How to fill the heating system. How to fill water in an open and closed heating system?

How to fill the water heating system before its first start? How to do this after a reset for the period of repair work, if the start of heating in the coming weeks is not planned? Let's analyze several scenarios that a representative of the service organization or the owner of the house may face.

Time to fill and time to reset

Let's start with the solution of one important question: when and for what the heating system is reset and what consequences will cause its dehumidification?

The most obvious case is repair work.  House heating can be reset for repair and replacement of stop valves, regular and emergency replacement of sections of risers and bottles.

In addition, often the heating system is completely discharged for the summer. Why? The fact is that cast iron radiators have one unpleasant feature: over time, the inter-sectional gaskets made of paronite (heat-resistant rubber) lose their already small elasticity.

When the radiator is hot - the heated sections slightly expand and compress the gaskets; but when the temperature drops, the joint of the adjacent sections begins to flow. After a dozen or more years of operation, the phenomenon takes on such a massive character that it eliminates all leaks as prescribed by the instruction - by overloading the radiators and replacing the gaskets - it becomes unrealistic.

Then the housingmen predictably follow the path of least resistance - they reset the heating after the end of the heating season.

What is it, in fact, bad?

• When you restart, you have to get rid of air congestion.  To do this, air cocks are installed in the upper points of the risers; However, there are often situations when the residents of the upper flats are absent, and there is no possibility to bleed the air.

It is useful: if in a house with bottom filling radiators are installed only on one of the twin risers, it is not difficult to get rid of the air plug by switching the riser to a reset. Of course, water is discharged from the so-called idle (without radiators) riser.

• Moisture in combination with air in pipes and steel radiators sharply accelerate their corrosion.  The period of trouble-free operation of the heating system is reduced at times.

Is it necessary to fill the heating system of a private house outside the heating season?

Everything depends on two factors:

1. Material pipes and radiators.  Corrosion-unstable steel makes draining the contour for a long time a bad idea. But aluminum radiators in combination with polymeric or metal-polymer pipes of a humid atmosphere are not afraid.
2. The volume of water in the circuit.  If it is a lot - to dump a large amount of water and flood it again at start-up is simply unprofitable: all private houses have long paid water for the meter. However, the volume of the coolant rarely goes to cubic meters.

Ways of filling

Starting the apartment building system

The procedure for the bottom filling house will be as follows:

1. When the house latch is closed on the supply, we open the discharge on the supply line. Reset on the return is closed.
2. SLOWLY open the latch on return pipeline. If you do this quickly, there is a possibility of a hammer with the most unpleasant consequences, up to the detachment of the radiators.
3. We are waiting until water comes out of the discharge without air.
4. We overlap the reset and open the latch on the feed.
5. We bleed air from the circuits of access heating, office space and so on - in short, wherever there is access.

Please note: in case of top filling, the procedure is much easier. It is sufficient to slowly open both latches with closed dumps, climb to the attic and bleed air from the vent on the expansion tank.

Launch of a gravitational open heating system

Are you waiting for the difficulties? They are not expected: just pour a few buckets of water into the open expansion tank. Water should appear on its bottom. Do not try to fill it with a margin, in order to replenish the coolant less often: when heated, the water will increase in volume and will pour into the floor of the attic.

Of course, if the heating circuit is assembled by yourself and filled for the first time, it is worthwhile to go through and look through all threaded and welded joints for leaks.

Start of closed heating system

What is the difference between a closed system with forced circulation from the point of view of its filling with a coolant?

1. Excessive pressure is necessary for the operation of the boiler and the circulation pump. Usually, its recommended value is 1.5 kgf / cm2.
2. Before starting in normal mode, it is recommended to press the heating system one and a half times more than the pressure. This operation is especially important for systems with a water-heated floor: it will be buried in the screed where the repair work ... let's say so, is difficult.

How to create the necessary pressure in the circuit?

If there is a central water supply in the house, the problem is solved very simply: for the crimping, the system is filled through a jumper with a water pipe with a continuous pressure control on the manometer. After crimping and checking for leaks, excess water is discharged through any valve or air vent.

How to fill the heating system with water if the source of water is a well or a river? Or in the case when the system is filled with ethylene glycol or other non-freezing coolant?

Regularly in such cases, a special pump is used to fill the heating system and crimping - manual or electric. It is connected to the circuit through the valve; After the required overpressure is created, the valve closes.

In the photo there is a manual pressure test pump.

Can I do without a pump?

Recall: 1.5 atmosphere of excess pressure corresponds to 15 meters of water column. The obvious and simplest solution is to connect a conventional reinforced garden hose to the dump valve, raise its second end by a half dozen meters and pour it with water through the funnel. This option is easy to implement if the house is on a slope or next to there are tall trees.

