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Crane for bleeding air from the cast-iron battery. How to release air from the battery - an overview of the main ways

Before starting heating system it is important to properly prepare it. If a person lives in an urban high-rise building, this problem is unlikely to affect him. After all, for the conduct of a similar procedure, the employees of the housing and communal services are responsible. But owners of the private sector are warmly launched independently. But even during the heating season, the batteries can heat up badly, and in some places even be cold. Probably the system is airborne.

In any case, you need to know how to release air from the radiator to avoid situations related to inefficient equipment operation. Why there is an air cork, its consequences for the work of the heating device, what methods of its removal are available - you can find out all this by reading the article.

If the battery has a zavozdushina, nothing good will come of it. Excess air is an obstacle to the normal functioning of the system. And it can also cause corrosion on the walls of the radiator.

If the circuit is installed, the airlock can also disrupt its operation. When the system functions correctly, the sliding bearings on the shaft of the pump set are constantly in the water. And if there is an air-borne effect, there is the effect of "dry friction", which adversely affects the sliding rings, and can disable the shaft. Therefore it is important to know how to evacuate the air from the heating system at home. The measures taken in time will help to prevent damage to the heat supply network.

How to understand that there is an airlock in the battery?

Before releasing air from the heating system, we need to understand why it is formed in the circuit and how to understand that there is an airlock in the radiator. Most often, excess air accumulates as a result of an incorrect filling of the system with water. The reason can also be the result of errors made during installation. Low pressure in the circuit, poor quality coolant with the presence of dissolved oxygen can also lead to air blasting.

An air stopper can also occur under such circumstances:

The fact that excess air has accumulated in the system can be evidenced by such signs: hissing and gurgling sounds in the battery, the quality of heating decreases, the heating becomes uneven, in the areas of presence of air the radiator can be cold.

Such situations are not uncommon. Surely every owner of an apartment or a private house has faced a similar problem. Therefore, it is important to understand how to remove air from the heating system at home, especially to do it with your own hands is not at all difficult. It should be noted that most often the air cork is formed in the batteries, which are installed on the upper floors of the house.

Important! Sometimes the cause of the cork is a radiator of poor quality.

In this case, how many do not bleed excess air, it will be formed again. And the reason lies in the fact that the material from which the battery is made, promotes the formation of gases. The only way out of the situation is to buy a new radiator. Therefore, it is better to immediately purchase heating appliances from bona fide manufacturers.

How to remove excess air from the battery?

Before releasing the air from the heating system, it is necessary to understand the features of this procedure well and to prepare all the necessary tools and materials. Consider how to remove air from the heating system in more detail. For this work, you need a special key, with which you can open the air valve on the radiator.

It is best to use a radiator wrench. It is sold in any hardware store. If a modern battery is installed, you can take a simple screwdriver. It is necessary to prepare and a container into which the coolant will be drained. And also have a couple of rags next to you in case of unforeseen situations.

The algorithm of actions, how correctly to blow air from the heating system, is given below:

In addition to the Mayevsky cranes, automated air ducts for heating systems, which bleed excess air independently, are also often used. Such automatic units are compact and reliable. But at the same time you have to be extremely cautious. After all, the valve operates unattended. And the slightest violation in the process can cause a flooding of the attic or riser.

Some nuances

There are situations when masters do not install special valves to drain excess air when installing a heat supply system. Consider how to release air from the heating battery in this case. To work, you need a swivel or gas wrench. With it, you need to unscrew the cap. You need to do this very slowly. Sometimes the stub is not unscrewed. Most often this happens, if. In this case, it is necessary to apply a special lubricant to the thread and after a while to try again.

When the stub is unscrewed, the same algorithm is followed as with a conventional crane. When the cork is screwed into place, it is necessary not to forget to wind on the thread of either FUM tape or linen. This will avoid leakage and will seal the joint.

If the air in the heating system of a private house has accumulated, the water should be drained with the help of a surge tank.

This capacity is always located at the highest point of the heating system. When the water is released, you need to wait a bit, and then turn off the tap on the expansion tank. Usually, when the temperature of the battery rises, the plug leaves by itself. If such actions proved to be ineffective, then you should bring the water in the circuit to a boil. In this case, the cork will come out.

