How to replace old plugs with automatic machines? How to change plugs for machines

Today, one of the most important requirements for the installation of electrical wiring in living quarters is the installation of automatic protective shutdown devices. In the event of a leakage current detection, this device automatically breaks the electrical circuit, protecting the person from a current shock. What are the advantages over modern plugs have modern machines, and how to independently install the installation of automatic equipment - read below.

What is the replacement of plugs for machines for?

Safety plugs are an indispensable means of protecting electrical wiring and household appliances. They put in an apartment, a private house, in a country cottage. Replacing old fuses with new, today, is a must. After all, with the advent of new, powerful home appliances, the burden on the old wiring of the strong has increased.

In addition, the new Euro-automata are recognized, for today, as the most effective and safe means of protecting the power grid.

Thus, old ceramic, electrical plugs were disposable fuses that, if short-circuited or increased load on the network, burned out, thereby breaking the chain. The speed of operation of such plugs and their sensitivity to the leakage current was low enough. In addition, to save money on the restoration of the plug, some citizens inserted homemade "bugs" into the devices. Such bugs often led to fires. Soviet automatic plugs with two buttons are also gradually moving to the background. Over time, contacts begin to oxidize in them, which affect the operation of the plugs: the device can operate at the slightest voltage surges or fail at all. In this case, they are recommended to be changed immediately. To avoid such situations in the future, it is better to replace the plugs with European standard automata.

New Euro-machines differ in a number of advantages:

• They are reliable and durable;
• Euro-models differ both in size of a current, and on speed of operation;
• New plugs are easy to use;
• Use of these plugs is easy and simple;
• Installation of equipment is fast enough;
• Euro-machines have compact dimensions and attractive design.

Some automatic devices are equipped with thermal protection. Thus, when the electric conductor overheats due to increased load, the circuit breaker opens.

Replacing the machine in the shield with your own hands: choosing the plug

Effective and long run automatic euro-plugs will be able only if they are properly selected. The choice of a plug should be made taking into account the parameters of the electrical circuit, the individual requirements of the consumer for protection. What kind of traffic jams to deliver?

In order to select the right equipment automatically:

• Calculate the power of the machine. To do this, it is necessary to take the sum of all household appliances (not forgetting the lighting devices), which will work simultaneously, and divide them into voltage in the network (220 or 380 V). In this case, it is desirable to take a new machine with a small margin in power. The 16A and 25A submachine guns are considered the most popular.
• Make sure that your wiring can withstand the voltage of the machine. You can do this by knowing the cross-section, diameter and material of the wiring harness manufacturing.
• Decide with the manufacturer. The best quality, proven equipment is produced by foreign firms Moeller, ABB, Legrand.

Buy automatic devices better through official dealers, the company's website. If you need to perform frequent power outages and shutdowns, instead of a conventional automatic machine, it is better to choose a relay or magnetic contactor.

Instruction: how to put the machine in the guard

Most often, instead of old traffic jams in apartments and private homes put a bipolar machine. Such a device, in the event of an emergency, disconnects both the phase and the zero immediately. Sometimes in specialized stores it is recommended to install two automata. Doing this is forbidden: with voltage drops, only one machine can go out to zero. In this case, the phase in the room will remain on.

In order to put the machine in the shield it is necessary:

1. Unscrew the old plugs and, using the indicator screwdriver, determine where the phase is, and where zero (if the bulb on the screwdriver caught fire, then the phase is in front of you).
2. Disconnect the electricity. Working under stress is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous for life.
3. Dismantle the cartridges of the plugs.
4. Using screws, dowels or screws to the place of cartridges, above the contacts, install DIN-rail. The size of the rail must correspond to the size of the machine.
5. Connect the machine. To do this, connect the neutral wire to the upper terminal with the "N" indicator and connect the phase to the "L" terminal. To the lower terminals are attached wires that go to the dwelling.

The machine is ready to go! The equipment can be improved by installing a protective shutdown device on it. It can protect a person from electric shock when touching bare wires and prevent a fire from contacting the phase conductor with ground or housing.

How to change the machine in the shield under voltage

The installation of an automaton in an apartment or inside a private house under stress may be necessary in the event that it was not possible to disconnect the input machine before the light meter. At the same time, it is highly discouraged to change the plugs to the machine under voltage yourself: first, it can be dangerous for life and health, and secondly, the wires can close. Such work should be performed by a person with extensive experience in working with electrical equipment and conductive wires.

