home Sewerage

Drain pit in a private house: device, types and cleaning.

People tend to go outside the metropolis, to the dacha, in order to be closer to nature, fresh air and land. But one unpleasant discovery awaits them there - the absence of the usual urban amenities, one of which is the sewage system. No centralized system, traditional for the city, so for a comfortable stay you have to lay pipes for Wastewater and get acquainted with such a concept as a drain pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of the country sewerage

The modern dacha is fundamentally different from the village houses of the last century. Household citizens replaced the toilets hastily assembled in the courtyard with comfortable toilets, installed showers, baths, washing machines and dishwashers in their homes. The question arose: where should the dirty used water flow?

This is how an elementary sewage system appeared: a set of outlet pipes that lead to a storage device installed on summer cottage outside the building. Various structures can act as a storage device: an expensive biological treatment plant, a simpler device - a septic tank or cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and waste water through pipes enter the storage tank, from where they are removed by special equipment at different intervals.

Regular pumping out of the contents of the waste pit is a prerequisite for its use. The only way effective cleaning drive - call the flushers

Most vacationers, especially those who spend only their summer vacation at their dachas, dream of installing a suitable drive quickly and cheaply. Perfect option in this case, a do-it-yourself drain pit. It will take several days to build it and a minimum of costs - mainly, improvised material: bricks, boards, cement.

Drive volume calculation

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each tenant. But you need to take into account the uncalculable water consumption during water procedures and the use of household appliances, therefore, for a family of 4 people, a tank of at least 6 m³ is required.

The slope of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for the complete pumping of sewage with sewage equipment - a specially provided hose, which is lowered to the bottom

The size of the structure depends on the volume of incoming wastewater, but there are certain boundaries. For example, the depth of the dacha drainage pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage equipment simply will not cope with cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, the length is 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The ground level must be at least 1 meter higher than the filling level of the pit. This is a kind of insurance against sewage spills beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to be mistaken in choosing a location. The question arises: how to properly make a pit for a drain pit so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain accumulator in relation to a residential building, a water source and the nearest obstacles

There are a number of rules:

The minimum distance from home to the drive is 5 m.
The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
The pit should be located in an open area not fenced off by buildings or fences.
A prerequisite is a good driveway for the sewer truck.

Must be considered drain hole as an object of increased danger, therefore, the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

An example of the construction of a brick pit

Stage # 1 - excavation and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so if possible, it is better to use an excavator. The most convenient form is considered to be rectangular or square, but pits and cylindrical configurations can also be found. During digging, the condition of the walls should be monitored: they must be level and protected from shedding.

The features of the drain pit device largely depend on the material. Let's take a closer look at the construction of a red brick drive with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be slightly tilted towards the hatch for effective cleaning. The bottom layer is a 15 cm sand cushion, then a layer of concrete, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multi-layer base, a reinforced concrete slab of suitable dimensions can be installed on the bottom.

Stage # 2 - building walls

The material for the construction of the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. The laying is done in the traditional way - with the brick shifting by half in the next row. The minimum thickness of the masonry is 0.25 m. The brick walls are partially permeable to water, but how to make the drain pit hermetically sealed? And it's very simple - you need to use bituminous mastic or a similar waterproofing solution.

During the construction of the pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand, for example, boards and beams, left over from the construction of the house are used

Attention! Only completely dry walls are covered with bitumen-based mastics.

Stage # 3 - overlap installation

The most durable is the reinforced concrete floor. Wood and plastic will not work as they have too short a lifespan. It is better if the upper part of the structure is blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. The construction for a concrete slab is created in several stages. The first layer of mortar (5-7 cm) is poured, then iron rods are laid on it, and the top is covered with a second layer of concrete. When the overlap is completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

Only the manhole cover remains visible on the ground. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a drain pit made of brick; basic skills in laying and processing walls are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The benefits of a waste tank include the following factors:

Ease of installation and maintenance. A hole can be dug and refined on your own, and to clean it, it is enough to call a flusher.
Independence of installation from the type of soil. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
Protection groundwater from pollution. The concrete bottom and brick walls prevent drains from entering the ground, but if they seep, soil bacteria will cope with cleaning.

