How to release air from the battery bimetal. How to release air from the battery - ways for different types of structures

The cold times have come, and in each house the heating system has been working for a long time. Modern radiators are so convenient and practical that many have already forgotten how it was possible to heat a house without small, compact and convenient batteries. But even heating has its drawbacks. The first one is very overdried air, which can be moistened with a special humidifier on the battery. Second, there are many technical issues, one of which we will discuss today.

What is the battery and how to determine it?

If you notice that the batteries do not heat up at full capacity, even yesterday the whole system worked perfectly and the house was warm, probably the whole problem is that you only need to bleed the air from the battery that is not quite hot. This article will tell in all details how to release air from the battery.

Before bleeding air, you need to make sure that this is really a causal failure of the system.

To begin with, check all the batteries: if they are all too cold or too hot, there may be a problem directly in the heater, or maybe a different precipitate accumulates in the batteries. Also, observe if the water drips from the batteries. Perhaps in the battery leak, then just need to turn off the heating system and.

If, as a result of the actions performed, the situation has not changed, the nut may have been corroded and must be replaced. There are moments that on the upper floors of the battery remain cold, while on the floor below the battery is very well heated. In such cases it is desirable to call a master who specializes in this field.

And if as a result of a detailed survey heating system  you did not find any other problems, except that some battery is partially or completely cold, then you just need to understand how to bleed the air out of the battery.

What can lead to zazvdushennost heating system?

But first, let's see what the consequences of such a seemingly harmless blast of one battery can be.

As it turned out, the fact that the radiator does not heat the room is not the biggest trouble. The main problem is that the air in the batteries leads to rusting it from the inside, and as a result - to reduce the service life of the radiator.

The next nuance - if you have an autonomous heating system, the boiler is forced to "chase" the system air, and not liquid. And this leads to premature damage to the bearings on the shaft and, as a result, the pump fails beforehand.

How to properly drain air from the battery?

Useful scheme for work

In order to release air from the heating battery, use a special key to open the "air valve".

Most often in such cases, use a special radiator wrench, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Modern batteries allow you to use a screwdriver for such purposes.

Now, when the key or screwdriver, as well as the capacity for draining water at your fingertips, examine the battery and from any side of it, find a small valve, which is called the Maevsky crane in the people.

Today, you can install several of these valves, and you can do with one, at the top of the radiator. When you have found the necessary valve, unscrew it to the side until you hear the air howling.

Place a container under the tap and wait for all excess air to come out and water will start to drip. Wait until the water stops bubbling and runs a thin trickle. Now all the air in the batteries has been lowered, and the crane can be turned back to its original position.

In addition to the above-mentioned Mayevsky crane, an automated air drift or a conventional valve can be installed on the heating radiator, which is elementarily screwed into any of the upper plugs of the radiator. Automated drift spontaneously perform all the actions for bleeding excess air from the battery.

Little things and nuances

If, however, during installation of the heating system, the masters are too lazy and did not install a special valve on the radiator, then you yourself will have to conduct a simple procedure of lowering the air from the battery, but in a slightly different way.

To do this, you need to have a gas or a wrench, with which you start to unscrew the plug very slowly. If the unscrewed plug is cast-iron battery  do not untwist, apply the thread lubricant directly to the thread itself and after a certain time again try again.

In private houses with an autonomous heating system, it is sometimes necessary to drain water by means of a surge tank, which is always at the highest point of the heating system.

After the water has been drained, wait for a while and then turn off the tap on the expansion tank. Almost always the cork goes out automatically when the temperature of the radiator rises. If these actions did not lead to the desired result, bring the water in the heating system to a boil and then the air stopper will necessarily come out.

Also, keep in mind that the airlock can form in places where the pipeline is bent, for this reason, when installing the heating system, it is necessary to maintain the optimum distance of the slope direction when the pipeline is routed.

If the actual pipe slope is different from the projected one or the pipeline makes a loop, then additional air bleed valves must be installed.

Modern manufacturers of heating radiators are sometimes not very conscientious in their field of production, and as a result, we get a poor-quality radiator, which can bring an additional headache. And all because, how many do not bleed the air from a battery that is not manufactured to the standards, the air in it will be infinite. Because the radiator material itself contributes to the formation of gases. This problem has only one solution - to buy a new high-quality battery.

If you are closer to the format of video instructions - see the video below. There everything is shown step by step.