Finally, the expansion tank can solve the problem. Its main function is to contain the excess heat carrier when it is expanded. Water is practically incompressible, and reinforced plastic or metal pipes are not very elastic.

The membrane expansion tank is a container that is divided by a rubber elastic partition into two parts. One of them is intended for a coolant, the second contains air. All the tanks are equipped with a nipple, allowing you to adjust the pressure in it by bleeding excess air or by pumping it with an ordinary bicycle pump.

The solution will be simple:

• We bleed air from the tank, turning the nipple.  Expansion tanks are supplied with excess pressure just 1.5 atmospheres.
• Fill the system with water.  The tank is mounted with a thread for connecting upwards, therefore, the own weight will help to overcome the elasticity of the membrane to the heat carrier.

Please note: it is not necessary to completely fill the tank with water. The final amount of air in it should be equal to about one tenth of the total volume of the heat carrier, otherwise the expansion tank will simply not perform its basic function - to contain the excess of heated water.

• With a bicycle pump we pump air through the nipple, controlling the pressure by a manometer.

The price of a large volume expansion tank is relatively large, but we do not lose anything: it is in any case necessary for the normal operation of a closed heating system.

Determination of the volume of coolant

If in apartment house  the total amount of coolant is rarely interesting to someone, then in a private house to know it is not just useful - it is necessary. What for?

• As already mentioned, the volume of the expansion tank is calculated based on the volume of the system. If it turns out to be more than necessary, it does not threaten anything, except for the loss of a certain amount of money; but if the volume is less than the need for it - the coolant will be constantly ejected through the insulating loop from the rupture safety valve.
• If you do not live permanently in the a country house, maintain a constant temperature in it is inexpedient, and in the case of a solid fuel boiler - it is simply impossible. However, just leaving the house with water heating to freeze means to doom yourself to replace pipes and batteries: they will be ripped apart by ice.

The problem is solved using non-freezing coolants, which cost about 50-70 rubles per liter. Accordingly, before buying it is better to know exactly the required volume.

The way to measure the volume of a circuit without resorting to complex formulas and without looking for technical documentation for used radiators is two.

• If the system is filled through a jumper with a water pipe - with resetting the heating, close all the taps in the house and fill the whole system, bleeding the air. The water meter will show you the expended volume with acceptable accuracy.

• An alternative method is to simply merge the system through a resettable, using as a gauge any container with a known volume. Do not forget to open the air vents on all the heaters, otherwise a significant part of the water will hang in the circuit.

Conclusion

The article presents practical experience in filling and crimping heating systems. As recommended by manufacturers of heating equipment - you can learn from the video at the end of the article. Warm winters!

After installing a new heating system for the first time in it pour water specialists. They check the tightness of the system, the correct connection and operation of the boiler equipment. You can peek and learn how to fill water in the heating system, because in the future you may need to perform the procedure yourself.

Periodically, it is necessary to fill the heating medium with any heating system. It is troublesome, and expensive each time to call specialists. Therefore, you have to manage this work on your own. We will consider how to fill the heating system with water so that all the conditions of a functioning functioning are met.

In such heating systems, water circulates naturally (not under pressure). At their upper point, an expansion tank is installed in which the coolant is in contact with air. In this capacity comes excess water, expanding when heated. The air from the system also descends here. It is in the tank and pour water, although it can be done through the bottom of the system, if it has a corresponding connector.

We will describe in more detail how correctly to fill water in the heating system, if it is open. Remove the lid from the tank and pour in water using a bucket or hose. The water level in the reservoir is determined by the indicator.

From the top of the tank comes a drain pipe, connected to the sewer system, through which excess fluid is drained.

Pour water into the system to gradually, in batches, giving time for the release of air bubbles. When it ceases to merge into pipes, the system can be considered filled. Now we need to lower the air remaining in the radiators, opening the Mayevsky cranes. Under them put a basin and unscrew the taps. As soon as the water is pouring into the tank, the cranes are spinning. After descent from radiators of air it is necessary to add water in a tank.  When the work is completed, you can turn on the boiler. Now it is clear how to fill the heating system with water, which is open.

Closed Systems

These are systems in which the liquid does not come into contact with air outside the system. Have a pump for forced circulation  water and a surge tank with a membrane. More details about the heating system with pump circulation we already wrote. The tank is a sealed container that is internally divided into two parts by a rubber membrane. In the lower part of it there is a coolant, and in the upper part - air under pressure of one and a half atmosphere. It presses on the membrane, as a result of which a constant pressure of 1.5 atm is set in the system.