Before digging a storage drainage pit, you should consider its negative sides. One of the tangible troubles is the occasional smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help fix this problem.

A well-equipped road leading directly to the drainage pit is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. It is better to do road construction at the stage of building a house.

It is necessary to get used to frequent visits to sewers - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does not siltation occur. The service life of a brick storage is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If, for some reason, the cesspool ceases to suit, you can install a more functional septic tank that produces mechanical and bacteriological wastewater treatment.

You have private house or a cottage outside the city? Do you have to take out a full bucket of water from under the sink every time? Stop suffering! Make a do-it-yourself drain in the house! It is quite real and quite simple. To do this, you will need to be patient and use the following materials: pencil, tape measure, hacksaw for metal, reinforced concrete rings, sewer pipe, rubber gaskets, concrete floors, cement, sand, gravel, wood, shovel and gloves.

Preparatory work

And so let's get started. First, you need to determine where the wastewater will be collected. Usually this is where the natural slope of the territory goes. And yet, if you have drinking water in a well or a well on your site, you must exclude the ingress of wastewater there. Secondly, it is necessary to draw a draft of the sewerage system (your private house must have a project, use it), measure and make a list necessary materials and component parts for work. Measure with maximum accuracy, taking into account everything to the smallest detail, so that you do not have to run to the store many times.

Are the materials ready? We begin installation work.

Internal sewerage

First, we lay the pipes inside the room. It is better to take PVC material, because it is easier to work with it. It is compatible with other building materials, it is lightweight, bends well, holds cement and bonds quickly.

Sewer pipe laying

Saw it with a hacksaw at a 90 degree angle. We connect the short parts of the structure at each joint, inserting rubber gaskets, which will ensure tightness. Now we connect all the elements. We take the pipes for the toilet bowls. They should be large in diameter (100 mm). This is necessary in order not to burden the drain. The rest of the pipes should have a diameter of about 50-75 mm, water will flow through them quickly enough.

We install pipes with a slope of 2-5 mm for each meter of pipe in order to simplify the drainage of water. We take the pipe out of the house at a depth of about one to two meters, depending on how deeply the ground freezes, and then, with a slope of 5 mm per linear meter, we introduce it into sewer well... Now check if water flows well through them.

External sewerage

So we reached the cesspool. It can be of several types and classifications, with a bottom or without a bottom, respectively, environmental or polluting environment.

You can use a pit without a bottom only if the flow volume is small (within 1 cubic meter per day) and if the points with drinking water are not closer than 50 meters from it.

But if you want to protect yourself from fines and criminal liability, then it is better to make a sealed cesspool. It is good because it eliminates problems, because they are pumped out with the help of professionals and special equipment. But this "pleasure" costs money.

Overflow sewerage in a private house

You can also build a sewer system with your own hands in a private house by processing wastewater, that is, a septic tank. In order to do three-chamber septic tank, you must follow a few rules:

The place for the septic tank is chosen lower than drinking water, at a distance of at least 50 m from the well.

There must be at least two meters to the fence.
There must be a place for the entry of sewage equipment.
Dig a hole with a volume of more than 3 drainage rates per day.
Fill the bottom with a 15-20 cm concrete pad so that water does not seep into the ground.
For walls, you can use reinforced concrete rings, ready-made plastic structures or lay them yourself from bricks.
At the end of the masonry of the walls, carefully seal up all the seams.
Trim twice interior the walls of the well with bitumen.
By the same principle, make a second camera, connecting them together.
The third chamber will be the same, only without the bottom. At the bottom of the well, about 50 cm of sand and gravel are poured to filter the water.

Ready. Now draining the water is not a problem for you. Your private house can have any of the three forms of sewerage offered by us. You only need to choose the most suitable option for your home and do it yourself.

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Plumbing, bathroom and toilet work country house requires arrangement competent system collection and disposal of waste water. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewage system, it is enough to obtain a permit and make a tie-in into the communal system, then in the absence of the benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of waste disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently, there are options for solving this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option is still a cesspool, a structure that has been tested by more than one generation of homeowners. A waste container of this type is good in that it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be attributed to filtration (absorbing) drain structures or sealed sewer tanks. Wastewater collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where it is decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of household wastewater from the site.

The costs of arranging a cesspool will pay off a hundredfold: this construction will give an urban level of comfort even at a distance from civilization

Many sources on the network claim that the choice of a particular design depends on the daily amount of waste discharged. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools with a volume of more than one cubic meter per day. We consider this statement to be true only in part. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewer truck will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m goes into the deepening of the sewer main. This leaves about 3 m of usable height. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5-6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration structure will allow this interval to be increased by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out does not differ at all from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that can prevent the construction of absorbing waste pits is their low environmental friendliness, since a large amount of waste can pollute aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow building a pit of any type, then the filtration system will be out of competition.

A feature of absorbent sewers is the presence of a drainage layer

For sewage pits without pumping, the presence of side walls and a floor slab is characteristic, while instead of a bottom, a crushed stone pillow is arranged in the structure. Thanks to her, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the soil. Quite often the walls of absorbent structures are perforated, which increases the absorbency of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewer in winter and protects against the spread of unpleasant odors. In the upper part of the structure, a hatch is erected through which the level of drains is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering waste pits

The advantages of absorbing containers are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operating interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses is significantly increased. Nevertheless, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

limited daily volume of wastewater;
the impossibility of building a structure with a high level of groundwater;
low degree of wastewater treatment;
decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
unpleasant odors around the structure.

Despite these disadvantages, leaking cesspools attract with their simplicity and the ability to use materials that often remain in the process of building a country house.

Factory plastic container is one of the most durable and simple ways sewerage arrangement

Sealed sewer pits are devoid of the drawbacks of absorbing structures, but they require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the tanks are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for sealed structures, the norms are more democratic, although they require thinking over the access routes and arranging the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents makes it possible to increase the efficiency of the waterproof drainage structures. The bacteria process the sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

The choice of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings... Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, spacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires are used. In a word, any suitable materials will do for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, you can build a pit in the traditional way - from bricks or reinforced concrete rings, concreting its bottom, and ensuring the watertightness of the walls.

Brick

Absorbing type brick waste pit

A brick-built waste tank is one of the most inexpensive and simple options, especially if you need to build a pit without pumping out. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps, which increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorbent wells are not devoid of the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative impact on the environment. In addition, brickwork in aggressive operating conditions quickly collapses, which leads to a short service life of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn truck tires provide a cheap and durable material for a waste tank without pumping out

It is possible to build a drain system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house with minimal costs using car tires as building material for an absorbent cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and equip a filtering layer of rubble at its bottom. Mounted on top of one another, the tires form a durable structure that prevents the walls of the structure from crumbling.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of environmental pollution by wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid siltation and a decrease in the efficiency of the system.

To increase the filtration capacity of the sump, distance spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as the perforations in concrete and brick pits, increasing the contact area between the wastewater and the ground.

From monolithic reinforced concrete

A concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures

A cesspool of this type is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, built by pouring concrete mix into the installed crate. Despite the fact that such a capacity is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow calling this design the best. Currently, such a construction method is being squeezed out by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

Of concrete rings

Concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls, depending on the tightness requirements.

The arrangement of a cesspool from cast concrete rings can only be partially attributed to inexpensive options. This is due to the fact that building materials will have to not only buy, but also hire equipment for loading and transportation to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms(below we will tell you how, if you want and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). Nevertheless, it is this option that is the simplest and most durable way of arranging both absorbent cesspools and sealed structures. Currently, reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are produced, which are ideal for the construction of sewage collectors without pumping out.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel, you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the operability of the sewerage of a country house

The easiest way to make a cesspool is to bury a plastic or metal container of a suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to obtain both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first is the absence of a tank bottom and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filter cushion.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that the construction of a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are mistaken. To operate sewer system took place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and think over its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

The size of the sewage system

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), operating mode (regular or periodic use), type of soil and other factors.

To calculate the sewer capacity without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

the amount of effluent per family member when using the bathroom, toilet and washing machine take equal to 200 liters. Depending on the specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 liters;
the calculation is carried out according to the maximum daily consumption of wastewater;
when determining the size of the cesspool, its volume must contain at least three times the daily amount of wastewater. That is, for a family of three, the container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer are determined for reasons of convenience, given that the depth should be read from the point of entry into it of the sewer main. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the drains are purified by anaerobic bacteria and go into the ground, the size of the absorption system will be sufficient for efficient operation.

When determining the volume of the filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams perfectly let water pass, while clay or loamy soil requires a larger area of contact of wastewater with the ground, and, consequently, an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a storage sewer tank, they use the same averaged data on drainage as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping out in days. For example, if you plan to pump out a hole every two weeks, then for a family of three, its volume should be 150x3x14 = 6.3 cubic meters.

Most of the sewage trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-volume waste tank is required

Before making a final conclusion about the size of the sewage structure, be sure to consult with utilities or individuals who pump out the sewage system. The fact is that the volume of most sewage trucks is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5-8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer collector with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to lay in additional volume if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a place for construction

When choosing a place for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you get a rather long list. Nevertheless, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since failure to comply with them is fraught with both ineffective work and inconvenience in maintaining the sewage system, and administrative liability under the current Administrative Code.

Restrictions on the choice of location for the cesspool

You should not place a cesspool at the very bottom of the site in order to avoid flooding it with flood or rainwater.
It is forbidden to equip filtration structures if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
The pit must be removed:
from the foundations of buildings - at least 10 m;
from fences - more than 1 m;
from roads and trees - 4 m.
Distance from sources drinking water should be:
for clayey soils - at least 20 m;
for loams - at least 30 m;
for sands and loamy sands - from 50 m.
When choosing a place for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of a sewer truck's entrance.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of the design of the sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up, indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of the sewer mains and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure so elementary that its design does not require "unnecessary body movements", we recommend making at least a simple sketch. Believe me, it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapting to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration wastewater treatment plant Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Sewage pit drawing with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for the manufacture of sealed and filtration cesspools

Having decided on the location of the drain pit and making necessary calculations, start excavation work. If the sewage system is equipped using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. It is dug by hand or using earthmoving equipment.

The excavator will save time and effort in preparing the pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earth-moving equipment.

For construction sewer it is also easiest to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on the site is impossible for a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines interfere, etc. In this case, they use the old method that our grandfathers used. One of the rings is set in place, climbed inside and using a shovel with a short handle, they extract the soil, gradually removing the earth from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is level with the site, the next ring is installed and the soil continues to be removed until the desired depth is reached.

Required tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, before starting construction, prepare bricks, concrete rings or a prefabricated reinforced concrete structure with a lid, truck tires, formwork boards, etc. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

cement and sand for mortar preparation;
fine rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
metal bar or reinforcement for the manufacture of a concrete cover;
a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
waterproofing;
buckets and container for solution preparation;
trowel, mason's hammer;
bubble level, cord and plumb line;
shovel and bayonet shovels.

If a large amount of concrete work is planned, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which can be borrowed from friends or rented.

Brick construction for a private house

For the construction of a sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burned-out material, which is considered a defect in production. Silicate products are not recommended for use due to their low resistance in humid environments.

The order of work is as follows:

Video: the secrets of building a brick pit

Reinforced concrete ring sewer

Today, manufacturers offer a wide range of rings. It must be understood that for a diameter of additional elements over 1.5 m, lifting equipment will have to be used, therefore the best option for making a cesspool with your own hands, products with a size of Ø1 × 0.89 m are used. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and a cover. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table of standard sizes of reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Workflow instructions:

Video: construction from concrete rings

Monolithic reinforced concrete pit

A cesspool made of in-situ concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable structures. Note that in this case it is better to dig the foundation pit by hand. This will allow installing the battens on one side only and will reduce the consumption of concrete. Construction works carried out in stages.

Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

Do-it-yourself cesspool of tires from vehicles

For the manufacture of a waste pit, tires from heavy vehicles and buses are used. Given the width of the wheels, at least 8-10 tires are required. The pit can be dug both manually and with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20-30 cm larger than the outer dimensions of the tires. This will facilitate their installation and provide an opportunity to increase throughput absorbent system. In some sources, you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of the tires to increase the internal volume of the pit. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since this will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude about the priority of the area of contact between the liquid and the soil over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

In terms of the method of laying, the variant with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing between two adjacent tires 5-6 spacers, which can be used as a red brick. The slots between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purposes, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick debris, after which an overlap is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system.

It is possible to increase the absorbency of pits without pumping out by installing a drainage pipe with a height of more than 1 m and a diameter of at least 20 cm, which is half-buried in the ground. In its hidden part, holes are made with a diameter of no more than 5 cm. Of course, the best material there will be not metal, but plastic.

Video: a pit of tires in a country house

Decorating the installation sites of cesspools. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil with which the overlap of the cesspool is covered, it is not difficult to hide it from the eyes. To do this, shrubs are planted over the sewer, they equip a flower bed or sow a lawn. Wooden and stone elements are used to decorate sewer hatches, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps from our photo gallery you can glean interesting idea or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden rack mounted on the pit cover Lawn Decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration with natural materials Even a ventilation riser can be beaten gracefully and beautifully. Aerobatics - use the space and create a true masterpiece of landscape design Installing a flowerpot of the original shape with flowers Decorating artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of cesspool designs allows you to build a sewage structure in full accordance with the needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply sanitary standards and rules, especially in the part that deals with the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what will go to our children and grandchildren.

Sewerage in a private house is absolutely necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you only bring the summer months there. I will help you figure out the basic diagrams of the sewer system, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of the work.

Sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. It is possible to use the street and cesspool only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before making a sewage system in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is consistently:

Analysis of existing communications. If in locality there is a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. It will be enough for us just to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

Determination of the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and more expensive to make a septic tank, but it needs pumping less often, a cesspool - on the contrary. Optimal choice- a septic tank combined with a biological treatment station, but high price acts as a limiting factor.

Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, you need to be guided by the current regulations that determine minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the relief (to dig less) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
Allocation of a room. The sewerage system of a private house should link together all the water discharge points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, therefore we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it against the outer wall, on the side of the house where the reservoir will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

Preliminary planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (we immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and assess whether the project will be "lifting".

If the preliminary stage has ended successfully, you can proceed to purchasing and performing preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewage system

An independent sewage system in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum of materials required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are shown in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic tank. The optimal solution for an autonomous sewage system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. The main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank to accumulate waste. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". A plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	Concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then reservoirs for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, one cannot do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for outdoor sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank with the house, special outer pipes (orange paint) are used. They tolerate temperature changes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laid at depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. Internal sewer wiring formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with the pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for registration of turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe thermal insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated rooms (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is advisable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

gravel and sand for earthworks and laying the drainage layer;
cement mortar;
sealant based on moisture resistant silicone;
revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

Outdoor work

Stage 1. The principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Sewerage installation in a private house includes two types of work:

outdoor- consist in the device of the reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
internal- presuppose the installation of piping in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, but if not, then it is necessary to start with the device of the outer part.

The most efficient design for autonomous sewerage a private house is considered a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but ensures its processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

Upholding... First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (sludge), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid is collected in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste takes place with the release of gaseous reaction products and mineralization of the residues.

Overflow... An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
Filtration... In the second chamber (filtration or drainage well), the clarified wastewater passes through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage also retains some of the pollution, so almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle, both home-made and factory-made. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more effective cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of the septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3/1000, where

V- the required volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
3 - average duration of wastewater cleaning, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people the volume will be as follows:

V = 4 * 200 * 3/1000 = 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of a sewage tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make the sewerage system in a private house. The algorithm of work on the device of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a foundation pit to install the tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of bedding and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually, for large-scale structures it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Preparation of the base. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay the sand bedding up to 20 cm thick. Under the installation site of the sump (first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing pad made of clay or a concrete disc, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well.
	Installation of containers. We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to exclude the ingress of untreated wastewater into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump airtight, pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bitumen mastic and lay a waterproofing roll material. We fill in the drainage at the bottom of the filtration well: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the bottom ring of this tank or use a special perforated reinforced concrete blank.
	Overflow decoration. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into the holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. To prevent organic waste from entering the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of the lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows the selection of the clarified liquid under the surface organic film. The installation locations of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Overlap and necks. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deeply, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - this way the unpleasant smell will evaporate faster. We cover the wells or separately withdrawn necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, securing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is advisable to seal it outside using roofing material or bitumen mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks - the so-called clay castle - will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the reservoir to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe that connects the tank to the house. Through it, wastewater will flow into the treatment / storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation being performed
	Digging and preparing trenches. We dig a trench between the house and the septic tank with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient drainage, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. At the bottom we put a sand bedding up to 15 cm. We moisten the bedding and ram it.
	Pipe laying. We put a waste drain pipe in the trench. The optimum pipe diameter for the outside of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm.
	Thermal insulation of the pipe. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with rolled material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or we use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.	Entering the house. The place of entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is advisable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input unit should be insulated.

After the completion of these works, we completely fill up all the trenches and pits, and then lay fertile soil or a layer of sod over the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make a sewer wiring correctly

Stage 4. The main elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of the internal sewerage system. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of sinks are located, so here I will give a description of its main elements:

Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (at least 110 mm), which brings all the circuits together. As a rule, in a private house one riser is made, but in large buildings there may be several of them. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outgoing sewer pipe.
Fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, it serves to remove gases accumulating in pipes from the system to the external environment. It is displayed in a separate ventilation shaft or connected to ventilation pipe located above the level of the roof.

Without fan pipe the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation shut-off valves... In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

Trunk branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drainage to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually done by gravity (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimum slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
Supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be greater than the diameter of the line.

Revisions- special fittings, which are a single-branch tee equipped with a closing hatch. The revision is placed at the base of the riser, at bends, forks and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline for removing blockages or maintenance work.

Step 5. Connecting pipes

All pipes are connected to each other using fittings that allow you to make turns, bends, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is advisable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs are easily assembled by hand :

Illustration	Assembly operation
	Socket preparation. Insert a rubber O-ring into the socket. We level the seal by placing it in the groove and making sure there are no bends and creases.
	Connection of pipes. We insert the branch pipe into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the branch or inspection hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on supporting surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in the grooves or behind the casing) and open gasket. In the second case, plastic clamps with a snap or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Flat siphon under the bathtub, choose a pipe diameter of at least 50 mm.

Bathroom or shower- connected to the sewerage system using compact siphons, which are placed under the drain holes. The optimum outlet pipe diameter is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- built into the system using siphons with water traps. The siphon is usually in the shape of a flask and is placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, a separate branch should be installed. sewer pipe equipped with a flare with a rubber sealing collar.

Conclusion

The sewerage system installation technology includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them. You can visually familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions that arise in the comments to this material.

If there is no centralized sewage system next to the house, then arranging a cesspool can be considered as a solution to the problem. In any house where there is a hot and cold water supply, there is a problem of collecting and removing the sewage system.

A cesspool is the simplest option for a sewage system in a private or country house, which you can do with your own hands.

Where should the cesspool be located

First, you need to decide on the site on which the cesspool system will be equipped.

directly on the site adjacent to a private or country house;
possible arrangement at a distance of at least 10 meters from the foundation of a residential building and other buildings in the backyard area and to structures located in the neighborhood;

Important! This requirement is based on the fact that with a closer installation of a leaky pit without pumping out, the destruction of the foundations of nearby buildings, as well as their flooding, is possible.

the distance from the pit to the fence is also regulated and must be at least one meter;
the depth should not be more than 3 meters. When choosing, you need to take into account the depth of passage groundwater;
the pit must be at a certain distance (25 meters) from drinking wells.

This distance depends on the type of soil in the backyard:

With clay soil - no closer than 20 meters;
With loamy soil - no closer than 30 meters;
With sandy loam and sandy soil, the cesspool cannot be installed closer than 50 meters from the well.

Diy cesspool system

There are two main types of pit arrangement:

sealed;
usual without a bottom.

The option of arranging a sewerage system in a country or private house is determined by the location of the territory, the daily amount of wastewater and the material capabilities of the owner of the site:

if the daily amount of wastewater is not more than one cubic meter, it is possible to build a simple system without a bottom and without pumping out. In a pit of this type, the wastewater partially goes into the ground, in which it is purified by anaerobic bacteria. An example of this cesspool is a classic country toilet;
with a large amount of wastewater (more than a cubic meter), the construction of a sealed structure is required, which must be pumped out from time to time.

This requirement is explained by the fact that in the absence of a bottom in the pit, waste water passes into the ground and is purified by microorganisms located in the ground. But their cleaning capabilities are not endless.

At large quantities microorganisms cannot cope with water purification. In this case, wastewater will begin to pollute the adjacent area and it is possible that it will pass into the water-bearing soil layers with further pollution of the drinking well.

If the disposal of a large amount of wastewater is required, you can consider the arrangement of a septic tank with filtration fields.

Do-it-yourself ordinary sewage pit

The simplest drainage system is done like this:

digging a pit up to two meters deep, two meters wide and up to three meters long;
the walls of the earth are laid or fixed;
a layer of rubble is poured down;
a protective cover with a cover is installed on top.

The main advantages of a pit without a bottom:

ease of use;
low cost of construction and operation;
simple and quick DIY construction.

Disadvantages of a pit without a bottom:

the groundwater level must be below the level of the sewage system;
not suitable for the sewerage of a large amount of sewage;
environmentally unsafe;
possible unscheduled filling due to rainwater;
has an unpleasant odor.

Sealed waste pit

A sealed drainage system is a sealed container where sewage water is pumped through pipes. As the tank is filled, sewage water must be pumped out with a special machine.

The main advantages of a sealed system:

the installation site does not depend on the type of soil on the site;
does not depend on the passage of groundwater;
environmentally friendly, sewage water does not enter the environment.

Cons of a sealed design:

there is a smell if the drive is made in the form of a well;
monthly costs (you need to periodically call a sewer truck for pumping out);
relatively high construction cost.

What to build a drain pit with your own hands

Consider different types and methods of constructing drainage systems that you can do yourself. They are conventionally divided into permanent and temporary.

From car tires

If you need a flush system for a toilet in a country house at minimal cost, you can make it yourself using old car tires.

This is a quick and budget option for the construction of a sewer pit. The construction is pretty simple. A pit is made, where old tires are stacked one on top of the other. A layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom of the pit; if desired, the tires are sealed with a clay lock.

Advantages:

if necessary, it is easily restored;
durability;
speed, simplicity and low cost of construction.

Disadvantages:

tires undergo rotting over time;
the possibility of a negative impact on the environment with a high load on the structure;
quick silting up with insufficient cleaning and pumping, as a result, useful area is lost.

Of concrete rings

This is another way to quickly build a drainage system. It is similar in design to a well. The rings are stacked on top of each other. The joints between them, if desired, are sealed with a cement screed.

By its design, a sewer pit made of concrete rings is more of a sealed structure. Therefore, you need to regularly pump it out. Although there is an option to install a septic tank from concrete rings.

Main advantages:

Convenience of a protective cover with a hatch;
durability;
the possibility of construction with your own hands;
relatively low cost.

Disadvantages:

the possibility of an unpleasant odor from the ventilation pipes;
the need for periodic pumping;
labor intensity of installation.

Brick drain pit

This is the most successful and the best option if you need a flush system for a toilet or a bath in a country house.

Advantages:

ease of construction - almost any summer resident will cope with laying bricks for a drain pit;
sustainability - content drain structure is periodically pumped out by a sewage truck.

Disadvantages:

silting up. Silting can be prevented by constant pumping out of the liquid in the reservoir;
relatively short service life (up to 20 years), as a result of the destruction of bricks in unfavorable conditions of the drainage system;
from time to time the formation of an unpleasant odor is likely. To cope with this can help the use of various drugs that accelerate the processes of waste decomposition and timely pumping out of the drive.

Construction of a brick cesspool

First you need to decide on the location of the drain pit, observing all the rules and taking into account the ease of use.

Choosing a design. Taking into account the purpose, the drainage brick pit can be rectangular, square or round.

We calculate the required volume, dimensions and prepare the pit for the pit.

With a rectangular design, we tilt the bottom towards the installation of the hatch. At the bottom of the pit we pour a sand cushion with a layer of 20 cm and fill it with cement mortar. You can take a finished reinforced concrete slab required sizes... A cement screed is made on top.

We are laying the walls. The optimal wall thickness is 30 cm. It is advisable to lay the walls in a checkerboard pattern in half a brick. Laying in a quarter brick is possible.

Then, when the walls are ready, you need to treat them with bituminous mastic or make a clay lock from the outside for better sealing. If necessary, we will plaster the inner surface.

Installation of a hatch and ceiling

Then, when the base of the drain pit is ready, we install an overlap with a hatch. The overlap must cover the pit along the perimeter by at least 50 cm.

In the role of overlapping, concrete slabs are chosen or logs are carefully laid. When arranging a cesspool, it is necessary to provide a location for the hatch. The hatch is made with a size of 70 cm.

On top of the overlap with a stele, waterproofing from a film or roofing material. We cover the waterproofing with a layer of slag or soil 0.5 m in size.

Attention! To protect against the appearance of odors from the drain pit and its freezing, the hatch into the pit is installed double. The top cover is located on the surface of the ground, and the other at the floor level. The space that appears in the bow is filled with heat-insulating materials (slag, expanded clay, polystyrene, etc.).

Sewer pit from a barrel

This is an excellent option for arranging water drains with your own hands with natural cleaning. cesspool with small amounts of wastewater (up to 1 cubic meter).

Barrel preparation:

we use a 200 liter barrel, best of all from a material that does not corrode, we make holes in the wall in a checkerboard pattern for drainage with a drill or grinder. It is advisable to make holes with a distance of 15-25 centimeters;
tightly fasten the connection pipe to the bottom of the barrel drain pipe... Silicone sealants can be used to provide a seal. We process the section of connecting the branch pipe with mastic;
we wrap the barrel with geotextile and firmly fasten it with twine. This is necessary to ensure the protection of the container from the ingress of earth and other foreign particles into its structure, while maintaining normal drainage.

Installation of a cesspool sewer system:

we make a trench and lay sewer pipes, certainly with a slope;
we prepare a pit with a depth and size just above the depth of the barrel;
down the pit we fill in gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 20 cm;
put a barrel on this pillow and connect the drain pipe;
the formed space between the walls of the pit and the container is filled with gravel or crushed stone;
we attach the sewer pipe to the installed pipe.

Now the sewer hole for your bath is ready. You can also make a toilet drain with your own hands.

As an option for arranging a sewer home system, you can consider the device of a cesspool concrete drain pit.

Stages of construction of a concrete pit:

Using this technology, you can make a drain pit for a toilet with your own hands.

Summarizing

There are quite a few options to build a cesspool on your own. Choosing a specific solution, taking into account specific conditions and material capabilities. You can also consider installing a septic tank or buying a ready-made kit for arranging a drain pit.