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Decoupage finishing varnish. How to coat a product with acrylic varnish after decoupage and painting. The main mistakes when finishing with varnish

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I post a lot of positive reviews on specific varnishes

Glossy parquet varnish Alpina Parkettlack colorless Manufacturer: Germany

Alkyd resin varnish, suitable for hard leather surfaces

Info from the manufacturer: For external and internal work. For interior work, use on wood and cleaned metal surfaces. When used externally on wood, it is better to pre-prime it with Alpina HOLZGRUND. Ideal for updating furniture. Not suitable for parquet floors. . silky matte, transparent varnish. economical consumption. universal application. does not turn yellow. good bottling. dries quickly. cleans well. resistant to detergents. good adhesion. good impact resistance and elasticity

Reviews: It applies well, no brush marks are left, the result is a smooth, even surface. It dries completely in a few hours, about 7-8 hours. It is practically odorless. The varnish gives a slight yellow tint, suitable for finishing coats of dark products. Those. for dark diaries on leather or antique, THE PERFECT THING!

From the manufacturer: Silky matte acrylic varnish for the protective and decorative finishing of wooden walls, panels and other products. Forms a transparent elastic film, emphasizing the structure of wood. The antiseptic included in the composition prevents biological damage to wood. For external and internal works.

Reviews: The varnish has a good consistency, white when drying becomes transparent. It is odorless and dries in minutes. They are used to cover prints and to protect pictures and products before applying finishing varnish, but they STICK TO THE SKIN

Acrylate varnish TIKKURILA Kiva-Tintable varnish price: 1 liter about 650 RUR Description: Tintable water-borne acrylate varnish for varnishing indoor surfaces subject to increased wear. An easy-to-use option - it gives the surface both color and protection. Gloss levels are semi-matte, semi-gloss and glossy. It is used for varnishing furniture, as well as children's toys, panel walls, ceilings and other wooden surfaces. Has good chemical resistance and wear resistance. Thinner - water.

Reviews: It has no color or odor, dries quickly, hands, which is important, can be washed with water! Used as a finishing touch. No complaints.

The nail polish with the giraffe is also highly praised.

The range of varnishes with GIRAFFE is represented by three types of varnishes for interior use - glossy, silky matte and semi-matte varnishes and glossy yacht varnish for exterior and interior use.

You can show your design abilities and, in accordance with fashion trends, obtain a different effect on wood - from a high-gloss finish to a silky matte or semi-matte finish using Poly-R varnishes. But whatever coating you choose, you can be sure of one thing - its quality and durability are guaranteed by the international quality standard ISO-9000 and gold and platinum awards “21st Century Quality Mark”.

Poly-R varnishes are distinguished by high decorative properties, are wear-resistant, emphasize the structure of the wood when applied in one layer, and when applied in 2-3 layers, they completely smooth out the surface of the wood.

Application area: One-component acrylic-urethane water-borne, quick-drying clear varnishes for interior use. Used for protective and decorative coating of parquet under normal operating load, as well as for processing furniture and other wood products. After drying, the varnishes form a hard transparent film that is resistant to periodic exposure to water and is highly wear-resistant. Application technology: The best decorative effect is achieved by applying undiluted varnish in 3 layers. Advantages:- Form durable coatings that are resistant to abrasion, water and detergents - Excellent wear resistance - Optimally combine hardness and elasticity - Have a good ability to smooth out surface defects - Odorless - Do not change the color of the wood The varnish is marked with the Blue Angel sign and is not dangerous for people, animals and plants. Country of origin: Germany.

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ZAPON!

I use it as a finishing touch ACRYLIC!!! water-soluble varnish for greater moisture and wear resistance... It is transparent and colorless. Dries very quickly. Due to the fact that it is liquid, it practically impregnates the layer of acrylic varnish. It is not for nothing that people also call it “liquid cellophane”. After drying, it makes the coating “indestructible”... A 0.5 liter bottle costs about 60 rubles.

For those who like to work with acrylic varnish (of which I include myself), this is an excellent varnish! Because The capon can withstand from -40 to +130! This varnish is sold in all hardware stores.

But! Attention! Tsapon is “friendly” only with acrylic varnish!