How often do I need to vent the air?

Knowing how to bleed air from the heating system, you can prevent and solve many problems. But how often should you do this for prevention? As a rule, you need to do this at the beginning of the heating season. Two times is enough (the first time to check, the second to control). Of course, if there are defects in the system or it is faulty, the number of descents can be greater.

If the apartment is installed, then before starting the system you need to make a water drain. This will help increase battery life at times.

Preventive measures

Of course, knowing how to blow a heating battery is important and necessary. But it is better that the air-blast of the system happens as rarely as possible. It is better to prevent this situation and install an air vent.

At present, the air collectors of heating systems can be of two types: manual (represented by the Mayevsky crane) and float (or automatic). Each of the above types can be installed in various places in which there is a danger of the appearance of a zavozushushiny. The configuration of the Mayevsky crane is traditional. Aircraft can also have angular or direct execution.

In order not to rack your brains about how to blow out the heating system, it is absolutely necessary to install an air vent on each battery.

Manual type of air vent

Air Taps manual type usually mounted from the front of the radiator. With their help, you can easily bleed excess air. It is enough to have only a special key. The performance of such devices is small. Therefore, such an air collector for the heating system is installed only for use at home.

Automatic type of air vent

With regard to the air vents automatic type, they function in the offline mode. Unscrew, you do not need to open anything. The device does everything on its own. Mount them strictly in a horizontal or vertical position. But I must say that such a valve for the descent of air from the heating system has one drawback - high sensitivity to pollution of various types. Therefore, it will be necessary to additionally install a filter that will clean the device of mechanical impurities.

Important! If air is formed in the heating system, you should find out the reason for this situation. Especially if there were no similar problems before. It is important not just to remove the airlock, but take all measures so that it does not appear again. Therefore, it is necessary to check the device for leaks. Perhaps, somewhere you should change the nuts or tighten the bolts, seal the joints more qualitatively. And maybe the air vent is not installed correctly or the automatic air separator for heating has failed.

The result

Summing up, we can say that the problem of the system's winding up is quite urgent. It can arise in urban high-rise buildings, and in private houses. Factors for the formation of excess air can be many. It is very important to establish the true cause and know how to release air from the heating radiator correctly, so that in the future such situations do not occur.

An important role in the efficient and efficient operation of radiators is played by the installation of special air vent. Having installed such a device, the owner of the house or apartment will be able to forget about the problem of the appearance of air congestion, save time and money, and also extend the life of the entire heat supply system.

More often than not, there are no problems. But sometimes it suddenly becomes cold in the house or strange sounds arise in the radiator. What could it be? Unfortunately, in this case there is a presence of air in the heating system, which means that it is necessary to release air from there. Today you will learn how to do it without the Maevsky crane.

Zavozdushnost in the battery: what it is and how to determine

What is zvozdushennost in the heating battery? This concept means the accumulation of air, most often in the upper part of the radiator. This situation becomes a problem and quite often for those who live in multi-storey houses on one of the last floors. The reasons for the occurrence of such trouble can be several:

Carrying out of repair works on the site / on the adjacent floors. In the event that work was carried out in a residential square with heating pipes, the probability of entering a small air flow into the system is great.
There was a leakage of coolant at some of the sites (which means that an immediate check of the system is necessary to eliminate the leakage).
Feature of the system of warm floors. The problem of the system's blown-up is indeed a frequent picture in the presence of a warm-floor system, especially if it has complex scheme and many branches.

Cast-iron battery

The water that has a high temperature contains air and the more frequently it is updated in the system, the higher the probability of a malfunction.
If the appearance of an air "plug" in time coincides with the launch of a common heating main - with a greater degree of probability, we can say that it was the start-up of the system that caused the air strikes.

Council. If you live in a private house, then, in principle, do not worry much about the system's blown-up (if it is small), the fact is that in private heating systems, the coolant usually changes very rarely, and, therefore, the air must self-fire within a few days.