We'll tell you how to fill out closed system heating without errors. It is better that the work performed by two people. One will fill the water, and the second will monitor the descent of the air from the pipes. But if this is not possible, you can just turn on the water under a slight pressure. Pipes in this system have a small slope upward from the boiler, to the top point. At this point, install a valve through which air is vented.

Before filling the closed heating system with water, the valve should be opened and replaced with a basin.

Further, the pipes should have a slight slope down to the bottom point. At this point, a tap is installed to remove water from the system. Here there is a branch pipe for pumping water into it (usually located just below the boiler). It is equipped with a non-return valve, which allows water to enter, but prevents its flow out. If a water pipe with a tap is connected to the branch pipe, you simply open it.  If there is no such line, another way is how to fill the heating system: using a flexible hose. It must be connected to a water supply system (for example, to an ordinary tap in the kitchen) and to a branch pipe. The pressure in the water supply system should be slightly higher than the pressure of the heating system.

When the pipes and heating radiators are filled with a coolant, and the water starts draining from the valve at the top of the system, it should be closed. Then you need to drain the air from the batteries (Maevsky cranes). The water is blocked when, after a full descent of air, its pressure on the manometer built into the boiler reaches one and a half atmospheres (or more, if the boiler's passport provides for greater pressure in the system).

In the double-circuit boilers, there is a water heating water make-up module. It contains a water tap. Therefore, there will be no problems with how to fill the heating system of a double-circuit boiler, for it is easy to do. It is enough to open the tap (at the bottom of the boiler). Through it, there will be a filling of the house heating system with water. Although modern boilers are equipped with automatic air-discharge systems, they do not eliminate all air from the system. Therefore, the installation of the valve at its upper point is mandatory.

When starting a gas boiler, another important procedure is performed. Remove the front cover from the boiler, find a cylindrical circulation pump for pumping, which in the middle has a removable cover. Turn on the boiler, set the working temperature on it. The pump starts to gurgle due to the presence of air. It must be eliminated.  To do this, lightly (not completely) unscrew the lid with a screwdriver, until water starts to pour from inside. As soon as this happens, twist it back. Wait 2-3 minutes and repeat the procedure a couple of times. When the operation of the device becomes quiet, the electric ignition will turn on. The boiler will start to supply heat in the operating mode. Once again they look at the pressure in the system, and if necessary, they briefly open the make-up tap.

This completes the filling of the closed heating system with water, and it remains to perform additional debugging. It is that with the help of the control valves on the radiator pipes, it is possible to tighten the heat supply to the batteries that are located near the boiler slightly and to increase its supply to the long radiators. Now there will be no hitching with how to properly fill the closed system of heating with water, and you can do this work yourself quickly and efficiently.

Instead of water

The question arises: what to fill in the heating system of a private house instead of water in order to improve the operational properties of the coolant? Antifreeze is often used for these purposes. It does not freeze even at temperatures below zero degrees.  Due to this property pipes and radiators will not burst if the room is very cold. If there is a desire to use antifreeze, small diameter pipes and panel radiators should be installed to reduce required amount  this coolant (it is much more expensive than water).

In addition, filling the heating system with this liquid is troublesome. It can not be pumped from a water pipe. And when using a hose, some amount of antifreeze will spill. In addition, if the system is closed, it is impossible to fill the coolant through the tank.

The problem is solved like this:

System make-up

In order for the closed heating system to work efficiently, it must maintain a constant working pressure. And it depends on the volume of fluid circulating in the pipes and radiators. Its leaks are inevitable, no matter how tight the knots and the places of their connection. Therefore, a constant replenishment of the heating system of a private home with a coolant is required. It is produced through make-up valves mounted in a place with a minimum fluid pressure (usually before the pump).

These devices come with a mechanical and automatic supply of coolant.  If the house is small, has a low-power heating system, a mechanical valve is enough. In this case, the pressure drops are extinguished using the rubber membrane of the tank. But to prevent an accident, the consumer will have to constantly monitor the pressure in the system. This need is not necessary after installing the automatic valve (if it comes with the boiler, another one is not needed) with a manometer. With this device, there is no question of how to properly fill the heating system with water, without violating the balance of the coolant pressure.

To fill the heating system with water did not cause permanent trouble, it did not take much time, it is necessary to install modern equipment (two-pipe closed system). More details about the two-pipe heating system can be read. We need to approach the filling process responsibly, and then the house will be warm and comfortable for many years.

   Oh sorry! I did not think that it answered. I studied this topic, very exciting for me. I asked my question in a neighboring topic, but so far I have not received adequate advice and answers. Maybe I'll be prompted here ...

