How to make a castle from colored cardboard. Creativity from paper. Model of a medieval castle. Drawing a diagram of the walls

Perhaps, out of the blue, you have some free time in the evening and want to spend it with your child. Maybe you just like to create unusual and original things with your own hands. In any case, we suggest you learn how to make a cardboard castle quickly and easily with your own hands.

How to build an original cardboard castle with your own hands: preparation for the process

To make an original and unique cardboard structure, you first need to prepare the raw materials. To construct the walls and towers of your home, you will need to find large sheets of thick cardboard. Old cardboard boxes are suitable for you as a building material for the gradual formation of walls. Such boxes can be collected after purchasing household appliances or new furniture.

Cut out windows and at least one door on the surface of your cardboard box. Now you need to find boxes from small TVs, or just small boxes from which you will build turrets, otherwise what kind of castle is this?

You can use chicken egg packaging to make a balcony for a tiny doll. This template can be easily mounted on a wall made of thick cardboard.

You can use colorful stationery paper to form tiles for the roofs of your castle turrets. You can do the interior design of the building entirely at your own discretion.

Making models and diagrams is a very important component of children's creativity. After all, by assembling a model, a child not only develops his imagination, spatial thinking, fine motor skills, but also a detailed, accurate understanding of the subject. We offer our readers detailed information and a master class on the process of making a castle model.

To work, you will need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• thick cardboard;
• PVA glue;
• ruler;
• a simple pencil;
• compass;
• sharp scissors;
• watercolor paints.

Now proceed to the process of making a layout for your structure. If you and your child decide to make a model of a royal castle, then first decide on the material for creativity. You can use wood panels or sheets of cardboard as building material.

If you choose wooden material, you will get a strong, durable royal castle - a real reason to be proud. The main disadvantage of a wooden castle is the difficulty in cutting parts from a sheet of wood. However, if you are good with a jigsaw, then this will not be particularly difficult for you.

Making your own castle out of cardboard seems very easy and simple. The process of cutting and gluing separate parts of the composition together looks very easy and simple to perform. However, difficulties may arise when any fragment of the structure is not completely glued. In this case, you need to add a small amount of PVA glue. As a result of such actions, a few drops of glue may fall on the front “wall” of the castle, causing the paint to appear stained on it, and so on. It is also quite difficult to maintain the impeccable appearance of a product made from such a fragile paper material.

Having decided on the desired material, begin making drawings of your design. Decide on the design of the castle that you want to implement. When using cardboard sheets as the starting material, you can make locks of any complexity. These can be buildings with rounded walls and turrets, carved windows or drawbridges. Cardboard is a very malleable material, so your imagination is not limited in this case.

At the moment when you already have a completed idea, draw a sketch of the future design. Then, directly on your template diagram, mark the approximate height, length and width of your castle. Based on the basic dimensions, proceed to construct a more detailed and detailed drawing. To construct the rounded parts of your structure, use a compass.

After this, transfer the design to the selected material. Paint all parts of the building in the chosen color. After complete drying, cut out all the parts along the contour and glue them together. Now your original and unique castle is ready.

Video on the topic of the article

We offer a selection of videos on the topic of the article. In the material presented you will find a visual demonstration of the process of making a cardboard castle. Enjoy watching and exploring!

Do you want to surprise your neighbors in the country? Do you dream of immersing yourself in the atmosphere of the Middle Ages? Then build a medieval castle on your site. You can, of course, purchase a prefabricated version at a children's toy store, but at a cost of several thousand rubles, it will look like a large plastic toy. A castle created with your own hands will look like a real one, and its size and appearance are limited only by your imagination.

Materials: stone or wood

For a building consisting of three walls with towers, you will need the following materials:

• Polystyrene foam – 5 sheets measuring 100 x 60 cm x 3 cm
• Insulation for pipes “foamolin”, diameter 110 mm – 4 pcs x 1 m
• Decorative plaster based on colored chips - 1-2 large jars
• Small stone or marble chips – 1 kg
• Acrylic paint to match the plaster – 1 can or jar
• Dark acrylic paint (black or brown) – 1 spray can or jar
• Plastic flower pots (for roofs) – 2 pcs.
• Glue for foam plastic (for example, “Moment Installation”) – 2 large tubes
• Long screws (for flagpoles) – 2 pcs.
• Polyurethane foam + gun – 2 cans

Tools

• Thin knife – 1 pc., screwdriver – 1 pc.
• Meter ruler, short ruler, felt-tip pen or marker.
• Narrow paint brushes – 4-5 pcs.
• Spatula – 1 pc.
• Large painting brushes for painting teeth – 2 pcs.
• Electrical tape – 1 pc.
• Modeling mass (black or brown) – 1 package

Stage 1. We draw a diagram of the future structure

First you need to determine the components of the future castle - the number of walls and towers. I offer schemes of three types of walls that can be combined in any quantity. I decided to start with three walls and six towers - three round and three square. You can start work from any wall.