Determining the presence of an air "plug" is quite simple. For example, if the temperature of the water in the battery drops sharply or the battery becomes only partly cold, it may even start to bubble - these are all signs of zazvoznushnosti.

The descent of the air without the Maevsky crane

On most home heating batteries there is a special device that helps to simplify the air bleeding task as much as possible - or an automatic valve.

But here's the question: what to do if such a device on the battery is simply missing? If at you such picture has appeared before eyes - most likely, in your house are established. On such batteries, a simple stub is often installed, which was twisted on a paint-covered pencil. In addition, it was also covered with a layer of paint during the staining of the heating batteries.

Maevsky crane

It is difficult to remove it in order to gain access to the heat carrier located in the system. For this reason, the simplest way out of the situation can be considered an appeal to neighbors from the last floor of the house (they will probably have a Maevsky crane on the battery). But if the neighbors, for example, left or you yourself are the tenant of the last floor and there is no tap? In this case it is necessary to resort to the "grandfather" method of bleeding air from the heating system.

So, you need to stock up a basin, a bucket and a lot of rags. In addition (with bare hands, after all, do not take this "barrier"), you will need a wrench for unscrewing the cork and some solvent for the paint. Otherwise, you simply can not move the plug from the "dead" point.

So, first apply to the place where the plug is installed, the solvent and wait for 15 minutes. After that, gently begin to move the adjustable wrench through the threads until the plug begins to feed. You will hear how the air starts to bleed. When the sound ceases (a sign of lack of air), be sure to wrap the cover of the "bag" layer and put it back in place. If you want, you can lightly paint the place of the end of the plug with the battery.

Council. Before you start, it is advisable to cover the riser for safe operation, otherwise, if the jerk is sufficiently sharp, you completely unscrew the plug and the water from the battery can no longer be stopped.

You have learned about how quickly and fairly simply you can cope with the task of lowering the air from the radiator in the absence of a Maevsky crane. Good luck!

Crane installation on battery: video

Often in the first days after the start of the functioning of the heating system, it is found that some batteries do not work at full speed. The reason for this may be the airiness of the elements. The solution of this problem in apartment buildings is the task of ZhEK employees. But not always they do it in good faith. And in private households, troubleshooting completely falls on the shoulders of the owners. Consider how to let the air out of the battery yourself.

Before we figure out how to release air from the heating system, we'll figure out why it accumulates there. Main reasons:

carrying out repair work - during the analysis / collection of elements, air inevitably enters them;
incorrect start-up of the heating system in the apartment building - according to the standards, the pipes must be filled with water slowly while bleeding excess air;
loose fit of system parts or poor sealing of joints - the coolant flows imperceptibly and evaporates, and air is drawn in from the outside;
reduced pressure in the pipeline, leading to the formation of voids and their filling with air;
increased amount of oxygen in the coolant - there are always gas bubbles in the water, but if there are too many of them, air plugs can form;
incorrect connection of the underfloor heating system - location of the branches at different heights;
incorrect operation or absence of air vent on battery.

In addition, to the accumulation of air can lead to poor quality radiator. Aluminum devices are distinguished by an affordable price and high thermal conductivity. But the metal actively reacts with water, as a result of which hydrogen gas is released. The problem of fast corrosion is partially solved by the film, which is covered with aluminum from inside, but it eventually disappears. A more reliable, durable and costly option is bimetallic batteries, in which aluminum is combined with steel that does not respond to water.

As a rule, with the problem of how to extinguish the batteries, residents of the last floors in multi-apartment buildings collide. When heated, oxygen, dissolved in water, rises, forming stoppers. In private houses with open system heating air bubbles freely through expansion tank at the top of the system, so air usually does not accumulate, except in some cases.

Signs of an air-cork and its harm

To suspect the presence of an air plug in the radiator is possible by the following features:

the air temperature in the apartment is significantly lower than that of neighbors;
the battery heats unevenly - the part in which there is air remains cold;
there are sibilant and gurgling sounds.

Due to the accumulation of air in the radiator, the operation of the heating system is disrupted. Possible consequences:

reducing the effect of battery operation - the air in the room does not warm up to the required level at a significant energy cost;
damage to pipeline components due to temperature differences - some parts remain cold, others - overheat;
acceleration of corrosion of radiators due to prolonged contact of metal with air;
failure circulating pump under the influence of the effect of "dry friction".