The order of the electrician's actions will look like this:

1. Dismantling of the electricity meter and old plugs. The master will remove the electric meter and unscrew the cartridges. To get to the power contacts of the counter, it is necessary to tear off the device that keeps the count, the seal, unscrew the screw and remove the front cover. Then the specialist will check where the phase is located on the electricity meter, and where zero, and will mark the wires.
2. Dismantling the cork body. Ceramic shells from the plugs must be eliminated. In their place will be attached a special rack, holding the machine.
3. Connecting the circuit breaker. The wizard will connect a certain number of automatic machines according to the project, depending on the number and power of consumers.
4. Installation and connection of an electricity meter (if necessary, the installation of an RCD). To the lower contacts of automata the specialist will connect the phase wires that go to the consumers. Next - connect the input to the counter (zeros and phases).

After completing the connections, the wizard will check the system serviceability and test the common RCD. After that - turn on the machines and load. Some are interested in whose account such work is being conducted? So, if the work is carried out in a privatized apartment, then the payment for electrician services falls on the owner's shoulders. 0.00 (0 Votes)

To date, almost all of us have electricity metering thanks to modern meters. These devices, as a rule, are electronic, compact in external and internal execution. Some of them are equipped with microprocessor devices, which automatically transmit the indications to the power supply company in a timely manner.

But there are also such electric meters, made even in the times of the USSR. Such an electricity meter is a black box with a rotating disc inside. As a rule, together with it, as a protection against short-circuit currents, electrical plugs (fuses), which worked at the slightest overload of the network. Sometimes it was necessary several times a day to change the fuse-link inside the cork. Those tenants, who were bored with it, installed automatic plugs or where they often put a screwdriver in the plug.

Perhaps one of you dear friends has also installed such an electric counter. Usually they remain in consumers with a small load. Those who are older are sure to see them alive. But do not worry about this, with time these meters will also be replaced by modern (and completely free). It is about this ancient equipment will be discussed in today's article.

How to replace plugs on machines in the apartment

Good day to all dear friends. I greet you on the channel "Electrician in the house". Today's material will be devoted to replacing obsolete security devices, namely, we will analyze, how to replace plugs on machines. As always, I will describe a little about what will be discussed today.

The next order, which I had to do, was in an old five-story building. The young couple moved into a new apartment and, as expected, started repairs. Before that, elderly people lived there. You understand, it was necessary to change everything in the apartment, starting from plumbing with electricians and finishing with finishing works.

Counter with traffic jams   installed inside the apartment on a plastic stand. Electric wiring is aluminum. My task as an electrician was to upgrade the protection unit - replacing old Soviet plugs with modern automatic switches.

I did not talk about the replacement of the electrical wiring, especially on my proposals to throw out all this junk and in exchange to install a normal electric shield with modern protection the customer refused. Well, as they say master master. It's good that I agreed to install an additional RCD (about this a little later).

How to replace plugs on machines under voltage

When carrying out any work on live parts, it is necessary to switch off the voltage. I always say this and continue to repeat. Therefore, the first thing to do is to de-energize our apartment. Go and the switchboard and turn off the machine. But not everything was so simple, then a little surprise waited for me.

The electric flap, which was located on the landing, was locked and there were no keys at hand.

What was left to do in this case? To de-energize the wiring, just unscrew the plugs. There are no problems with this. But in order to de-energize the meter itself, it is necessary to disconnect the machine in the electrical panel (if such an option is available).

In my case prefilter   it was not possible to disconnect, so I had to unplug the whole thing under tension. We do everything very carefully. Any work related to electricity requires attention and concentration.

To make it clear I'll break my work into several stages.

1) We remove the electricity meter

In order to dismantle the electric meter it is necessary to disconnect the load and to disconnect the meter itself. Disabling the load will not be a problem, for this unscrew the plugs. But as I wrote above, the counter could not be de-energized, so it would be necessary to work under voltage.

We unscrew both plugs from our cartridges and turn off the machine. What kind of machine is this? I will talk about this below.

Now you need to get to the power contacts of the counter. To do this, tear off the seal from the counter, unscrew the screw and remove the cover from the front side. Before us are power contacts that are under tension.

The phase is always connected to the first contact. But for persuasiveness it is necessary to check the indicator. It is not known who connected this counter and how drunk it was at that :))).

As I said, the phase comes to the first contact. Carefully unscrew the screws, pull the wire from the contact and isolate. We carry out all work with a tool with an insulating coating.