Purpose:

The varnish is intended for protective and decorative coating of products made of ferrous and non-ferrous metals, brick, as well as stone, ceramics, wood, glass and other materials operating at temperatures from -30 °C to +150 °C. The varnish is mixed with various metallic (aluminum and bronze powder, mother-of-pearl) and inorganic (chromium oxide, iron oxide, red lead, etc.) pigments to color the above materials. In this case, the resulting composition is suitable for use within 24 hours from the moment of mixing.

Advantages:

Dries quickly;

High hardness of the varnish film;

High water resistance of the coating;

High adhesion;

Painting a wide range of materials.

Application area:

Decorative painting of products from a wide variety of materials;

Application to the surfaces of non-ferrous metals to prevent their tarnishing;

Preparing paints at home for application to almost any surface.

Compound:

Organic solvents, acrylic copolymer, synthetic resin.

Mode of application:

The varnish is applied to a clean, dry surface with a brush, spray or dipping method in 2-3 layers with intermediate drying for 20 minutes. The drying time of the varnish is 30 minutes. Consumption - 200-250 ml/m2 when applied in 2-3 layers. Dilute if necessary with solvents 646, 647, 648.

Best before date: 24 months.

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Tikkurila, Assa - good varnishes, no doubt! BUT THE PRICE!!! 600-700 rub. I think it's expensive.

I recently bought acrylic varnish, made in Russia, for 0.9 kg - I think 170 rubles.

Here's the jar:

So far I've covered a couple of jobs with it, no complaints, I liked it... especially the price!

Today in stores you can find a huge selection of varnishes, both artistic and construction. And of course, a lot of questions arise: which varnish is better to choose, how to use it, how to store it, what to apply it, etc. In this article we will try to answer most of them. We will deliberately not indicate companies and names of varnishes - you yourself can choose those that suit you in terms of price and quality.

Functions of varnish in decoupage:

1. Protective function - varnish and are used as finishing to protect the finished product from environmental influences - dirt, moisture, scratches, etc.
2. Many decoupage artists use varnish to glue motifs onto the workpiece.
3. Varnish and are also used to mask the border of the motif to remove the “step” between the edge of the motif and the base. To do this, apply several layers of varnish, allowing each layer to dry well, and the convex parts are treated with sandpaper to level the entire surface. The procedure is repeated until ideal smoothness to the touch is achieved.
4. If you plan to tint the background of the work after gluing the motif or draw shadows, the motif must be protected with varnish. Paint can be easily removed from a varnished surface if you accidentally touch the picture.
5. If your product involves a lot of fine work and various decorative effects, it is recommended to seal each completed layer with varnish to make it easier to correct possible errors and shortcomings. This especially applies to working with glass and plastic.
6. The actual decorative effects themselves (craquelure, three-dimensional elements, patination) are also often made using special varnishes.
7. Varnishes are also used to prepare motifs for decoupage - printouts are varnished on top, and napkins can be sprayed on the back with spray varnish to make them stronger.
8. Varnishes can also be used for priming some absorbent surfaces (MDF, fiberboard, chipboard, ceramics, etc.), as well as, conversely, smooth surfaces (glass, plastic) to increase adhesion.
9. Tinted varnishes can be used independently to decorate products (for example, to treat the internal surfaces of boxes, boxes, tea houses, etc.).
10. Some types of varnishes can be used as solvents or binders when creating decorative compositions.

Types of varnishes used in decoupage:

1. Acrylic and acrylate varnishes
The most commonly used in decoupage. Suitable for almost all purposes listed above. They dry quickly enough to form a dense, indelible film; when thickened, they are easily diluted with water. Acrylate varnish differs from acrylic only in additives that make it more elastic. Acrylate varnish is even better for preparing prints. After using acrylic varnishes, tools can be easily washed with water and detergent or soap.

2. Polyurethane varnishes
Polyurethane varnishes are water-based and non-water-based. The latter give more lasting coating, but for reasons of safety and environmental friendliness, decoupage artists often use the former. Polyurethane varnish (for example, for baths and saunas) perfectly protects against moisture, so it is often used for products that will subsequently come into contact with water (cutting boards, trays, hangers and bathroom boxes, street signs, etc.). After working with polyurethane varnish, brushes are washed in water and soap (water-based varnishes) or in a special solvent (non-aqueous varnishes). We pay special attention: polyurethane varnishes dry quite quickly, but fully “gain” their properties within a few days, so works coated with such varnish must be kept in place before using them.