Tip: You can detect the accumulation of air by tapping the battery with a metal object. In the area of the cork sound will be higher and more sonorous than in the part filled with water.

How to release air from the battery?

The answer to the question of how to release air from the heating radiator depends on the type of air trap installed on it. These devices are necessary to facilitate the removal of excess gas from the system. They should be installed in those areas where there is a risk of traffic jams, or, even more convenient, on each battery. Possible options:

crane of Majewski (manual regulator);
automatic (float) system.

In addition, the battery can be equipped with a water tap or a plug.

Maevsky crane

The Maevsky crane is a needle-type shut-off valve. It is mounted at the end of the radiator at the top. If it is necessary to release air, it should be unscrewed with a special key that can be bought at a hardware store, or a conventional screwdriver. Some models are equipped with a plastic handle, they do not need tools to open them.

Stages of work on air removal:

Place a container to collect the coolant under the shut-off valve.
Smoothly turn off the Maevsky crane. At the same time, air will start to flow, which will be accompanied by hissing. It is necessary to wait for the flow of a uniform trickle of water - this is a sign of eliminating the plug. Usually it takes 5-7 minutes.
Close the valve.

In the process of airing, water can start to come out under pressure, splashing in different directions. It should be put rags on the air vent, so that the liquid is absorbed into it and flows gently into the container. It is worth considering that the water can be hot enough, it is important to avoid it getting on the skin.

Important: Before opening the Mayevsky crane, you do not need to cover the entire heating pipe stand or wait for the coolant to cool. These actions are not only superfluous, but also reduce the effectiveness of airing due to the pressure drop in the heating system.

Automatic air vent

If an automatic air vent is installed, the question of how to properly drain air from the battery does not arise. This device, which can have a straight or angled construction, operates in an autonomous mode. It is mounted on the radiator strictly vertically or horizontally.

The automatic air vent is equipped with a float that tightly closes the valve provided there is sufficient water in the system. As soon as the air accumulates in the battery, the float drops, the opening opens and the gas exits. That is, de-airing takes place without the participation of a person.

The drawback of such a device for air removal is the susceptibility to water quality. The presence of impurities in the coolant leads to a rapid breakdown of the mechanism. In this regard, you should use filters. In addition, you need to periodically replace the O-ring and clean the valve needle. Otherwise, water may leak.

Blanket

It's not an easy task to release air from the heating battery if there is no air vent and a plug is installed instead. Before starting work, the access of the coolant to the radiator should be blocked.

Modern sectional batteries are equipped with upper plugs. Completely remove the fitting is not necessary. It is enough to slowly turn it slowly, making a few turns, and wait until the air comes out. Previously, all adjacent surfaces should be protected with rags.

It is more difficult to blow out the old cast-iron radiator, since the plug on it is usually fixed securely with a paste and paint. Algorithm of actions:

Apply a small amount of solvent to the joint of the fitting and the battery. Wait 10-20 minutes.
Put a bucket under the hole. Put rags on the floor.
Using a wrench, unscrew the plug (not fully) so that the air starts to escape.
Wind the thread with sealing material and tighten the plug.

It's important to do everything neatly. If you do not block the water and remove the fitting completely, hot water will flow out of the hole under pressure.

Determine that the air plug is eliminated, you can by estimating the temperature of the batteries. Sections that used to be cold should warm up.

Crane

On many old batteries, there are conventional water taps. When the valve is unscrewed, water starts to flow from the hole, and accumulated air exits with it. It may be necessary to drain several buckets of liquid to remove all excess gas.

To facilitate the work, it is desirable to use a long flexible hose: connect one end to the faucet, and the second - to lower it into the toilet. The valve must be opened as much as possible to ensure a high rate of water leakage.

A private house

If there is an airlock in the heating system of a private house, you need not only work with each battery separately, but also perform removal from the entire system as a whole. The procedure may differ slightly depending on whether the heating system is used with an open or closed expansion tank. But in general, it boils down to the fact that the batteries are also released by air using one of the methods described above.