Then we disconnect the remaining wires from the meter and mark them with the appropriate markings, so that nothing can be confused when assembling. Working zero, which comes from the floor plate is connected to the third contact of the electricity meter. The phase and zero that exit the counter are connected to the second and fourth contact respectively.

The photo shows that from this "shield" (if it can be called so) was thrown an additional line on the washing machine. Protection of this line was carried out through a circuit breaker rated at 25 A. This machine is also removed and discarded. It's unclear what clever man thought of feeding wire 1.5 mm2 from the machine 25 Amperes.

2) We dismantle the case from the plugs

After cork and counter   will be removed, it is necessary to throw out the casing from the stoppers (boxes into which the plugs are screwed). We unscrew all outgoing wires from the plug holders and also mark them.

We necessarily mark, where the phase and zero. This will be important in the future when connecting machines.

As you can see, on the photo from each probe holder two wires are departing, one of them is pair-phase, the other is zero. Why is one cork protecting two groups. It would be possible to install two pairs of plugs, for each wire separately, this would be more correct. Well, okay, it does not matter.

Then the plug holders are disconnected from the carbolite housing and discarded. Wires that go from the meter to the plugs are also thrown away, this stuff is also useless, they will be replaced and we will make the wiring with a normal wire.

The lead-in wire along the length was with a margin, so here worry that it was not short. Section is certainly not the most suitable, only 2.5 mm2, but well that without twists (at least I have not seen them).

3) Connect the waste automata

Now that everything is ready, you can proceed directly to the replacing plugs for machines. To know how many machines you need to connect you need to understand the electrical circuit. In this case, you need three machines. Why three? It's very easy to remove two wires from the phase plug, plus one more wire is thrown separately (via an automatic 25 Ampere). It turns out that each line will be connected through its automaton.

All circuit breakers will be installed on the din rail. To do this, we take a piece of din reiki and attach it to the place where there used to be cork holders.

We place machines and RCDs on the DIN-rail, as they must stand on the project. I used all automation in this example from Schneider Electric. After the arrangement, we switch everything between us. To prevent the machines from moving and jumping off the intended installation site, I put the edges of the rail metal stoppers yxd10.

I do the wiring by means of a P-3 wire with a cross-section of 6 mm2 (the cross section was too much but not at hand). I had only a white wire for wiring, so I used the heat-shrink tubing to color the phase-zero (red-phase, blue-zero).

Zero wires will be connected to the bus, which is also installed on the DIN rail.

As you can see, all the wiring is made with a two-wire cable, so there is no grounding in the apartment. Therefore, I agreed with the owner that we will additionally install an RCD on the line of the washing machine.

This photo shows the termination of the wires for connecting the electric meter. As you know, each terminal in the meter has two screws (the wire is tightened with two screws). If the wire is crimped with a single NRTI tip and placed in the socket for connection, this will not be enough. Therefore, to get out of the situation, I used one NSHI sleeve for 6 mm and one SSH sleeve also for 6 mm. One continuous tip of the right size was obtained.

The main work on replacing plugs on the machines we performed, it remains only to connect the meter and apply power to the circuit breakers.

4) Install and connect an electricity meter

At this stage, our almost finished. After we have divided the machines into groups, you can immediately start installing and connecting the meter to your place.

We connect the wires marked with red and blue heat shrinkage to the outgoing terminals of the counter.

We connect the phase from the counter to the upper terminal of one of the automata. We can carry out the wiring to other machines with a train with the mandatory crimping of the wire in NSHV-2. You could use comb for connecting automata   , but I chose the method with NSHV-2. We start the zero from the counter on the zero bus.

Remember, a little bit earlier I pointed out that it is necessary to mark the wires so as not to mix up where the phase was connected, and where zero. Now we connect wires to the lower contacts of automatic machines, which go to the load (in the apartment). We connect the phase wires to the automata, each wire to a separate automatic device. The sequence is not important since all the schneider electric circuit breakers are of the same nominal value with 16 amperes. All zero wires, except for the line that goes to the washing machine, we connect to the zero line.

The line from which the station is powered. the machine is connected via a schneider electric 40 A circuit breaker with a leakage current of 30 mA. To do this, we connect the phase and neutral wires of this line to the output of the RCD, each to its pole, respectively.

The RCD itself is fed in this way, the "phase" comes from the lower contact of the machine, which will work "in pairs" with the RCD and is connected to the upper contact (labeled L). Zero comes straight from the null bus to your contact (labeled N).