3. Alkyd varnishes
Alkyd varnishes (for example, parquet or yacht varnishes) provide a very dense, stable coating.

To rough external influences. That is why alkyd varnishes are most often used to coat products that will be used “mercilessly” (keychains, “street” items). Alkyd varnishes are not recommended to be dried with a hairdryer; they may
behave very unpredictably (give yellowness, stains, bubbles, crack), and under natural conditions they dry for a long time (from 2 hours to several days depending on the thickness of the layer and the humidity in the room), so be patient. The result is really worth it! Brushes after alkyd varnishes are difficult to wash and only in special solvents (see instructions for the varnish), so I recommend using either disposable inexpensive brushes/rollers that you don’t mind throwing away, or buying alkyd varnish in spray form.

4. Decorative varnishes
As the name suggests, these are varnishes for creating decorative effects - craquelure varnishes, bitumen varnish, beveled varnish and others. We will make a separate review on them, so we won’t

Go into detail here.

5. Nitrolac
Nitrovarnish, like alkyd varnishes, is used for products that will be exposed to rough external influences. The advantage of nitro varnish is that it dries quickly (from 20 minutes to an hour). But it is very smelly and harmful to health, so we recommend working with it only in a special mask or respirator and in a well-ventilated area.

6. Tsapon
We have placed the capon in a separate section because it has one important property - heat resistance. They cover products that will then be exposed to

High temperatures (for example, hot pads). In principle, Tsapon is a universal varnish; it can be used simply as a finishing varnish, especially for difficult weather conditions (instead of alkyd or nitro varnish). It is significantly cheaper, easier to apply, and diluted with acetone. Tsapon smells, you need to work with it in a ventilated area. The brushes are washed first with a solvent (you can just use white spirit), and then with soap and water.

7. Vitreous varnish
Vitreous varnish gives a durable elastic film,

It is resistant to abrasion, so it is often used by decoupage artists to cover passport covers, wallets, notepads and other natural and artificial leather products that are expected to be bent, rubbed and simply removed from the bag frequently. In addition, glassy varnish is highly glossy and can be used as a finish when a perfectly smooth, shiny surface is required, but you don’t want to bother with epoxy resins. The varnish is easily diluted with water, and tools are also easily washed with water and detergents. Vitreous varnish has only 2 drawbacks: high price and “capriciousness” in terms of transportation and storage (for example, it does not like cold and can change its properties).

8. Shellac varnish
Shellac is a decorative varnish used for patination of finished products, revealing the depth of color, especially when working with paints of metallic shades. Shellac varnish

Also used for fixing bitumen and gold leaf. Often used for woodworking, it emphasizes the natural structure of wood and adds a soft shine without creating a varnish film. When working with shellac, brushes should be kept in alcohol; tools should also be washed first with alcohol and then with soap and water. It dries quickly enough, has almost no odor and evaporates easily.

Varnishing tools:

1. Brush
We devoted a separate article to brushes, where we examined in detail the methods of working and caring for them after varnishing, so we will not dwell on this point.
2. Roller
Foam rollers are most often used for varnishing. We recommend choosing rollers made of denser foam rubber: the greater the porosity, the greater the absorption and consumption of varnish.
3. Foam sponges and sponges
Sponges are most often used for spot application of decorative varnishes (for example, bitumen) or when working with stencils.
4. Special tampons
To work with non-aqueous varnishes, for the sake of convenience and economy, you can make special tampons. This will be discussed in detail in one of our future publications.
5. Palette knife
Some types of varnishes (for example, beveled or varnishes for 3D effects) can be applied and leveled with a palette knife.

Here's a little review we got. In the next publication we will take a detailed look at finishing varnishes and their use depending on the operating conditions of decoupage products.

Varnishing is the last stage of decoupage.

This last stage in decoupage is perhaps the most important. Not only the appearance of your work depends on it, but also the possibility of its further use. In some cases, this is extremely important: when it comes, for example, to tea houses, boxes or notebooks. After all, you must agree that these items must be resistant to abrasion.

When we first learn about decoupage, our hands are itching to try it and we rush to purchase materials. In most cases, beginning needlewomen purchase cheaper materials. And this is also correct. After all, we don’t know in advance whether we will like this technique at all. And the further... In general, further we are limited only by our imagination. We want to try different techniques, application possibilities, specific features of different manufacturers, but at the same time our favorite companies and compositions appear, which we remain unchanged.

Why varnish the product?