Air jams reduce the efficiency of heating systems and increase the risk of breakdowns. Remove excess air from the radiator yourself. The easiest way to do this is if you have a manual air vent. In the future it is important to find out the cause of the problem and fix it. In difficult situations, it is better to contact employees of housing and operational offices.

At the first encounter with the problem of how to bleed the air from the heating batteries, the videos will help you avoid mistakes.

Harmless looking air bubbles, always present in the hot water of the heating system, sooner or later accumulate at the top of the radiator. But the air congestion that creates air in the batteries is not such an inoffensive phenomenon. They practically paralyze the circulation hot water in the pipeline, which leads to cooling of the entire heating system and, accordingly, to a decrease in room temperature in the apartment.

In most cases, the male part of the population independently gets rid of air congestion at home, using a simple instrument and modest knowledge of how to release air from the battery.

Detection of air congestion

The presence of air in the working cavity of the battery prevents the full flow of hot water through all sections of the radiator, appear cavities that are not filled with water. From them through the walls of the battery, the bubbling sounds of running water are heard.

If you lightly tap with a hammer on the top of the radiator, then in the place where the air cork is hiding, the metal will sound more sonorous, since in other places the water extinguishes sounds. Naturally, most of the accumulations of air bubbles are observed in the batteries installed above all in the riser.

Air discharge through special valves

The saying "Prepare a sleigh in the summer ..." as if specially designed for summer preventive works with the heating system. Prudent owners set up the cranes, in advance having taken care of the problem of how to release air from the battery in the winter. By the way, the cranes on the pipeline and on the radiator will also help in other situations, for example, when repairing or replacing radiators. You can always close your own water in your apartment and troubleshoot problems.

If you do not doubt the presence of an airlock in the battery, then with a crane with it it is not difficult to cope. First, put a piece of rubber hose on the spout and prepare a bucket so that the water splashed out with air does not fill the floor. Carefully open the tap, because the water in the system is under pressure. A slight hissing of the exhaust air will be heard. Wait until it stops, and close the tap.

Certainly, together with the air some amount of water will escape, but you are safe with a hose and do not splash anything around. Having let out together with air the cooled down water (about 20 liters), you resume the normal circulation of hot water in your heating circuit. Now your battery should heat up quickly.

Similar actions are taken in the presence of the Mayevsky crane. Be sure to substitute a water tank - bucket or basin, put a rag. Depending on the type of head, the faucet opens with a screwdriver, or with hands or pliers. Air with noise will start to come out of the tap, do not be afraid of his whistling or hissing. It is necessary to wait for the appearance of water, its pressure will be weak, and the air will all come out. Close the tap, you just coped with the problem yourself, how to bleed the air in the battery and run a hot heating.

Removing the airlock in the absence of cranes

If there are no special cranes, then to vent the air you have to unscrew the cap on the upper end of the radiator. In order not to flood the neighbors in case of a strong leak through the evacuated plug, it is necessary to block the flow of hot water into the battery. To do this, do not be lazy to go down to the basement and block the water in the entire riser, so that your local problem, how to remove air from the battery, does not turn into proceedings with angry neighbors. It is necessary to provide for any trifle. Prepare a bucket, a large basin, a ladle, overlay the area of work with rags.

To open the plug, use the adjustable wrench and a little bit of kerosene, gasoline or turpentine. At one time, the cork was twisted on a paint pencil, to remove and remove rust on the thread, you would need to cook kerosene. Apply a few drops of kerosene to the place where the plug is fixed and wait for fifteen minutes. Accurately and slowly start to unscrew the cap. Perhaps it will take a lot of effort to make the stub out of the way. It must be unscrewed until the outgoing air rings.

It is important! When unscrewing the cap, try not to overdo it so as not to unscrew it completely from the threaded socket of the radiator. If the water in the riser is not blocked, then with the flowing hot water, it is practically impossible to screw the plug back.

In order to get out all the air, you can even lightly shake the battery. Wrap the thread of the band or tape FUM, tighten the plug to the old place.