We connect the wires to the zero bus.

We connect the phase wires to the lower contacts of the circuit breakers. To the lower contacts of the RCD we connect the wires going to the washing machine (phase and zero to the corresponding terminal).

We take a phase wire, remove the insulation from it, which was applied for marking and connected to the first contact of the meter. Well tighten, but without fanaticism, otherwise you can transfer the aluminum core. It is necessary to disconnect the machines before applying power to the meter terminals.

With zero wire, we do all the same, connect it to the third contact of the counter. After all the meter wires are connected, you can close the terminals with a cover.

After all connections, we must check the serviceability of the RCD, press the "TEST" button. If the RCD is working properly, it should shut down. If, by pressing the RCD button, one of the two does not respond, or the protective device itself is faulty, or the wiring and connection are not executed correctly.

Now you can turn on the machines and load the load. Make sure that all connections are made correctly. The counter should work properly. After checking the correctness of the connection, the inspector from the energy supervision will seal it.

I hope you, dear readers liked this article, if you have any questions, I will gladly answer them in the comments. Until next time!

To account for the electrical energy received by individual consumers from the power plant or transmitted by the electric station to the grid, electric energy meters are used.

Counters are electrodynamic, induction and electronic, single-phase and three-phase, single-tariff and multi-tariff. The electrical wires entered into the apartment are connected to the input of the meter. The output of the electric meter is the beginning of the internal apartment wiring. The total electricity consumption in the apartment for a certain period of time is determined by electrodynamic or induction meters. The panel with the counter and fuses must be fixed at an altitude of 1.3-1.7 m from the floor level.

The counter is connected by professional electricians. Further, the Governor installs a special seal on the meter body, and a representative of the power supply organization places a seal on the removable counter cover. Only then you can connect the apartment wiring to the meter.

Electrodynamic counter . A conventional electrodynamic counter contains a fixed current winding in the form of coils made of thick wire. If you turn on the appliance, the electric current passes through the coils, and a magnetic field arises around the coils. Between these coils is an anchor consisting usually of three or more coils. The anchor rotates on the axle installed in the thrust bearings. At anchor the collector with metal brushes is strengthened. With the help of the collector, there is a change in the direction of the current in the armature conductors, located in a magnetic field created by fixed coils. The purpose of the collector is the same as that of the DC motor. The interaction between the magnetic fields of the fixed current coils and the armature winding leads to the rotation of the armature. On the axis of the anchor is strengthened an aluminum disk, which rotates between the poles of a permanent magnet. When the disk rotates in a magnetic field, eddy currents appear in it, which retard the motion of the disk. To prevent spontaneous rotation of the disc on its axis, a small steel plate is strengthened, which is attracted to the permanent magnet and stops the rotation of the disk.

At the load of the counter, the torque overcomes the force of attraction of the plate to the magnet. This does not affect the average rotation speed of the disc, since when the plate is removed from the magnet it restrains its rotation, and when it approaches the magnet, it accelerates the rotation. The more torque the greater the current in the coil and the greater the voltage at the armature winding terminals. In this case, the torque is proportional to the power of the load being consumed, and the number of armature turns per unit time corresponds to the amount of electric energy consumed. The rotation of the anchor fixes a special counting mechanism connected to the armature axis by means of a worm gear and gears.

Figures on the scale of the counting mechanism appear in six windows arranged in one row. Above a number of windows indicate the unit of measurement of electrical energy, for example, kWh (kw h). The first five digits represent the integer number of hectovatt hours or kilowatt hours of electrical energy used by the consumer, the sixth digit is the fractional part of the decimal number.

If in an apartment or a country house all electrical appliances and light bulbs are turned off, the electric meter's disk should not rotate. Otherwise, there is a leakage of electrical energy due to poor insulation of the wires and requires the repair of the power grid.

Induction counters . To account for energy consumption in homes and apartments, single-phase induction meters of the CO type are usually used. The main parts of the induction meter are: a system of electromagnets, an aluminum disk, an axis with a worm gear and a gear, a counting mechanism, an axle bearing, an axle bearing and a brake magnet. One of the windings of the meter (current) is connected in series in series, and the other in parallel. The alternating current passing through the coils creates alternating magnetic fluxes that induce eddy currents in the aluminum disk. The interaction of magnetic fields and eddy currents drives an aluminum disk into rotation. Through the axis, the rotation is transferred to the counting mechanism.