When decoupaging, we first varnish the products to give them a finished look. This way we hide all the irregularities. In this case, the number of layers of varnish can reach 50-60. Between this it is necessary to sand the surface. If your work is done very well and there are no wrinkles, if you use cloths, you only need to cover it 3 times. After the first layer, it is advisable to sand it and that’s it. This applies more to experienced decoupage artists. If you are just starting out with this technique, then varnishing is your opportunity to correct shortcomings in your work.

And of course - protection. We protect our surface from abrasions and scratches. Of course, for wooden blanks, manufacturers usually use durable types of trees and solid parts so that they do not dry out or change shape. But if you use a blank made of pressed cardboard or fiberboard, acrylic paints may change colors, fade in the sun, or if moisture gets in, the work will dry out altogether.

Brief information about varnish.

Varnish is a liquid capable of producing a transparent, shiny film after drying in a thin layer.

Varnishes are solutions of solids in liquids that can either evaporate or dry; solid substances are various resins, and liquid solvents are ethyl (wine) and methyl (wood) alcohols, essential and vegetable drying oils. The resin solution applied to the surface to be varnished dries, leaving a thin, transparent and shiny film (in practice called varnish), the properties and qualities of which determine the merits of the varnish taken.

In foreign languages, the words are French. laque, German lak means paint obtained by precipitation of organic paint pigments with metal salts. Such paints are called cormorants in Russian, and the Russian word “varnish”, as a designation of a liquid with the above properties, is translated into English words in Western Europe. varnish, Firniss, fr. vernis.Extract from Wikipedia.

Varnishes for decoupage are divided into two types:

Finishing varnish is the name given to the varnish that is applied when finishing work on a product.

Craquelure varnish is a varnish used to give products a decorative look, in most cases for aging.

There are a lot of manufacturers of both these and other varnishes. As a rule, in one line of a certain manufacturer there are both finishing varnishes, they can be glossy and matte, as well as varnishes for craquelure. Sometimes, when using craquelure varnishes, the finishing step can be the first craquelure step. It is important to use it correctly.

If you are interested in craquelure varnishes, then separate articles on our website are devoted to individual companies and their features. We will talk about finishing varnishes later in this article.

To save money, you can use construction varnishes. There is nothing to even say about comparing prices with a special varnish for decoupage. The difference is colossal. The volume is larger. But no one guarantees the durability of your product. This varnish can also be very sticky.

In order to get a guarantee for the varnish, you need to buy special varnishes for decoupage. They provide a durable, abrasion- and scratch-resistant film. Another important feature is that they lie on the surface very evenly, without streaks or drips. And despite their relative high cost, you save your time and effort without wasting it on an endless number of layers.

But even in this case there are some disadvantages. Sometimes even one manufacturer betrays its quality by changing something in the composition. As they say, everything is learned by trial and error.

Experienced needlewomen choose the best in terms of price-quality ratio. So, they can use special construction varnishes, only from guaranteed companies, mainly produced in Germany and other European countries. After all, they are responsible for their quality if the varnish is used correctly.

What problems happen with varnish?

1. The varnish turns yellow. This means that the varnish is based on patina. This must be taken into account, because sometimes it will only work to give an antique look. But if we want to preserve the white color of the product, this will spoil the work.

2. The varnish is peeling off. This can happen if you use different varnishes. One is water based and the other is water based. Often such combinations of varnishes are used to obtain craquelure. Only one layer needs to be dried and then applied the second. Otherwise, the second layer of water will simply roll off on the first one or there will be gaps, and the work can be considered spoiled.

3. The varnish sticks. No matter how much time you dry it and it seems like a lot of time has passed, the varnish does not stop sticking.

There may be several reasons for this:

The most common is low-quality varnish. As a rule, these are construction varnishes from inexpensive manufacturers.

Another reason may be the intended purpose of the varnish. For example, if you apply wood varnish to a plastic surface, it will most likely stick.

It's also possible that you didn't sand the surface well. The surface is poorly sanded, in rare cases it sticks. It needs to be sanded well and covered with another layer. This happens extremely rarely.

Stir the varnish from the bottom well before using it. This can also serve you badly. Subsequently, the varnish may stick.

Among the construction varnishes that are popular with experienced decoupage artists, we can recommend Varatan varnish, Tikurilla Parketti-Yassya, Sinteko, Tikurilla Kiva. According to the vast majority of needlewomen, they never turn yellow or stick, and dry very quickly. Yes, they are more expensive than other construction varnishes, but much cheaper if you compare one volume with decoupage varnishes. Otech is ideal both as a primer and as a topcoat.