This article is about how to remove air in the heating system and how to prevent it from re-igniting. In it I will talk about solutions for different heating schemes and different levels of the reader's skills, the reasons for the appearance of air congestion and the prevention of their formation.

Than this is bad

What harms the airlock in the hot water circuit?

The main danger is that it is able to completely stop the circulation in the entire circuit or on its separate site. Differential pressure in a typical heating system apartment building between the mixture after the water-jet elevator and the return (ie at the beginning and at the end of the heating circuit) does not exceed 0.2 kgf / cm. On a separate riser, it corresponds to the pressure in a few centimeters of the water column.

This difference is not enough to overcome the difference in the density of air and water. As a result, the top of the riser remains air-blown, and the circulation of the coolant in it is impossible. Consequences - lack of heating in the apartments, and in the first serious frosts - defrosting the heating circuit area.

Moreover: in the majority apartment buildings Soviet-built heating is still used in black steel. Its contact with air under conditions of high humidity sharply reduces the life of the pipeline. Corrosion, you know.

Where does the air come from?

Where do the charged batteries come from? Is not the circuit to be filled year-round?

Must. On this score, there is the strictest instruction of the "Thermal Networks" responsible for the operation of the Central Organ.

Only - that's the trouble! - except for instructions, there is still a harsh reality:

Summer - the time of revision and repair of the stop valves on the risers and elevator units. Fill the circuit and discharge the air from each riser after replacing each valve and the hose, the housing organization will simply be ruined for paying for water if this is done;

Summer - the time of revision of the shut-off valves on heating.

Residents of apartments during the holidays are often puzzled by the replacement and transfer of radiators. At the same time, they also drop the risers, or even the whole house;
With the latches closed and the cooling of the circuit, the volume of the coolant in it decreases. Physics, however. It is necessary to open any valve - and the riser will suck in air with a noise;
Finally, cooled down cast-iron radiators after stopping the heating often begin to flow between the sections. The reason is the same thermal expansion. After the tenth - fifteenth leaks in one entrance, the mechanic faces a difficult choice: spend the whole summer on the bulkhead of batteries with replacement of gaskets or simply drop the circuit for a couple of months until the fall.

How to shoot

The way in which the heating circuit is vented is predictably dependent on two factors:

From its configuration. Systems of bottling and bottling are arranged differently;
From who you are - a resident of one of the apartments or a locksmith serving apartment house. This determines your goal: do you need to try to run the maximum possible number of risers without climbing to the upper floors.

Bottom filling, access level - user

How does the removal of the airlock in the house with bottled bottles look like, if you are the owner of one of the apartments in a block of flats?

The key feature of the bottom filling is the pairwise connection of the heating risers. The feeders and feeders are in the basement; The risers are cut off from them by valves, after which there are plugs or taps to discharge water.

All air from the bottom heating system is forced into the top of each pair of risers. In the apartments of the upper floor or (rarely) in the attic there is a jumper between the risers. Directly on it or in the radiator cap of one of the radiators is the Maevsky crane, an uncomplicated device that allows air to escape.

The tenants of the upper floor just turn the tap half a turn and wait until instead of the hissing air from it a fine trickle of water pours. If you live below - pay a visit to the neighbors from the top at a time convenient for them.

If the tenants of the upper floor are not settled or on departure, the problem is solved by the housing service organization servicing the house. Your task is to fix the application on the lack of heat in the apartment.

If the problem is not resolved as soon as possible, you have the right to demand a recalculation for heating, so dwellers usually try to do everything possible and impossible to run the riser.

Lower Bottling, Access Level - Administrator

How to get rid of air plugs from the heating system of the bottom filling, if you are on "you" with plumbing and have access to the basement?

Switch off the entire heating circuit. To do this, it is sufficient to close one of the house heating valves and open the discharge in front of it to the sewer; if the air does not come out after 5-10 minutes, the system can be switched in the opposite direction (from the feed to the return or from the return flow).

Do not forget, after closing the reset, return the valves to the operating mode: the shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet of the heating circuit must be fully open.

If the problem concerns individual risers, in many cases they can also be moved from the basement. Closing the valve on one of the twin risers, open the discharge pad on it. If a lot of air comes out with the tap water, you have a chance of success.