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Warm you at home and not zavozdushih batteries!

With the beginning of the heating season, some residents apartment buildings  and the owners of their own cottages are asked the problem: how to release air from the heating battery?

The need for this arises from the uneven heating of the premises. After the start of the heating season, it becomes apparent that some batteries heat well, and some remain cold whole or half. Cold radiators and noise in them - signs of the formation of air congestion, the causes of which are:

  • lack of proper pressure in the heating system, which in itself leads to its incorrect operation. Pressure decreases with leakage of coolant through poorly sealed seams;
  • release of radiators of poor quality, non-compliance with standards in their manufacture;
  • production of substandard repairs - non-compliance with the directions of the slope of pipeline mains;
  • improper filling of the heating system with water - the filling should be carried out with simultaneous descent of the air, the descent can only be carried out slowly;
  • low quality of water in the heating system - too hard water does not allow the system to work correctly, the optimum rigidity is 5-7 mg / eq / l.

Cold heaters in this case, the troubles, air congestion is a threat to the entire heating system as a whole. The metal parts of the system rust and cease to perform their basic functions, which may entail additional costs in the form of replacement of the entire system.


Unpleasant moments are extra noise in the premises. Usually it is the sound of running water, noise and crackles that distract and prevent you from resting and working. Therefore, the problem of the correct release of air from the battery remains relevant. To conduct independent work, you need to know the nuances of proper manipulation with the heating devices for draining water.

How to release air from the batteries

In houses and apartments, old heating systems coexist with modern ones, batteries with air vent systems are installed somewhere, while in others there are still cast iron structures without them. Therefore, it is sometimes difficult to understand how to release air from the batteries of a particular design. As a rule, several methods of conducting preventive works are considered.

In a heating system with natural circulation, in which the piping is at the top of the system, the air plug is removed through the storage tank, also at the highest point. Such systems, as less stable, recede into the background. Their place is occupied by systems with forced circulation, in which air outlets are required. They are installed on aluminum and bimetallic heating appliances. This is correct due to the fact that when these materials come into contact with the coolant, hydrogen must be released, which must be removed.


Manual air vent or Maevsky cranes

Invented a crane plumber named Roev, and another more clever master, by the name of Maevsky, patented the invention. The usual way to drain water through large openings in radiators was not economical for boilers, as citizens used hot water  from radiators for personal needs. For example, for washing clothes or washing the car.

The Maevskogo crane is a mechanical aggregate consisting of a 1/2 or 3/4 inch screw with a tiny hole in the middle and a rubber sealing ring. Sometimes it is also called a needle valve air vent. It is fixed to the radiator with the help of a trickle (bush with male thread). The crane is installed on the top of the radiator or heated towel rail.


To start bleeding air from the heating system, unscrew the cone-shaped screw of the valve counterclockwise with a screwdriver and wait for a light hiss and drops or water jets - the air has gone. If the hissing is over, it does not mean that the process is complete. It is better to wait a while, and then turn the tap.


Tip. Strongly untwisting the tap is not necessary, since the water pressure may not allow you to swing it back later. When carrying out manipulations it is important not to forget to put a rag next to the battery. It is not superfluous to pay attention to the fact that the hole was not directed to the walls, since there is a threat of damage to the finish of the room.

The price of the Mayevsky crane is 60-100 rubles. Some firms offer models, stylized under the antiquity, their price reaches 1200 rubles.


This is a metal unit, mounted on a radiator, which is designed to automatically remove air without human intervention. Inside there are a float and a needle valve. These two mechanisms create a balance of the air vent. In working condition, the body is filled with water, the float is raised, the valve is closed. The formed air gradually enters the device, the float under its influence descends and opens the valve, which allows the air to come out. These devices are usually installed at the highest points of the heating system, where the largest amount of it accumulates.


These units can be straight or angled, depending on the configuration of the batteries. It is important that the outlet is always pointed upwards.


The automatic air vent is installed in two ways.

  1. Direct installation in the thread.
  2. Installation through a shut-off valve. This valve allows you to remove air vents without disconnecting the system. They are removed for periodic cleaning, since in contaminated impurities, it stops working correctly.

To avoid problems when installing this mechanism, observe a number of rules. You can unscrew and twist it only with a wrench, as when using a drawbar, you can not calculate the effort, and it will crack. For the body of the air vent during the work can not be kept - can be broken.