I'll tell you about a problem that once happened to me.

I decided to decorate the diary in vintage style. She did everything correctly, according to technology. Sanded it and primed it with a special primer for plastic. Covered with white acrylic paint. At this stage everything was just fine for me. I pasted a decoupage card. The painting was easy.

Do you know how I ruined it? At that time I had not worked with Pebeo carquelure. There are very few instructions for this craquelure on the Internet. Translation only. I covered with the first step, waited as instructed and covered with the second step. Then it was written to overwrite. I rubbed it over and over again and it turned out to be a mess. I decided to wash off the second layer altogether. Washed it away. By the way, the second layer was water-based. Then, after washing, I covered it again with the first step and then with the second. The result was cracks (beautiful, by the way). But I covered them with pastel. Then I covered it with several layers of acrylic varnish, which I had already worked with. After drying, the notepad becomes sticky. More than three months have passed and nothing has changed. I've already made myself a new notebook.

Then I took a board and experimented with this Pebeo craquelure with feeling, sense and arrangement. After covering the second step, his favorite thing is to be covered again with the first step as a finisher. Then I decided to write detailed instructions for using it to make it easier for people. You can find it.

And here is my notebook, which is still sticky. This can be seen by the white paper stuck to the back. But I no longer strive to remove it. I left him alone.

Let's first find out why we need varnish.

The main task of any varnish is to protect, with its hard film - transparent or colored - the surface that it covers. In addition, a very important function of varnish is to preserve and emphasize the beauty of the surface being painted.

Varnishes are a large group of materials, which are all solutions of film-forming substances - in water or organic solvents. Usually varnishes are applied as the last mandatory layer in a multi-layer coating. Varnish will improve the performance properties of any surface.

Varnishes can be selected according to the degree of gloss (quality of reflection) that it ultimately produces. There are high-gloss (very shiny), glossy, semi-gloss, semi-matte, matte varnishes.

The most thorough division of varnishes is considered to be the division of their supply. Let's consider the most basic varnishes, qualities and areas of their application.

Alkyd varnishes are synthetic alkyd resins in organic solvents. Remember that organic solvents are toxic, and not only have a strong, unpleasant odor. After some time after drying, the smell is not noticeable. They can be applied not only with a brush or roller, but also by spraying. When dry, alkyd varnishes form very beautiful surfaces. Some of them are used for interior work, others for exterior work. They are the most common in everyday life. This type of coating is used for both interior (more often) and exterior decoration (less often). Alkyd varnishes are quite durable, resistant and well resistant to moisture and are almost colorless. Their rather big drawback is their drying period - as much as 72 hours. In order to somehow reduce this time, manufacturers of alkyd varnishes add special hardeners to its composition, which can reduce the drying period to 24 hours.

Advice: you can cover it, but not things that children will play with later. Work in a well-ventilated area. Varnishes can be absolutely transparent, or they can turn yellow.

Close to alkyd varnishes, but an alternative option is the use of alkyd-urethane varnishes. Urethane groups are also added to alkyd resin solutions, resulting in alkyd-urethane varnishes, or uralkyd varnishes. These varnishes dry faster than alkyd ones (in 6-12 hours) and have significantly higher wear resistance. They have a distinct odor. Almost all varnishes turn yellow.

Nitrovarnishes (another name for nitrocellulose varnishes) are another type of varnishes used in interior finishing work. From a chemical point of view, they are solutions of varnish colloxylin, resins and plasticizers in a mixture of volatile organic solvents. Nitrovarnishes have both advantages and disadvantages.

Among the advantages: they dry in just a few hours, adhere very well to the surface and completely fill the pores of wood, are convenient for sanding and processing, have quite high strength, some contain alkyd resins, which increases their moisture resistance..)
Among the main big disadvantages of nitro varnish is that it is harmful to human health, since they are prepared on the basis of toxic solvents. On the surface, nitro varnishes form transparent, colorless, quick-drying films.

Advice: If you still choose nitro varnish, you should work with it only in a respirator.

Acrylic varnishes - water-based varnishes - are considered one of the most environmentally friendly (do not contain organic solvents), fireproof and harmless, and therefore they are used everywhere. Due to the fact that the base is water, it is mainly used in interior finishing work. Acrylic varnishes have high levels of strength and elasticity; they are able to preserve the original color of the product. Acrylic varnishes are dependent on the microclimate of the premises. Acrylic varnishes dry faster than alkyd varnishes (convenient for interlayer drying). But in order for a complete film to finally form on the surface, it takes 10-14 days.

Advantages of acrylic varnishes: the result is a crystal-transparent shade without yellowness; practically odorless and waterproof; good performance indicators.

Polyurethane varnishes – One of the most popular, along with acrylic varnishes, are polyurethane varnishes. They differ from other varnishes in their high strength, resistance to abrasion, mechanical and chemical influences. Polyurethane varnishes can be used to cover almost the entire house - from parquet to a musical instrument; their scope of application is very wide.

Manufacturers today especially highlight the group of water-based polyurethane varnishes. They combine the beneficial qualities of acrylic varnishes (environmentally friendly) and polyurethane varnishes (abrasion resistance).

The basis for alcohol varnishes is alcohol. Natural resins such as shellac and sandarac are dissolved in it. Due to the high rate of evaporation of alcohol and the low rate of dissolution of resins, a large number of layers can be applied to the surface without destroying the previous ones. The coating made from alcohol varnishes is mechanically strong, with good adhesion to different surfaces and high gloss. These coatings polish well, but are considered to have low water resistance. Each of us could see polyester varnishes in life on polished furniture. Polyester varnishes are a multi-component material and their application requires special precision. Surfaces coated with this varnish have a characteristic hard film of great thickness. The films are resistant to reagents and water.

Each style has its own varnish. Decoupage varnishes increase the brightness of tones, and surfaces coated with them look very impressive. For convenience, preference should be given to colorless varnish: if necessary, it can be easily tinted by adding a little ACRYLIC PAINT.

Based on personal experience, I would recommend water-based varnishes; they are less harmful, do not have a strong odor, and dry quickly. Therefore, the decor of your product will be completed faster.

Acrylic varnishes are mostly milky in color and become transparent when applied and dry. They form a thinner film on the surface, so you can sand the work only after 5-6 layers of varnish

Synthetic-based varnishes, almost all of them tend to turn the work yellow, of course, this gives them a certain antique charm, but we don’t always need yellowness.

We have sorted out what kind of varnishes there are. Now let’s see what the craftswomen look like and what they say about specific names of craftswomen in the vastness of the world’s information web.

Information from the Internet

Perfect option. POLYURETHANE VARNISH from the American company Petri. There is even a special mark on it that when dried it is safe for infants. Absolutely matte. Doesn't smell. Dries quickly. In short - only advantages. But no! There is one minus - it is more difficult to apply than all other varnishes, because it is very liquid. It’s like water, but it’s better not to use a brush twice in the same place (although some people don’t follow this rule). Not recommended for light-colored surfaces and glass.

Aqua - varnish "Poly-R" parquet silky matte

One-component acrylic-urethane water-borne, quick-drying clear varnish for interior use. Used for protective and decorative coating of parquet under normal operating load, as well as for processing furniture and other wood products.

After drying, the varnish forms a hard transparent film that is resistant to periodic exposure to water and is highly wear-resistant.

The varnish is marked with the Blue Angel sign and is not dangerous for people, animals and plants.

The base must be dry, smooth, free of dirt and detergent residues. Clean previously varnished surfaces from old peeling varnish, sand until matte, pre-prime exposed surfaces with varnish diluted 5-10% with water.

Before use, mix the varnish thoroughly and apply a thin layer to the surface. The best decorative effect is achieved by applying undiluted varnish in 3 layers.

Application conditions: Do not apply at substrate and atmospheric temperatures below +15°C and above +20°C and relative humidity exceeding 70%. Application tools: brush, roller, spray.

The varnish turns yellow, that is, after coating it gives the work a yellowish tint. This means it is not suitable for light surfaces. Suitable for vintage style work or dark surfaces.

These 2 polishes are praised more than others.

There is also my favorite Acrylate varnish TIKKURILA Kiva - Tintable water-borne acrylate varnish for varnishing indoor surfaces subject to increased wear. An easy-to-use option – it gives the surface both color and protection. Gloss levels are semi-matte, semi-gloss and glossy. It is used for varnishing furniture, as well as children's toys, panel walls, ceilings and other wooden surfaces. Has good chemical resistance and wear resistance. Thinner – water.
Reviews: It has no color or odor, dries quickly, hands, which is important, can be washed with water! Used as a finishing touch. No complaints.

True, there is one problem with it, because of which not everyone likes it, when applied it bubbles, but this problem can be easily dealt with. And one thing, after applying it to the stain, it cracks. By the way, the effect is very interesting, I liked it. Does not yellow, not recommended for outdoor use.

Sauna varnish Olympus

Characteristics and method of application (information from the site http://dcpg.ru)

OLYMPUS Sauna varnish – Transparent water-based varnish with bioprotective additives. The varnish is non-toxic and non-flammable. Thanks to the acrylic base, wood varnish is practically odorless. Before use, mix the water-based varnish thoroughly. OLYMP sauna varnish in a jar can have a white tint; after drying, the varnish becomes completely transparent. Apply by brush, roller or spray, distributing the varnish evenly along the wood grain. Do not work at temperatures below +5°C. At an air temperature of +20°C and a relative humidity of no more than 65%, the surface drying time from dust is no more than 1 hour. The next coat of varnish can be applied after 24 hours. The surface is ready for use after three days.

SOLVENT (water, however). Wash tools with solvent immediately after finishing work.

Tikkuril Unika urethane-alkyd varnish is super fast drying. Contains components that slow down the yellowing effect of UV radiation on wood. Tinted varnished materials protect more effectively from UV radiation than non-tinted ones. Designed for varnishing wooden surfaces inside and outside buildings. It has a distinct but not strong odor.

I think for the first time, we will have enough information on construction varnishes; later the article will be supplemented.

There are some other good varnishes in our business . Since it is sometimes difficult to achieve a smooth surface in varnishing, but it is very necessary, this is where aerosol varnishes are very helpful. I advise you to apply them as the very last finishing layer, i.e. Several layers of another varnish must first be applied. Because they tend to run out quickly.

There are also quite a lot of them, each one is selected by sampling. For some, the smell is not a problem, but for others, it’s the opposite. I will say this, they all have a smell, so it’s better to work in a ventilated area (I do this either in the hallway or in the bathtub when everyone is sleeping). In terms of price, here the difference in price with special varnishes for decoupage (the bottom 4 varnishes) is not very significant if we talk about good varnishes.

Water-based liquid acrylic varnish. The varnish is resistant to moisture. Used to protect various indoor images on cardboard, wood, metal, porcelain, glass and modeling paste.

Colorless varnish, dries quickly, contains a matting agent. Do not inhale, flammable. Do not give to children. Protects the surface from atmospheric and other influences. It is recommended to shake the can well before use. Spray with a quick pass, holding the can in a vertical position at a distance of 30 cm from the design. The varnish is used for external and internal finishing works.

Aerosol glassy varnish for decoupage IDEA

The varnish is recommended for fixing works done using the Decoupage technique. Being a universal product, the varnish is suitable for fixing and protecting any decorative items. Perfectly protects against scratches, chips and other mechanical impacts. Forms a transparent glossy and crystal clear coating, enhancing the brightness of colors. Does not turn yellow over time. It is applied evenly, without leaving marks characteristic of working with a brush. Quick-drying composition.

Varnishes purchased at a furniture store.

I use this varnish and buy it at a hardware store. The varnish has a smell, but it dissipates quickly enough; the work itself, coated with varnish, ceases to smell after about a week; I must immediately make a reservation that the smell from the coated product is barely audible. There is one thing this varnish does have, at low drying temperatures it forms cracks, especially glossy ones. Unfortunately, the cracks cannot be rubbed over with pastels and special powders or shadows; there is an idea that oil paints can rub them off. But the problem is that this is not a 2-component craquelure and we will not be able to carefully wash off the grout. Glossy varnish if you apply 2-3 layers or 1, but thick ones also cause cracks. Although these cracks have their own charm.

Let's consider special artistic varnishes (artistic - this means a special varnish for decoupage) for decoupage, which the decoupage industry offers us and which we can buy in our city.

Acrylic glossy varnish "Sonnet" - complaints about this varnish are mainly that even after a long time the surface remains sticky. Yes, it happens, no doubt, but after conducting an experiment and applying at least 15 layers of varnish to the product, I was convinced that it stopped sticking.

Matte acrylic varnish “Tair”

A universal finishing varnish that forms a durable, uniform matte finish. Softens the brightness of paint tones and protects against environmental influences. Apply with a soft flat brush to the surface of the work after it has completely dried.

