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Serial and parallel connection of sockets: by a loop and a star. How to carry out the socket from the socket: the instruction. Wiring in the apartment

It is very difficult to meet electrical wiring, which is in an apartment without outlets. It is impossible to connect electrical appliances without a high-quality outlet in the apartment.

In the modern world, the current load is greatly increased. It is important to correctly connect the sockets in parallel. This is one way to connect the outlets.

The parallel connection of the outlets is the safest. The type of outlet is of great importance. To date, more often there are rosettes with engraver. It is able to automatically restore contact. Parallel connection of outlets can be made independently.

First of all, you need to remember that when connecting the necessary wires directly to the contacts, be sure to fold the end of the wire. This must be done in the form of a ring, in order to create a sufficient area for contact.

This will serve as a kind of guarantee for the correct connection of electric consumers of a powerful type. a parallel connection of outlets is very often used in everyday life.

It happens that there is not enough one functional outlet in the room, and then a decision is made to install another one, which will help discharge the load on the first one. For this case, a parallel connection is ideal. Do not pull the new wires from the existing electric unit. Everything can be done much easier.

Parallel connection of outlets should be carried out very carefully. In this case there are some features. First of all, the ends of the new wire are connected in parallel, hence the name. The connection occurs to the wires that approach the first outlet.

This is very important nuance. To make it easier for you to understand, we will explain the entire connection mechanism in more detail. You need to connect "Phase" to "phase", and in turn, "Zero" - to "zero". We recommend that you connect the phase wire to the socket of the socket, which is located on the right.

In the case of parallel connection of outlets it is very important to observe safety precautions. Do not lose sight of the small nuances. Take into account that during the connection of the parallel socket, it is important to pay attention to the material of the wires.

It is necessary that the material of all used dips be identical. This is a very important point. It is not possible to connect wires made of copper with aluminum wires. In the event that the connection of wires from different materials can not be avoided, it is advisable to carry out their luring.

Parallel connection of two outlets

Parallel connection of two sockets is used in the event that there are electrical outlets of the same group. Parallel connection of two outlets can be carried out in several ways. You can connect the wires in parallel.

Connect the wires in the junction boxes. You can also go the other way and connect the sockets using the shelf.

The second option is to choose if you want to connect the sockets that are very close to each other. Before installing the sockets, perform several necessary operations. First, install sub-grid type boxes and route the wire to the distribution panel.

Parallel and series connection of outlets

Connect the sockets in parallel or in series. Parallel and series connection of outlets should be carried out in different cases. Electricians do not recommend a series connection of outlets.

But this is a controversial issue. To begin with, we must understand what the difference between the two methods is. It should start with the fact that all the outlets that are in the same group have the same connection scheme. It is called parallel.

The question is that a parallel connection can be performed by several different ways. You can connect the sockets by tapping them in boxes, including twisting, soldering and clamping, or you can connect them to the terminals, but not by acting on the boxes.

The latter method is called a loopback connection

That it was easier for you to decide which connection of outlets to choose - parallel, or still consistent, we propose to make a detailed comparison of these two methods. As for the connection by the loop, this method can help to save on the material. Thus, you will have to do less work and spend less resources.

But in this case there is a risk, because today it is not allowed to break the PE conductor. This is spelled out in generally accepted norms.

These rules can be circumvented, only if you are engaged in replacing the wiring in your own apartment or house. You do not need to hand over the listed objects in operation, and, consequently, and no one will check them. Which way to choose depends only on you, but we do not recommend that you once again risk your safety and the safety of your loved ones.

You can make a connection with a loop and at the same time avoid violation of safety rules. To do this, you only need to leave unbroken wires of current-carrying type, namely phase and neutral wires. This will allow you to reduce the load on the main terminals of the first outlet.

If you implement the stated order correctly, this will save the PE guide whole, and you thus do not violate the generally accepted security rules.

And also you can see the video connection socket and switch

Any work related to the design and installation of electricity, require professional solutions to the issue. And the installation of the sockets is no exception. Power cords are allowed to conduct an internal flap, using one of two ways of installation. What options for the connection can be applied, how to perform parallel and serial connection of outlets, consider in the article.

Today the connection of the sockets is carried out in two ways: in the first one a separate line of wiring is arranged for each point, in the second one several points are connected to one source at once.

The choice of the method depends on the type of sockets: whether single-phase sockets equipped with or without ground are used, or three-phase devices are installed to power devices that operate with a 380 V voltage network.

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Sockets for powerful consumers, for example, electric ovens or boilers, are connected by a separate line. If possible, a single piece of cable is used for installation, devoid of any connections.

If it is necessary to connect each such consumer, the feed point must withstand a rated current of 16A. For the current with the same index, the protective circuit-breaker at the input is also calculated.

Sockets with separate lines are the only correct option for servicing powerful household appliances such as a washing machine or an electric stove

Daisy chain is selected if you need to supply electrical outlets of the same group. These groups are formed in accordance with the arrangement of the home appliances.

