscopic substances are used: sodium chloride or quicklime, which perfectly absorb moisture and dampness, and disinfect the air.
the installation of a burning candle in the exhaust duct increases the intensity of the thrust. The air circulation is significantly increased, and harmful evaporation is evacuated from the room.
the drying of the room with wind-blowing heaters, portable stoves and electric heaters is considered to be the simplest and most affordable way.

Start drying better in the summer. Natural ventilation with warm air gives the maximum effect.

Waterproofing measures

Covering the underground room with waterproofing compounds allows you to maintain the optimal temperature and wet conditions inside.
There are several options for isolation:

for concrete walls, deep penetration impregnations are applied, with which all surfaces are treated. Each layer penetrates into the concrete, creating a waterproof and breathable surface.
as an insulating material, a ruberoid is used. The sheet is laid on the surface treated with mastic.
clay is an environmentally friendly material that also retains moisture well.

In addition to the above options, other means are used, but the above are distinguished by availability and security of use.

How correctly to make ventilation of a cellar? There are a few tips:

In winter, the hood should be better covered, so as not to contribute to a strong cooling of the basement. For this, old blankets and rags are used, which fit on the steel grid in the armature.
The drying of the cellar is also harmful. Increase the humidity to the optimum level by using an atomizer (spray water occasionally) or boxes with wet sand.
The air temperature in the basement should not coincide with the street temperature. For pasture musty fumes in an underground room use fans installed in the channels of the system.

Properly equipped air vent system - a pledge to maintain the microclimate in the basement. Ventilation of the cellar with your own hands is an opportunity to create an ideal storage for vegetables and conservation.

Inside the dark - no windows, light - from a light bulb and only when you need to take something.
Low temperature - is mandatory for the long-term storage of things and products, otherwise "love has passed, wilted tomatoes". Literally.
Constant air circulation, fresh inflow and withdrawal of stagnant.
Humidity about 90% - not much and not a little. Enough to keep the freshness without rotting or drying out.

If the building does not meet the listed requirements, it is worthwhile to ask about the need for high-quality ventilation. To create such an air cycle, two types of ventilation are used: passive and mechanical.

For small rooms

When laying the foundation in the basement area over the cellar leave vent. They are covered with iron bars - so inside there will not get pets, pests and rubbish (leaves, branches, scrap paper). With the onset of frosts, a dense fabric is placed over the grill for insulation and pressed down with an iron sheet. If the design is correctly designed, the cellar will keep the temperature acceptable for food storage even in winter.

This is the easiest way to arrange it, but it does not provide enough good ventilation, and falling precipitation (snow, rain) in any case will fall into the vents and accumulate.

If there is no way to make two separate air vents - you can divide it in half one. The first part with the wind trap draws fresh air into the room, the second part is slightly covered from the parallel blowing and will serve as a hood.

Passive (natural) ventilation

Cellars of large sizes will not be able to air out nicely just niches - there is a need for air circulation. But you can quickly and inexpensively make ventilation in the cellar with your own hands, and a full purge system will allow you to store any things in the future without the danger of damage.

A significant disadvantage natural ventilation is dependent on weather conditions. In the complete absence of wind, the air flow is extremely weak, because it can be considered an intermediate solution and a "frame" for the mechanical one.

First, you need to determine the diameter of the pipes, calculate the volume of the chamber and required amount air for normal circulation, followed by a scheme for ventilation of the cellar. The formula is quite simple: 1 cm of pipe diameter is 13 cm2. section. On 1 square meter of cellar you need 26 square cm section. That is, with a cellar of 10sq.m. the diameter is calculated as follows: 10 sq.m (area) * 26 (required section per meter): 13 (cross section per 1 cm of diameter).

Simply put, the area is multiplied by 2 - the pipe diameter is obtained. If the duct is rectangular - we take a calculation of 1 sq.m. area of the room = 26 cm. area duct (in this case, an area of 230 square cm = air duct size 10x23 cm). The ventilation of the cellar in the garage is done according to the same principle, but taking into account the design features - it can not always be directly derived.

Since the garage is mainly used to store more resistant to temperature and moisture products - the dependence on ventilation is smaller, but the car still needs air circulation to prevent the accumulation of condensate.