The price for the automatic unit is from 300 to 500 rubles, which is much more expensive than its mechanical counterparts. Well-known vented vent companies - Danfoss and Wind.


How to release air from a cast iron battery

To carry out manipulations to remove excess air from cast iron heaters of the old type in apartment buildings  invite plumbers from the housing office, as this rule is governed by a decree of the Ministry of State Building of September 27, 2003. In fact, plumbers are eliminated from these works, giving the right to the owners to solve problems with heating.

In private cottages, as a rule, this work has to be done by the tenants themselves. Some craftsmen install an ordinary tap on the holes in the cast-iron batteries, which undoubtedly spoils the appearance of the living quarters, but simplifies the process of air release. To release the air from the cast-iron battery correctly, you need to know a certain sequence of actions.


In a private cottage, the boiler must be switched off. If all the same work is decided to produce independently in the apartment, you need to disable the distribution valve on the riser. Next, you need to go to the hose assembly to the radiator hole. The hose should be long, reach the nearest convenient drain to the sewer or to the street.

Tip. During the release of water, it is necessary to place a bowl or a bucket of water under the battery and stock up with rags, as water will drain out of the battery.

Then unscrew the cap. This is not easy to do, because cast-iron batteries usually paint with oil paint, and it hardens around the plug. Sometimes the connecting parts are also applied to the patella, which also does not facilitate easy unscrewing of the plugs. To facilitate the work, a special lubricant is applied to the thread, which simplifies the unscrewing process.


Work is carried out using a swivel spanner.

Tip. If you immediately unscrew the cap on a cast iron battery is not possible, the lubricant does not help, then the kerosene will help dissolve the paint, it is applied to the joints and waiting for 10-20 minutes.

After all the necessary work is done, it is necessary to wrap the cap with a foamed tape (thin transparent sealant) and attach it again.


Whether it is necessary to let out air from the battery, to solve to owners of houses and apartments. But if there is a desire to live in comfortable conditions, without freezing because of improperly operating heating, it is better to learn how to let the air out of the heating battery yourself. Moreover, knowing the sequence of actions, this will not be a difficult task!

The natural air content in the system, during the season creates problems: cold heat radiators, noise, corrosion of metal pipes eventually begins. To avoid uncomfortable operation and to extend the life of the steel wiring and heating blocks, the system is freed from atmospheric jams. Let's talk, why they arise and in what ways from them will get rid!

   Installing a crane on a heating battery

Causes of air concentration in the heating system

One condition for the congestion of slugs is clear - a long break in the work of the heating system. Other reasons are as follows:

  1. The calculation of the house wiring is done incorrectly. Deviations, excesses are not taken into account. Due to this, even a professionally designed system will contain some air after it is put into operation. is formed necessarily and in some cases the whole system needs to be reworked.
  2. Uneven filling of the system with a carrier. This is due to unstable pressure in the pipeline, damage to areas outside the entrance to the house or when working with interruptions. Filling of voids with atmospheric masses occurs during the heating season, if the value of the carrier pressure is low. For bleeding, airmen are also used.
  3. Leakage of the pipeline. As a result of the operation of the heating system and, accordingly, repair, the replacement of the sections in separate pipes can be neglected. The absence or lack of compaction will lead to depressurization and due to the pressure force, the fistula will draw air into the water circuit, accumulating it in the pipeline sections. Before removing the air cap, the pipeline is checked by saponification of the prepared emulsion.
  4. Air congestion occurs as a result of heating the water. From the school course of physics it is clear that when heated, air in the heating system of a private house or apartment building expands and forms bubbles. When they burst, they release air, which immediately accumulates.
  5. Absence of air intake devices or their inadequate operation. The air vent valve from the heating system is the first thing you should pay attention to when designing your own home heating. Closed system  with a heating unit of an autonomous type in its own house should have a similar device on the boiler or furnace.
  Self-removal scheme

The formation of plugs affects the connection to the heating system of other water circuits - boilers, warm floors. The level of location of additional devices is strikingly different from the position of the heating devices, which makes the appearance of the atmosphere inevitable. To operate these types of heating, a bypass contour check valve, the pressure in the instrument systems will remain stable and there will not be a plug.