Stage 2. How to make a wall model with your own hands

WALL-1. To make it, we need two sheets of polystyrene foam (preferably white) and two plastic flower pots.

This is what it looks like finished:

Drawing a diagram of the walls

On one sheet of foam plastic we draw a diagram of the wall with a felt-tip pen. She will be the carrier. The height of the towers is equal to the height of the sheet. The width of each tower is equal to the width of the flowerpot (roof) minus 1 cm. The distance between the teeth should be at least half the width of the tooth. The height of the walls and the middle part is approximately two-thirds of the height of the towers. Along the edges of the wall it is necessary to leave 5 cm of area free from teeth. You will then hide this part under the tower. Carefully cut everything out with a knife. In the middle part we cut out the gate. We do not cut out windows on the towers.

Drawing tower blanks

On the second sheet of foam plastic we draw blanks for the towers - 6 pieces, 3 for each tower. The size of the blanks is equal to the size of the towers. We cut out windows on four blanks. We don’t throw away the cut out pieces; they will come in handy later when painting. We glue the tower blanks on top of each other on the load-bearing wall in the place marked for the towers - we glue two blanks on the front side of the wall (we glue the blank with windows on top), we glue the second blank with windows on the end side of the load-bearing wall. Moment Montazh glue can be used as glue. If you intend to use a different glue, be sure to first check on scraps of foam to see if the glue is corroding the foam. The same goes for paints. The result is a wall with two towers, each of which is 4 sheets of foam thick. There are blind windows on the front and back walls of the towers. The windows need to be painted inside with dark paint. You also need to paint the inside of the gate arch and the gate itself. If the side walls of the towers turn out to have protrusions due to a discrepancy in the sizes of the blanks glued to each other, it is necessary to trim the towers on the sides, aligning the side walls.

We try on the “roof” on the towers. The flowerpot should fit freely onto the tower and extend onto it by 1-2 cm. Please note that after painting the dimensions of the tower will increase by 5-10 mm. Therefore, if the “roof” is difficult to put on, then the tower also needs to be trimmed.

After the dark paint has dried, you can make a “lattice” on the gate. To do this, using a ruler, a screwdriver or scissors, we make deep grooves in the form of a lattice on the painted gate so that unpainted light polystyrene foam can be seen through them.

Painting the castle walls

We start with the teeth. Painting the teeth with plaster is the most labor-intensive operation, so they must first be painted with paint to match the plaster, and the composition itself can only be applied to the front and back sides. You can generally not cover the teeth with plaster, but paint them with spray paint in a contrasting dark color, as we did on the third wall.

So, first we paint the teeth with paint to match the plaster. We use spray paint to paint each tooth on all sides. Let it dry. Then we cover the front surface of wall 1 with decorative plaster. During this time, it is better to cover the window openings with pieces of foam plastic so that the plaster does not get inside. The brush should be quite hard and clean. After painting, if possible, it should be washed off the plaster and placed in water. It is better not to use one brush more than twice due to adhering plaster. We are not painting the side walls of the towers yet. We will paint them last. We leave the wall blank-1 to dry in the sun for two days. After two days, we turn the product over onto its back side and also cover it with decorative plaster. While it dries, you can work on the other walls.

WALL-2. To make it we need two sheets of foam.

This is what it looks like when finished (the outermost tooth on each side then had to be cut off):

This wall is a variation of the first wall. Only here the tower is in the middle, and the gate is on the side. In addition, the battlements, as well as the tower, are cut from another sheet, and the windows are made through. The windows on the right side of the wall are filled with tabs painted dark. The windows on the left side are through. The height of the walls and tower is equal to the height of the sheet.

So, on the first sheet we mark the gates, windows and place for the tower. We cut out all the windows, incl. and on the tower, we paint the cut out pieces of windows a dark color. Then we paint the openings of the windows and gates, as well as the gates themselves, in a dark color. After applying the plaster, you will need to insert the dark pieces of windows on the right side of the wall back into the openings. We leave the remaining windows empty.

From the second sheet we cut out two blanks with windows. We make the windows at the same level as the windows located on the tower, on the load-bearing wall. Separately, we cut out two or four blanks for the teeth for the right and left parts of the main wall. We glue the tower blanks onto the front and back sides of the load-bearing wall, aligning the window openings. Then we also glue the teeth - on both sides of the load-bearing wall. I glued the teeth on only one side, using only two blanks, because... I originally planned to make an extension behind the second half of the wall. The tower was made of three layers. The thickness of the tower can be increased by adding an additional overhead wall glued to the face of the tower (as we did when making Wall-1).