After that, the required length is measured, and you can proceed with the installation work.

Hood and inflow assembly

Duct through the ceiling in the corner of the cellar is displayed on the roof, necessarily above the building level - otherwise the draft will be unstable and depend on the direction of the wind. Below is mounted a damper for adjustment, and from above is put a grid (from birds and garbage) and "fungus" from the rain. You can not put it back to back, otherwise the air will not fall freely, but the too high "mushroom" is useless by default, since rain and snow rarely fall vertically, and the wind will blow them into the pipe. If there is already an overlap (concrete wall, slabs, bricks) above the cellar, you can make several smaller ones, but equivalent in terms of total area / diameter, instead of one large passage. Proper ventilation of the cellar in the winter will keep the products from icing and completely allows the "division" of the pipes.

Inflow is diametrically drawn - in the opposite corner at a distance of not less than 0.5 m from the floor. The size of the supply duct can be made a little more drawing for reliability and better air supply. Similarly to the hood, it is displayed on the roof and is also equipped with a grid and protection against rain. It is important that the supply pipe is at least 0.5 m below the hood, otherwise the system will close and air will not flow because of the same pressure in both channels.

After installation, check the traction.

No sensors - just bring a burning lighter to the exhaust port for 5-10 seconds. If the flame burns evenly and is "drawn" into the channel - everything is in order. It will go out - it means that the air does not flow or is not withdrawn. In this case, the flame is taken in turn to each channel for verification. Near the inflow it must tremble from the flow of the wind, if it burns perfectly smoothly - the pipe is either clogged or incorrectly installed. Change the height, increase the diameter - this should solve the problem.

Forced (mechanical) ventilation

Unlike the passive, the mechanical ventilation of the cellar in a private house does not depend on the weather, wind force / direction and other details. Moreover, the existing passive ventilation will serve as the basis for the creation forced circulation. Actually, the basic principles of the design do not differ - both pipes are located diametrically, both are led upward, both are protected from debris and precipitation. Forced ventilation is equipped in two ways.

With the help of fans

The fan is mounted on the hood, blowing air from the room. As a result, a small vacuum inside is formed, which itself will draw in the outside air. An alternative is a fan on the inflow for better air injection, but the load on it will be slightly increased if the extraction is not wide enough. Ideally, you should put the fans with speed control on both channels and set them to equal speed.

Since in the cellars humidity is higher than under normal conditions, it is better to use low voltage fans and additionally isolate the wires and contacts and consult with professionals in advance how to make ventilation in the basement with your own hands.

Non-mechanical

The alternative is deflectors. They are put on the hood instead of the hood and dilute the air in the pipe, creating an increased traction. Another option is turbines. The force of the wind rotates the shaft, it transfers force to the fan, which improves the outflow of air. Both options do not require electricity, but when installing them, you need to adjust the thrust.

The minus of the deflectors and turbines is only one thing: they are also dependent on the wind and will not bring much benefit in its absence. it is better to strengthen the fan hood for such cases.

Better to understand all the details will help video of the cellar ventilation by oneself - visual perception is much more effective than any text.

The dream of every gardener is to have a dry and spacious, the air in it must be fresh, but without drafts. In order to build their own hands such a miracle-storage, it is necessary to provide its supply-and-exhaust ventilation. Competent ventilation of the cellar will allow it to maintain the optimum temperature and humidity regime for storing vegetables, save it from excessive dampness and protect it from mold. Knowing the basic rules of the device of natural ventilation, it is possible to make the cellar dry by yourself.

Natural ventilation is the right device:

to ensure good ventilation install 2 pipes: supply and exhaust;
air exchange will be better if the ventilation pipes are located in two levels and, if the storage design allows, - in different places, which will avoid sucking in fresh air;
the exhaust vent pipe is placed at the top - under the ceiling;
the ventilation duct of the cellar, on the contrary, at the bottom at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor;
the figures below show the correct and incorrect device for extracting the cellar;