Remove the air stopper from the aluminum and bimetallic battery

When the cause of the cluster is identified and eliminated, the air obstacle is eliminated. Before venting the heating system, it is important to know how the coolant circulates - forcibly or naturally. On this depends the way to bleed the cork mass. So:

Natural circulation

For such a system, an expansion tank is sufficient at the top point - the supply pipeline is laid to it with a gradient upwards. To bleed the air from the heating system, each radiator is supplied with a crawler or a Maevsky crane in order to consistently squeeze the mass towards the tank previously emptied.

Forced circulation

In this case, the supply line has a downward slope. It installs drain valves, and the return flow is directed to the drainage of water, so that in the event of emergency measures, it is possible to release air from the radiator quickly for further repair.

Tools for bleeding air from the heating system

The reset function has numerous cranes and drain valves. The most common in private house systems are the following:

  • Crane of Majewski. In the documentation it is listed as an air needle radiator valve for heating. Required to blow out the heating system. It consists of a brass body, containing a hole for discharge and a screw. Use it with a special wrench or a screwdriver turns counter-clockwise. When the air stops coming out of the system, the faucet is closed until it stops. Be sure to prepare a container for collecting water and rags - it is thrown on the faucet to avoid splattering on the walls of dirty water. The used pump is temporarily disconnected.
  • Automatic air vent. The principle of operation is the activation of the float built into the body - the air automatic valve itself is already at the point of the system. When air accumulates in the pipeline, the float is lowered, thereby opening the vent valve and removing it. After normalizing the pressure, the mass of water again presses the float. To prevent media leakage, the housing of the device is equipped with a screw cap. The device is indispensable for forced circulation.
  Installation of the heating system in the house
  • Separator. "Advanced" air ducts in the heating system. It is installed mainly in extended networks with autonomous heating. Allows to drop not only air, but also sludge - scale, dirt, sand and clay. It consists of two parts: a common cylinder body with two outlets - an upper air chamber and a bottom for solid debris, and a filtering grid that holds air bubbles and guides them upwards into the chamber. In order to release air from the battery, both cranes are opened and the line is cleaned.

For the qualitative work of the home heating network, masters are recommended to install several types of bleeding devices. For example, an automatic reset valve for heating is mounted on a boiler or furnace - there the pressure is consistently high. Radiators are equipped with Mayevsky cranes each. The collector is supplemented with a separator.

Determination of the airborne section and removal of the plug: how to release the air

There are several ways to determine the amount of air in the system. The main one is the cold section of the network. In addition, the sound during ringing is more sonorous than in pipes with normal circulation of water. A characteristic noise - gurgling and hissing - will tell you about the presence of air. So, when a site is defined, proceed as follows:

  • An important condition: to expel air from the heating system is possible only in the direction of the coolant and from a point beyond a certain area with the help of the nearest Mayevsky crane or other kind of a drift.
  • Next, slowly open the air valve for heating, preparing the appropriate tools, containers and rags and letting air out.
  • The control release is made by briefly switching on the circulation pump. After that, the faucet is closed and the system is operating normally.

Thus, it turns out, to remove air from the heating system. Uncomplicated and independent work  will take no more than an hour.

If the system still blows

It also happens that the measures taken do not work, and it was not possible to remove the air from the heating system. What to do in this case:

  • Try to move the accumulation of air from places far away from the gate of the descent. To do this, raise the system temperature by increasing the fuel dose. Accordingly, the pressure also increases. The method is good, since it allows you to remove excess air automatically through valves, expansion tank or air collector for the heating system. At least, it will be possible to adjust the mass of air to the valve.
  • Impact method. With a hammer acting on the radiators, create oscillations of the carrier, which move the plug. Experienced masters, this method helps to move the mass of air to the right place.
  • Cardinally. Heating will have to be dismantled and reassembled. To get by with the "lesser blood", dismantled from the Italian manufacturers for this purpose are good, since they have prefabricated elements that are amenable to accurate twisting. Disassemble and radiators, removing from them accumulated sludge, and collect using gaskets. The method is available only to professionals and with the permission of the service company, since it is necessary to block the riser if it is a multi-apartment building.

SEE VIDEO

So, having learned why the heating system is being plugged in, it is already easy to eliminate the cause and drive out the accumulated masses - the process is understandable.

It is important to constantly prevent our own heating model, so that in the future, operation would go without such unpleasant surprises that affect comfort.

To drain air from the battery is not difficult, the main thing is to study all the nuances!