Good day! Please tell me how to properly fill and set up a closed heating system. If it does not complicate the sequence of actions. Oblazila all the Internet and everywhere it comes down to filling the system first to 2 bars, bleed the air, add water and lower the pressure to 1-0.5 bar and start heating, and then adjust the Voila pressure, everything should work. And the pressure during heating should fluctuate within 0.5. But ... probably I'm doing something wrong and I can not do it, the second half of the process. I fill everything, let the air out, I turn on the heat and my pressure starts to creep up to 3 on the monometer. It takes a lick to cast and in the end turns out not what you need, at the moment when it's heated to 45 degrees, the boiler starts at 0.6 and the arrow rises to 1.8, and off to the standby mode again drops to 0.6. Only now it came to mind, but in general when cooling down a couple of degrees, the shooter should hesitate?

The system is flooded not so long ago, in March. T. to change the boiler, we have Borinsky AKGV 11,6-1, two-circuit. The maximum overpressure in dHW system, MPa 0.6 (6). In the passport to the boiler does not say how many bars to fill, there is only such information :. "The pressure in the heating system in the operating state of 60-80 degrees should not be more than 1.2 kg / sq. cm." After heating to the set temperature, the boiler turns off and after a couple of minutes it turns on again. The masters who have set the boiler for us have set the temperature at 60 degrees immediately. And it turned out that if the temperature wanted to decrease, the pressure dropped and there was a suspicious bubbling in the pump area. The heating system is on the first floor ( a private house), The Republic of Belarus for 6 liters. Pipes are plastic and aluminum radiators, in the boiler and water system about 45-50 liters.

In this regard, a lot of questions! According to the sequence and correctness of the actions.
  1. When filling the system with water, do you need to periodically turn on the pump?
2. Include heating at what temperature, first to a small one and gradually warm up or immediately to a large one? Or you need to warm up at some temperature .. turn it off.
  3. To drain excess water through radiators or through a pump? When the boiler is switched on for heating or not? Or if everything is properly filled with water it will not be necessary to cast anything, although the water seems to expand? Wherever the brief recommendations were read, the system operates - it was lowered, recharged. But it is not deployed, it is necessary to monitor the pressure on cold or warm water ... it is also not clear when to wait for the system to cool down, or can it be added to heated water?
  4. If the pressure rises from the entry of air into the system, then where does it hide ... when I open the Mayevsky cranes, then the water flows from them, there is an option that it accumulates in the boiler, then how can it be lured out?
  5. What pressure should be at different temperatures?

Honestly admit if it were not for this floating arrow gauge, then the system behaves perfectly, there are no noises in the boiler, the pump works so quietly that one can not even believe that it works, it does not bubble in the pipes.

An important issue that arises after the installation of the heating devices is how to fill the heating system closed type  and put it into operation. The process is simple, although its features cause typical difficulties for ordinary users. These include the selection of the injection point and the value of the coolant pressure.

Open and closed heating systems: filling principle

The open system is equipped with an expansion tank at its top. The surface of the liquid-coolant in it directly comes into contact with atmospheric air. The closed system is equipped with a membrane expansion tank, hermetically sealed from the atmosphere.

Heating systems of any type can be filled in the following way:

• tap water supplied to the lower point of the system - through the make-up valve;
• water (distilled) or antifreeze, supplying liquid from the tank (well, pond):
• by pouring manually and / or by means of a pump to the upper point (choke under the air vent or through an open expansion tank);
• pumping by the pump through the bottom point - the make-up input.

Many homeowners know the simplest (and worst!) Way to fill open systems through the expansion tank. Water / antifreeze is poured in with interruptions to release air. Repeat this method in closed systems, using the nozzles of the upper air vents, is not recommended. Air, initially filling the system, passes up through the layer of water being poured, dissolving in it. Air jams that prevent water flow through pipes and radiators will be guaranteed to you.

Then how to fill the closed type heating system? The recommended way to fill any heating system is to supply liquid under pressure (from a water pipe or a tank through a pump) through the lower make-up valve.

When the coolant is filled

There are only two situations that require this technological operation:

• start of heating in operation (at the beginning of the heating season);
• restart after repairs.

Typically, the heat carrier water is drained in late spring for two reasons:

1. Water is inevitably contaminated by corrosion products (inside radiators, metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes  they are not affected). Leaving the old water for a new season, you risk breaking the circulation pump with solid contaminants.
2. Unsold flooded systems of country houses can be "thawed" when there is a sudden cold snap - such cases are not uncommon.
   In this sense, coolant-antifreeze is preferred. Qualitative composition has high anticorrosive properties, increasing the "interlining" interval to 5-6 years. There are cases of uninterrupted operation of heating on the same volume of antifreeze 15-17 years. Low-quality antifreeze is recommended to drain after 2-3 years.