use a larger number of ventilation pipes with a smaller cross-section - undesirable, which is especially important for northern regions;
with such a device for ventilation of the cellar, air exchange occurs due to the difference in specific gravity of warm indoor air and cold outdoor air. This is a natural process, so the ventilation of the cellar according to this scheme is called natural;
the exhaust pipe should be put out above the roof ridge and insulated (it is made double) in the place where it passes through the cellar or attic. The draft in the exhaust ventilation pipe is greater than it is higher itself;
the cross-section of ventilation pipes depends on the size of the cellar. So, with a cellar area of 6-8 square meters. m, the exhaust demand is made with a cross section of 120x120 mm, but if the cellar is equipped with only one pipe, its cross-section must be at least 150x150 mm;
for the manufacture of ventilation pipes boards of 30-40 mm thickness are used. They are well adjusted, tightly assembled and supplied with valves (valves) and flaps, which will allow to regulate air exchange and temperature-humidity regime;

if the cellar is small, then a single two-channel pipe with wind-trapping is sufficient for its ventilation (see the figure). With this design, the pipe has two - one for airflow into the cellar, another for drawing. Each channel can be provided with an independent latch;

the ventilation of some types of cellars (for example, if it is located under the garage) can be arranged through a hatch closed by a grate. At the top, the grate is insulated with an old blanket or other insulation;
to check the effective operation of ventilation, you can attach a piece of thin paper to the outlet of the pipes. If there is convection, then the paper will start to sway;
the second way to check whether the ventilation of the cellar is working - put a bucket of hot coals in it. By the movement of smoke from coals, one can observe the air currents inside the vegetable store;
insufficient ventilation can be easily detected by the following signs: stale and musty air; mold; feeling damp; condensate on the ceiling, bins, walls, racks;
to lower the humidity the cellar needs to be ventilated. To do this, the inner doors are made lattice and in the fall open all that can be opened - hatches, doors, latches. At the same time, a box filled with large table salt or quicklime is brought into the cellar (they not only absorb moisture, but also disinfect the air);

if on the contrary, it is necessary to increase the humidity in the cellar built by oneself, it is possible to sprinkle water, sprinkle the floor in the cellar with wet sawdust or put a box filled with wet.

When the cellar in the garage

Ventilation of the cellar in the garage is important not only to maintain the temperature and humidity needed to ensure the safety of the products, but also to exclude dampness in the garage. Options for extracting the cellar in the garage:

natural - is based on the temperature difference between on the street and inside the cellar, causing continuous air circulation. The natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage is the cheapest option.
forced (artificial) - the air flow is forced by means of fans. Fully mechanized ventilation of the basement under the garage using a monoblock or a modular system controlled by software costs from $ 1,000;
combined - includes elements of natural and forced ventilation of the cellar.

Natural ventilation -

as in the case of a cellar in the house, in most cases, the ventilation of the cellar in the garage uses natural ventilation, the performance of which is sufficient for small volumes of vegetable storage. The scheme of natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage also provides for at least two pipes made of resistant materials. The most suitable material for ventilation pipes is metal or plastic, for example PVC. Below is given the ventilation scheme: on the left - the standard scheme; on the right - the device for ventilation of the cellar in the garage, which provides ventilation and the garage itself.

As can be seen from the diagrams, the correct ventilation of the cellar in the garage includes:

the inflow and exhaust, located in different sides of the room. The best placement is in the far opposite corners;
the ventilation pipes must have one cross-sectional diameter along the entire length;
the fewer twists and turns in the intake and exhaust pipes of the cellar ventilation in the garage, the better Ideally they should not be at all;
the supply pipe is located as close to the floor as possible. The hole of the pipe is covered with a net from the penetration of rodents and other small animals;
the bottom of the exhaust pipe - as high as possible (closer to the ceiling);
the top of the exhaust pipe is positioned as high as possible - at a distance\u003e 0.8 - 1 m above the ridge, and in the case of a single-pitched roof, the count is from the highest part of it. The high arrangement of the exhaust duct for ventilation of the cellar in the garage improves traction and excludes the drift of its exit end with snow;
the adjustment of air exchange is made through the adjusting flaps built into the inflow and exhaust ventilation of the cellar in the garage. Damper allows you to dry the cellar, regulate both the inflow and outflow of air. The flaps are indispensable for ventilation of the cellar in the garage in winter in frosts, when it is necessary to dose the volume of air renewal, otherwise it is possible to freeze stored vegetables and billets;
on top, both pipes are protected by visors, protective covers or deflectors. This will prevent precipitation from entering the interior, as well as in the case of using a deflector for drawing, will create around it a vacuum area, which will increase traction;
warm air emerges through the exhaust pipe, therefore condensate may fall inside it in frosty weather. Condensation freezes, than reduces the area of passage of air up to full plugging of an air line. To prevent such a situation, the pipe is necessarily insulated, especially in the place where it passes through the roof. For insulation use resistant materials. In addition, the pipe must be periodically cleaned from the snow in winter, and to make the process easier, the outlet part of the pipe is made removable. This will allow only the clogged part of the pipe to be cleaned.