If there is a malfunction in the heating system, they are usually detected at the beginning of the heating season. A lot of problems, such as uneven heating of the radiator or excessive noise, can eliminate a simple action - the removal of air from the heating system.

The ingress of air into the water heating system is a very common phenomenon. And respond to it immediately. Although some air in the system may not seem dangerous, it often causes more serious problems. And sometimes zazvdushennost radiator or pipes allows you to identify breakdowns or flaws in the installation of the heating system.

The presence of air congestion is usually manifested in the form of uneven heating of individual elements of the system, for example, radiators. If the device is filled with a heat carrier only partially, its operation can hardly be called effective, since the room receives less part of the thermal energy, i.e. does not warm up.

If the upper part of the radiator stays cold and only its bottom warms up, most likely the device is airborne, you need to release air

If the air has accumulated in the pipes, it prevents the coolant from moving normally. As a result, the operation of the heating system can be accompanied by a rather strong and unpleasant noise. Sometimes part of the system starts to vibrate. The presence of air in the circuit causes activation of various chemical processes, for example, can cause the decomposition of calcium and magnesium hydrocarbonate compounds.

This leads to the formation of carbon dioxide, which violates the acid-base balance of the coolant. Increased acidity contributes to increasing the corrosive effect on the elements of the heating system, which can lead to a significant reduction in their service life.

In addition, chemical processes that occur under the influence of high temperatures cause deposits of limestone sediments on the walls of pipes and radiators, creating a dense deposit. As a result, the tube clearance decreases, the characteristics of the heating system change, it works with less impact. A large amount of calcareous plaque can completely clog the pipes, they must be cleaned or even completely replaced.


The presence of air in an autonomous heating system may indicate processes that contribute to the formation of sediment and clogging of the heating circuit pipes

If the heating circuit is switched on circulation pump, the presence of air in the system can be detrimental to its operation. Bearings of this device are designed for permanent residence in the aquatic environment. If air gets into the pump, the bearing will operate in dry running mode, which will cause it to overheat and break.

How they appear

The reasons for the appearance of air are many, completely avoiding this phenomenon is quite difficult. And still, it is necessary to study the factors, under the influence of which in the heating system are formed air jams, in order to minimize their impact on the system. Most often the air penetrates into the system:

  • if the heating was originally installed incorrectly;
  • if the rules for filling the heating circuit with water are not respected;
  • if the integrity of the connection between the individual components of the system is impaired;
  • when there are no or incorrectly used air exhaust devices in the system;
  • after carrying out repair work;
  • when recovering the lost volume of the coolant with the help of cold water.

Incorrect installation of the heating system leads to its airing in cases where pipes are laid with irregular slopes, form loops, etc. It is best to trace such areas at the design stage autonomous heating.

Filling the circuit with water should be carried out according to the principle: the greater the volume of the coolant, the lower the rate of its entry into the system. If the water flows too fast, in certain areas it can become a spontaneous version of the water seal, preventing the natural process of displacing air from the circuit.

In places where pipes and radiators are connected, leaks often occur. Sometimes the crack is so small that the water that flows out of it almost immediately evaporates. The hole remains unnoticed, and through it gradually penetrates the air, which replaces the lost volume of water.


A small gap, through which water flows, can cause air to enter the heating circuit and form an air cork

Since in some way the contour can still be airborne, in the design of heating, it is necessary to provide for the installation of special devices designed to discharge air from the heating system. If such deaerators are already available, but do not give the desired effect, it is possible that some of them are broken and require replacement.

It also happens that the devices for removing air are inefficient due to their incorrect installation or insufficient number. Inevitably, air enters the system after its repair. In this case, it will be necessary to carry out the activities for airing.


Dissolved in water, air enters the heating system during filling the circuit. When heated, it is released in the form of small bubbles, from which an air cork is formed

If a part of the coolant volume is lost, it must be replenished. Fresh water, in contrast to what is already in the system, contains a certain amount of dissolved air in it. When heated, it is released in the form of small bubbles and accumulates, forming plugs. If a fresh coolant is added to the system, after some time it will not hurt to make sure that it is not airborne anywhere.

Methods for removing air from the system

So, in order to avoid air heating, it is necessary to correctly design and install it, clean it and fill it with coolant without unnecessary haste. And even thus one or more air plugs can still appear in the system. What to do in this case? The procedure of operations depends to a large extent on the design features of the heating system.