When you rotate the first digit on the right by one turn, the second disk from it rotates by one division (one digit); when turning one revolution of the second disk, the third disk is rotated by one division, etc. Thus, the leftmost disk rotates one turn when the rightmost disk makes 100,000 turns. The speed of rotation of the counter disk is proportional to the active power, and the number of its revolutions is proportional to the energy consumption.

In order to find out how much electricity is consumed in a certain period of time, it is necessary to record the meter readings at the beginning and end of the accounting period (the digits are written down to the comma indicated on the scale). From the last meter readings taken, it is necessary to subtract previously recorded initial data. This is the amount of energy consumed in kWh. Then, knowing for the given location the price of 1 kWh of electricity, calculate the cost of the energy expended.

Electronic counters are a new generation of devices for recording active energy in single-phase and three-phase AC networks with a rated frequency of 50 Hz. Counters are equipped with liquid crystal displays, sequentially displaying in automatic mode: the energy consumed for each of the tariffs in kWh; current power in W; current time and date, as well as other parameters, depending on the design of the counter. In the absence of voltage in the network, the energy accounting data is stored in non-volatile memory, and the continuous running of the built-in timer is provided by a lithium power supply. Some models of electronic meters, for example CE-2727, can exchange information with external data processing devices via the RS-232 or RS-485 interface. There are models with built-in modems for data transmission over computer networks.

Electronic meters are multi-tariff. Switching tariffs is provided by programmable built-in real time clock. For example, the single-phase counter ЦЭ-2726 has an accuracy correction of the internal clock, the programming of the time limits of the tariff zones of the day, including weekends and holidays, which can be carried out using a special portable programming device. The meter is equipped with a standard telemetry output with a transmission ratio of 100 impdkWh) and can be used in automated metering systems for automated metering systems, a set of specialized metrologically certified technical and software tools that enable measurement and consumption of power generation.

Currently, electronic counters are in many cases by installation and connection dimensions identical to induction. Electronic counters are manufactured on a modern element base.

Circuit breakers

Near the electric meter on one panel is usually located distribution switchboard. Its mandatory element is safety devices that serve to protect various electrical appliances. Sometimes a switch is installed on the switchboard, which allows you to simultaneously cut off electricity throughout the house. To protect electrical appliances use fuses or circuit breakers. The protection devices open the electrical circuit when too much current appears in it. If there is no protection, the wiring of the wiring may be overheated, the insulation may catch fire and a fire may occur.

To protect the apartment network from a short circuit, as well as from possible overloads, fuses. In such a fuse, when the current passes more than the permissible value, a specially selected thin wire burns out, and the current supply stops automatically. In apartment wiring, the most common are fuse plugs. Such a safety device consists of a cartridge with a thread, reinforced in a porcelain box with a lid. The chuck is screwed into the socket with a thread. Inside the plug is a wire made of a low-melting metal. One end of the wire is soldered to the thread, and the other end to the metal contact stop. If the line is closed, the wire breaks and the current flows out.

In some electrical radio devices tube fuses . In special plate holders, glass tubes are reinforced, inside of which is a fusible safety wire. The ends of the wire are soldered to metal caps, which are fixed on the tube. On each fuse, the current limit value at which it fires is indicated.

When the fuse burns, it is necessary to inspect the entire apartment network and repair the damage. After eliminating the damage, replace the burnt fuse with a new one, designed for the same current. In the most extreme case, temporarily connect the plug contacts with a copper wire with a diameter of 0.2-0.25 mm.

The most convenient to use are automatic fuses , made in the form of a mirror. The main part of such a fuse is a bimetallic plate, designed to pass through it a current of a certain magnitude. If this value is exceeded, the plate heats up and opens the electric circuit. In order for electricity to appear in the apartment, it is necessary to wait a few minutes for the plate to cool and take its original form. After this, press the button on the end of the cartridge, which will restore the contact of the bimetallic plate and the movable contact.

Electric plugs are fuses, which were previously installed in power networks, fulfilling the role of protective devices in them. Often in the old apartments there are still fused Soviet-style fuses installed on the meter. They can be ceramic or plastic. Electric plugs are not very reliable, and when they fail, a jumper is often placed in the shield, which passes a current through itself, but does not save against short-circuit and unpleasant consequences associated with it. To avoid problems, it is enough to change the plugs to automatic switches. And in this article, we'll talk about how to replace plugs on machines with their own hands.