The method involves connecting all the elements to the common supply line of the wiring.

To reduce the "no" risk of incapacitating several points at once, the master recommends that no more than two or three outlets are included in one system. This moment is clearly spelled out in SP 31-110-2003: it is possible to connect up to three additional electric receivers with a loop.

An essential "minus" of such a scheme is that if one of the wires is accidentally damaged at the contact point, all the following elements cease to work

The only condition is that the total current load does not exceed twice the value of the working rated current of the first (head) electrical receiver.

But, under any scenario, the chain created in this way is designed for a load, the total value of which does not exceed 16A. If the operating conditions are not observed, the probability of creating emergency situations is high.

When connecting the sockets it is not necessary to use a pure wiring type. With a competent approach, they can be combined, for example, to bring the supply cable to junction box. And after it send one cable in the form of a loop, the other is to lead up separately to the point of washing of the powerful equipment in the house.

The number of feed lines laid from the switchboard depends on how many routes the wiring is supposed to lay.

To connect an electric fireplace with a capacity of 2 kW it is necessary to provide a separate independent outlet, the iron can be safely powered from points connected in a daisy chain

Regardless of the type of method selected, the wiring can be performed in one of two ways:

open - involves the laying of wires on the wall surface;
closed - involves hollowing out channels for laying power lines in concrete and brick walls, sampling the channel in the wood for laying the cable, tightened in the corrugated tube.

The open version is more convenient and easier not only for installation, but also for maintenance and monitoring. But with respect to the aesthetic aspect, an open wire is not always appropriate. And besides, the open method of installation "eats up" part of the useful area: it is impossible to hang a shelf from the top of the cable or to push furniture close to the wall.

With an open mounting method, cable conduits are used to protect the PE conductor from mechanical damage and make it more presentable, or plastic skirting boards

The internal space of most cable channels has partitions, between which it is convenient to place wires. Track monitoring is carried out through the upper removable part.

Closed wiring option is convenient in that it eliminates the possibility of accidental damage to the cable, making it invisible to others.

In order to minimize the need for "cracking" the walls to create the shtrobl, the closed wiring is performed at the stage of construction or repair work until the finish

But the "invisibility" of closed wiring can play a cruel joke when trying to "hammer a nail." Therefore, there is an unspoken rule: the wires are routed strictly vertically or horizontally with respect to the outlets.

Daisy-chain installation features

As already noted, the daisy-chain method is used to connect outlets that are in the same group, which feed low-power devices, such as a computer, audio equipment ...

This type of connection is more economical and technically easier. After all, for its implementation, there is no need to lay many cables and use additional protection. But it is worth noting that each additional point of the created chain will make it more vulnerable.

For example, we know that the rated current per one outlet should not exceed 16A. If you connect such a load to one point, then nothing terrible will happen. But if you include such a load at least 2-3 outlets of one line, its total readings will increase, as a result - the supply cable can not stand.

The key condition of the daisy chain connection is that the cross section of the jumper wires will correspond to the conductors of the main supply line

According to the PUE with a daisy-chain connection it is not allowed to break the PE conductor of the protective ground wire. In any case, its contour must remain inseparable.

To reduce the material costs when installing the PE conductor to the outlets helps the application of one of the technical solutions:

Using special connectors

This type of connection is chosen if necessary to connect the sockets, which are located almost closely to each other.

In the case of a daisy-chained connection, the main contact wire, which is fed from the power shield, enters the landing site of the sub-socket. From it, it feeds the first outlet, from which through its contacts the power goes to the second outlet, from the second - to the third.

All cores of the conductor: blue for zero "zero", red-brown for "phase" and yellow-green for "grounding" - are connected in parallel

When installing with a cable, the incoming and outgoing cables are connected directly to the contact part of the device. For this reason, the masters recommend the use of models equipped with a flat spring contact. In extreme cases, suitable specimens, the contacts of which are made in the form of a bolted plate. At all, devices for which the role of a contact is performed by an ordinary bolt are not suitable for this purpose.

One of the mandatory operational requirements when connecting the sockets with a loop is the need to reduce the transient resistance in the circuit between the sockets of the sockets and the contacts of the electrical plug.

To achieve the desired effect, terminals are attached to shapes that allow the area of the contacts to be increased, as well as the force of their compression. Today, the Scotchlok type connectors are often used for mounting protective zero. A clip connector of this type is equipped with plug contacts.

To create a branch, the clip connector is mounted inside the installation box, placing between the bottom of the device and the outlet

To use a clip-on connector, you must select products that have additional space to accommodate it.

Through the contact of the first socket, the phase lead of the supply cable and the PE conductor of the loop coming to the second outlet are fed. On the second contact - the zero wires of the supply cable and the cable to the second outlet. The same principle is used to connect to a third and subsequent outlet, if its presence provided for a power wiring diagram.