Don’t forget to leave the edges on both sides 3-5 cm free from the teeth, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints measuring 3 x 1.5 cm along the edges on the back side of the wall.

We paint the teeth with paint to match the plaster. After the paint has dried, we cover the front side of the wall with decorative plaster (the teeth do not need to be covered with plaster). Then we sprinkle the part of the wall around the gate with fine stone chips and, patting, press the crumbs into the plaster. You can also sprinkle the other half of the surface with crumbs. After that, we leave the entire structure to dry for a couple of days, while we ourselves start making the third wall.

WALL-3. To make it, we need one whole sheet of foam plastic and pieces of sheet left after making the second one.

This is what it looks like when finished (the outer teeth also had to be cut off to hide the edge in the round tower):

This type of wall is quite simple to make, but looks quite impressive. Three retaining walls and teeth are glued to the main sheet. The teeth are painted with acrylic paint in a contrasting color. After painting with plaster, the wall is covered with a thin layer of stone chips.

The teeth on this wall have a more complex structure - the upper row is formed of wide teeth (3x3 cm), and the bottom row is made of narrow ones (4x1.5 cm).

We cut out teeth from strips 10 cm high. To do this, the strip needs to be divided into 3 parts - 3 cm high, 3 cm and 4 cm high. On the first strip 3 cm high, we cut teeth measuring 3 x 3 cm, the distance between them is 1.5 cm. On the bottom strip 4 cm high, we make a triangular cut at an angle along the length of the entire strip, leaving a strip 1 cm thick at the bottom. After that, on the bottom strip we cut out long teeth measuring 1.5 x 4 cm. The distance between the lower teeth is no more than 1.5 cm Then we paint the teeth with paint using a spray can and a thin brush, carefully painting between them. The teeth can be painted either to match the plaster or in a contrasting color.

Then, from the remaining foam plastic, we cut out three retaining walls in the form of triangles or trapezoids, the height of which should be at least a third and no more than half the height of the wall. We glue the supports and teeth to the main wall. Do not forget to leave 3-5 cm free from the teeth on both sides, which will then be hidden under the towers, and make rectangular cutouts for joints measuring 3 x 1.5 cm along the edges on the back side of the wall.

We lay the structure face up and cover everything except the teeth with decorative plaster:

Then sprinkle the entire surface with small stones, gently pressing them into the plaster.

While the third wall is drying, you can paint the back side of the first two with plaster, if their front sides have already dried by this time. Lastly, we paint the sides of the towers, placing the walls at the end. Let each side dry for two days.

Now you can start working on the corner round towers.

Stage 3. Round towers of the knight's fortress

To make round towers, you can use any thick pipes of the required diameter that can be processed with a knife, for example, “shells” for pipe insulation made from foam plastic. If they are not available, then you can use foam insulation for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, which is sold on any construction market.

To make three towers we will need four meter-long pieces of foam. From each of the four pieces we cut cylinders 8-10 cm long and cut teeth half the height of the workpiece. We cut the ring of teeth along the height and glue them on top of each of the three towers, wrapping them around the main part of the tower. We cut off the missing pieces with teeth from the fourth workpiece. While the glue dries, secure the seams with electrical tape for a better fit.

Next, on each tower we make longitudinal cuts along the length, equal in height to the height of the walls (60 cm) and in width - slightly more than twice the thickness of the walls. The width of the cuts can be increased after painting, when you insert walls into them.

For variety, one or more towers can be decorated with an additional cylinder with tall narrow windows. The overlay is made from the remaining fourth piece of foam.

While the glue dries, we paint the windows on the tower with black paint, and only after that, in three or four steps, we cover the elements with plaster, turning them 90-120 degrees. Carefully paint the teeth.

While the towers are drying, you can start making small parts for them and walls, such as roofs, flags, coats of arms, cornices, and small windows. The number of details depends only on your imagination and patience. You just need to keep the proportions.

Metal buttons and stripes can be used as a coat of arms. Flags can be made from colored self-adhesive paper, but it is better to use self-adhesive film. We glue the flag onto a long screw. The screws are screwed into plastic flower pots. We paint the pots red, painting some details with black paint. The coat of arms is attached above the gate using the same plaster or glue.

Masonry elements can be added to rectangular towers and walls. To do this, you can use black modeling compound, which is sold in children's stores and stationery departments. You can also use plasticine, but the advantage of the modeling mass is that, unlike plasticine, it hardens in air.

We made the roof for the middle tower from half a black paving slab.

By the way, after the plaster on the round towers had dried, and the towers stood in the rain for several days, the plaster began to move away from the foam near the edges of the cut, like an orange peel, and we had to additionally glue this “peel” with Moment Montazh glue. It helped.