Automatic air vents are small devices that should be installed in places where air accumulation is most likely, for example, when turning a pipe

In circuits with natural circulation of the coolant at top wiring  The air is removed through an open expansion tank. When installing such a system, the supply line is installed in such a way that it rises vertically to the tank. The container for the coolant is placed at the highest point of the system, which ensures the natural progress of the liquid along the heating circuit.

The return line should also be installed with a slope that facilitates the natural movement of the coolant flow. If the system is mounted correctly, the air inside the circuit will gradually be displaced hot water  Up and leave the pipeline through the freely communicating with the atmosphere of the expansion tank.

The scheme of air removal from circuits with forced circulation differs from the previous type. At the top of such a system, an open expansion tank is installed, and a closed expansion tank is installed before the boiler inlet. In such a system, the supply line must not be inclined, since the transfer of the coolant is stimulated by the pump and the devices for the discharge of airlock are used differently.

To remove air from the system, there are special automatic air vents installed at the highest points of the system and at the corners of the pipeline. To remove plugs from radiators, use Mayevsky cranes. In the same way, air from the heating circuit with natural circulation is removed, but when lower wiring  pipes.

When proper installation  The procedure for removing unnecessary air from the system is very simple, it reduces to opening the corresponding valves and closing them after the air plugs formed in the heating system have left. Automatic air vents do not need to be opened at all. They work when the pressure changes.

Heating circuits closed type  supplemented with automatic air vents without fail. They are installed throughout the circuit at certain points, which allows you to remove the air plug from the loop locally, without waiting for the air to move to the top of the system. This scheme is called the multi-stage de-aeration system.


To open the Maevsky crane, use a special key or a conventional screwdriver. The air is released until the water flows from the tap

The idea is to allow air to be vented to each part of the heating circuit. Usually, each radiator is provided with a manual air-handling device, for example, a Mayevsky crane. If the radiator is hot from below and while its upper part remains cold, then the accumulated air must be removed from it.


This diagram shows the arrangement of a separator for air. This device allows you to remove from the heating circuit not only air, but also pollution (+)

To do this, you will need a key or a screwdriver, as well as a water collecting tank and a rag for the floor. With the help of tools, the Maevsky crane is opened and the container is put under it. The air comes out with a characteristic hiss. When the plug is removed, water from the Mayevsky tap will flow. Now the crane can be closed. In most cases, this simple procedure allows to restore the uniform distribution of the coolant throughout the radiator.

Automatic air outlets are of a horizontal and vertical type. They are installed in places where the probability of air cork formation is greatest. These may be areas where the heating pipe makes a turn, a loop, or the like. Air heating is more characteristic for the upper floors of the building, therefore special attention must be paid to the installation of air venting devices.


This diagram shows the locations of the devices for venting air from the heating system: an automatic air vent and a Mayevsky crane

When using automatic air vents, it is important to monitor the level of pressure in the system. In addition, such devices have increased sensitivity to contamination. To extend the life of the automatic air vent, good filters, as well as regularly flushing the heating circuit.


Automatic devices for air removal are mandatory for the installation of closed-type heating systems. Their installation allows you to remove air jams quickly and without human intervention

To determine the place in which the air has accumulated, radiators and pipes are simply felt for a start. Where the heating temperature is noticeably lower, there is usually an air lock. Another way to identify the airborne place is by tapping the contour. Use a small metal object, which is applied neatly. In places of air accumulation, the sound will be more sonorous.

Sometimes for a natural removal of excess air from the heating circuit it is sufficient to heat the coolant sufficiently. High temperature stimulates the process of air release and its progress through the system. It is allowed to heat water in the heating system to 100 degrees.

If the formation of air jams is observed in the system again and again, all joints should be examined for leaks. Near the place of formation of the airlock, there will almost certainly be found a small gap, from which water flows imperceptibly and into which air bubbles leak. Fixing such a crack or crack will solve the problem.


If even after bleeding air through the Maevsky crane the radiator warms up unevenly, it is possible that the device should be removed and washed or replaced with a new one

Aluminum radiators are considered to be the most vulnerable for the appearance of air congestion. The interaction of the hot coolant with the material of the device causes the development of corrosive processes, which are accompanied by the release of gaseous substances. If the stiffness of such a radiator is observed again and again, it makes sense to replace it with a more modern instrument with an internal anticorrosion coating.