According to the SAE clause 1.7.144 for connection of the open conductive part of the device to the zero or ground conductor, it is necessary to branch into the cavities of the wiring enclosures of the electro-adjusting products intended for this purpose. These include the rosette.

The main task when connecting outlets equipped with grounding is to ensure a reliable connection of the elements throughout the entire line. After all, if the grounding pin for any reason burns in the main power socket, all the other participants in the circuit will lose a protective zero. Therefore, if the tapping of the earthing conductor is necessary, the most reliable type of joints is used - crimping.

To carry out the crimping, the cleaned ends of the wires are injected into the cavity of a special metal sleeve and crimped by means of a hand press clamp

The method assumes, apart from the usual twisting of the wires, additional insulation and pressing of their ends by means of a sleeve. This ensures uninterrupted contact of the circuit elements and its high mechanical strength.

Installing an additional junction box

This method involves the installation, next to the outlet, of the sockets connected with the shield of the branch box or the connecting block. At the same time, the cable branches into the junction box on the site before it is brought to the junket.

The use of an additional tap-off box for PE conductors also allows the connection of the grounding contacts in parallel when the sockets are routed by a loop

Connections inside the junction box, leading to each outlet, are most often performed by welding. It is recommended that the insulated ends of all conductors be laid in distribution boxes so that they do not intersect and do not touch each other.

Planning further on from the junction box to make new connections, at the stage of installation it is worth leaving a 15-20 cm

In both cases, when connecting wires to the phase and ground wires, a loop is formed, and from PE conductor - a branch. Therefore, when tapping the sockets it is important to observe the polarity of the contacts: from the terminal with zero conductor, take away zero. Likewise, the phase conductor is also fed.

Taking into account the number of working electrical appliances, the number of outlets in a room can be up to 10 pieces. Use of tees and extension cords is not always convenient, and besides it is dangerous. In this case, solve the problem, installing instead of a single outlet socket outlets.

The design of the outlet block, which includes up to four separate elements, is connected in the same way as a single socket.

The main difference between an overhead frame and a socket is that each element in it is assembled into a serial loop from one to the other

When connecting blocks, conductors' conductors are connected by any of the described methods. Bared areas are insulated with a heat shrinkable tube or wrapped with an insulating tape.

Specificity of parallel connection

The peculiarity of the parallel connection scheme of sockets, otherwise called a "star", consists in a separate connection to the flap of each outlet. The third well-founded name is "unmaintainable", because assumes the possibility of abandoning the junction box. The method is actively practiced in the countries of Europe, and we are used to provide a separate line of powerful consumers most often in combination with the loop technology.

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Plus "stars" in providing the maximum degree of security. A significant advantage is the ability to manage individually large energy consumers, which is a priority for power distribution for the "Smart Home", for example. The minus scheme is covered in the impressive labor costs of the electrician and in the almost triple-increased cable consumption.

A parallel circuit is also used to connect power three-phase sockets that will power powerful electrical appliances. At the same time, the cross-section of the conductors feeding such consumers must be at least 2.5 square meters. mm.

For greater reliability, they should have a small margin for current. This will compensate for the actual deviation from the manufacturer's specified diameter from their nominal value, which often "sin" the products presented on the market today. In addition, such a solution will ensure the ability of the equipment to operate in an overload mode.

This method of installation is advantageous in that the performance of each individual point does not affect the functioning of the other participants in the chain. For household appliances, this scheme is considered the most stable and safe.

The parallel connection method of the outlets ensures the independence of each power point: no matter how many outlets are present in the circuit, the voltage will remain uniform

Connection of a three-phase socket equipped with grounding is carried out by means of separate four-wire wiring. A cable that includes three phases, ground and zero, goes directly from the shield.

The purpose of the wire is most easily determined by the color of the insulation:

"Phase" - wires with a white tint;
"Zero" - the insulation is colored blue;
"Grounding" is a braid of yellow-green color.

Grounding is essentially a protective zero. In order for it to remain so, it is necessary to ensure its reliable and constant connection throughout the entire line.

To connect the wires and connect to the outlet, shorten their ends first. The use of side cutters will allow you to perform the work as accurately as possible. The end of each wire is 15-20 mm peeled from external insulation with a sharp knife.

The wires are connected in such a sequence:

Remove the plastic protective cover from the sockets.
Screw the screws for 5-6 mm. The same manipulations are made with the screw and on the ground terminal.
The stripped ends of the wires are alternately put into the box, taking into account the position of the input terminals and placed in the appropriate sockets.
Sockets with laid wires tightly tighten the screws.
The dashboard with the connected wires is inserted into the wall niche and fixed with side clamps.

To obtain a more reliable assembly, some masters of bare ends of the veins are folded in the form of a loop or ring so that their diameter matches the size of the legs of the screws. After this, each screw is alternately unscrewed, wrapped around its base with a wire ring and tightened tightly.