Filling technology: where to deliver the coolant

The necessary means are the capacity and the pump that creates the required pressure of liquid coolant  . Completely suitable submersible type "Gnome" or "Kid" (popular with gardeners who use them for irrigation sites located above water levels). There is evidence of successful filling of closed systems by hand pumps - from spray crops used for spraying protective solutions to specialized hand pumps used for pumping barrels of motor fuels or liquid chemical products. Any heating scheme can be successfully filled by monitoring the pressure on the manometer.

The first operation is to select the liquid entry point. If the pressure created by the pump raises the liquid to the top of the system, it is necessary to connect at the lowest point of the boiler room - the supply pipe with the coolant cut in front of the boiler into the "return". In addition to the feed input, a separate drain outlet (two different system nodes) is needed. The first is equipped with a valve (ball valve) and check valve, the second - only a valve (ball valve). If the lowest point of the system is a drainage connection of water from the boiler, it is possible to lower / fill the system through it with water. Since the boiler discharge (generally behind the discharge) is not installed check valve, any shutdown of the pump will cause leakage of the injected liquid - you need to quickly close the valve before the union.

We fill the system from below

So, back to the injection of liquid into the system. We use the capacity of a suitable volume (a plastic barrel with a volume of 200 l is well suited). We lower the pump into it, creating the pressure required for liquid injection not exceeding 1.5 atm (typical value in the range 1-1.2 atm). Such pressure requires the creation of a pump with a pressure of 15 m (for a submerged "Baby" it reaches 40 m).

Filling the barrel with water, we start the pump, keeping in mind the level of the liquid, which must be located above its inlet nozzle to prevent "zavozdushivaniya." The level decreases - we add water. The antifreeze should be pumped in from a container of a smaller volume (buckets), so as not to immerse the body submersible pump  (and then do not wash) - it is enough to immerse the inlet branch pipe. Fill antifreeze will often, disconnecting periodically the pump.

The filling of the system is carried out with open Mayevsky cranes on installed radiators  with pre-assembled containers for collecting water. When the liquid goes from all the air vents, close the valves, continuing the injection process.

We control the pressure by the manometer (the boiler device is suitable). When its value exceeds the hydrostatic pressure, which is equal to the pressure in the liquid column from the bottom to the top of the system (height of 5 m gives a static pressure of 0.5 atm), we continue to fill the system, monitoring the manometer when the pressure reaches the required value.

Fill the system, turn off the pump, open the air valves (the pressure will inevitably fall), then pumped the water. The process is repeated several times, displacing air bubbles.

Finish the completion by inspecting the system for leaks. After the pump is turned off in the hose connected to the outlet, the liquid is pressurized. If antifreeze was pumped in, first disconnect the hose from the inlet of the pump and drain the liquid into the container, trying not to pour the body of the mechanism.

How to fill the closed-type heating system correctly

If there is no electric pump, then filling the system, which has a difference in the heights of the bottom and top points of 10 m, by means of hand pump is a rather tedious procedure. In this case, the closed system can be filled through the upper point (for example, the connection of the automatic air vent) by gravity with an open drain valve at the lowest point before the outflow of water from it. The drain cock is closed and we have a static pressure equal to the pressure in the liquid column to the upper point (at 10 m, the pressure will be 1 atm).

Now we need to raise the pressure to the calculated level not exceeding 1.5 atm. To any choke of the system we connect through ball valve  The usual watering hose is about 1.5 meters long. We come up with an easy-detachable adapter for the hose of an ordinary automobile pump with a manometer. Fill the rectified hose with water, connect the pump via the adapter and let the water flow from the hose into the system. We overlap the ball valve. It is enough 3-5 repetitions of the process to increase the initial static pressure at any point of the system by 0.5 atm. Avoid inflating air into it.

Selecting the pressure values ​​in the system and the expansion tank

The higher the operating pressure of the coolant, the lower the probability of air entering the system. Remember to limit the operating pressure to the maximum permissible value for the boiler. If during filling the system a static pressure of 1.5 atm (15 m of water column) was reached, then the circulation pump presses 6 m of water. Art. At the boiler inlet, a pressure of 15 + 6 = 21 m of water column will be created.

Some types of boilers have an operating pressure of the order of 2 atm = 20 m of water. Be careful not to overload the boiler heat exchanger. high pressure  coolant!

Membrane Expansion Tank  comes with the factory setting pressure of inert gas (nitrogen) in the gas cavity. Its common value is 1.5 atm (or bar, which is almost the same). This level can be raised by pumping air into the gas cavity with a hand pump.

Initially, the internal volume of the tank is completely occupied by nitrogen, the membrane is pressed against the body by gas. That is why it is customary to fill closed systems up to a pressure level of no more than 1.5 atm (maximum 1.6 atm). Then setting the expansion tank to the "return" before the circulation pump, we will not get a change in its internal volume - the membrane will remain stationary. Heating the coolant will increase its pressure, the membrane will move away from the tank body and compress nitrogen. The gas pressure will rise, balancing the pressure of the coolant at a new static level.

Filling the system to a pressure of 2 atm will allow the cold heat carrier to immediately press the membrane, which will compress nitrogen also to a pressure of 2 atm. Heating water from 0 ° C to 100 ° C increases its volume by 4.33%. The additional volume of liquid must enter the expansion tank. A large volume of the heat-transfer medium in the system gives a large increment in heating. Too large initial pressure of the cold coolant will immediately consume the capacity of the expansion tank, it will not be enough to receive excess of heated water (antifreeze). Therefore it is important to fill the system up to the correct level of the coolant pressure. Filling the system with antifreeze, you need to remember about its greater than that of water, the coefficient of thermal expansion, which requires the installation of a larger expansion tank.

Conclusion

Filling of closed heating systems is not just a standard final operation before commissioning. Correct or incorrect performance of this stage can seriously affect the performance of the system, in the worst case even disable it. Compliance with filling technology is the key to obtaining a stable heating.

Related materials.

Even a minor repair of one of the radiators or heating pipes is inevitably associated with a complete drain of the coolant from the heating system. After the work is completed, the circuit must be filled with water. The question arises - how to start heating correctly? What temperature should water be, with what speed to fill the liquid? How to prepare and wash the home heating network? It is better, if the work will be done by masters, - many factors will have to be taken into account.

Types of heating systems in private houses

For Residents apartment buildings  it is not necessary to start an independent heating system. Before the start of the repair, specialists will warn about the work of all neighbors and salt the liquid from the whole riser. The services that serve the communications will also be filled with the filling.

In a private house, heating can be installed in accordance with one of 2 standard schemes:

1. Open.

1. Closed.

An open network, also called gravitational, is built without mounting circulating pumps, which distill the coolant inside the network. Circulation of the liquid is carried out by natural processes: hot water rises, where in the expansion tank installed at the top point, the carrier contacts the air. Cooled water descends to the lower part of the circuit, to the boiler, and is supplied for warming up.

Open systems are extremely rare. Meet the "classics" can only be found in houses where old boilers, metal pipes and cast-iron radiators are used for heating. The volume of coolant in these types of heating networks is large, respectively, the energy consumption is not economical.

Closed circuits are heating with the connection of pumping equipment, which ensures a constant circulation of hot water inside the system. Consumption of energy (gas or electricity) is minimal, because the volume of liquid is only a few tens of liters. Due to the constant movement of water, the boiler is switched on only for heating the coolant to a specified temperature.

Coolant Replacement: Causes and Frequency of Conducting

Replacement of water in the closed and open heating circuit is carried out:

• During the first start of heating.

After installation, fill and start the system

• After seasonal draining.

• When starting after repair work.

Regular replenishment of the fluid is required during operation, if no draining has taken place after the heating season.

Why drain water from a home system

The question to which there is no unambiguous answer is whether it is necessary to dry the circuit every year after the end of the heating season? The solution depends on the type, age and material of the manufacture of the main elements - pipes and radiators, as well as the total volume of the liquid.

Each type has its own carrier frequency

Most often dry for the summer systems with old cast iron radiators. The reason - the appearance of leaks after turning off the boilers. The old fins of cast iron are interconnected by threaded joints with old gaskets. When there is hot water inside the batteries, the seals expand, ensuring a tight seal at the seams.

After the water has cooled down, the material from which the gaskets are made naturally contracts, and leakage begins at the junction of the ribs. But long simple old radiators without water are fraught with accelerated corrosion, rust inside the radiator and old pipes in a dry environment is showered, and can disable a whole riser.

In closed new circuits, filling the heating system is not a costly process. But completely draining the fluid every year is not recommended - this is not necessary.

Periodicity of replacement and refilling of liquid in the heating system

How often should I change the liquid in the heating system? A few general rules:

• In the open type contours of private houses, it is enough simply to add water if the system is hermetic, without subjecting old communications to stress checks in the form of long dry downtime. Replacement is only necessary in case of emergency repair or preventive sealing, after flushing.

The appearance of leaks - it is necessary to drain the water and carry out repairs

• Closed heating systems  need preventive washing and changing the coolant after a few years.

The frequency of filling with a new liquid depends on the characteristics of the water, the life of the synthetic coolant, the overall state of the system. If the end points are strongly inflated, it is recommended to identify the cause - to find the leakage spot and check the tightness of the heating network. Usually, water is replaced every few seasons.