Correct natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage will ensure a constant air circulation, and most of the room will be used in air exchange. The cost of natural ventilation of the cellar is insignificant, there is no need for large expenditures, you can meet the price of 1500 rubles (purchase of consumables, and make the ventilation device yourself). The main drawback of natural exhaustion: in the case when the temperature of the air on the street is equal to or greater than the temperature of the air in the cellar - air exchange ceases.

Forced ventilation -

allows to equip the cellar in the garage so that the air exchange process does not depend on the weather conditions. To do this, it is necessary to upgrade the exhaust pipe: it is placed in an electric fan that creates an air vortex. Thus, the air is expelled from the room, which ensures the flow of fresh air through the supply pipe. Organize the air exchange and can be through one pass (use a double-wing pipe). Forced method allows you to organize the ventilation of the cellar in the garage and ensure a constant air exchange in the summer, when the natural method is powerless.

If desired, you can arrange for the cellar in the garage ideal conditions for storage of products, for which the fully mechanized ventilation of the cellar is installed. In this case, the inflow and exhaust of air in the room is provided by a monoblock (modular system) and controlled by software. The cost of such installations may exceed 1000 US dollars.

When the cellar in the house

The ventilation of the cellar in the house fulfills two functions at once: it provides suitable conditions for storage of products and does not allow deterioration of comfortable living of people in the house. Improper ventilation of the cellar in the house can negatively affect comfort and coziness: dampness in the cellar and stale, stale air easily penetrate into the living quarters, and this air will have to breathe all the residents of the house. A tightly closed lid or cellar door will not save positions.

The optimal scheme for ventilation of the cellar in the house is shown in the figure. The scheme is suitable for both natural and forced (artificial) ventilation:

forced method involves the installation of a stationary fan, this method is used for air exchange in vegetable stores of large volumes. Fan for the cellar put on the exhaust duct;
for natural ventilation, the fan is also used, but not permanently, but temporarily - it is set for several days to dry the storage.

Features of ventilation of the cellar in the house:

the supply pipe is laid through a part of the foundation above the ground, then through the basement of the house;
the supply pipe must have a minimum number of bends and the minimum length, should not have constrictions and extensions;
at the device of ventilation of a cellar in the house it is necessary to provide, that in winter the inflow pipe was not filled up with snow;
part of the exhaust pipe, located in a cold place, must be insulated, to prevent condensation;
the ventilation of the cellar is located inside the wall of the house or in a special ventilation duct, which usually goes along the wall (for example, from the kitchen). In order to collect all ventilation ducts together, the cellar is best done under the kitchen.

Ventilation in the basement

Each of you, probably, visited my grandmother in the cellar or cellar, making a heroic campaign for a jar of conservation. Did you notice that the basement is different? Dark and damp cellars or cellars were not particularly attractive, right? But the dry and bright did not cause either disgust or fear. Of course, our ancestors did not particularly bother with the question - how to make ventilation in the cellar. It was enough for them only a piece of pipe for drawing and a slightly opened lyada to ensure air circulation, than actually limited. And how are things now?When building a new house or re-equipping an old one, after buying in the secondary housing market, a truly diligent owner will definitely pay special attention to the construction of a cellar or cellar. In particular, the achievement of minimum humidity, which is very important for rooms below the floor surface level. Now we will not talk about waterproof materials and features of drainage structures. We will talk about the usual, at first glance, ventilation. However, it is not everyone who knows how to properly make it with one's own hands to reduce condensation of moisture in the cellar or cellar to a minimum. Therefore, all interested in how to establish such ventilation, - welcome to a small technical education program.