The circuit is used not only to power separate outlets, but also to connect units that include two or more points

When you connect the outlets, all the advantages of the circuit are retained. The only thing is that the connection process takes a little more time and effort.

Increased costs are not an argument for those for whom security is a priority. If you look at the situation more globally, sometimes it is sometimes better to invest more money and effort by equipping an independent power line for the outlet. Then you do not have to think every time whether you can use a point to connect an electrical appliance.

Video instructions for electrical installation

Video guide to the use of the loop method:

Video: one of the safest options for connecting outlets:

Provided that the amount of electricity consumed for household needs is increasing every year, and therefore the requirements for reliability of outlets will certainly increase, a parallel wiring scheme should still be preferred. Especially when it comes to serious energy consumers. For the supply of fixtures, electric alarms and similar devices, the option of connecting with a loop is suitable.

Many people are faced with the need to connect an electrical outlet. Someone just needs an additional outlet at home or at the dacha, someone wants to conduct electricity in a barn or garage. One way or another, the question arises: how is this done? I hasten to assure you that it is very simple! In this short article, we will tell you how to connect the power outlet with your own hands correctly.

How to connect an outlet: theory

Important! Before proceeding with the installation of the outlets or any other electrical installation work, turn off the switch on the panel or counter (unscrew the plug) and make sure that the wiring is not live.

To connect the power outlet to the mains, just connect two wires: zero and phase. If there is grounding in your wiring, do not neglect it, - connecting three wires is not much more difficult than connecting two. Since the current is variable, it does not matter which wire on which side of the shoe you connect.

But reliable contact and the impossibility of short-circuiting are very important! Therefore, clean the wire exactly as far as it goes into the terminal. If you have cleaned too much, cut the excess with wire cutters.

If you cleaned properly, the bare wire should not stick out of the terminal.

Tighten the clamping screw properly, and after that make sure that the wire is kept in the terminal well. The connection must be mechanically reliable - the wire should not fall out of the terminal even when it is slightly twitching.

Options for connecting the outlet.

With the connection theory, the sockets were sorted out: everything looks very simple, and it inspires confidence. But this confidence is immediately split into a simple practical question. Where do we connect the two wires that we connected to the sockets of the socket? In which place to connect, in fact, to the power grid?

There are several options. The best of all is the electric shield with automatic weapons.

If you do not have it or draw a wire to it, it is not advisable, then it is best to connect the outlet to the junction box, although it is not so easy to understand.

If the box is also not an option, then the only thing left is to join ... another outlet! In principle, it looks like this:

In some outlet models, the terminals are arranged in such a way that two wires are easily connected to them. This is made specifically to ensure that the outlet is conveniently connected with a cable.

Important! By plugging the sockets in series to each other, remember: this is almost the same as inserting an extension cord into the outlet. The fact that you now have two sockets instead of one does not mean that you can now include two heaters in them at the same time! After all, all the load will fall on the wire that was connected to the first outlet. If it is not designed for a large load, this can lead to trouble.

Installing the outlet with your own hands

So, let's assume that the cable you connected and brought to the place where the new outlet will be installed. What's next? In principle, sockets are of two types: recessed and overhead.

Overhead sockets are easy to install. The socket is screwed to the wall with two screws.

The wires are connected to it, and the cover is screwed on top with one or two screws.

A little more complicated is the case with the built-in socket. It is installed in special plastic podrozetniki, which are heated to the wall.

Grooves for the cheeks are drilled with a crown.

The socket is fixed in the receptacle with the help of locks.

It remains to screw the plastic cover.

And the installation is finished. Before use, check that the outlet is working with a voltmeter or a light bulb. Do not forget to also make sure that the outlet is securely fixed and will not fall out of the wall when trying to pull a plug from it.

Now you know how to plug in the socket in your home or in the country. This work is not difficult, and it will not take you much time and effort. You can always connect the outlet yourself in any convenient place; for example, near a computer desk or in a garage. In addition, you can save on the services of an electrician.

Connecting the outlet is a responsible business, requiring the knowledge of the rules and the nuances of wiring. The load on these power installation nodes is now rapidly increasing, the current consumption reaches at times tens of amperes. The slightest violation of rules results in overheating of the device and melting of contacts, and serious flaws "will pave the way" to catastrophic consequences. Not having found out, how to connect the socket, it is better not to start any actions with electroconducting at all. But at home craftsmen, who studied the issue, there will be no difficulties with the installation, or with the subsequent safe operation.

Landmarks for choosing the way to connect the outlet

Electricians thoroughly know all the nuances of connecting outlets. For them, this is a standard work operation, which you have to perform daily. Home masters, ignorant in the intricacies of the electrical network, only have to learn the stages of connection. Let's start by examining the factors that influence the choice of connection scheme.