Features of choice of circuit breakers and supply cable

Sometimes people, having come to the conclusion about the need to replace old safety elements, install instead of them automatic plugs. This is due to the interchangeability of these devices and the identity of the installation, so the replacement procedure can be made as soon as possible. But we do not recommend this. Although the automatic safety device and the automatic stopper have the same operating principle, the reliability of the latter is rather small.

It is best to choose the automatic circuit breakers - they are much better and more durable. In addition, they are presented in stores in a wide range, and to choose a protective device for any network is not difficult.

Before we talk about how to replace old plugs with protective devices, we'll figure out how to choose the type of circuit breaker you need. To do this, it is necessary to calculate what the total power of electrical appliances included in the home network. A good example on the video:

Let's say that the apartment has:

• Refrigerator (400W).
• Hob (7000 W)
• Microwave oven (1800 W).
• TV (200 watts).
• Washing machine (700 W).
• Lighting devices (500 W).

Having combined the capacities of all these devices, we get 10600W. The standard voltage in household networks is 220V. Calculate the load current according to the formula I = P / U, 10600/220 = 48.18A. Based on the denominations of commercially available automatic devices, we can say that to protect such a network you need a circuit breaker at 50A.

But that is not all. Before you put instead of electrical plugs machines, you need to make sure that the wiring is able to withstand the load that will give home appliances. To facilitate the selection of the cable cross-section, we give the table.

Based on the data presented, it is easy to select the desired conductor cross-section. In our example, you need to choose a copper wire for 11 square meters. mm or aluminum by 12.1 square meters. mm.

Preparation for work

Another nuance of this procedure is the work with the counter. Sometimes plugs of protective electric can not be replaced with automatic machines, without breaking the registration device seals. If it was possible to do without it - the task is simplified, otherwise it is necessary to invite the representative of the power supply organization for sealing. Use unshaped meter prohibits legislation, for such violation is a considerable penalty.

Instead of stoppers, it is best to install an input two-pole circuit breaker. Sometimes the opinion is expressed that it is possible to do with two single-pole automata, but in reality this is unacceptable. In this case, the phase and neutral conductors will be protected by different devices, and if the AB set to neutral is triggered, the phase current will continue to flow into the network, which can lead to a fire. The bipolar device, having found out a malfunction, will disconnect both wires simultaneously, having disconnected the circuit.

Before starting to work, you need to locate the phase and neutral in the plugs with a multimeter or indicator screwdriver, having previously unscrewed them. Then turn off the supply to the electricity network - according to the safety regulations, installation work on the wiring to which the current is supplied is prohibited. This is not only inconvenient, but also creates a real threat to health and life.

An example of replacing plugs on machines on video:

Installation of circuit breakers

After the network is de-energized, the work is done in the following order:

• Dismantle the cartridges for electrical plugs.
• Replace the DIN rail. Beforehand, it must be cut so that it matches the size of the switch. To a tree or metal fastening is made by means of screws, and at work with a concrete wall it is necessary to use dowels.
• Connect the protective device. In this case, two current-carrying wires are connected from the top of the device (to avoid confusion, the terminal for connecting the neutral wire is marked with the letter N).
• From the bottom of the AB, you need to connect the cables, through which electricity is supplied to the home network, to the installed devices.

• After the conductors are connected, the safety switch is placed on the DIN rail.

This replacement is complete, but this scheme can be improved somewhat, making it safe for humans.

RCD Connection

In order to prevent people from being injured by accidental contact with the exposed section of the cable, as well as in case of breakdown to the housing, it is desirable to include a RCD in the general network. The basis of the protective shutdown device is the constant monitoring of the balance of currents passing through the device. In the event of a leakage of electricity to the body or to the ground, there is a violation of the balance. Fixing the imbalance, the device operates and de-energizes the circuit.

The rated current of the RCD is selected in the same way as for the input automaton. The protective shutdown device is connected to its output. It is recommended to check the operation of the RCD monthly - for this there is a "Test" button on the body of the device. From the output terminal of the device, the phase is connected to the input of the first AB, and then by means of jumpers goes to other switches. Neutral cables must be connected together by the bus bar, then fixed to the DIN rail.

If the connection is three-wire, the earthing conductors are similarly connected by the bus bar. However, it should be noted that they should not be in contact with zero.

Conclusion

From the material presented, you learned how to choose network protection switches and how to replace plugs on machines. Using our tips, you can do it yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists and saving money.