After drying, you can begin the most important stage - assembling the castle.

Stage 4. Assembling a medieval castle

Despite the fact that the design of the castle allows it to be moved to any place, it is still better to assemble the building on the site where it will stand.

The site for the castle must be prepared in advance. It should be level and, preferably, without a slope. We were making a castle to decorate a pond, so our site had a slight slope towards the pond, which added additional difficulties for us when installing it. In order for the castle to stand level, it was necessary to cut the walls from below at an angle; fortunately, foam plastic, even covered with massive plaster, is easy to cut.

Having installed and connected the walls to each other, it is necessary to tighten the entire structure around the perimeter with a rope or cable, and then “glue” the walls at the joints with polyurethane foam. After the foam on the joints has dried, remove the rope and begin installing the round towers. To do this, we put the towers on top of the corners of the castle, inserting the walls into the longitudinal cuts made in the towers. If the cut is small, we enlarge it to the required size so that the turrets fit snugly against the walls from the outside. The missing part of the towers on the inside of the castle can then be formed using polyurethane foam. We press the edges of the cuts tightly against the walls of the castle, supporting each tower with stops if necessary, and fill the towers from the inside with polyurethane foam, making small protruding slides on top. In addition, you can use polyurethane foam to form the missing parts of the turrets on the inside of the building. To do this, we form a protrusion of the desired shape from foam at the junction of the walls, and after the foam hardens, we cut off the excess with a knife and plaster it. We limited ourselves to covering the internal joints of the walls with plaster.

After the foam has dried, we carefully cut off the slides protruding above the towers with a knife so that a flat platform is formed on top, which we also cover with plaster.

Then we remove all the remaining foam in the places where the towers adjoin the walls and paint over them with plaster. After this, the castle must be covered and allowed to dry for two to three days until the plaster is completely dry.

Now you can move on to the last stage - backlighting.

The final stage. Building lighting

Undoubtedly, a castle built with your own hands will decorate your site at any time of the day. But it will look most impressive in the evening if you add special lighting.

For illumination, you can use solar-powered diffused light lamps that need to be placed inside the castle. Then, through the through windows and open gates of the castle, located on the second wall, a weak light will flow at night, enlivening the castle and giving it mystery. And directional solar lamps, built into the “stones” and installed outside, will illuminate the walls from all sides.

But to illuminate the front wall, it is better to use a stationary directional light fixture, into which a light bulb is screwed in and changes color. And then the effect will be extraordinary.

And in conclusion, here are some more practical tips.

I have already written that if you treat unnecessary cardboard packaging as an unusual construction set, you can make a lot of interesting things. Today I propose to make a castle with turrets from toothpaste boxes. Children will be happy to take part in its construction.

Materials and tools for the “Paper Castle” master class

four toothpaste boxes, white album sheets, orange and blue cardboard, double-sided tape, regular tape, a ruler, scissors, a simple pencil.

Instructions:

1. Take four identical toothpaste boxes. Measure the length of the box and the width of each side. The length of the box turned out to be 19 cm, and the width of the sides was 3.5 and 4.5 cm.

2. Now let's solve a simple example of addition. Let's add up the width of all the edges at one end of the box and add another centimeter. I got 3.5 + 4.5 +3.5+ 4.5 + 1 = 17 cm.

Now you need to cut out four rectangles measuring 17 x 19 cm from white album sheets (19 cm is the height of the box).

3. Take one box and cover it with one rectangle. The fastest way to do this is with double-sided tape, but you can also glue it with PVA glue. I additionally glued the edges of the rectangle at the junction with a strip of ordinary narrow tape - for reliability.

4. We will paste the remaining boxes in the same way.

The bases for the turrets are ready.

5. Cut out two circles with a diameter of 16 cm from orange cardboard. Cut each circle in half. From these semicircles we will make roofs for the turrets.

6. Roll each semicircle into a cone and glue it together using strips of tape. Additionally, you can secure the edges with a stapler.

7. Glue small pieces of tape to the corners of the box. It is better to take foam double-sided tape - it is stronger.

8. Remove the protective layer from the tape and glue the roof-cone on top.

9. We will also glue the roofs to the rest of the boxes.

10. Cut out a rectangle measuring 19 x 11 cm from album sheets. We will use it to make a wall for our castle. Mark and cut out the top side of this rectangle as shown in the photo. We will get a wall with battlements. In the same way we will cut out three more walls.

11. Cut out a gate 7 cm wide and 9 cm high from orange cardboard.

12. Cut the gate in half.

13. Place the gate on one wall of the castle and outline it with a simple pencil.

14. Cut the wall along the pencil line so that the gate can open.

15. Glue pieces of orange cardboard to the gate.

16. Glue the wall with the gate to the two turrets using double-sided tape or PVA glue.