Type of outlet and its influence on the connection diagram

Let us not with masochism, unjustified probability of practice, "digging" in all types of outlets on the planet. Consider three common types, actively used in the domestic space for persistent recommendations GOST 7396.1-89. These are wiring devices:

Standard C 1a - sockets, not equipped with grounding contacts. They are designed to work on a network segment with DC values up to 10A, variable analog up to 16A. Connect to them can be extremely low-power units that do not require grounding protection. Although the 250 V load they must keep;
Standard C 2a - sockets with side grounding devices. Therefore, in their mechanism there is an internal terminal for supplying the PE wire to it. The operating mode is similar, but unlike predecessors they can power powerful consumers of energy. Used to connect washing machines, water heaters, electric stoves, pumps and other units, whose metal casing can encourage the owner of a breakdown by electro-clogging;
Standard C 3a - sockets equipped with a pin-to-ground contact. The difference with the previous type is only in the configuration and location of the grounding devices.

No special wisdom was found: the whole difference in the elementary presence or in the simplest absence of contacts for. Those. if you plan to install an additional outlet for an electric kettle, you can completely manage the device C1a, and for powerful household electric machines, you should select a socket with grounding according to the size of the plug of the connected equipment.

The presence of a ground terminal in the design of the operating mechanism of the outlet affects the selection of the cable:

To connect an electrical installation point without grounding, a cable with two cores is needed. Connect to the mechanism only the zero and phase wires;
To connect to a household electrical outlet with a grounding will require a three-core cable - having a core for connection to the phase, ground and zero.

Determine with the cable you need not only by the number of functional cores, but also by size. Moreover, both the outlet and the protective apparatus for the constructed area of electrical wiring should be selected according to the calculations of the forthcoming load. In general, buying an electrical installation product that receives and transmits less than 16 Amp variables is impractical. It is better to buy immediately "with a margin" than later to change to a more powerful device.

Dependence of the installation method on the type of posting

An important factor that influences the choice of both the outlet itself and the way it is mounted is the type of wiring: open or closed. Those. the performer should find out: the top of the walls is reinforced with cable, switches and power points or the entire economy is hidden in the penalty.

Distinctions in the scheme of installation and connection of the socket to the open or to the closed mains:

In the first, least time-consuming case, the wizard expects to fix the wire segment more often on a wooden wall. Then fastening of the dielectric plate-podrozetnika, on which it will be necessary to fix the working organ of the socket. Then a decorative protective case is put on the device. If an open line is laid or will be laid using, then before the production of the listed operations on the chosen route it will be necessary to pre-lay it.
In the second, zubodrobitelnom option will have to sever the walls, drill a hole for one or a group of outlets. After that, lay a piece of wire in the hole formed by the perforator. After the wiring is complete, plasters and holes must be plastered. So it's best to improve the concealed wiring before finishing.

In wooden suburban buildings, electrical wiring is traditionally laid open way. And in the baths, according to the harsh instructions of the UE without cable channels at all. So, wishing to find out how to install a socket, before work it will be necessary to study the technology of attaching these protective boxes.

Train or star: what to choose?

Slightly above, we talked about the cable is not without reason. The socket is something you need to connect to the power, and not just fix it on the wall. To accomplish this, there are only two options at the disposal of an independent electrician:

Connection to the junction box with the standard formation of the "star" scheme, according to which independent lines of force are created;
Connection to the nearest existing outlet, with the formation of a "loop" scheme, according to which the wiring devices are located on one power line "in a row".

"String" additional outlets for one power beam of the "star" scheme can be done if the cross section of the cable by which the planned power point is connected to the circuit allows.

Example. The original socket for 25A is connected to the junction box with a cable with a cross-sectional area of 2.5 mm². This means that it will be able to perform the function of a daisy-chain electric power source for a 16 A socket, supplied with a wire with a cross-section of 1.5 mm².

What is more preferable from these schemes, will prompt future expenses. Of course, it is better to pull the additional line to where closer. It's cheaper, after all. However, there are situations with the unshakable dictates of the PUE: installation of the outlet for a powerful representative of household appliances. For pumps, washing units, boilers, "trail" is not suitable. Only the "star", i.e. the source of its food is worthy to become only a junction box.

Attention to installation height

Strict rules for fixing the sockets in height from the floor line are not found either in the domestic code of electrical laws and norms of the PUE, nor in the equivalent normative directories of Europe. The main criteria are comfort, combined with operational safety, and cable consumption for connection.

The most convenient height is 30 cm from the plane on which we move. However, for a curious baby and for animals, this arrangement will be dangerous if there are no protective curtains on the body of the device. By the way, sockets with curtains are highly recommended for the organization of electric circuits in actively moistened rooms.