Choice of coolant: what to fill in the home system

Before you pour new liquid into the closed-type heating system, you must select the coolant. There are only 3 options:

1. Water.

1. Synthetic carrier.

Antifreeze for home systems

Important! Water can be used in any house heating system, if part of the circuit does not come into contact with cold outside air. If the boiler house is outside the house, the pipes are laid in the ground without thermal insulation, it is necessary to use non-freezing liquids - when the boiler is turned off, the frozen water will lead to the cracking of the pipes.

Is it possible to fill the system with tap water

Do not seek to save by pouring tap water into the new system. Tap water is "enriched" not only with chlorine, which, when heated, adversely affects the surfaces with which it comes into contact. Under the influence of temperature, which can reach 60 - 80 °, on the inner walls of pipes, connectors, radiators begins to form a raid. Deposits resemble scales inside an electric kettle with the same consequences: solid deposits eventually overlap the internal lumens. As a result, a part of the radiators can remain cold even at a high temperature of the carrier.

Deposits in the pipe using tap water

In addition to troubles with a water stone forming a layer of plaque on the walls of pipes, the use of ordinary tap water can provoke problems arising from chemical reactions occurring in the carrier during heating. Aggressive impurities do not have the best effect on the condition of the coating inside the radiators, corrode seals, accelerate corrosion processes.

Conclusion - with a small volume of liquid, there is no point in saving. In a closed-type heating system, it is better to pour distilled water.

Distilled water with surfactants and additives for heating

Benefits:

• Low cost.

• Reduced viscosity, good fluidity.

• Absence of impurities.

• Lack of chlorine.

• Increased boiling temperature.

Distillate as a coolant has a beneficial effect on the operation of the entire system: purified water warms up more quickly, reduces the load on pumping equipment, there is no risk of formation of clogging inside the pipes, deposits on internal walls appear.

Synthetic coolants: application features

There are ready-made solutions and concentrates on the basis of:

• Propylene glycol.

• Ethylene glycol.

• Glycerol.

Concentrate for home use

Despite the non-flawless performance of ethylene glycol, solutions on its basis should not be filled in the home heating network - the substance is hazardous to health.

To be guided at purchase costs not on the price, and on a degree of concentration of an active substance. Different grades of coolant are diluted in a certain proportion. Before preparing the solution, be sure to read the instructions for reconstitution.

Synthetic media degrades with time, so before you throw the can from the concentrate, find information about the period of use and mark it with a marker near the boiler or the inlet nozzle so as not to forget to replace the coolant in time.

Replacing the coolant in a standard indoor home heating network

The launch of a heating system in a private house with water filling is carried out using sophisticated technology. For work it is necessary to buy or lend special equipment and follow instructions. If you are not sure of the integrity of the circuit, there are visible damage to the elements, be sure to call a specialist.

Preparatory stage: what will be required to work

Before filling the heating system in a private house, determine the way the liquid is poured into the circuit. There are 4 options for resolving the issue:

1. Networks equipped with valve automatics are filled without external intervention. Principle - when the pressure level falls within the circuit, the valve automatically opens and filling occurs until the optimum operating pressure is reached.

Heating circuit make-up unit

1. Heating with a modern double-circuit boiler is filled from water pipe: the systems are connected.

1. The circuit with an expansion diaphragm tank is easier to fill through the pipes where the expander is located, having previously dismantled the tank.

1. With the help of a special supercharger - a pump for pumping water into the heating system, which is connected to the incoming branch pipe.

From the tools you will need the keys of the appropriate diameter for dismantling the tank, the pump, if you plan to fill the distillate, sealing tape for the connections.
  In case the question is solved, how to start heating in a private house after idle time, or it is necessary to replace an old carrier, you will have to purchase a special washing agent.

Checking for leaks: how to make crimping

The old network must be checked for leaks and no leakage. Also, a mandatory check is made at the first start-up of heating. Do not neglect the stage of crimping, especially if the house has areas with floor heating, which will be under the screed and decorative coating. Eliminate the leak after the repair is expensive and difficult.

Before starting the test of the old heating, drain all the water. To drain the carrier, open the tap. Act slowly and carefully. Before draining, be sure to check the water temperature - the carrier should cool down to 30 °. The drain valve is at the lowest point of the circuit.

Important! Use a measuring container when draining the coolant to find out the exact volume of liquid. There will not be a question about the amount of water that needs to be poured into the heating network.

After drying, the air valve is opened - the Maevsky crane. The air will fill the circuit and equalize the pressure inside the system.

They proceed to crimping. Use a pump: connect the hose to the branch pipe at the inlet. The valve at the top point is left open so that the air can freely exit.