First of all, this concerns a pair of risers, one of which is idle, and the second one has heating devices. When starting the water to discharge from the worker into the idle stand, a complete deletion of the air always occurs.

One of the twin risers feeds the radiators, the second - idler.

If there are stubs on the riser instead of the reliefs, do not despair, we can try to solve the problem in this case too.

Here are two obvious solutions:

Close both risers and, dropping them, install instead of one of the plugs ball valve with threads "papa-mama". Unplanned costs (price ball valve the size of DN15 - DN20 is approximately 100-200 rubles) will hardly seem like a nightmare against the background of the lack of heating;

Close both valves on the risers, and then unscrew one of the plugs. After overflowing the riser to the reset, stop it and wrap the plug back, then start it in the operating mode. Hanging in a relatively thin tube water will not allow it to recruit a new portion of air.

This method works only at the beginning of the heating season, when the temperature of the mixture at the exit from the elevator does not exceed 45 degrees. In cold weather, instead of starting a riser, you will get quite serious burns.

Top filling, access level - administrator

How to kick the air plug from the heating system at home with top filling?

The peculiarity of this system is the outflow of feed to the attic of the house when the return is in the basement. Each riser is disconnected at two points - at the top and bottom; all the risers are of equal value and on the same floor have the same temperature.

When the circuit is started, the air is displaced from the heating battery and then from the riser to the filling filling, and then to the closed expansion tank located at its upper point. Having opened the house latches, you must go up to the attic and for a while open the valve at the top of the tank. After the air has been displaced by the coolant, the circulation in all will be restored.

On the right above there is a closed expansion tank with a vent for venting.

If you are far from the secrets of the valves and valves, just apply to the service company. In the house of the top filling you can not empty the air from the battery yourself, but you can easily fill in the attic of the tenants of the upper floor.

Private house, access level - administrator

What to do in a private house if the heating circuit or part of it is started?

The bad news is that there are no universal recipes: the heating circuit of a private house is always designed individually.

Good - in that the designers are guided by the same principles:

When forced circulation automatic air vent in the heating system are mounted near the circulation pump (usually in front of it in the course of the coolant flow). The air vent can also stand in the boiler body. If air is in the circuit - it is possible that the air valve is simply clogged with debris or scale;

Safety group of the boiler. In the center is an automatic air vent.

For individual heating devices, the air vent valve is installed only if they are located above the filling. If bottling passes under the ceiling or in the attic - look for an air valve for heating in its upper part;

Each brace (bending of bottling in a vertical plane) is also always supplied with an air vent. If they are not for some reason, you can try to overtake the bottling by resetting one of the methods described above.

The reason for the absence of circulation often becomes not air, but a fully or partially closed choke on one of the heating devices or sections of the circuit.

In the photo there is a choke on the radiator piping. If it is covered, the battery will be cold.

Security

What you can not do, bleeding air?

Human fantasy is truly unlimited, so I will give only repetitive cases from my practice.

Of course, from the repertoire of apartment tenants: plumbers have their quirks.

Do not completely unscrew the rod from the vent. Under the pressure of hot water it can not be wrapped back;
Do not try to unscrew the body of the crane. Even half a turn. If the thread is broken, flooding the apartment will be inevitable;

An even worse idea is to partially remove any of the radiator plugs for bleeding air. There were precedents. In the last known case, I was flooded with 6 floors of boiling water.

Prevention

Is it possible to modify the heating system with our own hands so that we do not face the problem of air strangulation?

If you live on the top floor or in a private house - you can.

The recipe is extremely simple:

In the autonomous circuit, connect the heating devices according to the "bottom-down" scheme. Even if air accumulates inside the radiator, it will not affect the water circulation through the lower header in any way. In this case, the battery will be hot throughout the entire volume due to its own thermal conductivity;

At the top of the riser or the entire circuit, mount the automatic air ducts. They rarely require maintenance and bleed air jams without your participation.

Conclusion

As you can see, all the problems of air heating are completely solved. You can learn more about possible solutions from the video in this article. Waiting for your additions and comments. Successes, comrades!