Nothing and no one puts the owner to prefer to install a 60 cm outlet from the floor with a variety of variations. You can directly above the baseboard or under the ceiling, if in that area on the brackets "hangs" TV. The main thing from the interface line of the wall with the top overlapping retreat is laid by the rules of 15 or more cm down and bypass the gas equipment in half a meter. And also between the outline of the window opening and the branch of the electrical wiring, together with all attached devices, there must be at least 10 protectors from overcooling, street dust and overheating.

Steps of connecting the outlet in the bath

Consider the case of connecting an escutcheon with a grounding to the nearest companion. We follow the rules for the formation of the "train". Those wishing to bring the cable to the terminal box will need to make separate branches with the aid of clip-on terminals or by twisting stripped wires with subsequent welding.

All electrical wiring operations are performed when the circuit is disconnected from the power supply. It is recommended after switching off the automaton in the shield immediately check and periodically monitor the presence of voltage in the network with a multimeter.

Step # 1 - preparation for the upcoming operations

Prepare to work will need a power source and a directly connected object. From the original socket, it is necessary to remove the upper part of the housing so that it is possible to connect the cable. If the operating mechanism separates from the sub-socket, it is necessary to unscrew the fixing screws and pull out the terminal block with the terminals.

In the family of outlets for outdoor wiring are listed two varieties:

devices with a mechanism detached from the plate-chevron;
devices with a mechanism, structurally combined with an overlaid podrozetnikom.

The analysis of the details is subject to both varieties. With the first you need to remove the body and detach the body, with the second only the body.

Step # 2 - connect the cable to the power source

First, we will perform an original fitting with a marker or a felt-tip pen in hand. We will take into account that:

Inside the box, all three wires (ground, phase, zero) must lie separately. This means that the total insulation covered by the flexible tube by all three conductors must be removed from them;
Wires should be placed freely with some margin for the possibility of conducting other electrical work with them. In socket outlets, it is recommended to stock up to 20 cm. Such a supply of wire runs the risk of not getting under the cover of the overhead outlet. Electricians are advised to cut the cable of open wiring strictly in size. Here fitting and spend in order to find out how much you can leave, and how much to cut.
If the section of the chain is laid without a protective box, the total insulation of the cable must be brought into the source housing, to which we are connected, at least 0.5 cm;
To form an impeccable contact, all three wires of the cable to be connected must be freed from "personal" insulation by 0.7-1.0 cm. It should not be forgotten that these bare sections of the conductors will be under the terminal screws, and not freely lie under the lid;
Arrange the wires in the socket so that their peeled ends do not touch each other.

Try on how to get in the assembled state. We noted how much insulation we remove from the cable and from each of the cores. The general shell can be cut off without unnecessary cuttings with an assembly or clerical knife, having previously marked the same on the insulating tube line of cut. Isolation from the veins should be carefully cut, as if sharpening a pencil. Do not cut the same way as a common insulation shell. You can damage the conductor.

To ensure optimum contact, cut the exposed wire segments with rings. They need to be gently squashed with a hammer, so that the contacting area will increase noticeably, and we will get rid of overheating at the connection points. Under the previously weakened terminal screws, we set the rings according to the color marking. Wire PE yellow-green colors are connected to the central contact. The definition of a phase with zero is of no fundamental importance, since Both conductors are designed to create lines of force. However, it is desirable to adhere to the traditional marking scale, because one must fix it someday.

We screw the terminal screws with effort, but without fanaticism. Otherwise, bare wires are broken off, especially if they are aluminum. Fastening is checked for durability, assiduously twitching for the connected wire. Having convinced of reliability, we collect the disassembled power source and we are directed to a place of installation of a new outlet.

Step # 3 - directly connect a new outlet

The principles of preparation of wires are similar, similar to the algorithm of work. Only the start of the work will not be fitting, but the attachment of the juniper:

The detached platform or the platform (combined with the working mechanism) (depending on the design of the purchased device) is applied to the wall to be installed, in order to choose the optimal position for installation;
With a pencil, note the outline of the podzoletnik and the points of its attachment to the wall, then check the accuracy of the horizontal level. Screw the socket of the overhead socket to the wooden wall can be done right after aligning the horizontality and verticality of the drawn lines. The fixing is done through the holes on the installation platform with wood screws. To fix the overhead outlet on a concrete or brick surface, first drill the holes for the dowels;
To the fixed podrozetniku connect the terminal block with the terminals, if it was not combined;
By analogy with the method described above, we perform another fitting;
Next, we form rings, turn them into terminal screws and screw them tightly;
Convincingly we pull the wires near the created contacts;
Nothing fell off? Then with a quiet soul, we put on and fasten the cover of the case with a complete screw.

That's the whole order of the work. It's not difficult, is it?

For those who want to know how to make a whole plume of outlets at the same time, the described algorithm will also be very useful. Efforts to invest them will have more, it is necessary to tinker for a little longer, but the actions will be exactly the same. They will be repeated periodically. The number of technological "turns" in the construction of the loop is equal to the number of electrical installation points.

There are various ways and devices to supply two or more appliances from one outlet, for example, tees and power filters. If it becomes clear that a certain place will always include several devices, it is much more convenient and practical to make the connection of the outlet from the outlet. The truth here is that we must take into account a number of nuances that will affect their normal and prolonged work.

Pros and cons of this method of connection

The advantage is one and it's always on the look-easy to use, because you do not have to bother with the shifts, stumble on the wires, or worry that the tee will loosen the sockets and fall out of it.

In order to fully appreciate the possible shortcomings, you need to disassemble the device and see what kind of wire is connected to it - most often this is a 1.5 or 2.5 square millimeter wiring. Such a cable will easily withstand the connection of one household device with a power of about 2 kW and with a little stretch a couple of such devices. Saves rosettes and wires that several powerful devices in one of them are connected quite infrequently - basically this one device is for 1-2 kW and a few weaker.

Before you draw an outlet or several from an existing one, be sure to take into account that each subsequent one is a wire connection, which is an additional resistance to the electric current. Even if you connect one powerful device, but in the last outlet, that is the probability of heating the previous contacts. The nature of the electric current is such that it has a vibrating effect on the wiring, so that contacts with time inevitably weaken. According to the rules, at the enterprises all electrical contacts must undergo an annual inspection and tightening of bolted connections.

On the other hand, in living rooms, the most powerful device is usually an electric heater - if it is not artisanal, with unknown as made contacts, then two consecutive rosettes and their wiring can withstand it freely.

The third question is the kitchen - that's where the most powerful devices are usually collected, in terms of electricity consumption: dishwasher, microwave oven, electric oven, oven, electric kettle, toaster and others that "eat" from 1.5 kW. "Hanging" them on one wire is strictly not recommended, except that it will be the weakest of them, for example, a microwave oven paired with a kettle or a toaster.

Choice of wiring method

All the ways to conduct a socket outlet are to the way they are fixed - inside the wall, outside or from the inside of the "parent" point of the wire will be displayed outside. All other working moments are solved in all cases in the same way:

The thickness of the wires. Here everything is simple - they should not be thinner than those that fit the "main" outlet. Otherwise, when you connect a sufficiently powerful consumer to the "daughter" outlet, the contacts will warm up - sooner or later the insulation of the wires, the plastic cover or both will be melted.
Design. From the point of view of the functional, there are no special restrictions - they will arrange only "just to work", while others will choose "to be beautiful and to fit together with each other and with wallpaper"
The procedure for connecting contacts. On household devices, there may be two or three. If two, then this is the phase and zero - which wire to connect does not matter, the main thing is that they are "planted" on different contacts. When three wires are used, it is phase zero and grounding - its socket contact usually sticks out from the device body when you remove the cover from it. On the contact, you need to find the fixing bolt and screw the grounding wire there.
Grounding. It all depends on its availability - if it is in the first outlet, it is strongly recommended to conduct the ground wire and the following points. At the same time it is necessary to take into account the requirements of the PUE - the cable should be as complete as possible with separate leads to each point.

brown wire - phase, blue - zero, yellow-green - ground

In the last question there is one important nuance - initially the ground wire was connected directly to the grounding contacts, but it can not be connected in the same way as the phase and neutral wires - from contact to contact. This is forbidden, since in the case of burn-out of the core, all subsequent devices will remain unprotected. How to make the correct connection is shown in the figure - the main wire is unscrewed from the contact and twisted on it.

A separate vein goes to the first point and one more - "trunk" - to all the others. It directly connects to the last point, and the previous ones, like the main one, are "hung up" on it using separate wires.

All further actions depend on the method of installation.

Outdoor wiring

In its pure form found in wooden houses or fans of design style "retro."

wiring in wooden house in copper pipes

In the first case, its application is due to stringent fire safety requirements, which do not allow the laying of theoretically flammable objects in wooden walls. Additional complications here can be metal pipes, in which wires are often wound to avoid even theoretically possible contact with the wall surface. This means that connecting the outlet from another outlet in this case means almost 100% guarantee of the need for additional locksmith work.

If the wiring is simply made in the style of "retro", then adding from one outlet another - means to break the entire picture. The whole point of this style is that the wires are carefully fed from the junction box to the outlet. Often they are twisted by a spiral and generally look like an openwork weave hanging in the air. In order not to risk spoiling the entire design, it's easier, more beautiful and more reliable to spend a little more cable, but to make a separate outlet from the junction box.

If you really need two sockets and for some reason from the junction box to stretch the wire does not work, that is another way out of this situation. It consists in the location of a new outlet next to the old one - on one dielectric stand. If they have the same design, then it will already be a block of outlets made-wires can be hidden behind their covers and the overall picture will not suffer.

Hidden Posting

It is called so because it is not visible, since it is hidden inside the wall, for which even during installation in the concrete, the grooves were cut into which the wires were laid. Then these grooves (properly they are called "shtroby") are sealed with plaster or cement mortar, after which the wall is painted, wallpaper is glued on it or another finish is made.