Fluid is pumped until a pressure is reached that is 1.5 times higher than the operating value. That is, if the operating pressure is 1.5 bar, during the check, it is necessary to increase the index to 2.0-2.25 bar (but no more than the maximum permitted value for the boiler).

Close the upper valve after water begins to flow from it. Assess the tightness. Check the dryness of all difficult areas:

• The places of entrance and exit of pipes from radiators.

• Piping connections.

• Points at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

• Other threaded connections.

The liquid under increased pressure is left for several hours: if during this time there is no leak, then the heating is in order.

Ways to create excessive pressure - two: liquid (water injection) and dry (air injection). The difficulty of self-checking is that when water is poured, an unpleasant situation can arise if there is a rupture place in the circuit (a crack or an unsealed connection). Better to put pressure on the master.

Do you plan to leave water as a coolant? Simply drain the excess quantity until the pressure drops to an operating value of 1.5 bar.

Flushing the home heating system

You need to perform the cleanup:

• If the system is old.

• If you used ordinary water as a coolant.

Before starting the washing, dilute the cleaning agent with water in the proportion specified in the instruction. Pour the product with a pump, fill the circuit with water.

Washing - mandatory procedure

Leave for a few hours. During this time, the solution dissolves the sediment accumulated in the radiators, removes deposits from the inner walls.

After washing, all the liquid is drained and the system is started to be filled. Also, flushing is mandatory before filling the closed-type heating system with antifreeze.

Filling with coolant: step by step

Before you start pouring the liquid, measure the required amount of coolant. If synthetic solutions are used, the mixture is prepared by diluting the concentrate with distillate to the desired volume.
  Before connecting the pump to pump the heating medium into the heating system:

• Close the drain cock.

• Check the bleeding valves: all valves must be closed.

• The Maevsky crane, which is at the upper point, is left open.

Connect the pump to the branch pipe through which liquid will be poured. Usually pumps are equipped with flexible hoses with threaded connection. The water intake hose is lowered into a container with a carrier.

Start filling the system. It is important to choose the optimum power of the pump, avoiding too rapid filling. Simultaneously with the set of water, follow the open tap. Stop filling after the outflow of media from the open crane Maevsky.

Check and prepare for launch

The last step before starting the heating is to remove excess air and check. It is necessary to bleed the air remaining in the circuit from all air valves. To do this, turn on the cranes at extreme points, let out the air. The cranes are closed after the water begins to flow.

When all the air is drained, check the pressure reading. Normally, the values ​​of all manometers installed in the circuit must coincide, and be at the level of 1.5 - 1.8 bar. When using antifreeze, the indicator is sometimes increased to a maximum of 2 bar.

After checking the pressure, the boiler is turned on. At a carrier temperature not exceeding 40 °, the system operates up to 1 hour. Then the heating is turned off. After cooling, another test is performed at a higher temperature. The carrier is heated to 60 ° -70 °. In this mode, the heating is left for 2 - 3 hours.

Starting an open heating system

Complete open system  heating is easier. No special tools are needed. It is sufficient to determine the upper point of the water in the expansion tank. It will take an assistant who will monitor the air cranes.

Rules of work

The liquid is drained through a drain pipe located at the bottom point. If necessary, the circuit is flushed. Filling the system is performed in the sequence:

• Turn off the drain cock.

• Open the bleeding valves.

• The distillate is slowly poured into the expansion tank.

Tank for open type of heating

Continue to fill the system with short interruptions, so that the air evenly rises to the surface. Pour is carried out until the moment when the liquid starts to flow out of the air valves. The valves overlap.

In the expansion tank, add water to the mark. Do not fill the expander completely. When heated, the volume of the liquid increases, and the water will pour out through the edges of the tank. The maximum level of the heat carrier is 2/3 of the internal volume of the tank.

System Check and Maintenance

After the work is finished, bleed air from the radiators. Each air check is checked in turn. Add the required amount of water to the tank.

When operating an open system, it must be remembered that the warm carrier is constantly in contact with the air, and, accordingly, evaporates. Therefore periodically it is necessary to look into the expansion tank. If the level falls, simply add a sufficient amount of water.

Before checking, be sure to turn off the boiler and wait for the water to cool down to room temperature. Do not top up the media in hot water. Use a liquid with a temperature of up to 40 °.

Video: the fineness of filling a closed system

By observing caution and launching rules, one can independently cope with the topping up of the water in the old system. At the first start the check and filling should be done by the masters who installed the heating. If you do not have the skills, do not try to eliminate the leak yourself or replace the coolant in the circuit. Trust the work of a specialist - the master will select the optimal carrier, a cleaning agent that does not damage the internal surfaces, and will correctly fill the system.