Filling the heating circuit with coolant

In order for the heating system to work properly, it should be washed and then refilled with water. Often, it is at this stage that air is sucked into the circuit. This is due to incorrect actions during the filling of the contour. In particular, air can be captured by a too rapid flow of water, as mentioned earlier.


The scheme of the expansion tank of the open heating circuit makes it possible to form an idea of ​​the order of filling of such a system with the heat carrier after washing

In addition, the correct filling of the contour also contributes to a faster removal of that part of the air masses that are dissolved in the coolant. For starters, it makes sense to consider an example of filling an open heating system at the very top of which an expansion tank is located.

Fill the coolant with such a circuit, starting with the lowest part of it. For these purposes, a shut-off valve is installed in the system below, through which tap water is supplied to the system. In a correctly arranged expansion tank  There is a special branch pipe, which protects it from overflow.

This hose should be put on a hose so long that its second end is brought to the site and is out of the house. Before starting the filling of the system, take care of the boiler. It is recommended to disconnect it from the system for this time, so that the protective modules of this unit do not work.

Once these preparatory steps are completed, you can start filling the outline. The tap in the lower part of the circuit, through which tap water enters, is opened in such a way that the water fills the pipes very slowly. The recommended flow rate should be about three times less than the maximum possible. This means that the valve should not be turned completely, but only one third of the tube clearance.

Such a slow filling is continued until the water flows through the overflow hose output to the outside. After that, the water tap should be closed. Now it is necessary to pass through the whole system and on each radiator open the Maevsky crane in order to release the air.

Then you can connect the boiler to the heating system again. These cranes are also recommended to open very slowly. During the filling of the boiler with the coolant, you can hear the hiss, which is emitted by the air release safety valve. This is normal. After that, the system again needs to add more water at the same slow rate. The expansion tank must be filled approximately 60-70%.

After this, it is necessary to check the operation of the heating system. The boiler is switched on and heated by the heating system. The radiators and pipes are then examined to identify places where there is no heating or is insufficient. Insufficient warming indicates the presence of air in the heating batteries, it is necessary to again carry out its bleeding through the cranes of the Mayevsky.

If the procedure for filling the heating circuit with the coolant was successful, do not relax. For at least a week, the system should be monitored closely, monitor the water level in the expansion tank, and check the condition of the pipes and radiators. This will quickly solve the problems that have arisen.

Similarly, the filling of the closed-type systems with the coolant is performed. Water should also be fed into the system at a low speed through a special tap. But in such systems, the important thing is to control the pressure. When it reaches a level of two bars, you should turn off the water and drain the air from all the radiators through the Mayevsky cranes.

The pressure in the system will begin to decrease. It is necessary to add a little coolant to the circuit in order to maintain the pressure at the level of two bars. Performing both these operations alone is difficult. Therefore, it is recommended to fill the closed loop with the assistant. While one drains the air from the radiators, his partner controls the level of pressure in the system and immediately corrects it. Collaboration will improve the quality of this type of work and shorten their time.

Useful video on air traffic jams

Here is the process of removing excess air from the radiator with the help of the Mayevsky crane:

About how to bleed from the heating circuit air that does not go through the air vent, the following video narrates:

Air entering a heating system reduces the efficiency of its operation and can cause damage to certain parts. In order to successfully cope with this problem, it is necessary to properly perform the installation of heating from the beginning or correct existing flaws. In addition, it is necessary to install air vent devices and observe the rules for the operation of heating systems.

Owners of apartment blocks of flats and all who have central heating have often faced the problem of air congestion in heating systems. This is manifested in the appearance of various noises, poor heating of batteries and corrosion of metal parts.

It is characteristic that even from an ideally designed and executed system central heating  periodically need to bleed air. Its appearance inside is possible not only because of the possible poor integrity of the system, but also for other reasons.

Let's consider the reasons for the appearance of air jams:

  1. In case of repair of heating.
  2. In the apartments it is rather difficult to air the pipes immediately by filling them with water.
  3. This problem is often found in warm floors, in cases where their lines are made, not quite horizontally.
  4. The appearance of gas in water is always associated with an increase in its temperature. In autonomous heating systems, there is no time for air, however, if the coolant is constantly updated, the problem will appear again and again.

Identify the problem

To identify air congestion in heating, you need:

  • try to touch the battery, and in the case where part of the surface is cold or lukewarm, this will mean the air is there in the system;
  • in the event that the temperature in the room has decreased without any reason;
  • if you hear a gurgling in the radiator.