Does not turn yellow. Mixes with any water-soluble paints. Can be diluted with water.

Stir before use.

Adhesive Varnish Kleber+Lack VIVA-DECOR (glossy, matte)

Magic glue varnish that won't tear even the most capricious napkins! Everything will be just perfect!!!

Glue varnish is used for gluing napkin motifs in decoupage. Apply with a brush, from the center to the edges. After drying, no additional application of varnish is required.

"Mod Podge" is an absolutely universal material for decoupage. They can be used for priming, gluing, and coating as varnish. It is suitable for wood, ceramics, glass, and fabric at all stages of work. Actually, apart from it, no materials are needed at all. It dries very quickly; before coating with Mod Podge, use only water-based materials, otherwise it will dry poorly. It is very heat-resistant, objects coated with it can be doused with boiling water, but it was originally intended for hot dishes.
There are: yellow - matte-silk (universal); cherry - “sparkling” (universal); red - shiny (universal), blue - for glass, green - for ceramics, dark blue - for fabric. In fact, they are all universal, interchangeable, and can be used for any surface, both as primers, as glue, and as varnishes.

Water-based gloss varnish

Finishing glossy water-based varnish. Gives the product a shiny look. Protects against wear. It is recommended to apply with a soft synthetic brush in several layers. When applying the first layer, it is recommended to dilute the varnish with water in a ratio of 20-30% to obtain a uniform surface and facilitate the installation of subsequent layers. Let each layer dry for 20-30 minutes. This creates a strong and homogeneous film. Dries at room temperature. Wash brushes with water. Made in Italy (Ferrario).

Glossy water-based varnish No. 752

Transparent, very resistant to external influences. Protects your work from wear and scratches and gives it shine. Apply over the surface to be decorated using a clean, soft, flat brush. Dry completely in a clean, well-ventilated area within one day. Creates a glossy surface. Made in Italy (Maimeri).

Water-based glassy varnish

Ready-to-use finishing varnish. It can also be used on flexible substrates, such as leather, artificial leather, on which it forms a well-stretched film of great thickness, shiny and light, resistant to atmospheric factors and mechanical stress. Apply with a brush in several layers. Before applying repeated layers, wait until the previous ones are completely dry. Dries at room temperature. When dried in the oven at a temperature of 80°C, the home plate becomes scratch resistant. Suitable for all surfaces. Wash brushes with soap and water. Manufacturer Italy (Ferrario). It is not advisable to use in combination with other varnishes.

Glassy water-based varnish No. 744

This water-based protective top coat is ideal for decoupage techniques.

Forms a thick glassy glass that is resistant to scratches, abrasive wear and external influences.

Film. Can be used as a primer for glass (glass decoupage), after drying

Forms an absolutely transparent homogeneous film with a glassy sheen. Does not leave brush marks. Irreversible. Manufacturer Italy (Maimeri). It is not advisable to use in combination with other varnishes.

These glassy varnishes are good for working on soft surfaces such as leather, and for example on diaries, because... they do not form cracks at the bends.
Matte (gel) varnish with wax effect

A ready-to-use finishing transparent varnish of gelatin consistency gives painting and decoupage a “waxy” effect, while forming a protective film that is very scratch-resistant. Due to its density, it is very suitable for decorating vertical surfaces. Apply one or two layers of varnish with a soft brush, waiting for the previous layer to dry completely, until a smooth and uniform surface is obtained. Dries at room temperature. Wash tools in solvent. Made in Italy (Ferrario). Very good for antique products, and if there are areas of unpainted wood.

Porcelan - primer and glue for glass

Particularly recommended for gluing any type of paper, napkins and fabric to glass. Transparent, does not leave streaks or stains on the product. It dries in about half an hour, after which it becomes very durable and resistant to water. Can be used as a primer for subsequent application of paints, even those not suitable for special work on glass. Brief firing for 30 minutes at a temperature of 100°C further improves the durability and adhesion of paints to the base. One thing, if you are going to bake, then use glue special for baking, or glue it directly to the porcelain.

Wash brushes with water immediately after use. Made in Italy (Ferrario), this varnish is used to bake your product so that it can be actively used in the future; it is used in conjunction with the same glue. We wrote about it in the article about adhesives.

The material was prepared by the teacher of the Hobby School - Svetlana (Vizis)