As a result - in order to extend the wire from the already existing socket to the next one, it is first of all necessary to imagine whether it is possible to cut a groove in the wall, drill a hole under the jar and only then make the connection.

If a new point is not supposed to be connected to powerful loads, then this method - how to connect a socket from an existing one - is the most preferable, because the labor costs will be much less than with full installation from the junction box. If you do not want to damage the wallpaper too much, then this decision becomes almost the only possible one.

If the new point does not need to be located at a distance from the old one, assembly of the socket block will again help. Next to the first one, holes are cut for them in the wall and the wire hides inside them. When such a connection scheme is used for hidden wiring, then, with due care, all the trim remains untouched. The size of the socket cover is larger than the diameter of the receptacle, so even taking into account cutting out the larger hole (which is necessary for its installation), the decorative cover closes all traces of cutting the wall.

Combined Posting

The results of this method include the connection of one or more other sockets, with a certain coolness are professional electricians, especially if some shortcomings were committed during the installation. But for a number of reasons, this is the way home craftsmen often come in, if one outlet has to be connected to one more - an additional outlet, and the wall can not be drilled ...

Such situations happen very often, for example, in rented apartments - the owners do not give permission for redevelopment, and in some houses, the sockets are made only on one, at most two, the walls of four and not the fact that they are located in the right places.

Mounting procedure

The general principle by which the new points are correctly connected in a combined way is as follows:

Trite, but necessary - in the apartment the electricity is turned off (or only the socket itself is de-energized).
From the "parent" outlet the lid is removed, it is estimated how much it covers the hole for the jar.
Weakening the antennae, which keeps the inner part of the socket in the socket, it is extracted so that there is free access to the contacts.
Connect wires that will go to a new outlet.
Before inserting the inner part of the socket into place, it is necessary to check whether its limiter will not force the wire (this is usually a steel rectangular plate protruding beyond the perimeter of the perimeter). If this is the case, then it is necessary to accurately chop off a piece of podrozetnik (and maybe walls), so that the wire can pass freely there. Then the socket is put in place.
On the lid a hole is cut to the size of the wire so that it fits snugly against the wall. Then the body is screwed into place.
The connected wire is lowered to the skirting board and is guided to the right place, every 30-40 cm fixed with clamps for wiring.

This video details the installation and connection of sockets:

Wire Hiding Options

The method by which the socket is fixed is selected depending on how it is planned to use it. A new outlet (for this type of installation is selected outdoor) can be screwed to the skirting board or simply left as a carry. The wire that goes from the outlet to the skirting board can be brought into the cable channel, but it must be glued to the wallpaper or fixed firmly between the cover of the outlet and the baseboard itself.

If the socket is installed seriously and for a long time, it is worth trying to still completely hide the wire. If there is a layer of plaster on the wall at least 3-4 mm thick, then in it you need to scratch the groove for the wire - then it will be flush with the surface and it will turn into a putty or paint over.

If wallpaper is pasted on the wall, then they are cut along the wire laying line and are bred to the sides. In order not to tear them, it is advisable to soak the seam. When the wallpaper is peeled off the wall, then in it you can scratch the furrow for the wire, lay it, putty and glue the wallpaper back.

Sockets in plasterboard

This is both a hidden and open wiring - it refers to the first because it is not visible, and the second category is because the wires are not walled up and can be reached. In addition to standard tools (unless the outlet box is installed), steel wire is required for installation. The procedure is as follows:

A rosette and a jar are extracted from the wall. To gipsokartonu they are screwed, so that you do not have to break anything.
Steel wire is inserted into the hole and pushed in the direction where the installation of a new outlet is planned. At this stage, you just need to make sure that there is a gap between the plasterboard slabs, profiles and the wall into which the corrugated wire will pass (the wire not protected from mechanical damage can not be left inside).
If a wire is found to find the way, then in the right place, a hole is drilled for a new piece of paper. A strong rope is fastened to the wire and it is pulled back.
Then, using a rope between the rosettes stretches the corrugation, the wires are wound in it and connected.

If the wire is not stretched between the profiles, a more radical means is used - the sheet of gypsum board is twisted, the wire is pulled and screwed back. It remains to plaster the broken joints and install the outlet. In some cases, instead of unscrewing a whole sheet, in the drywall simply cut out the desired shape of the hole (previously unscrewing the fixing screws), which is then put in place and putty.

How to use

This question is solved in each case individually, depending on where the "parent" socket is located and what power the connected device will have. If these are not kitchen sockets for the oven or points for the boiler's washing with the washing machine, calculations and practice show that several outlets will work without problems without the occurrence of overloads in the network.

The main condition for the installation of any sockets is good contacts between the wires, which reduces the overall resistance of the wiring and the likelihood of its heating during operation.