So, what do we actually know about airflows? Cold masses fall down, and warm ones go up, thus forming air flows, called "wind" in the common people. Well, as you know, no one in the basement will organize the wind in the truest sense of the word. But to create (and technically to establish) a light draft, a ventilating cellar or a cellar, not only it is possible, but also it is necessary. Let's turn to the classical scheme of supply and exhaust ventilation.

Options for the extractor in the cellar

What we will need for proper ventilation, let's list:

Pipes are asbestos cement, with a diameter of 100-150 mm (plastic sewage can be used, it simplifies and facilitates installation).
Insulation (mineral wool will do the best).
Insulating material (roll foil for heating systems).
Fasteners.
Protective elements (mesh-mesh and "umbrella" made of galvanized steel).
Foam mounting.

Supply and exhaust ventilation of the cellar

This, of course, is not a complete list of used materials and devices. Some, especially meticulous, mount a system for collecting and removing condensate, as well as forced circulation systems. We will definitely say a few words about this, but only after describing the classical scheme of ventilation installation.

Supply and exhaust ventilation of automatic type

Choose a place

First of all, it is necessary to estimate where and how to arrange our ducts, so that the air movement in the cellar or cellar is correct, i.e. designate the entry and exit points.

Important!
Remember - the incoming duct (air intake) is always lower than the outlet (air vent) in the level.

Entry and exit points of the cellar ventilation system

In simpler terms, the entrance should be approximately 300-400 mm above the level of the floor screed, and the exit should be closer to the ceiling, and they should be located in opposite parts of the basement to ensure better air circulation.

Ventilation vent

Installation of the supply and exhaust system

Now directly to the installation. Certainly, it is rather not durative, if the builders in the process of casting or laying the walls of the cellar or cellar beforehand took care of the organization of ventilation holes.

Drilling holes for ventilation of the cellar

But it also happens that no one remembers this until the formation of mold and fungus on the walls because of the constant humidity. Another option, often found in old houses - an ordinary hole through the foundation in the basement or cellar, closed holey iron, or even without it.

Ventilation hole in the foundation

According to the majority of mountain builders, this is quite enough for normal airing. Here, in such cases, it becomes necessary to take a punch and make holes in the bearing monolith with your own hands (and also "more interesting" in a basement masonry basement) or overlapping. The arrangement of such openings is not a pleasant procedure. But…

With the help of special equipment it is possible to drill holes even in the thickest foundations

We will assume that having decided upon the heights and arrangement of the holes, you have already coped with this difficult task, or the builders thought everything over beforehand in casting or masonry. You just need to mount the ventilation system, armed with the tools and materials listed above.

Advice!
It is best to start the installation from the street.

Running a horizontal tap through the wall of the basement, we plant a corner to get the vertical. We install the pipe into an already existing corner, thus obtaining an output, approximately 300-400 mm above ground level. We trap the voids between the horizontal section vent pipe and a cellar or cellar wall. We dress the protective "umbrella" from the galvanizing on the vertical section, so that moisture does not get into it, and we go on to the internal installation. There, too, everything is quite simple - we put the same corner on the horizontal section, which goes inward, and mount the vertical lowering using brackets with clamps. The lower section of the vertical section of our vent pipe should be located, as mentioned above, 300-400 mm above the floor level. Agree, you can do it yourself with your own hands. Since we have ensured the installation of the duct for air supply, it is possible to begin the installation of the venting part of the ventilation system.

The supply pipe of the ventilation system of the cellar

The principle is the same, only this time a large vertical line is outward with a continuation upwards (ideally - above the roof ridge of 500 mm). Before installing it, it is insulated with mineral wool. The outer layer can be a galvanized box or, more simply, but no less productively, a thick roll of foil used in the installation of heating systems and preventing excessive heat losses. The device for the thermal insulation of the vent pipe of your ventilation can be absolutely anything, but the main thing is efficiency. If you have a cash surplus, you can use a factory multilayer pipe, insulated with foamed polyurethane with galvanized protection. We consider, basically, purely budgetary options. For fastening to the wall, the same clamping brackets are used. A galvanized umbrella is mounted over the pipe.

Outlet cellar ventilation pipe

And a little more detail about the collection and removal of condensate. The inner part of the exhaust pipe is sometimes supplied with a settler. It is a tee made, as a rule, from the same galvanizing, with two hollow horizontal parts. One of these parts is mounted on the end of the outgoing pipe and a blind vertical part, directed downwards, with a trigger valve incorporated into it.

Trigger cock for draining condensate from ventilation

Natural ventilation in the basement

Possibility of forced ventilation

If you have not managed to achieve sufficient air circulation in the basement even after such sophisticated manipulations, you should not be particularly upset. You can call for help, the ubiquitous technical progress and ensure your cellar or cellar forced system ventilation. And, of course, all this with our own hands. It is enough to make a small box and place the fan there for drawing. It is not expensive and your expenses will probably be justified. Connecting to an electrician will not be very difficult. With your own hands, anyone can do it. Just before connecting, do not forget to de-energize the internal network in order to avoid meeting with holy saints.

Fan for forced ventilation of the cellar

In general, there are quite a lot of variants of pipe arrangement with such a ventilation scheme. For example, in garages, if there are cellars in them, the exhaust pipe, as a rule, passes inside the room. In the old private sector, in the presence of a cellar, we can see only two pipes sticking out of the ground. In elite houses, you can spend hours analyzing complex schemes and marvel at the refinement of the bourgeois automatics for ventilation systems.

Cellar ventilation system

Whatever it was - the main thing is that in your cellar or cellar it was always dry and light. And it's quite possible to do this with your own hands, the main thing is to have a little diligence and imagination.By the way, labor enthusiasm can be added to your home, who sooner or later tired of visiting a dark and damp cellar.

Forced ventilation of the cellar

Most owners tend to equip them with a cellar. This helps with the convenience of storing a significant number of products. One of the most important conditions for the operation of this useful room is the creation of proper ventilation with two pipes.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the cellar

Natural ventilation in the cellar is created by installing two ducts:

supply - is designed to ensure the flow of fresh air into the cellar;
exhaust - its purpose is to remove from the room stagnant air.

As a material for them, galvanized or asbestos pipes are used. In order to determine their diameter, the following calculation is used: for 1 sq. M of room takes 26 sq. Cm air duct.

Installation of ducts implies the implementation of a certain algorithm of action, namely:

The exhaust pipe is positioned along one of the corners of the room. In this case, it should be placed in such a way that its lower end is under the ceiling. It should go vertically through the whole cellar, the roof and be above the ridge by half a meter. In addition, the ventilation of the cellar in winter should ensure a reduction in the amount of condensation and frost inside the pipe. To do this, it is warmed. This is done in this way: one pipe is laid in the other, and the gap between them is filled with a heater, which uses a mineral wool having a thickness of about 50 mm.
Installation of the supply pipe is made in a corner, which is opposite to the location of the exhaust. The open end of the supply air duct should be located at a height of 40-60 cm above the floor. The pipe passes through the ceiling, and its end is 80 cm above the floor. It is advisable to install a fine mesh on the upper opening of the duct to ensure the protection of the cellar from penetration of pests.

The principle of operation of ventilation is that due to the different specific gravity of warm air inside the room and the cold outside, it circulates through the pipes. In this case, there is a danger of a strong draft and a cooling cellar. This is especially likely for ventilation of the cellar in the winter. To prevent this from happening, it should be established on the supply and exhaust pipes special latches. This will allow you to regulate the flow of air, closing them at the right time.

Errors of cellar ventilation

Organize in a cellar the correct air exchange is very important, as it will promote long-term storage of products. If errors are made when creating the ventilation of the cellar, this will lead to the following consequences:

if the ventilation is weak, then there will be increased humidity and air stiffness, as well as rapid decay of vegetables. To solve this problem, additional fan installation on the exhaust channel will help;
if the ventilation is too strong, it contributes to the emergence of drafts and shrinkage of root crops. The air flow can be regulated by means of valves installed on the exhaust and supply air ducts.

In addition, if you have to deal with a very large room, you can improve the ventilation system by installing fans on both the exhaust and the supply pipe.