To check whether the system needs to be vented very simply by tapping a metal object over the top of the battery, then, at the same time, do it in its lower part. In the place where the cork appears, the sound will be more sonorous.

Consequences of heating blown-up

If the cork is not dropped in time, prolonged contact with oxygen will adversely affect the metal, and it can become covered with scale, and destruction begins.  In addition, the airflow of the system affects the circulation of water, as a result of which some places overheat and others heat slightly.

Exist different ways  for gas bleeding, and priority should be given to one or the other depending on the choice of coolant. And also, from the way of water circulation in the system: naturally or compulsorily.

As a result, an air valve is used, which allows to drain the air stopper from the radiator or the Maevsky crane.

How can I let the air out

Systems with forced circulation use a small air collector at the top for bleeding. However, you can only bleed if the feed pipe is at an angle in the direction of the coolant movement.

In this case, the air plugs that rise with it will come out through a series of special valves.

To date, the use of manual and automatic methods is more often used to drain air and water in the system. Hand-held devices (Maevsky cranes) are distinguished by their compact dimensions

It should be taken into account: bleed can only be after the coolant has completely cooled.

Features of automatic air separators

In order to conduct air bleeding in closed-type heating systems, such as a warm floor in a house, there is no need for human participation.

High performance does not reduce the strong sensitivity to impurities in the coolant, so they are installed together with filters. Filters are installed both on the flow line and on the return. In order to most effectively remove air, their design has stages, which allows you to remove oxygen from each group of devices.

If the pipes have been mounted in a private house slightly at an angle in the direction of water movement - the drain mechanism allows air heating with a high flow rate of the coolant, and increases the pressure.

Removing air through the spill in aluminum, bimetallic and cast-iron batteries

Advantages of aluminum batteries are affordable price and excellent thermal conductivity. But aluminum is not a very good material for heating, thanks to its ability to react and release hydrogen.

When such a battery is inflated, the Mayevsky crane will help solve the problem of dumping air surplus. In order to expel hydrogen from the inside, such batteries are covered with a special film, but this is enough only for a while, and then the gas does not disappear.

Bimetallic radiators are another excellent invention. Where the internal parts touch the water, another metal is used, and the fins are made of aluminum. In cases where a thermostat is installed on the radiator, when you open it, you can pump the system and release oxygen. Bending of such radiators is similar to other varieties.

Cast-iron batteries are also ventilated through the Maevsky crane or automatic air vent, so you can clean the cork in the pipes.

The use of the Mayevsky crane

The device is very popular due to its simplicity. If the system is airy, it helps to purge air surplus in the heating pipe. The Maevsky crane is a compact, comfortable air vent, which is mounted on the side of the battery.  When the pipes are inflated, you should take a screwdriver and a small container, because in addition to the discharge of air will drain a little water.

It is important to know:  air reduces the life of the water pump!

Use a screwdriver to unscrew the tap and replace the container. Further, if the cause of the air-blasting occurred, you will hear a hiss, after which the air will begin to exit with drops of water through the air ducts. Completely deflated air will be when a small trickle of water flows through the discharger.  This will increase the life of the boiler. While the system pushes the gas blower, water drops may appear.

Using an automatic air vent

For simplicity of bleeding it is possible to install this device, especially on bimetal batteries. It has a float that tightly closes the vent hole when there is water in the system. In the event of air ingress, the float drops and releases it outward.

However, in order for the devices to work properly, it is recommended to use only very clean water, which is practically not found in heating systems. Therefore, you need to put filters.

Before this it is necessary, which takes a lot of time. However, even this can not guarantee you the correct operation of the mechanism, since sometimes it will need to be cleaned.

Note:  there are times when you need to shake the battery for a little while. In the bottom of the battery, you can install a conventional tap with water in the water pipe. If you need to release air, open the tap and start the water. This allows you to drive it through the system, and pushes air through the system of air outlets.

If the heating installation sites have the wrong bias, you can put additional air outlets.

In the water supply system, the appearance of air is also possible, which negatively affects its operation: pipes and adapters are destroyed, air in the pipes can provoke a hydraulic shock, cracks appear and the pipe bursts. Help get rid of air in the water supply system ball valves, valves, automatic air vent valves, valves Maevsky.

See a video in which the expert tells how to determine the air volume of the system and how to release air from the batteries: