home Sockets and switches

What is a socket block and how to install it? How to connect the socket block: installation rules and wiring diagrams

Easy installation of the outlet can not be called. This will require not only ingenuity, but also skill. To facilitate understanding of the work, we suggest that you read the information in the article.

You will receive a detailed step-by-step description of the entire procedure, how to put the socket on a concrete wall and fix it, in the most accessible and understandable language.

What we need to make an outlet:

Pencil;
Roulette;
Level;
Perforator with spets. a nozzle (crown);
Drill (8 mm), nozzle blade;
Primer, putty, plaster, brush;
LABOR HANDS!

Markup

Using a pencil, mark the axial center where the future outlet will be located. If you plan to install adjacent or a block of outlets in a concrete wall, then observe the distance from the marking of the previous mechanism of 7.1 cm (the average interaxial distance of the podzetetnikov).

Draw two axes for the center: vertical and horizontal. Make lines of good length. This will serve as a guideline for the most even installation of the juniper.

Mounting holes

Let's take a closer look at how to make a socket in a concrete wall. This stage is perhaps the most difficult. Here you need strength, accuracy, sleight of hand and, of course, a puncher.

First use the drill: drill a hole in the intended center, a depth of 5-6 cm. Then insert the crown for concrete and mark the dimensions for the future hole.

For more light work, use a drill to make 10 to 12 holes along the intended circle. Then proceed directly to drilling holes using a crown. Groovings of 5 cm will be enough.

Wiring

After preparing the holes for the podrozetniki it is thrown to the sockets. Best of all, when for each device is a separate electrical.

Replacing or installing the outlet in most cases does not require the call of the master at home. , we will describe in the next article.

On the installation of the outlet with grounding, learn from this.

Preparation and attachment of juniper

This stage requires particularly detailed consideration. It's not even that the process of installing podrozetnikov difficult or difficult to understand - it's just a very delicate work.

To begin, prepare the masthead (s) for installation: remove unnecessary connecting elements, as well as plugs designed to conduct an electric cable.

Attach the jar with the cable stretched into the previously prepared hole on the wall. is he should not sit unevenly, stick out, be tilted in some direction. After fitting, proceed to prepare the hole in the wall for attachment.

Remove dust from the wall with a brush. Then apply a coat of a special primer. This will ensure the reliability and durability of the installation.

After the primer has dried, put a putty or plaster mixture on the basis of gypsum inside the hole. You can also successfully use ordinary alabaster. The main thing is to work fast, because gypsum has the property of quickly drying out.

Insert into the newly applied layer of gypsum mixture an embankment with the cable inside. When installing, be guided by the planned vertical and horizontal axes. The receptacle must also be flush with the wall.

Do not rush to remove the mixture caught inside the jar: it is much more convenient to clean it when it withered.

Finishing and inserting accessories

Wait until the mixture has cured and clots, then proceed to finish, because hurrying with finishing works, you run the risk of breaking the fixation of the junkets.

First you will need to prime the sockets, and then cover with plaster all the cracks, chips, holes and more carefully cover the podzroetniki. We wait for the complete drying and plastering-plaster the walls until a smooth surface is formed.

Top with glue wallpaper or paint the wall. You can proceed to the last stage of installation.

Warning: Be sure to de-energize the apartment. It is best to turn off the required circuit breaker on the electrical panel.

Sockets are installed in different ways, depending on the type (spring / screw terminals). We will consider the process of installing a socket with spring terminals.

Preparation, cleaning of wires (1-1,2 cm). After stripping the veins, place the wires in the shape of a spread cat's claws.
Inserting wires into the terminals. Blue zero - to the left terminal, phase white - to the right, yellow-green - to the center.
Installation of the mechanism in the sub-socket. Aligning horizontally and vertically, use the building level.
Mounting the frame and front panels. Screwdriver, sleight of hand and no fraud.

We bring to your attention video, how to transfer and install the internal socket in a concrete wall:

We hope that our instructions have fully resolved your questions regarding the installation and transfer of sockets in concrete walls.

It is not necessary to look for a specialist for installing outlets and switches. These works can be done by yourself and not worse than professional workers. It is enough to follow simple rules and comply with the standards. That all turned out neatly, you will have to purchase or borrow part of the instrument.

Installation rules for sockets and switches

The position of the sockets on the walls is determined in accordance with the tasks assigned, the distribution of household and multimedia equipment and convenience. Existing standards define the requirements for the distribution of outlets and switches, and refers to the permissible distances from the installation site from fences, openings and floor:

The distance from the floor in the living areas is 30 cm for the sockets and 90 for the switches and dimmers.
The distance from the floor for outlets in the kitchen is 110-120 cm (for a washing machine, a dishwasher is allowed a height of 100 cm).
The distance from adjacent walls, partitions and other stationary objects is 15 cm.
Groups of sockets and switches are mounted horizontally on one line with each other.
The distance between the centers of two outlets in the group is 71 mm.

All distances are measured, starting from the level of the final floor covering and wall cladding, which should be taken into account when preparing the podzheetnikov at the initial stages of repair.

Choice of podrozetnik depending on the type and material of the walls

Today only plastic is used as a material for mounting boxes. When choosing the following characteristics:

Method of installation. In full-bodied or hollow walls. The latter have special clips for fixing to gypsum board or other sheet wall material.
Dimensions. Standard diameter 71 mm in diameter, while the depth varies. Conventional outlets are installed in boxes with a depth of 45 mm, dimmers and special switches and sockets in the deepened podrozetniki 60 mm.
Single or butt. At the butt-end, composite podzroetnikov there is a special ledge in the lower part for grouping them in a row with the formation of a channel for laying the commutation bus. Ready-made combinations of combined 2 or 4 podrozetnikov are also produced.
Presence of fasteners. On the edges of the front part of the box are the stands with self-tapping screws for fixing the sockets with the corresponding perforation on the mounting plate.

Markup

Identify the places in which will be installed podrozetniki. In accordance with the requirements, the center of the outlet is marked. Draw a vertical and horizontal line in the level with the intersection at the marked point. Define a circle with a diameter of 72 mm. In brick walls, it is desirable that the center of the mark be on the body of the brick, and not on the seam, in the gypsum plasterboard walls - excluding the approach to the profile of the frame.

Preparing a niche or hole

How to prepare a niche for installing the juniper is determined in accordance with the design of the wall or partition and the material from which it is made.

The design determines the order of actions:

Full bodies (concrete, brick, foam concrete, etc.).
Hollow (drywall, chipboard, etc.).

In accordance with the material of the walls, the tool and methods of sampling the material from the niche are selected.

Concrete, foam concrete, brick

There are three ways to drill a notch:

Angle grinder and a diamond circle.
Drilling holes around the circumference.
Use the crown of the desired diameter.

With the help of the USM (Bulgarian)

With the help of an angled grinder (grinder) and a diamond wheel, two horizontal slits are made along the upper and lower boundary of the circle and two vertical ones on the sides. The naves are made so that the depth of the cut is at least 45 mm at all angles. Then, using the chisel and hammer, the material is selected inside.

Disadvantages of the method are huge: dust in colossal quantities, the output of the slots is far beyond the required, the square groove instead of the round one - the increase in the volume of the filling solution.

Using a puncher and a drill

Accurate allows you to handle drilling along the circumference of the future deepening. Are used borax for concrete with a diameter of 6-8 mm. Drill better directly on the marked circle or from its outer side on the tangents. The distance between each new drilling is approximately 8-10 mm.

Perforator and crown

Most effective method - use of a crown 68 mm with winning teeth or diamond spraying. For foam concrete, the use of a crown for gypsum plasterboard is allowed:

Make a recess in the center of the mark.
Fasten the crown in the puncher, set the limiter to a depth of 55-60 mm.
Attach the drill in the center of the crown to the prepared groove. Drill to start gradually with a few short visits.
As you deepen, remove the crown and remove the concrete dust and crumb.
After the passage to the full depth, remove the crown and free from the concrete place for the cheetah with a chisel and a hammer or a perforator with a shovel, then equalize the bottom of the resulting niche.

Drywall or other sheet material

A special crown is used for gypsum boards with teeth 68 mm in diameter. Use a screwdriver or a bump stop to prepare a recess in the center of the mark. Fasten the crown to the drill chuck. Drill the drywall with a drill bit from the crown and then the hole for the jar.

If there are no crowns at hand, holes on the circumference of the mark are drilled by a 6-8 mm drill, then the central part is removed. The edges are leveled with a file.

Method of supply and installation of cable

The wires are brought to the place of installation of the sockets in the shtrobe, which is made before the installation of podrozetnikov. In hollow partitions, the cable is laid exclusively in a protective corrugation with fastening to the frames of the frame.

Installing and securing the jar

The receptacle must be installed so that the receptacles for the outlet or switch are strictly horizontal. Fixing the receptacle with mortar in a brick, concrete or aerated concrete wall or using clamps in hollow partitions and walls.

Complexities can appear when installing a block of combined podrozetnikov. Even small misalignments in height and slope will lead to the fact that the outlets or switches will be slightly biased towards each other, which looks unattractive.

A rather simple method will help. Prepare an aluminum or steel corner 40 mm longer than the width of the prepared niche by 20 cm. At the edges of the corner, after retreat 2 cm, drill two more holes. By fixing the jigs on the corner, you will be able to insert them evenly and secure them in one level without any distortion. Holes along the edges will help tighten the structure against the wall.

To fix the solution:

Prime a hole in the wall beforehand.
Mix the solution or alabaster.
Apply a layer of mortar along the inner surface so that when the insert is inserted the part protrudes outward, and the rear wall is uniquely supported by the solution.
Insert the cable into the technical hole in the socket. Insert the jar with a force and set it according to the level.
Remove excess solution.

Continue to install the sockets and switches after completely drying the solution, at least after 24 hours.

For fixing in hollow walls:

Remove the mounting plates from the jar.
In the technological hole, get a supply of cable and fix the protective corrugation with a nylon screed. Place the receptacle in the prepared hole.
Insert the plates into the slots on the bottom of the jug and tighten with screws or screws from the kit to the jar.

Before tightening the fasteners, the installation level must be strictly verified in the horizontal plane. Immediately after installing the socket, you can install sockets and switches.

Correct installation of the socket in the concrete wall is done in several stages, the most difficult of which is cutting out a hole in the wall where the device will be mounted. If there is the right tools, experience, or at least a great desire to do everything yourself, then this task will be perfectly possible for any home master.

What tools to prepare

Before installing the outlet, you should prepare the following tools and details - they will be needed in this order:

A pencil, a marker, a coal or something, with which you can draw a markup on the wall.
Ruler. For one device, even an ordinary school one will do, and if a wall outlet is installed, then a large one is preferable.
The level is bubble or laser. At the initial stage it is useful only when installing the socket block.
Drill with a nozzle "crown on concrete." If there is no attachment, then a drill bit for concrete will do. Some cut the wall with a bulgarian. If the wall is particularly strong, then water will not interfere, which will cool the crown.
Chisel and hammer - are needed for small adjustment of the walls of the hole.
Socket - provides a rigid fixing device in the wall.
Putty - gypsum, alabaster or cement mortar.
A putty knife that can be placed in a jar.
The voltage indicator - by and large could be useful in the beginning, but not without it at this stage.
Additional wires are needed if several points are installed.
Knife - you can be the smallest.
Pliers - preferably with pliers.
Rosette - for her, everything is started.
Screwdriver - most often cross, but in some cases, useful and slotted - it all depends on the bolts, which must be twisted.

It is understood that before installing the socket in the wall, wires have already been made to this place and it is known which phase is there and where zero is grounded. If not, then it is necessary to plan large-scale work on piercing the wall (grooves) for wiring in the wall. To do this, have to rent a shtoborez, prepare to drill them with a drill and a puncher or cut a Bulgarian.

The experience of piercing the strobes in concrete with a hammer and chisel is guaranteed to be superfluous - the possession of such knowledge never compensates for the time spent on their acquisition.

Why do markup

If you install one single outlet in a concrete wall, then by and large the layout is not needed. There is not much difference if it is located plus or minus a centimeter. Another thing is if there are other rosettes nearby and the owner of the room has a "perfectionist look". In some people this is developed from nature and if any thing gets out of the picture, it will cause irritation.

As a result - it is better to spend a few extra minutes to calculate and draw on the wall the location of the future outlet. Without fail, this must be done when installing the socket block, which will be located close to each other. The level is useful here, although if the floor is curved in the room, you will have to think about how to make a markup - on the level or parallel to the floor surface.

Correctly made "drawing" of a marking is a horizontal line on which the centers of holes for podrozetnikov are marked. To see if the crown has jumped off the mark, the markings should be slightly larger than its diameter. The most reliable way to calculate the distance between the centers is to put the socket covers together and measure the distance between their centers.

Drilling holes

This is the dustiest and heaviest piece of the whole work, although it all depends on the strength of the concrete.

If a crown is used to drill the podzetetnikov, then the first thing in the center of the marking is drilled an opening for its central axis, after which the crown itself is used.
A little longer this part of the work will be done if there is only a drill with a conventional drill bit for concrete. In this case, you need to drill holes around the circumference of the future podrozetnika, and then knock out the inside of the puncher or chisel.
If the perimeter of the hole for the podzrozetnik is not round, but square, then there is no violation in this - it will still be covered with cement mortar. Proceeding from this consideration, it is possible to make a cut in the wall by the bulgarian, extract the inner part and correct the rest with a perforator or chisel, tangent to the diameter of the future podrozetnik.
In particularly difficult cases, you can combine these methods - first drill holes with a drill, and then work on them with a crown or a Bulgarian.

The result of the work should be a hole in which the juniper that will be installed, slightly "falls through" the surface of the wall.

If several holes are drilled, it is necessary to cut the transitions between them - for the wires.

Mounting of the receptacle

In fact, here you just need to embed the junkets in the wall, but do it so that the installed plastic cup with its upper part is flush with its surface.

A cement or gypsum mortar is prepared and spread with a spatula on the inner surface of the holes obtained. Then a drowette is inserted there (before that, it is necessary not to forget to start the wire) and aligns. At the same time, some quantity of solution will be squeezed out of the wall - it is desirable to remove it not immediately, but after a few minutes, when it starts to solidify. It remains to slightly trim the resulting seam with a spatula and wait for the mixture to completely freeze - depending on the material used, it will take from half an hour to a day.

For more information on installing the jigsaw, see this video:

Wiring connection

The most critical part of the whole work is to connect only two or three wires (depending on the presence of ground), but do it without errors.

The first thing to do is make sure that the wiring is de-energized. One or two minutes spent on switching off circuit breaker and checking the presence of voltage, will make the work much more comfortable and safer.

Stripping the wires. From the ends of the veins should be removed for 1.5-2 cm insulation. Then the bared piece is bent by a ring, and if it is stranded, then it can still be divided in two, so that the ends of the wires get the shape of the letter "V".

To increase the area of contact of the wire with the terminal, the core must be slightly flattened with pliers.

Wiring. There are only two terminals of current-carrying contacts on the socket and the third one for grounding. All of them are clamped with bolts and there is simply nowhere to insert more wires. If wiring is used with the correct color coding, then the yellow-green wire goes to the ground terminal (it "hangs" on the plate with the "mustache" protruding forward), blue to zero and left to the phase (can be any other color). Earthing must necessarily be connected to the contact intended for it, and the phase with zero to the remaining - it does not matter in what order.

Block of sockets. In the first case, the wires from the previous one come to the contacts of one outlet and immediately go to the next one. In the second - the wires from each outlet go to a common "collection point" and there are connected - phase to phase, zero to zero. In this case, it should be taken into account that the PUE prohibits the ground connection by a loop - so you can connect the phase and zero, and the "earth" must necessarily be driven by a star.

End of installation

When the wiring reliably "sits" in the contacts, the inner part of the socket can be inserted into the jar. For this, it is necessary to bend the wires so that they are parallel to the rear wall and push everything inwards.

The inner part of the jaw is fixed with spacer paws - so that they spread out to the sides, tighten the fixing bolts, which are always located in the front part. When the bolt turns clockwise, the foot goes to the side, and vice versa - it simply slides along the body. Sometimes the paws prevent the insertion of the socket into the jar, opening before the time, so they are either tied to the body with a thread or pulled together by a stationery gum.

In addition, the socket can be fixed with bolts, which are screwed into the front part of the podrozetnik.

The last step is screwing the lid. It has centering pins, so fixing it on the outlet incorrectly is problematic enough. When everything is ready, electricity is turned on and the outlet is checked, as well as grounding. The check can be done even before the interior is installed in the jar, but it's already how someone feels the quality of their work.

Step-by-step instructions for installing and connecting the outlet in this video:

As a result - installation household outlet in a concrete wall is not an impossible task even for a layman. If they have to install several pieces, then all the nuances will be accurately stored in memory - you can later act as an instructor.

When building or repairing a house, the question of installing a modern electrical wiring that can withstand the loads of all household appliances will definitely arise. An integral step in this process is the replacement or installation of podrozetnikov - intermediate junction boxes or their blocks, used for the correct and safe connection of individual branches of the power grid.

- Wall Material
- Number of power points
- Sizes of glasses
- Installation of jigs
Video installation instructions

Daisies: what are and how to choose

In general, the receptacle is a plastic round box (glass). It has special design solutions for connection to the outlet mechanism, laying electrical wires from the channeling of the shtrobleniya, installation in the walls. The shape and dimensions of the juniper are selected from the following considerations:

providing comfortable layout and installation;
ensuring reliable and safe placement of power elements of the outlet.

Classification, and with it the order of selection of sub-tablets in each specific case depends on the following criteria:

wall material;
number of power points in a specific installation area;
dimensions of podzrownetniki or their blocks.

Wall Material

Today, junkets are produced by a huge number of enterprises around the world. They have their own design differences, but they also contain some elements that make it possible to distinguish such types of podrozetnikov:

Number of power points

Each of us though sometimes, but lacked outlets in the house. Eliminate it can be the installation of own hands for additional points of the pipeline or the installation of podrozetnik multipoint (block) form factor. In terms of the number of nodal points, the podzoetniki are divided into:

Single;
Block (double, triple, etc).

The latter can be solid (plastic block for a fixed number of points - double, triple, etc.) or typed (assembled from single podzroetnikov due to spacers, in this case between the points the standard interaxial distance is 71 mm.

Sizes of glasses

Installation of podrozetnikov own hands occurs in pre-prepared holes in the wall, which are made with drills of large diameter - crowns. Obviously, it is better to make the choice of the latter, given the actual size of the juniper:

outer (overall) diameter;
overall size in width for block (double, triple, etc.) podrozetnika;
inner diameter of the glass;
overall height of the glass. Affects the depth of drilling and the optimal stock for the wires in the box. If standard glasses of 45 mm height do not satisfy these conditions, it is allowed to use deeper podrozetniki;
diameter of the holes under the wires.

How to install jigs on solid solid walls

As a rule, today mainly use the hidden way of laying wires themselves - strobilenie. This involves making special niches in the wall material under the wires themselves and the mounting boxes. A typical algorithm of actions for such cases consists of three main stages:

Preparation;
Shredding holes and grooves;
Installation activities.

Preparation for installation and marking

The main purpose of the preparatory stage of installation is to apply the correct marking in the places of future installation of podzroetnikov and laying of wires. Here it is important to consider:

the location of the block with respect to the floors (floor, walls);
interaxial distance (for block, for example, double or triple, podrozetnikov);
dimensions of the glass.

As a template, it is better to use the podzoletnik himself, attaching it to the wall with his own hands and applying a contour to the wall.

Making holes in the wall

To make a cavity under a glass or to perform grooving of furrows, a power tool (perforator) with a power of 0.8 to 1.5 kW is used. As a working tool, special core drills, which, depending on the material of the wall, can be diamond, carbide (for panel houses) or carbide (with spraying).

After the tool is prepared, proceed to drilling the holes on the template.

Interesting! It should be noted that the crowns for hard materials have a drill, which reliably centers the nozzle itself, avoiding distortions and inaccuracies of the arrangement.

Drilling continues until the crown does not rest against the wall with its inner side. If you intend to install double socket, then two holes are drilled in steps of 71 mm. After that, it is removed, and the remaining material at the place of drilling is chiseled out by a chisel or a perforator, similar to the process of shtrobleniya.

Itself podrozetnik tries on the hole, the template for which he served, for the presence of a guaranteed margin on the sides and depth under the layer of plaster. After that, they begin to stitch the feed grooves for the wires. In this case, a perforator with a drill or a grinder with a circle around the concrete is used.

Important! At the connection of the shrouds and holes for the chevron (or a group of holes, for example, at a triple point), a groove is made in the crown, so that the wire from the channel can easily enter the bottom of the box.

Installation of jigs

For the box, the installation process begins with its preparation (the holes under the wires break open). The hole for the podrozetnika and groove shtrobleniya clean your hands of dust and then applying a primer.

On the walls of the installation hole, a layer of plaster is applied (gypsum glue, mounting foam), after which the box itself is inserted, pressing against the center. If there are cavities between the box and the wall, then they are covered with adhesive material using a spatula.

Depending on the binder used, it needs to be given time to harden (5 to 30 minutes), then remove the residues using a spatula or trowel.

After the final hardening of the mixture, the spatula aligns the edges, and their grouting is carried out. Also remove excess plaster or foam from the box itself, after which the installation process can be considered complete.

How to install jigs on a hollow wall

A feature of gypsum plasterboard or plastic wall structures is the cavity, which forms behind the main sheet. Therefore, it is impossible to use a gypsum mixture or foam to fix the box - for this purpose, special clamps are present on the box. Given the properties of the material of the wall sheet, for making holes in it, use core drills in wood. They also, like the "concrete" versions, have a centering drill and a glass-like shape, but the cutting edge resembles the saw's teeth. After making the hole, the preparatory and grooving stages can be considered complete. It is also obvious that there is no need for strobing.

A hole is fitted into the hole with pre-prepared holes for the wires. Fixation occurs by means of clips from the inside of the wall.

Interesting! In the inner cavity of the flask there are four ebb with screws: to fix the sockets and two more - for tightening and fixing the clamping plates. To twist them you need to alternately and gradually to eliminate the skewing of the box and possible deformation.

After this, a cable is inserted into the sub-socket and at this point the installation of the point can be considered complete.

Video installation instructions

More clearly, the installation of podrozetnikov is considered in the following video examples:

for concrete (brick, reinforced concrete):

for gypsum cardboard:

Installing outlets in a concrete wall is a fairly responsible procedure that requires special care, accuracy and strict adherence to safety rules. Depending on the method of laying the wiring, sockets and switches are for external and internal installation.

To date, the first type is practically not used, as it implies the laying of wires along the wall surface, which drastically reduces their aesthetic appearance and the level of electrical safety. If, after buying a house, you find that you have an open electrical wiring, then it is recommended to replace it with a closed one.

Preparatory work

Before starting the basic work, you must prepare the required tools and materials, as well as determine where the appliance will be installed. After this, you need to create a drawing of future sites for installing the outlet and laying electrical wiring. It should be noted that in living rooms (hall and bedroom) all outlets must be installed at a height of 30-40 cm from the floor. In the remaining rooms (bath, kitchen, corridor, etc.), the sockets should be mounted in the place and at the height where they will most effectively cope with their task.

When laying the wiring should be guided by the following rules:

the wiring is mounted at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ceiling;
laying is carried out only in vertical and horizontal directions, that is it is forbidden to mount wires diagonally, zigzag, etc .;
distance between the strobes and gas pipe should be more than 35 cm.

To install an outlet in a concrete wall, you will need:

bulgarian or shtroborez to create strobis;
perforator for drilling nests;
a crown for concrete, a winning drill, a nozzle-blade;
screwdriver, nippers, knife;
roulette;
putty knife;
power socket;
subsidiary;
wiring;
gypsum and alabaster mixture;
a deep penetration primer;
pencil.

Using a tape measure and a pencil on the wall, there are places for laying electrical wiring and centers of future openings for sockets. If you plan to install a socket block, then the markup is recommended to begin with the last element. Denoting its center, a horizontal line is drawn along the entire length of the block. After this, using a roulette from the target center for each following retreats 7.1 cm, which is the standard interaxial distance in the podrozetnikov.

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Installation of a socket in a concrete wall

The entire process of installing the outlets can be conditionally divided into several stages:

the creation of a shroud and laying of the wiring;
drilling a hole under the box and installing it;
fixing the sockets to the box.

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Creation and installation of wiring

To create Strobl you can use a cutter, perforator or bulgarian. Shtrobozare is considered the best option, however, due to the high cost of such equipment, it is unprofitable to buy it for domestic needs. Therefore, the main tool is a puncher and a Bulgarian.

For monolithic concrete it is better to use the Bulgarian. According to the marking, two parallel lines are made, the width between which should be equal to the required width of the shtroba. Then, between the notches, a groove is punched out with a perforator or a hammer and a chisel.

The depth of the grooves depends on the thickness electrical cable, but should be at least 3 cm without taking it into account.

For example, if a cable with a cross section of 1 cm is used, then minimum depth Shtroby under it should be 4 cm.

After the shtroby are ready, you can proceed to laying the cable. In this case, it can be mounted directly into grooves or use special tubes. In the second case, the wiring will be better protected from external factors.

The conductors are fixed in the groove with the aid of an alabaster solution, which is applied in steps of 20-25 cm. After laying the cable, the stump is filled with gypsum mortar.

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Drilling the hole under the box and installing it

Drilling a hole under the box is as follows:

Using a perforator with a drill 8 mm in diameter, a hole is made in the wall at the center of the future outlet to a depth of 5-6 cm. After this, a crown is inserted in place of the concrete with a diameter of 6.8-7.0 cm, which is marked by the boundaries of the hole.
On the perimeter of the resulting contour with the help of a perforator and a drill holes are made (about 11-13 pieces). This will somewhat facilitate and accelerate the process of removing excess concrete from the landing site for the juniper.
The perforator with the drill bit is drilled to the required depth, after which the remaining concrete is removed from the hole by the scraper blade.

After the hole is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the juniper. First of all, it is necessary to remove the plugs in the places through which the supply cable will be introduced. Then the box is applied to the prepared hole and the correctness of its installation is checked. At the same time, nothing should interfere with the spruce box, that is, it should not stick out, stick out or be tilted in any direction.

To securely fix the box in a concrete wall with your own hands, you should perform some actions. First, the hole must be cleaned of dust and treated with a deep penetration primer. After the primer dries, a plaster mixture or a conventional alabaster is applied to the hole. Then the wiring is pushed into the sub-socket, after which it is pressed into the solution. It is recommended to remove excess gypsum mixture after setting it.

After the solution has finally solidified and the jar is securely fixed, you can proceed to the finishing works around the box. First, the walls are primed, and then large chips and holes are covered with putty and leveled. After drying the putty, the walls are plastered to achieve a flat surface around the installed box.